87 4Runner 22RE troubleshooting help needed
08-26-2010, 09:58 PM
#682
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i just burned through three pages of posts and thought i caught something i hadn't realized before but just to make sure, did you say that the cam was in the engine before the rebuild? i thought you said you had the cam made for the rebuild but it would make sense if it was the original cam because you said it did the same thing before the rebuild.
i am in the middle of tearing my 89 down after only about 10,000 on my rebuild because of what i thought was a blown head gasket but after teardown i don't see anything obvious with the headgasket. its a long story but my final feelings on the whole deal are that i wasn't happy with the outcome of the machine shop's job on my head and to eliminate any problems and to avoid time money and hassle of the whole deal i am just going to buy an engnbldr head, bolt it on and go.
if it is the cam you had before the teardown just get a new cam from ted and slap it on without messing with pulling the head. otherwise the only option i see is to get the head and cam.
another option would be that since the cam from ted is only 100 bucks try that and if it doesn't fix it, get the head and throw the cam in the new head.
i don't know man, that's a lot of time and money, but like you said, you can probably tear it down and put it together in your sleep now.
i am in the middle of tearing my 89 down after only about 10,000 on my rebuild because of what i thought was a blown head gasket but after teardown i don't see anything obvious with the headgasket. its a long story but my final feelings on the whole deal are that i wasn't happy with the outcome of the machine shop's job on my head and to eliminate any problems and to avoid time money and hassle of the whole deal i am just going to buy an engnbldr head, bolt it on and go.
if it is the cam you had before the teardown just get a new cam from ted and slap it on without messing with pulling the head. otherwise the only option i see is to get the head and cam.
another option would be that since the cam from ted is only 100 bucks try that and if it doesn't fix it, get the head and throw the cam in the new head.
i don't know man, that's a lot of time and money, but like you said, you can probably tear it down and put it together in your sleep now.
08-26-2010, 10:57 PM
#683
Registered User
Here's the thing about mechanics, professional and backyard/driveway alike. Everyone is going to give you an opinion based on knowledge and experience. The opinion is given under the circumstance that a visual inspection or detailed troubleshooting complete with necessary equipment has not been done or can't be done without a) actually having access to your vehicle, or b) it's not possible to do, in some cases, without pulling it apart. In Todd's case, he can't be there to look at your vehicle, and you aren't there for him to do so. The other mechanics have looked at the vehicle extensively, but haven't actually gone so far as to pull it apart and inspect. The best opinions are the ones that are based on the most experience and the clearest knowledge. Any wise mechanice will tell you their opinion could be wrong. And, take note that all mechanics/machinists did say "either/or". So, while it may be difficult to decide who's correct from where you're standing, you don't have much choice but to realize the limitations everyone's working with, do what you can, and learn more.......which I certainly know you're doing your very best at.
What Todd is trying to say is that when the cam is ground, each lobe is ground the same according to the setting on the machine. Unless the machinist screwed up somehow on one or more of the lobes during the grinding process, they should all turn out the same regardless of the cam's condition before grinding. IOW's, say the cam lobes were not all even before. Well, after the grinding, it doesn't matter. The machine will take the necessary amount of metal from each lobe to get them all to the specification. But, let's say atleast one of the lobes was done incorrectly.....that he messed up somehow. That irregularity in the lobe will remain the same whether the motor is hot or cold, moving fast or moving slow while with the valves that's not the case. They do respond or behave differently according to hot/cold and fast/slow. Notice how your mis is not always there......more noticeable at most times, but sometimes not. As well, if all lobes were done incorrectly, your motor would run a lot worse than it is as all the valves will be adversely affected.
