87 4Runner 22RE troubleshooting help needed
08-17-2010, 05:33 AM
#584
Registered User
BTW, Chef.........I'm still doing research on your behalf. Electronics is a very complicated subject, let me tell you. My friend, who has a lot of experience, has even said there's a lot he doesn't know and no one knows about electricity. Nevertheless, I haven't been totally convinced of his verdict. I know I read some things that made me think "grounding" issue, so I've been rereading. I'll let you know the more I find out about what may be going on here. If you take it in, no big deal. Atleast it may be fixed more quickly that way, but the learning can still be had......which we'll do.
08-17-2010, 12:04 PM
#585
Hey Matthew!
Always great to hear from ya, brudda! Thank you, so much, Matthew, for taking your valuable time and using it up on research, trying to solve this mystery. I GREATLY appreciate it!!!!!!
Ok, well, I forgot to mention a couple things in my build thread(pics there of tires and beginning of console repair, lol)..........
ONE: I went by that shop, yesterday, where "TOM" works. I mentioned him to you, and not only the dealer but also the tire shop I went to said, plain and simple.... "HE IS BY FAR the best, most honest and intelligent Toyota Mechanic I know of within 100 Miles. The guy is "that guy" that even dealers send their 'MYSTERY' stuff to." Sooooo, was it worth while pulling in there? HOLY MACKEREL! YES!
Ok, so, basically what he said 'HE WOULD DO' is run the truck on propane. It's a long process of hooking up, but basically, he removes ALL THE EFI system(sensors, fuel pump, etc.) out of the picture, and runs it for a few minutes on propane... If the truck runs the same as on Fuel(EFI system all functioning)...then it's NOT a problem in the EFI end. If the problem goes away? ... VOILA! He said, "If it goes away, I would guess that you've either got a loose connection in the harness somewhere, regarding an Injector, etc... But since you had RC do it, I KNOW it isn't an injector itself.. they are THE BEST for miles with Fuel Injectors, period! All I use. So, first, I go through each injector wire with proper equipment and read/record ANY drops. If I find one within an injector wire, VOILA ,...time to tear down the harness, buddy(or other related component that I find is causing it, other than injectors... which I doubt if you're getting no codes, etc.). However, if it runs the same on propane..then I'll bet you dollars to donuts it's your ignition system, and most likely, 9 of 10 times, ...it's the Dizzy. They can go 500K, sure, but they sometimes don't. Right about now is the most common time for your truck to have one develop play, etc., which makes it VERY difficult to detect.. because the Dizzy is still working, ..just that, in spurts, it's intermittently not providing enough arch, etc. However, when you get going, it's much less noticeable. Could be a Coil, Ignitor or the dizzy, considering what you're telling me about the voltage wonkyness! I'd do the testing of the Ignition system first(Because the Propane trick is not cheap... it takes me a couple hours to hook up and then run the test...200$ or so). But, ignition stuff, which I will give you a backyard way to check. (1.) First bypass the E1-T connection... then, since you said it's idling up when you remove it, that means that part of the system is doing it's job, but it doesn't mean that the Dizzy is good. Jump those terminals, and watch.. if it's jumping more than 3 degrees, at any time, ....BLAMMO, I would bet 90% of what's in my pocket(need 20$ for lunch, or I'd bet it all, lol) that your dizzy is just right at the limits, and has been for a while....thus, you've felt this miss for some time.... and your air gap is right at the max, correct?" ....
Needless to say, I was excited to talk to someone who could go through a list like that(I'm sure much like your buddy who's past on, right?... Carl?). Anyhow, I got a LOT of info from him, and while he's IN NO WAY got the time to just sit down with me and shoot the breeze, tinkering with my car(should have seen this place, SOOOOOOO BUSY!)... I'm really grateful that he took the 30 Minutes to talk to me. He was diagnosing an Avalon, told me to get in and we spoke while he did both, spoke to me and finished testing this car, hahaha.
I thought maybe you could throw some of this by your buddy, see what he says? I'm going to test the timing again today and see how far it bounces... He told that, "Many cars, hondas, etc., tend to bounce around a bit when Jumping the terminals...but your 22re? ON THE DOT, and should barely move if at all. Since you said yours does bounce around, I would lean toward your dizzy. Also, since you mentioned the fluctuating idle with voltage load, I would be it's the battery. Might not be, but it's most often the problem. They test fine, but under a load like 'removing the fuel pump from the picture', then cranking the starter for a minute, ....does the voltage drop below 10V? If so, IT'S DONE, I don't care what Auto Zone says. They still use the battery while driving, and that can cause hard to solve hiccups if you don't think it's a battery issue."
