1990yota-pickup

hey you guy's... you need to try this stuff out for rust bolts and exhaust manifold bolts
http://www.lpslabs.com/product_pg/lu...s_pg/KB88.html

its called KB88

92 TOY

thanks.....us Northeast guys need gallons of that stuff

1990yota-pickup

i was a buddies house the other day and we sprayed that on the header exhuast mainfold bolts they looked like everyone of them would of snapped off in the head.. but we sprayed on some kb88 and waited a hour drinking a fe beers and you could basicly unscfew them by hand.. it was amazing...

PismoJoe

Hey chef, hope the progress is going well! I wish I could chime in on how the 268C looks on the california smog report, but its still in a box! Anyways, hope you still have some drive left to get er done!

Rob2thec

If you all don't know by now Chef is the man. If it was not for Chef I would be back to square one with my build or worse. I wont go into detail with what was wrong but just assume right about everything but the internals was a joke and the master Chef swooped in like a super hero to save the day! Dude you RULE!!!

Chef thank you man! your help and patients has SAVED me and my never ending build.

you ARE THE MAN!!!

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Buddy, thanks alot! Yeah, I read up and figured it out and sorry I never got back.... we were at his rig all day the past few days, ...let's just say "Undoing" lots of really bad decisions(well, maybe a better use of words would be 'ahhhh, whatever'.... and that's NOT Rob2Techs fault... It's a long story and better left without any backbiting or further expounding.... but trust me, it's a REALLY good thing we tore it back down to the long block). The other bolt that I've found sealant on in the pics and even ones we yanked at the yard(went there and got a full set and popped them in a template I made and brought over lol... yeah, I know, I'm anal about this stuff, but it can't hurt on these specific things, ya know?). The long bolt that goes through the A/C bracket-to-head location(near the left-top) seemed to have sealant on it on 2 rigs now. Can't seem to find that ANYWHERE, being used, other than the top Oil Pump-through-the-cover- bolt... And WE GOT that, .....done. Just wanna be sure before I torque it all back to specs(9# on 8mm and 29# on 10mm-width-thread-bolts). I ordered a full set for him and they're all fine except for that A/C bracket bolt that goes through the cover(3.5" long or so)... and I'm guessing he just put it in wrong at Toyota Computer and ordered the one "w/out air"... Because I think he thought it was the 'air pump' version which Rob doesn't have. So I need one that's around an inch longer, I've read.... and I'll get it, today... but does it have sealant on it?(actually... it, and 2 other bolts weren't even there when it was attempting to be turned over.... Before we started tearing it all down again). Also, the clutch is new, not sure when it went in(rob will clarify), but ...I've bled the slave-master system, it's tight, and we're IN GEAR,....but NO grabbing... I wanted to yank the crank bolt(mangled, want a new one)...and that's done now, but we can't figure out why it's not engaging. I said a couple things, but settled on either wrong model or pressure plate not tight.... BTW, the disc would be grinding on the flywheel if it was backward, right?... Anyway, his buddies that installed it are going to check that out,...just thought I'd throw it out there.??? THANKS, JERRY, you-da-man!

Not quite yet, lol.... sure I'll have more ?'s! lol.... Thanks Matthew!

Probably today or Monday.

THANKS! I will, and have meant to, grab some, today!

Hahaha

GOOD TO KNOW! Just sold me on trying to replace them on Rob's. ... They re-used the factory studs, .. Me no likey, so I think we'll CAREFULLY yoink them and pop in new ones! Plus, they re-used the lock-nuts... BIG no no on a header, especially. So, trying to find those and seems much harder now adays. They can order them, and BTW...I know the studs are M10x1.25....BUT BYYYYYY? "41"? "45"? I'll just bring one of mine that I pulled and we'll TRY to match em up... just hard, cuz the drawers at Kragen, etc., don't have them any more... FOUND ONE, and it's an M10x1.25x41...." MUST BE SURE, SPOCK, NOT AAAAAA COMPROMISING..... TYPE OF GUY!" HAHAHAH.

I'm going 261 by advice of both Ted AND Tod. This is more of 1400-4800 Rpm range with longer duration. Where as, the 268 is actually, from what they told me, "for guys who have it up in RPM grinding through stuff off road,(2,000-5200 RPM, or something like that) ...will pass smog, but not as easily as the 261 and probably a lil harder to time.... And MIGHT lose a lil top end speed..but VERY torquie!"