Another thing...... when you set the valve lash, you're setting the limit on which the valve is able to travel, but they travel up and down according to the position of the cam lobe. If all valves are adjusted the same, and if the cam lobes are ground the same (even if done incorrectly), they should all travel the same amount. Provided all of the valves are seating correctly, you should get the same compression ratio on all cylinders........provided all four pistons are sealing correctly. You're compression readings on three of the cylinders are within spec, but they seem a bit low, to me, being that the engine has been completely rebuilt and the FSM spec given is for a new engine. The fourth cylinder is a bit too high. The valve is most likely too tight, but not due to your adjustment. As well, the imbalance between all four is not too far off, but too much for a fresh motor and it would be enough to cause a miss. Afterall, a misfire is an irregularity in combustion....combustion being created by fuel, spark, and air. If you have an irregularity in the ratio of those three components across any of the four cylinders, you will get a miss.
In my "unqualified" opinion, and given the specifics of the symptom, I'd be more inclined to agree with Todd's opinion as it's more likely there's an irregularity in the valves.....either due to the valve bore or the valve itself. In either case, the head will need to be removed and serviced.
One of Todd's suggestions was to pull the plug from each cylinder. This will tell you which cylinder the miss is on due to the difference in behavior. Compare the difference against your compression readings and I'm sure you'll find a direct correlation.
As far as the cam setting the vacuum.....well.....doesn't matter if the cam was perfect, if the valves aren't opening or shutting perfectly, your vacuum reading will still jump around. Vacuum is created by the drawing action of the pistons in the cylinders, but the amount of air that is able to be drawn in or even exist is determined by the valves cooperating. They are what allows any air to enter or leave the cylinders.
BTW, I could be wrong, so correct me if I am, but Todd does machining while the other fellows are mechanics, no? So, if you can see from the machinists point of view as to what's more likely to go wrong in the process of building a head, you might be able to make a little more sense of this and more easily decide where to go from here.
Anyway, that's what I think. But, I could be wrong.
ps. I realize intake and exhaust valves are set differently, but I'm only trying to illustrate a point.
What Todd is trying to say is that when the cam is ground, each lobe is ground the same according to the setting on the machine. Unless the machinist screwed up somehow on one or more of the lobes during the grinding process, they should all turn out the same regardless of the cam's condition before grinding. IOW's, say the cam lobes were not all even before. Well, after the grinding, it doesn't matter. The machine will take the necessary amount of metal from each lobe to get them all to the specification. But, let's say atleast one of the lobes was done incorrectly.....that he messed up somehow. That irregularity in the lobe will remain the same whether the motor is hot or cold, moving fast or moving slow while with the valves that's not the case. They do respond or behave differently according to hot/cold and fast/slow. Notice how your mis is not always there......more noticeable at most times, but sometimes not. As well, if all lobes were done incorrectly, your motor would run a lot worse than it is as all the valves will be adversely affected.
Another thing...... when you set the valve lash, you're setting the limit on which the valve is able to travel, but they travel up and down according to the position of the cam lobe. If all valves are adjusted the same, and if the cam lobes are ground the same (even if done incorrectly), they should all travel the same amount. Provided all of the valves are seating correctly, you should get the same compression ratio on all cylinders........provided all four pistons are sealing correctly. You're compression readings on three of the cylinders are within spec, but they seem a bit low, to me, being that the engine has been completely rebuilt and the FSM spec given is for a new engine. The fourth cylinder is a bit too high. The valve is most likely too tight, but not due to your adjustment. As well, the imbalance between all four is not too far off, but too much for a fresh motor and it would be enough to cause a miss. Afterall, a misfire is an irregularity in combustion....combustion being created by fuel, spark, and air. If you have an irregularity in the ratio of those three components across any of the four cylinders, you will get a miss.
In my "unqualified" opinion, and given the specifics of the symptom, I'd be more inclined to agree with Todd's opinion as it's more likely there's an irregularity in the valves.....either due to the valve bore or the valve itself. In either case, the head will need to be removed and serviced.
One of Todd's suggestions was to pull the plug from each cylinder. This will tell you which cylinder the miss is on due to the difference in behavior. Compare the difference against your compression readings and I'm sure you'll find a direct correlation.