So, I went straight to Auto Zone and had them load test my Battery. The guy said, "It's ahhhhh, 'OK', not good, but since you have a new Alternator, new wiring, etc.... I'll gladly replaced it." So I have a new Battery, ....but it's still doing the same thing on the voltage drop. I'm going to read it and check for charge, etc., today.... but I think I'll test the timing thing first.
Always great to hear from ya, brudda! Thank you, so much, Matthew, for taking your valuable time and using it up on research, trying to solve this mystery. I GREATLY appreciate it!!!!!!
Ok, well, I forgot to mention a couple things in my build thread(pics there of tires and beginning of console repair, lol)..........
ONE: I went by that shop, yesterday, where "TOM" works. I mentioned him to you, and not only the dealer but also the tire shop I went to said, plain and simple.... "HE IS BY FAR the best, most honest and intelligent Toyota Mechanic I know of within 100 Miles. The guy is "that guy" that even dealers send their 'MYSTERY' stuff to." Sooooo, was it worth while pulling in there? HOLY MACKEREL! YES!
Ok, so, basically what he said 'HE WOULD DO' is run the truck on propane. It's a long process of hooking up, but basically, he removes ALL THE EFI system(sensors, fuel pump, etc.) out of the picture, and runs it for a few minutes on propane... If the truck runs the same as on Fuel(EFI system all functioning)...then it's NOT a problem in the EFI end. If the problem goes away? ... VOILA! He said, "If it goes away, I would guess that you've either got a loose connection in the harness somewhere, regarding an Injector, etc... But since you had RC do it, I KNOW it isn't an injector itself.. they are THE BEST for miles with Fuel Injectors, period! All I use. So, first, I go through each injector wire with proper equipment and read/record ANY drops. If I find one within an injector wire, VOILA ,...time to tear down the harness, buddy(or other related component that I find is causing it, other than injectors... which I doubt if you're getting no codes, etc.). However, if it runs the same on propane..then I'll bet you dollars to donuts it's your ignition system, and most likely, 9 of 10 times, ...it's the Dizzy. They can go 500K, sure, but they sometimes don't. Right about now is the most common time for your truck to have one develop play, etc., which makes it VERY difficult to detect.. because the Dizzy is still working, ..just that, in spurts, it's intermittently not providing enough arch, etc. However, when you get going, it's much less noticeable. Could be a Coil, Ignitor or the dizzy, considering what you're telling me about the voltage wonkyness! I'd do the testing of the Ignition system first(Because the Propane trick is not cheap... it takes me a couple hours to hook up and then run the test...200$ or so). But, ignition stuff, which I will give you a backyard way to check. (1.) First bypass the E1-T connection... then, since you said it's idling up when you remove it, that means that part of the system is doing it's job, but it doesn't mean that the Dizzy is good. Jump those terminals, and watch.. if it's jumping more than 3 degrees, at any time, ....BLAMMO, I would bet 90% of what's in my pocket(need 20$ for lunch, or I'd bet it all, lol) that your dizzy is just right at the limits, and has been for a while....thus, you've felt this miss for some time.... and your air gap is right at the max, correct?" ....
Needless to say, I was excited to talk to someone who could go through a list like that(I'm sure much like your buddy who's past on, right?... Carl?). Anyhow, I got a LOT of info from him, and while he's IN NO WAY got the time to just sit down with me and shoot the breeze, tinkering with my car(should have seen this place, SOOOOOOO BUSY!)... I'm really grateful that he took the 30 Minutes to talk to me. He was diagnosing an Avalon, told me to get in and we spoke while he did both, spoke to me and finished testing this car, hahaha.
I thought maybe you could throw some of this by your buddy, see what he says? I'm going to test the timing again today and see how far it bounces... He told that, "Many cars, hondas, etc., tend to bounce around a bit when Jumping the terminals...but your 22re? ON THE DOT, and should barely move if at all. Since you said yours does bounce around, I would lean toward your dizzy. Also, since you mentioned the fluctuating idle with voltage load, I would be it's the battery. Might not be, but it's most often the problem. They test fine, but under a load like 'removing the fuel pump from the picture', then cranking the starter for a minute, ....does the voltage drop below 10V? If so, IT'S DONE, I don't care what Auto Zone says. They still use the battery while driving, and that can cause hard to solve hiccups if you don't think it's a battery issue."