Hahaha... Well, shucks! lol. Actually, HONESTLY, Rob, it's my pleasure! I'm learning, still, but I've got a good memory, so it's pretty fresh and I figured....... Wouldn't I want this help?.... which I HAVE RECEIVED! "Ask and you shall receive!" ... However you look at it, I think it's 'THE RIGHT THING TO DO!' and I saw that thing, that first day and said, "HOLY CRAP... he's not gonna like it, but maybe I should just say, 'Let's redo some(lots, lol) of this, eh?' " hahaha. Well, you've got a great attitude, Rob, and honestly, I'm JUST AS rewarded by seeing you learning stuff and being more sure of this bucket that's gonna take you all over for the next 1/4 MILLION MILES before breaking down again(God willing ) hahaa. Certainly more 'LIKELY' if we do it right, eh? Thanks for trusting me and not getting in the way....while still saying, "Hey, wait a minute".. THAT'S GOOD! hahahha.

Been a pleasure, Rob, and look forward to getting it going! ....and as for the gremlins?....... >>> THEY MUST DIE! LOL.

*************************************************


PS> A helicoil has to be done on possibly all 3 mounting bolts to head through Steering Pump housing/bracket. They must have gone in stripped to begin with. MAYBE just one, that would be good. It's a brand new head from Ted with 261~! Say a prayer for Danny, the 'tapper', lol. Anyway, stuff happens, and it will be fine.... Tod actually told me the other day, "Yeah, guys 'install' err all the time, and we take em back, drop in a coil, DONE, just like new!" So, yeah, there's lots of room, hopefully it wont need to be pulled, eh.......nother prayer, maybe, please? hahah.

c0ugar69

I have the 261 cam in mine, it seems to work very well in my rig. You sure are doin alot of work on that rig, Its gona run great, cant wait to see the results.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Cougar, .... good to hear! lol... I'm actually helping complete(actually tear down and re-do bolting up of pretty much everything on it... been LOTS of fun!) a motor for a new friend who found me on Yotatech. .... He's got the 261 and Engbldr head, ...should be a lil beast of a sewing machine. I'll get to the head on mine, later on, but, for now, ....the CAM will have to do for me. Everything else is new, ya know? Can't really justify dumping 600 more just for a few ponies....can't afford it at the moment. lol.

YEP, I'm certainly the "mystery gremlin" winner for the month on here, eh? lol. Oh well, I've learned SO MUCH, ...it's all been worth it. Now I'm actually useful to someone who was in a spot... that's the 'REWARD' for me, if ya know what I mean!

Take care, Cougar ..... Wheel safely! lol

PS> Did that cam help you out on the hills? Or do you have a gearing mod?

1990yota-pickup

ya, there always room for learning ...

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Guys? .............

Could ANYONE who is willing stop by this thread(permalink below) and lend their thoughts on reasons for a brand new motor/head, Cranking-with-Fuel/Spark but WONT start...... I have about 10 things to check, but just for the heck of it...could you entertain me? .........

PS> This is the permalink for where this truck came into the picture.... So, ignore the 95 4Runner for now, .... Just trying to focus on his 87.....THANKS A LOT!

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199.../#post51307130

de6w6it

wow man, glad you got this sorted out. can't believe the condition of the cam, what a tough thing to finally figure out. my hat is most definitely off to you for sticking to it and not being satisfied with it just running good enough. all the best with the truck/motor from here on in.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

This is the post I just made in Rob2Techs Thread, after being there maybe 40 hours or so, now(most of it 're-doing' some messed up things and now a full day trying to get it started..........

Please guys, any help???????
>
>
>
**************************************
Thread permalink to where he got this truck...
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51544580
..... if you could look a couple or few posts before that just to check it out(what he's been through), I'd/HE'D-Surely/ be grateful!

"UPDATE:

I'm not trying to speak for Robert, but considering how understandably flustered he is right now, ...I thought I'd save him the trouble of having to type out a message, explaining all the things that are probably causing blood to shoot from his eyeballs at the moment.

Long story short; IT WONT START!

We've completely torn it down to the long block, re-installed everything, the right way, with all the proper bolts, etc. He now has a knock sensor.(Just thought of something that MIGHT cause some issues,...I'll elaborate later).

Today;

1. Checked the AFM-- Measured within specs on every test.

2. NO Codes, other than a recent "3". I'll be reading up on that tonight, but (IGNITION) is what it's related to(Ignitor, etc.)

3. Checked the EFI Fuse(it's fine)

4. Checked the ECU for being plugged in(it is)

5. Pulled the valve cover, made sure it was on TDC on compression stroke with corresponding valves checking out for 'loose or tight' and set Dizzy at #1 with notch in dizzy gear just counterclockwise of the Cam/Dizzy drive gear.