As far as the cam setting the vacuum.....well.....doesn't matter if the cam was perfect, if the valves aren't opening or shutting perfectly, your vacuum reading will still jump around. Vacuum is created by the drawing action of the pistons in the cylinders, but the amount of air that is able to be drawn in or even exist is determined by the valves cooperating. They are what allows any air to enter or leave the cylinders.
BTW, I could be wrong, so correct me if I am, but Todd does machining while the other fellows are mechanics, no? So, if you can see from the machinists point of view as to what's more likely to go wrong in the process of building a head, you might be able to make a little more sense of this and more easily decide where to go from here.
Anyway, that's what I think. But, I could be wrong.
ps. I realize intake and exhaust valves are set differently, but I'm only trying to illustrate a point.
Last edited by thook; 08-26-2010 at 11:12 PM.
08-27-2010, 08:28 AM
#684
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ya, your plugs look great, thats the way the should be looking..
refer to your page on plugs in your hanyes manual..
i would say your valve seating isnt as good as #4 but i pull your valve cover and start looking for any signs of culprits..
oh by the way... did you ever checkout your knock sensor.. (do you have one).. is it hooked up?
refer to your page on plugs in your hanyes manual..
i would say your valve seating isnt as good as #4 but i pull your valve cover and start looking for any signs of culprits..
oh by the way... did you ever checkout your knock sensor.. (do you have one).. is it hooked up?
08-27-2010, 09:02 AM
#685
Contributing Member
The book says to use the highest compression reading (not average) and they should be with in 12 - 14 lbs; so 162# vs 173# is OK = dry compression looks good. "If a cylinder is unusually low, pour a tablespoon of clean engine oil into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and repeat the the compression test. If the compression comes up after adding the oil it appears that the cylinders piston rings or bore are damaged or worn. If the pressure remains low the valves may be blown near the cylinder. If the compression in any two adjacent cylinders is low and if the oil does not help the compression, there is leakage past the head gasket." Dry compression is good and the wet compression tells me that the cylinders are dry from lack of lubrication probably caused by the engine not being warm or because the cylinders were wiped clean by the dry compression test or both. Looks like the valves and cylinders are OK.
08-27-2010, 09:14 AM
#688
Contributing Member
"One of Todd's suggestions was to pull the plug from each cylinder. This will tell you which cylinder the miss is on due to the difference in behavior. Compare the difference against your compression readings and I'm sure you'll find a direct correlation."
x3
x3
08-27-2010, 11:08 AM
#690
Hey Matt(BUCK87), hows it going, man?
Right on, I really appreciate the response. GRATEFUL!
Well, I spoke to Tod again.... He said that...." the compression sounds good, and with well under 1000 miles on her, ...it's not unusual to see that difference.. What's happening is that the front 3 haven't fully seated yet, but the #4 has. #3 is on it's way and #2 and #1 are taking a lil longer. Perfectly normal. Around another 500-600 miles and YOU WILL see all those numbers around the same. Whatever it is, IT'S DEFINITELY not right, especially considering the vacuum and the erratic miss and the fact that it seems to have gotten worse since the build, not better. The fact that you have an erratic miss that was milder before?...ehhhh, maybe totally unrelated. The miss you have now might be TOTALLY unrelated to whatever was going on before. I'm still leaning toward 'STICKY VALVE''.... AND, ...a leak down, sure, it will tell you if you have some leaking past things, but that's not a good indicator with this young of a motor. NO WAY that in 600 miles it's totally seated yet. Not sure the leak down is going to tell you much, or, more importantly, it might misdirect you because it's normal to have some leak down with a fresh build. I doubt it's the CAM, just seems more logical that it would miss more 'steady', a 'perpetually over and over at the same time' type miss."
