87 4Runner 22RE troubleshooting help needed
#621
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Hey Chef, sorry to hear about your troubles. I'm not an expert at all, so I can't help you much here - but FWIW, I've always had a little idle drop when under electrical load and don't have a corresponding miss.
I did have a Camry several years back with hard to trace miss, ended up being the coil. Dunno if you could find one to swap out temporarily just to 100% rule that out?
Good luck man!
I did have a Camry several years back with hard to trace miss, ended up being the coil. Dunno if you could find one to swap out temporarily just to 100% rule that out?
Good luck man!
#623
Hey Chef, sorry to hear about your troubles. I'm not an expert at all, so I can't help you much here - but FWIW, I've always had a little idle drop when under electrical load and don't have a corresponding miss.
I did have a Camry several years back with hard to trace miss, ended up being the coil. Dunno if you could find one to swap out temporarily just to 100% rule that out?
Good luck man!
I did have a Camry several years back with hard to trace miss, ended up being the coil. Dunno if you could find one to swap out temporarily just to 100% rule that out?
Good luck man!
Again, thanks for the input....
Mark
#624
Lol..... I know, I hear ya man... but I just can't let it go, especially considering it's getting such unacceptable mileage(15mpg city, MAX, when panzy'n it). I am driving it, Mike... don't get me wrong, I'm grateful that the build portion went well and so on. I've learned A LOT, too.... but I just can't go through all that and have it missing like this, let alone gobbling gas, and I especially don't want to let something go that could cause long term effects, much sooner than what I should expect from it, ya know?
#625
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Chef, the play in the distributor is fine and the looking at the video the bearing are still tight. As was said above, a bad coil can cause problems, ive seen the housing of a coil have a small crack in it causing the coil to ark to ground, the vehicle still ran but it had a bad miss at idle. I have a spare used coil, if you were close to me i would let you try it.
#626
That's really nice, Myyota.... I appreciate it. I think I can get one for 50$ out the door at the dealer...(discount).... so if I could verify it(doubt it's that simple, but WHO KNOWS, RIGHT? ...ONE CAN DREAM!!! HHAHAHA), then I'd just grab one. The ignitor is MUCH more expensive OEM... As is the Dizzy... neither of which I'd go with OEM on. (Even Toyota said as long as you get them both from Napa, they use new Dizzy's and all Denso innards)..soooo, lol. And, well, I"m not paying 400$ for an ignitor... sorry, lol. I could get 10 at the Jyard for that price, and that would last me longer than I'd be alive, eh? lol.
Anyway, yes, I'm trying to track one down to verify. My buddy at Kragen said "That's one that I can't pull a return for ya on".. so I can just try it. I guess they're strict with high output voltage thingy's, lol.
I've almost always read that coils usually, 90% or more of the time, cause issues when under load, not at idle... but I guess from what I'm reading, those other 10% can be a bear to figure out, and they can very well be the cause in special circumstances, eh? lolol.
Thanks again, Guys... Just hoping someone will have one I can try out. lol
Anyway, I'll ttysoon, y'all!
Anyway, yes, I'm trying to track one down to verify. My buddy at Kragen said "That's one that I can't pull a return for ya on".. so I can just try it. I guess they're strict with high output voltage thingy's, lol.
I've almost always read that coils usually, 90% or more of the time, cause issues when under load, not at idle... but I guess from what I'm reading, those other 10% can be a bear to figure out, and they can very well be the cause in special circumstances, eh? lolol.
Thanks again, Guys... Just hoping someone will have one I can try out. lol
Anyway, I'll ttysoon, y'all!
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 08-23-2010 at 02:37 PM.
#628
Wow, you've got alotta Dizzy's! lol. I think I might have found a donor coil to try out. It's a month old OEM, ...so why not give it a try, eh? lol. Not sure, but I think my Dizzy is ok. I'm going to have this guy drop it in the truck that the donor coil is out of... That should tell me for sure! PLEASE let him be available soon? lol.
#629
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Wow, you've got alotta Dizzy's! lol. I think I might have found a donor coil to try out. It's a month old OEM, ...so why not give it a try, eh? lol. Not sure, but I think my Dizzy is ok. I'm going to have this guy drop it in the truck that the donor coil is out of... That should tell me for sure! PLEASE let him be available soon? lol.
#630
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Mark, I found my meter and tested the coil on my '86. But, I'm only just popping my head as I don't have time right now to explain and go over something with you. Be back very soon, though..........
#631
From the video of your distributor it looks ok, and you said the pick up coil tested with in specs, and you said the gap was set at .016, last time i replaced a pick up coil i set it at .012, right in the middle. I doubt that there is anything wrong with the distributor, about the only thing i would reset is the gap on the pick up coil.
Talk to you soon. I have to clean up, but I'll check back in before I crash, k?
L8r t8r's!