So, I went straight to Auto Zone and had them load test my Battery. The guy said, "It's ahhhhh, 'OK', not good, but since you have a new Alternator, new wiring, etc.... I'll gladly replaced it." So I have a new Battery, ....but it's still doing the same thing on the voltage drop. I'm going to read it and check for charge, etc., today.... but I think I'll test the timing thing first.
08-17-2010, 05:03 PM
#586
Registered User
Carl's still around. It's Don Clarke who's gone elsewhere. Or, everywhere, depending on how you look at it. 
Tom, my friend/neighbor/electrical whiz, was leaning towards ignition dropping out, too. But, since you have a new battery and alternator, distributor is the next choice. I've been reading an autoshop article on testing it THOROUGHLY. So, gimme until later tonight and, if you like, I'll send the link.
Tom, my friend/neighbor/electrical whiz, was leaning towards ignition dropping out, too. But, since you have a new battery and alternator, distributor is the next choice. I've been reading an autoshop article on testing it THOROUGHLY. So, gimme until later tonight and, if you like, I'll send the link.
08-17-2010, 05:26 PM
#587
SWEEEEEEEET! I'll go hit a flick then! Had to return a printer for my sis at best buy today, ...OI VEY! lol. However, my kind and respectful(lil bit of desperation didn't hurt, hehehee) persistence paid off! I was walking out the door and the supervisor ran up to me, saying, "Hold on, that's just not right... lemme see what I can do." ...Walked out with a brand new one 10 min later, hahaha. (sis is in Hawaii, and upon return, her daughter has like 20 hours to read and then write and then print out a huge report to get into this advanced class.... First year of HSchool and all, eeeeeek, hahaha... So, she pleaded with me to have one and install it by Friday. Welllllll, it's done, 
) Plus, I wanna GET OUTTA HERE ASAP! It's really hot and I need fresh filtered ice melt!!!!!
) Plus, I wanna GET OUTTA HERE ASAP! It's really hot and I need fresh filtered ice melt!!!!!
08-18-2010, 07:02 AM
#589
Registered User
Goober peaz..........I finally found the thread, but it's for the 3vze.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/n...89-95-a-10543/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/n...89-95-a-10543/
08-18-2010, 10:56 AM
#590
Hey bubba, thanks. I read through a bit of the 3vze thread and..... well, I'm a bit unsure of how to try some of that on the 22re. I'm just now finding time to read the PDF, so lemme give that a go and see what I come up with.
Thanks, Matthew,
Mark
Thanks, Matthew,
Mark
08-18-2010, 11:55 AM
#591
Ok, I've read through the VAST section of that PDF, where my application is noted... I understand a bit more, and while I'm not sure I read it properly, it seems that MANY things can cause this in the system, including any of the applicable sensors. However, if the 'Reluctors' are worn or there is play in the shaft(the mechanic told me the latter) than the truck can have a very hard time communicating with the ECU and, well, 'working well with others(sensors)' hahaha. I printed out page 15, Matthew, because it's the only real 'check' I noticed that would give me an idea of whether or not I at least have a problem there. Yes, it's just the 'adjustment' of initial timing'. However, if I can at least determine if the timing is advancing properly (3*-13* I believe it noted), then I can go from there.
You know, it's funny.... Flecker, the guy who really helped me out and came by, 14 hours of diagnosis, etc.??? Well, one of the things he kept coming back to was "I expected your Dizzy numbers to be off. The pick up, etc. If you're right at .016, and it's snug, you SHOULD be ok, since your Pick-up resistance is right on, etc..... Because it really FEELS like a Distributor issue to me." We made sure it was right on the notch when adjusting the valves, etc.... Which, in all reality should be a given, considering how INCREDIBLY AWFUL it would run if it was off a tooth, lol. Ask Philbert, hehehe. Right Phil?
IF I do end up needing a Dizzy, I'm curious as to where to get one. My buddy at Napa told me they have both, Brand new and reman'd. The brand new has a new Denso Pick up/module and, well, it's brand new, top to bottom...... $269.22 my price.
The reman'd does NOT have a new pick up and is not new top to bottom... obviously, it's reman'd, hahaha..........$174.07 my price.
I'd like to load test everything and pin point more on the 'PRECISE' end... but I'll have to find the info first, ya know? Thanks for all your time and patience, Matthew. .... I know, it's not as if I'm dealing with a 'OH, DERRR, THERE IT IS' type thing, but still, I feel a lil bummed I've not been able to solve it, lol. Don't worry, only lasts for a few seconds here and there, hahaha.