So, there's that basket of nuggets from one of the "Engine Guru's"... I guess a sticky valve is a lot less likely than a bent one, to show any lower compression. It's not enough to make it stall, heck, it would probably pass smog... but it's enough to make it TOTALLY erratic and use case like a pig! Whatever it is, it SEEMS worse at idle, but if I hold it at 2500 or so, ....I can still hear it. Driving down the road? NOTHING, at least what I can 'feel'. I'm sure it's still there, but there is no hesitation, plenty of power, and no misfire-popping, backfire-popping,.... well, you get the picture. Even Tod said, "MAN, that sounds like you have a REALLY tricky one." But he's right, until I get in there, NOTHING will get solved.
As far as a buddy who asked about the CAM Settings/timing being off at 8 and 12.... Tod thinks "the guy probably either didn't do anything to the cam, or did the grind just set to factory specs, in which case you'd have a lil different duration, but the same lash"...Sorry Tod, if I didn't explain that just right, hahaha. He basically said that, 'If you have it set at 8 and 12, hot, and there's not big time pinging or chatter... they're probably set right. But if it's a sticking valve, it would cause an erratic miss, etc."
That's where I'm at, fer now~! lol.... I guess I'm going to speak to a homie that's going to stop by and help me out, see what he thinks. I'll probably pull the cam, first, and bring it in to a local machinist(A DIFFERENT LOCAL MACHINIST, OBVIOUSLY! HAHAHAHA!), and have him put the cam on a special machine that will give him the EXACT specs on duration, etc. Tod mentioned that, trying to mic it out, even out of the truck,...sure, if something is WAY off, it'll show up, but you really need a special cam-mic' machine to be SURE if something in THAT is causing all of this. ..... I still say sticky valve!" hahaha. GREAT talking to Tod, ..such a patient and helpful guy. I WILL be purchasing anything in that end from them, FOR SURE, if it comes to that. I can wait 3 days for a cam if it's needed. But like he said, .... "If it's not the cam, ....you're back where you started.", lol.
Any thoughts, guys? I'm trying to get him to drop in, maybe he can explain better than I have.... NO, I'M SURE HE CAN! lol.
Take it easy, guys, and have a GREAT WEEKEND!
Chef is ON DA WEY TOO DA GRILL MON!
PS> I'm going to "Pull the plug wires" on each of them, separately, again today, just for a lil longer, to check for alterations. And I will check the head torque while I'm in there. Besides, I'll have to pull them, anyhow, even if I only remove the cam for now.
Right on, I really appreciate the response. GRATEFUL!
Well, I spoke to Tod again.... He said that...." the compression sounds good, and with well under 1000 miles on her, ...it's not unusual to see that difference.. What's happening is that the front 3 haven't fully seated yet, but the #4 has. #3 is on it's way and #2 and #1 are taking a lil longer. Perfectly normal. Around another 500-600 miles and YOU WILL see all those numbers around the same. Whatever it is, IT'S DEFINITELY not right, especially considering the vacuum and the erratic miss and the fact that it seems to have gotten worse since the build, not better. The fact that you have an erratic miss that was milder before?...ehhhh, maybe totally unrelated. The miss you have now might be TOTALLY unrelated to whatever was going on before. I'm still leaning toward 'STICKY VALVE''.... AND, ...a leak down, sure, it will tell you if you have some leaking past things, but that's not a good indicator with this young of a motor. NO WAY that in 600 miles it's totally seated yet. Not sure the leak down is going to tell you much, or, more importantly, it might misdirect you because it's normal to have some leak down with a fresh build. I doubt it's the CAM, just seems more logical that it would miss more 'steady', a 'perpetually over and over at the same time' type miss."
So, there's that basket of nuggets from one of the "Engine Guru's"... I guess a sticky valve is a lot less likely than a bent one, to show any lower compression. It's not enough to make it stall, heck, it would probably pass smog... but it's enough to make it TOTALLY erratic and use case like a pig! Whatever it is, it SEEMS worse at idle, but if I hold it at 2500 or so, ....I can still hear it. Driving down the road? NOTHING, at least what I can 'feel'. I'm sure it's still there, but there is no hesitation, plenty of power, and no misfire-popping, backfire-popping,.... well, you get the picture. Even Tod said, "MAN, that sounds like you have a REALLY tricky one." But he's right, until I get in there, NOTHING will get solved.