Mark
#632
Registered User
Well, I'm puzzled.........first off. My primary coil measured out at 1-1.2 ohms. That's apparently way out of spec, but the engine runs great??????? Secondary measured out at a sold 13.??k ohms. Don't remember offhand exactly. I was paying more attention to meter behavior, anyway. So, on that note, retest your primary coil.....since your meter kept fluctuating....but, make the sure the probes have solid, steady connection with no movement from your hands. I say this because it seemed in testing the primary, the meter was real sensitive to any movement on this circuit, but not the secondary. The meter went right to 13.??k and stayed there. But, the more movement the more the meter was unsteady on the primary. What I did was firmly place the tips of the probes on the tips of the two wire studs. That seemed to give the best, most steady reading. Almost everytime the meter would go to 1.0 ohms and stay there with no variation.
What I'm trying to say is that your meter going high in resistance and then dropping within in spec, and then fluctuating even, could be just the quality of connection with your probes. If the studs/terminals look a bit dirty, go ahead and clean them, as well. It will only help with your reading.
That's all for now. I'll be doing some research on my own little anomoly. <<<???>>>
What I'm trying to say is that your meter going high in resistance and then dropping within in spec, and then fluctuating even, could be just the quality of connection with your probes. If the studs/terminals look a bit dirty, go ahead and clean them, as well. It will only help with your reading.
That's all for now. I'll be doing some research on my own little anomoly. <<<???>>>
#634
Need to clarify something;
When I said, "when initially touching the probes of my meter to the coil...started at anywhere between 40-90ohms....." , .... I forgot to mention it's NEGATIVE ( -40 and -90ohms ). So I guess the proper wording would be that "It creeps up from -40ohms to 0.7 to 0.8ohms".
Matthew,
Thanks, brudda........ Yeah, there were only a couple of readings, even on the ECU, where I think it happened once, that would 'start' at a higher number on the meter,..... then it would quickly travel to the proper number. Could be the connection. However, my point in expounding on this is that, now that I think back, I can't recall whether it was reading (Negative)whatever reading it was, then dropping or rising to the proper resistance. Make sense? I think it's just that, the meter takes a second to build a reading??? I think I remember Roger telling me, "The most important thing is the number that it winds up at, ...that it HOLDS there."
Anyway, with yours reading high, and still running smoothly.... I think I might just be chasing my tail within the proverbial maze that is "The Ignition System", hahaha. Not saying I am... just seems that way, lol. I mean, my number, even at 0.8 Ohms, is more within specs than the reading you obtained... yet, "purrrrrrrrr-pahpahpah-purrrrrr-papapurrrrrrrrr"......Ya know? hehe.
Hey 90, ....yeah, I just tested my meter again on a 1k Resistor, .... (.999 @ 2K setting)... That's pretty 'on the button'. It's a Radio Shack "Middle-Upper end model". It should be fine. If this one breaks or I can verify it's bad....(which it doesn't seem to be on voltage or resistance)... then I will, for sure, buy a Craftsman or Snap on or something.
When I said, "when initially touching the probes of my meter to the coil...started at anywhere between 40-90ohms....." , .... I forgot to mention it's NEGATIVE ( -40 and -90ohms ). So I guess the proper wording would be that "It creeps up from -40ohms to 0.7 to 0.8ohms".
Matthew,
Thanks, brudda........ Yeah, there were only a couple of readings, even on the ECU, where I think it happened once, that would 'start' at a higher number on the meter,..... then it would quickly travel to the proper number. Could be the connection. However, my point in expounding on this is that, now that I think back, I can't recall whether it was reading (Negative)whatever reading it was, then dropping or rising to the proper resistance. Make sense? I think it's just that, the meter takes a second to build a reading??? I think I remember Roger telling me, "The most important thing is the number that it winds up at, ...that it HOLDS there."
Anyway, with yours reading high, and still running smoothly.... I think I might just be chasing my tail within the proverbial maze that is "The Ignition System", hahaha. Not saying I am... just seems that way, lol. I mean, my number, even at 0.8 Ohms, is more within specs than the reading you obtained... yet, "purrrrrrrrr-pahpahpah-purrrrrr-papapurrrrrrrrr"......Ya know? hehe.
Hey 90, ....yeah, I just tested my meter again on a 1k Resistor, .... (.999 @ 2K setting)... That's pretty 'on the button'. It's a Radio Shack "Middle-Upper end model". It should be fine. If this one breaks or I can verify it's bad....(which it doesn't seem to be on voltage or resistance)... then I will, for sure, buy a Craftsman or Snap on or something.
#635
Registered User
I thought it was a "bah-bbbbb-bah-bah-bbbb-bah-bah"???? A "purrrrrrrrr-pahpahpah-purrrrrr-papapurrrrrrrrr" changes everything.....
I think it is just the meter connection, in your case, and the IG components are just fine.
Read this, if you would, Mark:
http://www.aa1car.com/library/vacleak.htm
I'm working on an idea to build you a small, simple smoke machine. It couldn't be hard. Smoke machines are built all the time for theatrics and parties. Why not? Seems you could use an aquarium pump, some tubing, dry ice with a small heater and container, plug it up and see what happens. Worth a shot?
I think it is just the meter connection, in your case, and the IG components are just fine.