Ok, well, I'ma do that timing test thingymadoer, lol.
You know, it's funny.... Flecker, the guy who really helped me out and came by, 14 hours of diagnosis, etc.??? Well, one of the things he kept coming back to was "I expected your Dizzy numbers to be off. The pick up, etc. If you're right at .016, and it's snug, you SHOULD be ok, since your Pick-up resistance is right on, etc..... Because it really FEELS like a Distributor issue to me." We made sure it was right on the notch when adjusting the valves, etc.... Which, in all reality should be a given, considering how INCREDIBLY AWFUL it would run if it was off a tooth, lol. Ask Philbert, hehehe. Right Phil?
IF I do end up needing a Dizzy, I'm curious as to where to get one. My buddy at Napa told me they have both, Brand new and reman'd. The brand new has a new Denso Pick up/module and, well, it's brand new, top to bottom...... $269.22 my price.
The reman'd does NOT have a new pick up and is not new top to bottom... obviously, it's reman'd, hahaha..........$174.07 my price.
I'd like to load test everything and pin point more on the 'PRECISE' end... but I'll have to find the info first, ya know? Thanks for all your time and patience, Matthew. .... I know, it's not as if I'm dealing with a 'OH, DERRR, THERE IT IS' type thing, but still, I feel a lil bummed I've not been able to solve it, lol. Don't worry, only lasts for a few seconds here and there, hahaha.
Ok, well, I'ma do that timing test thingymadoer, lol.
08-18-2010, 03:12 PM
#592
Going out to test it now....
Just wanted to add; While all my driving is L.A. 'Sea of Red' parking lot syndrome, 98% of it in this tank... while I'm sitting still at idle for long periods of time,...... while I've stomped on it a few times(only 3-4 times in the whole tank), I'm still getting NO MORE THAN 15MPG! That might be normal with the traffic conditions.... but I'm not happy with that if I can get more out of it. Yes, I'll maximize the fuel in practical ways, but I'm speaking mechanically. That just wont do.... and I WILL be testing it for Highway mileage asap, I just have to know how it's doing on that, too. If I'm getting around 21 or so, nothing in my way, driving conservatively... I can live with that, and then I'll know it's probably the traffic that's making it so bad regarding my findings.
Talk to you soon,
Mark
Just wanted to add; While all my driving is L.A. 'Sea of Red' parking lot syndrome, 98% of it in this tank... while I'm sitting still at idle for long periods of time,...... while I've stomped on it a few times(only 3-4 times in the whole tank), I'm still getting NO MORE THAN 15MPG! That might be normal with the traffic conditions.... but I'm not happy with that if I can get more out of it. Yes, I'll maximize the fuel in practical ways, but I'm speaking mechanically. That just wont do.... and I WILL be testing it for Highway mileage asap, I just have to know how it's doing on that, too. If I'm getting around 21 or so, nothing in my way, driving conservatively... I can live with that, and then I'll know it's probably the traffic that's making it so bad regarding my findings.
Talk to you soon,
Mark
08-18-2010, 05:46 PM
#593
TESTED TIMING THEORY:
Not sure what exactly it's pinpointing(if anything) but it's got to say something, eh? lol....
Ok;
1. Had it warmed up, Jumped T-E1, idle dropped as it's supposed to. Light on it said 8degrees, most often.... but jumped back to 6 or so and sometimes to nearly 10(maybe more, so hard to tell without single digit markers).
2. That's a jump of 4+ Degrees, from lowest to highest in the range it travels.
3. Let's just say, it's ERRATIC! LOL
So, I'd love to hear some input on this, should anyone care to chime in(I know you will when you can, Matthew). It's not that I don't trust that mechanic,... Just speaking with him for 20+ minutes I felt TOTALLY enlightened and like a laymen at the same time, haha. It's just that I want to find a FOR SURE way to rule out whether my Dizzy is just beyond the allowable play, etc, any longer. I've tested the Air Gap(.016, right at the limits) and the resistance of the pick up is right dead center of the middle of allowable range.... 160. Not that I'd do so, but I can't really afford, anyhow, to swap in a new one at at LEAST 270$ if I do it right.... So I'd really appreciate some input.
Thanks,
Mark
Not sure what exactly it's pinpointing(if anything) but it's got to say something, eh? lol....