As far as a buddy who asked about the CAM Settings/timing being off at 8 and 12.... Tod thinks "the guy probably either didn't do anything to the cam, or did the grind just set to factory specs, in which case you'd have a lil different duration, but the same lash"...Sorry Tod, if I didn't explain that just right, hahaha. He basically said that, 'If you have it set at 8 and 12, hot, and there's not big time pinging or chatter... they're probably set right. But if it's a sticking valve, it would cause an erratic miss, etc."
That's where I'm at, fer now~! lol.... I guess I'm going to speak to a homie that's going to stop by and help me out, see what he thinks. I'll probably pull the cam, first, and bring it in to a local machinist(A DIFFERENT LOCAL MACHINIST, OBVIOUSLY! HAHAHAHA!), and have him put the cam on a special machine that will give him the EXACT specs on duration, etc. Tod mentioned that, trying to mic it out, even out of the truck,...sure, if something is WAY off, it'll show up, but you really need a special cam-mic' machine to be SURE if something in THAT is causing all of this. ..... I still say sticky valve!" hahaha. GREAT talking to Tod, ..such a patient and helpful guy. I WILL be purchasing anything in that end from them, FOR SURE, if it comes to that. I can wait 3 days for a cam if it's needed. But like he said, .... "If it's not the cam, ....you're back where you started.", lol.
Any thoughts, guys? I'm trying to get him to drop in, maybe he can explain better than I have.... NO, I'M SURE HE CAN! lol.
Take it easy, guys, and have a GREAT WEEKEND!
Chef is ON DA WEY TOO DA GRILL MON!
PS> I'm going to "Pull the plug wires" on each of them, separately, again today, just for a lil longer, to check for alterations. And I will check the head torque while I'm in there. Besides, I'll have to pull them, anyhow, even if I only remove the cam for now.
08-27-2010, 11:13 AM
#691
AHHHHHHHH, I typed out responses to everyone, and it only included that? GRRR! lol.
MattHEW, ... Thanks man, I really needed that concise explanation. RIGHT ON! Tod as you can see is still leaning toward valve. Few others, CAM(even a machinist)... but either way, Tod is making LOTS of sense to me, ... Very nice guy! So is his dad! Ok, he's nice in a different way, ...bit more gritty, and I LIKE THAT, TOO! lol. Anyway, they've BOTH helped me now, immensely! GRATEFUL!
TOYOHOLIC! THERE YOU ARE!!!!! lol... I was explaining to some guys how you came by, we got lunch, did lots of motor talk, inspected a few dozen things... I mentioned that you would state what you thought of my truck and it's ride, etc.... AND HERE YOU ARE, .....See guys? I'm NOT CRAZY! lol. Seirously, 'J', thanks alot for coming by my pad, man! Very nice of ya. I'm happy things are rollin in the right direction for ya, too!!! Best wishes on that! To answer your question, YES, it is the same cam, with what this machinist who did the top end said, "a small grind". I explained above, through what Tod said... There ya have it, for now, eh? lol
MattHEW, ... Thanks man, I really needed that concise explanation. RIGHT ON! Tod as you can see is still leaning toward valve. Few others, CAM(even a machinist)... but either way, Tod is making LOTS of sense to me, ... Very nice guy! So is his dad!
Ok, he's nice in a different way, ...bit more gritty, and I LIKE THAT, TOO! lol. Anyway, they've BOTH helped me now, immensely! GRATEFUL! TOYOHOLIC! THERE YOU ARE!!!!! lol... I was explaining to some guys how you came by, we got lunch, did lots of motor talk, inspected a few dozen things... I mentioned that you would state what you thought of my truck and it's ride, etc.... AND HERE YOU ARE, .....See guys? I'm NOT CRAZY! lol. Seirously, 'J', thanks alot for coming by my pad, man! Very nice of ya. I'm happy things are rollin in the right direction for ya, too!!! Best wishes on that! To answer your question, YES, it is the same cam, with what this machinist who did the top end said, "a small grind". I explained above, through what Tod said... There ya have it, for now, eh? lol
08-27-2010, 11:59 AM
#693
Registered User
I have spend the last 14 hours or so thinking about your problem Mark & I THINK that I agree with Tod. sticking or bent valve. More leaning towards sticking because of the compression numbers.