6. Fuel Pump is turning on with the slightest movement of the AFM measuring plate and there is TONS of fuel at the CSI.

7. Checked CSI for voltage with key turning over(Measures 5-7V and then falls off after a few cranks to 0V.

8. Checked the Injector Resistor on the passenger firewall(finned thing), and it read 3.0-3.1ohms... The specs say (2-3ohms, and if out of specs at all, "IT MUST BE REPLACED") I'm going to check mine in the morning, cuz mine is running strong(other than my obvious cam issues), ...but can anyone tell me off the top of their head if bouncing from 3.0-3.1(being 1/10th of an ohm over at times) could cause the injectors not to fire?

9. With starter fluid being tapped at the AFM intake, it's seeming to want to start, even a few revolutions, ....then caput! I would assume this means that WE ARE getting spark and without major backfire/misfiring, I would assume that would lean toward "fuel or timing related", ...correct?

10. The AFM checked out, resistance wise, as I said, ... HOWEVER; When trying to turn it over, I kept hearing this 'CLICK...CLICK', pretty loud, over and over, repetitiously. It seemed to happen every other stroke of the starter. When removing the cone filter, I noticed that the flap was making the noise. It's slapping on the fully closed stop-plate. I don't remember mine EVER doing that, even when it wouldn't start.... Is this just due to compression causing a vacuum against the measuring plate, causing it to open and slap close, rapidly?(every second or so it slaps).

11. Tried to swap my KNOWN good ECU out with his(both are 87 SR5's)..NO GO.

12. Pulled the Valve cover(as mentioned) and when I got to TDC on the compression stroke, the CAM notch did not seem to be at 12o'clock on the dot. The valves were all measuring a good lash.....right where they were supposed to be. However, the Cam Timing Gear Notch and CAM notch both seemed to be BARELY clockwise too far(with the shiny link at 11:59 and the Cam Notch at 12:01)--->>> Make sense? I'm trying to understand how that's even possible..... If the TDC mark is on 0 and Bright link is at nearly 12, I think we're ok... It just 'looked' a lil, TEEEEENY bit over(not a full tooth, is what I mean). Can the CAM be installed slightly cockeyed(VERY slightly)??? I'm going to load my pics and get them up here... It's driving me nuts, and I DOUBT that's his issue... but, then again, if it's a tooth off, it could cause some issues.

Another QUESTION(please, guys, this yotatech'brudda REALLY needs to get this running so he can break in the cam... it's his DD!!);

A. With the Injector connector unplugged at #3 injector, it doesn't read ANY voltage, even with the engine cranking(let alone with the key to 'STA' position. I'm going to read through my FSM pages on the EFI system... but ...AS I REMEMBER from checking that #2 injector ON MY TRUCK with a NOID LIGHT..., it didn't light up until the motor fired up(Or was it "wouldn't light up the noid until it was 'turning over'"???). Once the engine fired, on my truck, The Noid was on, flashing rapidly with the pulse.

Hopefully, when his friend pulls the plenum off tonight and pulls the fuel rail, back, he will see whether the injectors are firing or not...

I was going to check at the ECU, tomorrow, if he wants me to be there, and see if I get the numbers I want by doing the 'troubleshooting readings' from the No.10 and No.20 to E2 at the ECU connectors.

ANY OTHER GUIDANCE, GUYS???????? IT WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED, PLEASE BELIEVE ME!

Thanks, in advance,

Mark

PS> Sorry Robert... I'm not totally stumped, yet, ..... I have a couple ideas if he does get fuel. However, if he doesn't... I'm hoping to find A DEFINITE yes or no answer as to whether the 'injector resistor' can be 1/10th of an ohm out of specs. I'll check mine asap... Had to come home and prepare their dinner( hahaha) They said they had it covered, but then, "ummmmmm, we're pretty hungry, sorry, we didn't end up going out with friends", and HEY, that's what I'm here for, eh? lol.. Just that I'm pretty wiped out. I WILL check it though, promise.(maybe remind me in the morning? Have to clean up the kitchen now."

yotarob2005

IDK Mark, could still be either fuel or ignition. I've read his thread in full & didn't see anything jump out at me. Your post was pretty informative but I need to digest it a little. If he is out of spec at all on the injector resistor or if the AFM is making some unusual noise then both should be suspect.

Rob2thec

Mark your the man, I thank everyone in advance for there help. I am at my wits end, I promise I will not give up! But it gets rough when you thought 2 weeks ago it should be good to go and then have to start, basically over.