Read this, if you would, Mark:
http://www.aa1car.com/library/vacleak.htm
I'm working on an idea to build you a small, simple smoke machine. It couldn't be hard. Smoke machines are built all the time for theatrics and parties. Why not? Seems you could use an aquarium pump, some tubing, dry ice with a small heater and container, plug it up and see what happens. Worth a shot?
#636
Registered User
Chef, what style of ignition coil do you have? The older style with the two wire studs coming out the end, or the newer style like the one here?......
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../4onvehicl.pdf
If you have the older style, did you disconnect the wires from the terminals/studs before you tested?
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../4onvehicl.pdf
If you have the older style, did you disconnect the wires from the terminals/studs before you tested?
#637
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[QUOTE=ChefYota4x4;51532848]Yeah, I've been reading, trying to find that adjustment for the pick-up coil, AHHHHH! LOL. Stupid Haynes! Actually, I can't blame them,... It's the 20 hour days in 100* weather! lol. As far as the coil.... well, the specs are 0.5-0.7ohms. When I first put the meter on it, it reads 40-90ohms....but quickly drops to 0.7 and flashes back and forth between 0.7 and 0.8ohms on "200" setting. That's what Thook is looking into. My meter is digital... and it's not the highest end model, lol. But it does read most thing properly. I think it just takes a second to drop in certain items.(Then again, maybe it shouldn't be doing that at all.... we'll see.)
To set the pick up coil just loosen it and slide it up or down and tighten it, then check the gap with a feeler gauge. For the coil, just because it tests good doesn`t mean it is. When your testing the coil with a meter there is now power going through it so it could very well test good, BUT when the coil is hooked up and there is high power being produced that`s a lot different, if there is a crack in the coil housing the power produced by the coil can get through that crack and ground out causing a bad miss. So if you can still get another coil to try out it would be worth doing that.
To set the pick up coil just loosen it and slide it up or down and tighten it, then check the gap with a feeler gauge. For the coil, just because it tests good doesn`t mean it is. When your testing the coil with a meter there is now power going through it so it could very well test good, BUT when the coil is hooked up and there is high power being produced that`s a lot different, if there is a crack in the coil housing the power produced by the coil can get through that crack and ground out causing a bad miss. So if you can still get another coil to try out it would be worth doing that.
#638
WOW, that is one of the best reads I've come across, yet, Matthew! I'm going to measure my vacuum pressure right now. Do you know what my particular vehicle is supposed to run at?(in case I can't find it in the Haynes?
And, I've got the old can style with the two prongs coming out the end. The ignitor sits on top.
And, I've got the old can style with the two prongs coming out the end. The ignitor sits on top.
#639
[quote=myyota;51533110]
Thanks man! Yeah, I'm still waiting for the call. Looks like he's just not gonna be able to get over here at any time I can 'depend on', ya know?
I hate to buy one for 50$+ only to find it's not needed, ya know?
Thanks for the info on the "pick-up adjustment". I looked at it before, but I couldn't find the screws you mean. I'll look again.
Yeah, I've been reading, trying to find that adjustment for the pick-up coil, AHHHHH! LOL. Stupid Haynes! Actually, I can't blame them,... It's the 20 hour days in 100* weather! lol. As far as the coil.... well, the specs are 0.5-0.7ohms. When I first put the meter on it, it reads 40-90ohms....but quickly drops to 0.7 and flashes back and forth between 0.7 and 0.8ohms on "200" setting. That's what Thook is looking into. My meter is digital... and it's not the highest end model, lol. But it does read most thing properly. I think it just takes a second to drop in certain items.(Then again, maybe it shouldn't be doing that at all.... we'll see.)
To set the pick up coil just loosen it and slide it up or down and tighten it, then check the gap with a feeler gauge. For the coil, just because it tests good doesn`t mean it is. When your testing the coil with a meter there is now power going through it so it could very well test good, BUT when the coil is hooked up and there is high power being produced that`s a lot different, if there is a crack in the coil housing the power produced by the coil can get through that crack and ground out causing a bad miss. So if you can still get another coil to try out it would be worth doing that.
To set the pick up coil just loosen it and slide it up or down and tighten it, then check the gap with a feeler gauge. For the coil, just because it tests good doesn`t mean it is. When your testing the coil with a meter there is now power going through it so it could very well test good, BUT when the coil is hooked up and there is high power being produced that`s a lot different, if there is a crack in the coil housing the power produced by the coil can get through that crack and ground out causing a bad miss. So if you can still get another coil to try out it would be worth doing that.
I hate to buy one for 50$+ only to find it's not needed, ya know?
Thanks for the info on the "pick-up adjustment". I looked at it before, but I couldn't find the screws you mean. I'll look again.
#640
Registered User
To set the pick up coil just loosen it and slide it up or down and tighten it, then check the gap with a feeler gauge. For the coil, just because it tests good doesn`t mean it is. When your testing the coil with a meter there is now power going through it so it could very well test good, BUT when the coil is hooked up and there is high power being produced that`s a lot different, if there is a crack in the coil housing the power produced by the coil can get through that crack and ground out causing a bad miss. So if you can still get another coil to try out it would be worth doing that.