08-27-2010, 01:25 PM
#695
Hahaha... Well, that's the thing, 90.... I've got the propane test guy saying "CAM" and Tod, a machinist, saying "Nahhhh, not likely the cam, I still say sticky valve". Ahhhh, lol. Either way, I'll have to get in there and tinker around until I find it.
OH, trust me, Rob, ... I don't doubt Tod, AT ALL. The only thing that keeps me curious is that the guy who did that propane, etc., etc., etc., tests... he says "Cam", and like Tod said, "it's always harder to tell without looking at, listening too and testing something in person. But I still say valve", lol. 
.... Story of my life over the past few months, eh? lol. Can't wait to figure it out, I TELL YOU WHAT! 
...that'll be a great day when it purrs without hiccup!!!! Ya know?
hahahaha. I'll do my best, 90! I'm pretty good at sharing pics and vid's, yeah? lol. Just keep in mind, ...I'll have some help from a good Yotatechie friend, so if he's not up for wasting too much time changing over angles and messing with the camera.... well, then it's out. But OF COURSE, if that's the case... YOU KNOW I'll do a follow up video, sharing what I find. 
Well, I'm reading up and trying to pin down exactly what I'm going to do, but I'm pretty sure I'm going to take out the cam, first, and have it inspected. Anything REALLY OFF, and nothing obvious with the valves... I'll slap one in and go from there. If it's still there, then the heads gotta come off. :/
lol. Ahhhhh, s'all good, one of my favorite hobbies has been wrenching! 
PS> I'm helping out a L.A. area Yotatechie tomorrow, I'll keep in touch and see if anyone can add some input to anything we might run into. Wish us well! .... His name is Rob2tech, I believe. I'm sure he'll stop in, and I'm looking forward to meeting him... I really hope I can help out and maybe stave off some possible 'OOPS', etc.
Take care, Guys, HAVE A GREAT WEEKEND!
Mark
.... Story of my life over the past few months, eh? lol. Can't wait to figure it out, I TELL YOU WHAT! ...that'll be a great day when it purrs without hiccup!!!! Ya know? Well, I'm reading up and trying to pin down exactly what I'm going to do, but I'm pretty sure I'm going to take out the cam, first, and have it inspected. Anything REALLY OFF, and nothing obvious with the valves... I'll slap one in and go from there. If it's still there, then the heads gotta come off. :/
lol. Ahhhhh, s'all good, one of my favorite hobbies has been wrenching! PS> I'm helping out a L.A. area Yotatechie tomorrow, I'll keep in touch and see if anyone can add some input to anything we might run into. Wish us well!
.... His name is Rob2tech, I believe. I'm sure he'll stop in, and I'm looking forward to meeting him... I really hope I can help out and maybe stave off some possible 'OOPS', etc. Take care, Guys, HAVE A GREAT WEEKEND!
Mark
08-27-2010, 01:27 PM
#696
PS> Tod was saying, as well, that "A bent valve could still be present..... Specifically, 'bent at the top of the stem'... which wouldn't really effect compression, but WOULD DEFINITELY effect duration and proper contact with the lifter." ...... That help? lol.