I am by far no way of a "guru" I would be more like the freshman in high school maybe through his first semester... LOL

But I honestly have no clue what it could be. Gosh I hope it is simple.

my thoughts:

Fuel
- Injectors
- or something to do with that (fuel)

Code
- coil?
- resistor?

Question for anyone that may know. Does the ignition coil or igniter have anything to do with the injectors possibly not working correctly? That is the code we are getting and it also seems like it does not get fuel. The CS injector gets the fuel there, it stutters and wants to start but after that it just seems to fall of and not get fuel??

-R

1990yota-pickup

i just dont get it.. it must be something simple.. it usually is in these types of conditions..

i would probely unbolt the entire fuel rail and leave it hooked and monitor to se if the injector are spraying like they should.. ya there will be gasoline spraying so keep a fire ext. handy.. if you no what i mean...

92 TOY

sorry Chef...no clue.
my only contribution would be to check that the grounds are all connected.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Brudda, THANKS, ... I appreciate ANY and ALLLLLLLL input at this point.... and believe it or not, ..."not sure right now" IS REALLY actually helpful... gives confirmation that I'm not just BLINDLY missing something obvious and I'm sure helps Robert to just see people stopping in. Far as the timing, yeah, it is MOST LIKELY(99%) negligible.... Just saying, ....I'd never seen one be "off a lil but NOT ENOUGH to be '"""OFF"""' " if you know what I mean? I'm guessing it's the new, more aggressive cam that is causing that excess pull on the chain over the lobes...but it's just a guess. Just a foot note... *WHEN I dropped it back to 8* BTDC.... it looked EXACTLY like mine... DEAD ON... Ask Robert, he was there, I CAN PROVE IT! hahaha. Jk, seriously though... it did. Far as the 'RESISTOR'..... mine checks out at 3.1-3.2 all day long, .....mine runs strong, other than the hiccup which is pretty much proven to be mechanical by propane tests and 300hours of diagnosis! haha, ok, maybe 200. Far as the AIR FLOW METER?????? HMMMMMM, as I said, I KNOW that's not 'normal' as far as what I've seen on DOZENS of these, now. I'm bringing a spare, and we're going to pull the Air Tube BEFORE the AFM(between Throttle Body and AFM) and leave the AFM plugged in....then turn it over. I HAVE TO KNOW if it's the compression/suction of the mechanical creating that flapping on the door...that test will tell for SURE!(THANKS, ANDY!)

Hey 90YP, ...thanks for stopping in, seriously. Yeah, that was supposed to happen last night.... LONG STORY, and really not my place to tell it. SOOOOOO, i'll leave that to Robert and just say.... I guess I'll be doing that, today, and yet, I might just try with coil unplugged to pull a plug, first(with CSI connector unplugged to eliminate it from the process)... Plug Should be saturated in gas, especially with no spark. I'll definitely try that first, ... I mean, if it's not GAS-STANKIFIED, lol.. well, then it's my next step... then it's definitely time to pull the rail.
AFTER THAT(if no fuel firing), I would be checking the Injector connector with Noid, then checking No.10 and No. 20 jumped to E2 at the ECU for voltage with key in STA position.


Anyone else? I think I've been heading in the right direction, and checking, first, the most CRUCIAL things that could go really wrong, or have us chasing tail indefinitely.... like the Cam Gear/Timing Marks, etc. Just don't want this pretty new performance head damaged, ya know? Really, guys.... I WANT TO BECOME A 'GREMLIN SERIAL KILLER!', HAHAHa....but then, they're actually quite rewarding to beat, so it's like missing a trial that's passed in some ways(NOT ENOUGH TO REAAAAAAAALLY MISS IT THOUGH! hahaha. Eh Robert?)

Thanks again, Guys,

Mark

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey there... Yeah, he had NO ground from rear of head to rear firewall....... But, I replaced that before we fired it over at all. I also made sure the ground to the plenum stud was there, cleaned up, Dielectric grease on most of the connectors, ...etc. I DO NOT like the main ground from Negative to firewall, which is grounded to the A/C Compressor Bracket(which does bolt right through the block...but still, it should be right on the block. The other side of that ground going to the fenderwell, .... it's frayed and a bit funky... I'm going to maybe replace it, today. I think he has a new ground set up on a bench somewhere I saw in there. CAN'T HURT, eh? HOPEFULLY, the Battery is being charged right now. ALL NIGHT< lol... Haven't spoken to Robert yet... I'll find out when we speak this morning.

HighLux

Chef. You sound like a toyota tech now. You have the persistance and perserverance of a saint. You are yotatech.

92 TOY

Chef.....you better PERMA-SIG that right there ( i made a word....heehehe).