08-27-2010, 01:33 PM
#697
Just fired it up and drove around a good jaunt..... It ran REALLY well, BUT STILL has the miss. It just seemed way less chunky this time. Ran strong, no 'popping', no hesitation... and it idled pretty smooth when I got back.... BUT STILL with the miss, even though it was less aggressive. I pulled the wires(DANGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGG, that's hot, mister!) one at a time, checking for any major anomalies..... Nothing really too notable. Not sure, but it seemed to run without a miss, even though it was running on 3, when I pulled the #4. I'll have to do it again, just to really listen. Preferably with Rob2Tech tomorrow, maybe he can pull em while I listen at the pipe. They, all 4, bog down around the same when pulling each one. Just seemed to be without the miss on #4(I'll TRIPLE check and verify that one.) I also did it when fully warm... when things aren't as obvious, so I'm not sure I'm going to get a 'GREAT' idea without paying REALLLLLLLLLY close attention at the pipe.
08-27-2010, 08:47 PM
#698
Registered User
You know, Chef, when I said what I said about your compression readings I really didn't think about how little you've driven the thing and the rings having not really seated, yet......much less the valves not having really broken in. Sorry 'bout that. Were everything broken in, then I'd say 163, or thereabouts, would seem too low to me. Once my new rings broke in, I got 170 across all four. And, I didn't have any cylinder work done save honing them myself.
Last edited by thook; 08-27-2010 at 08:48 PM.
08-27-2010, 09:18 PM
#699
Yep, ... I actually got confirmation from another machinist on that, today. He said, it would run a lil hotter, too, and more like 2/5ths on the temp gauge... and REALLY hot under the hood. Is it getting a lil better?"... Yes, I said. Furthermore, he said, "Hmmm, I could see this going many different ways... but the most likely to me is a sticking valve(due to any number of things, including a seal too tight, etc.) COULD be the CAM, and I see why the mechanic thought that... but I would think that would not give such an erratic miss. I think there's other things going on too"... I had told him that my truck was still idling down before FULLY WARMING up. Also about the idling down under load. He still said 'short' in the realm of the dropping idle under load thing, because a short doesn't have to blow anything... it can just mean it's a line that's LOOSING current in some black hole that is OLD WIRING, lol. He said my mileage would improve as it seated as well... but not enough to make up for 15mpg when driving mildly.
Anywayyyyyyyy, I'm off tomorrow because they're heading to a Bday party in Santa Monica, so I'll be helping out a fellow yotatechie as best as I can with a verifying all the vacuum routes, connectors, prepping before first start, etc. Should be fun...I hope I'm helpful, but just being there can't hurt, eh? lol.
Then Sunday, Andy, my original Yotatech Visitor, will be back over to help me tear off the cover, dig in and see what we find. I think it's time for a valve adjustment, anyhow, at 500+ miles, eh? So WHY NOT, ..fo sho! THANKS, ANDY! Big time gratitude, brotha! lol. I'll keep ya'all updated... should get interesting.
OH, and I found out that O'reily's, of all places?.... One of the best prices on Crane Cams with the perfect profile(Pretty much the 261 or 268) either way I go. 112$ I believe. So, first we'll check the valve train for any obvious tweakage, then adjust the valves, pop the top back on and see if because of the grind that was done it runs better at 8 and 10 or so. If we get more chatter... then back to 8 and 12, which would more than likely lean even further to a tight seal or something of that sort in the valve train. I'm also going to put the stock AFM set up back on until it's fully broken in and running maybe a good chunk cooler under the hood(it's REALLY warm under there, lol). The Cold Air intake kit is simply getting too hot, and I am pretty sure that pulling from outside, rather than under the hood, might just cool down the reading that the intake air temp sensor gets, eh? We'll see.
THANKS AGAIN, MATTHEW, for all the help and encouragement. Great talking to you, every time!
Hope to talk to you tomorrow, let you know what's up with the build assist. OH, and Andy will be available right down the road, if we need any assistance! HOW COOL IS YOTATECH, .....and some elements of humanity, eh? hahaha.
Night ya'll, L8r t8rs, all that jazz!
Mark
Anywayyyyyyyy, I'm off tomorrow because they're heading to a Bday party in Santa Monica, so I'll be helping out a fellow yotatechie as best as I can with a verifying all the vacuum routes, connectors, prepping before first start, etc. Should be fun...I hope I'm helpful, but just being there can't hurt, eh? lol.
Then Sunday, Andy, my original Yotatech Visitor, will be back over to help me tear off the cover, dig in and see what we find. I think it's time for a valve adjustment, anyhow, at 500+ miles, eh? So WHY NOT, ..fo sho! THANKS, ANDY! Big time gratitude, brotha! lol. I'll keep ya'all updated... should get interesting.
OH, and I found out that O'reily's, of all places?.... One of the best prices on Crane Cams with the perfect profile(Pretty much the 261 or 268) either way I go. 112$ I believe. So, first we'll check the valve train for any obvious tweakage, then adjust the valves, pop the top back on and see if because of the grind that was done it runs better at 8 and 10 or so. If we get more chatter... then back to 8 and 12, which would more than likely lean even further to a tight seal or something of that sort in the valve train. I'm also going to put the stock AFM set up back on until it's fully broken in and running maybe a good chunk cooler under the hood(it's REALLY warm under there, lol). The Cold Air intake kit is simply getting too hot, and I am pretty sure that pulling from outside, rather than under the hood, might just cool down the reading that the intake air temp sensor gets, eh? We'll see.
THANKS AGAIN, MATTHEW, for all the help and encouragement. Great talking to you, every time!
Hope to talk to you tomorrow, let you know what's up with the build assist. OH, and Andy will be available right down the road, if we need any assistance! HOW COOL IS YOTATECH, .....and some elements of humanity, eh? hahaha.
Night ya'll, L8r t8rs, all that jazz!
Mark
08-28-2010, 03:57 AM
#700
Registered User
Here's an interesting tid bit for you......
Yesterday evening, I finally got around to inspecting my valve adjustment, changing oil, filters, thermostat, and greasing the drivetrain and front end. It's been almost 8k miles since I rebuilt, so the valvetrain was overdue for checking. All but one valve was overly tight.....#3 intake. Not by much, but enough I couldn't get the feeler guage in. I'd set them to 7 and 11 hot after the first 500mi's or so. 8 and 12, initially. 7 and 11 just made them quiter. Anyway, guess what? I'm not surprised by this, but I thought it might interest you to know, by example, that my cold idle is higher and steadier and of full duration until the engine has warmed. Telling, for you, no? Telling me for, too, because it means my IACV is functioning better than I'd thought. Yay for me!!!!
Took me about 20 min's to get the valves done, but #3 or #4 intake is making more noise than I'd like. So, next week I'm going to see about smoothing that out and redo them.
Oh, and I looked over Toyospearo's 1st p'up renovation thread. Inspiring! I'm getting a welder and patching my '86 up. Easier than swapping an entire powertrain and everything else under the hood. Plus, I'll have a welder to whatever with my soft top frame I'd like.
Anyway, later........
Yesterday evening, I finally got around to inspecting my valve adjustment, changing oil, filters, thermostat, and greasing the drivetrain and front end. It's been almost 8k miles since I rebuilt, so the valvetrain was overdue for checking. All but one valve was overly tight.....#3 intake. Not by much, but enough I couldn't get the feeler guage in. I'd set them to 7 and 11 hot after the first 500mi's or so. 8 and 12, initially. 7 and 11 just made them quiter. Anyway, guess what? I'm not surprised by this, but I thought it might interest you to know, by example, that my cold idle is higher and steadier and of full duration until the engine has warmed. Telling, for you, no? Telling me for, too, because it means my IACV is functioning better than I'd thought. Yay for me!!!!
Took me about 20 min's to get the valves done, but #3 or #4 intake is making more noise than I'd like. So, next week I'm going to see about smoothing that out and redo them.
Oh, and I looked over Toyospearo's 1st p'up renovation thread. Inspiring! I'm getting a welder and patching my '86 up. Easier than swapping an entire powertrain and everything else under the hood. Plus, I'll have a welder to whatever with my soft top frame I'd like.
Anyway, later........