Ok;
1. Had it warmed up, Jumped T-E1, idle dropped as it's supposed to. Light on it said 8degrees, most often.... but jumped back to 6 or so and sometimes to nearly 10(maybe more, so hard to tell without single digit markers).
2. That's a jump of 4+ Degrees, from lowest to highest in the range it travels.
3. Let's just say, it's ERRATIC! LOL
So, I'd love to hear some input on this, should anyone care to chime in(I know you will when you can, Matthew). It's not that I don't trust that mechanic,... Just speaking with him for 20+ minutes I felt TOTALLY enlightened and like a laymen at the same time, haha. It's just that I want to find a FOR SURE way to rule out whether my Dizzy is just beyond the allowable play, etc, any longer. I've tested the Air Gap(.016, right at the limits) and the resistance of the pick up is right dead center of the middle of allowable range.... 160. Not that I'd do so, but I can't really afford, anyhow, to swap in a new one at at LEAST 270$ if I do it right.... So I'd really appreciate some input.
Thanks,
Mark
08-19-2010, 02:05 AM
#594
Registered User
Have you noticed any play in the distributor shaft, Mark? Maybe you'be posted about this at some point, but I don't recall.
Don't worry about your mileage right now, Chef. I know it's bad. You should be doing better than 15mpg's even in traffic. If we can figure out your ignition issue, I'm sure this will solve your fuel economy.
Don't worry about your mileage right now, Chef. I know it's bad. You should be doing better than 15mpg's even in traffic. If we can figure out your ignition issue, I'm sure this will solve your fuel economy.
08-19-2010, 02:21 AM
#595
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
still following you Chef.
THOOK....yowza!!....you shmart!!....you and Chef doing this CSI thing here is intriguing.
unfortunately, i still have nothing to add to this thread guys.
THOOK....yowza!!....you shmart!!....you and Chef doing this CSI thing here is intriguing.
unfortunately, i still have nothing to add to this thread guys.
08-19-2010, 05:24 PM
#596
Thanks Matthew, ... Jerry! ...
Matthew, JUST got back from the Valley(107*), the Funeral... Probably not going to get under her shirt tonight.... but, do you know the Mileage ratio I'm supposed to be applying with 31's? Doesn't it make a difference from the stock 28's, on the odometer? Even then, I might have been generous on the 15mpg... so yes, it's SUCKAGE! LOL. I'll test the Dizzy asap. I can't remember, and since we've spoken since then on the phone...I'll leave it at that for now, until I can checkijuwaya!
Jerry, thanks man! lol.... Don't see many of the former 'input counsel' on here much any more, lol...
... Oh well, I've been grateful for any help I can get, and I understand man,....If you're not sure, what is there to say, right? I'm FULLY with ya on that, Brudda, hahaha. I am really just learning on this stuff, ....but it's starting to sink in. The Ignition system is clearly more complicated than the resistance checks, etc., I've done so far(along with the motor basics, valve clearance, etc.)... But I'm not suspecting the CSI at this point.... are you? hahaha. Actually, we're trying to rule out a worn out dizzy at this point, and then weasel through the rest of the ignition system and then, HOPEFULLY NOT, BUT, MAYBE, .... the chassis electrical or grounding somewhere. Gotta be a SOLID reason I'm having this idle drop when applying load to the charging system. Brand new Battery and Alternator now, too, ...sooooooo(yeah, it was still under Warranty so they just gave me one).
Matthew, JUST got back from the Valley(107*), the Funeral... Probably not going to get under her shirt tonight.... but, do you know the Mileage ratio I'm supposed to be applying with 31's? Doesn't it make a difference from the stock 28's, on the odometer? Even then, I might have been generous on the 15mpg... so yes, it's SUCKAGE! LOL. I'll test the Dizzy asap. I can't remember, and since we've spoken since then on the phone...I'll leave it at that for now, until I can checkijuwaya!
Jerry, thanks man! lol.... Don't see many of the former 'input counsel' on here much any more, lol...
... Oh well, I've been grateful for any help I can get, and I understand man,....If you're not sure, what is there to say, right? I'm FULLY with ya on that, Brudda, hahaha. I am really just learning on this stuff, ....but it's starting to sink in. The Ignition system is clearly more complicated than the resistance checks, etc., I've done so far(along with the motor basics, valve clearance, etc.)... But I'm not suspecting the CSI at this point.... are you? hahaha. Actually, we're trying to rule out a worn out dizzy at this point, and then weasel through the rest of the ignition system and then, HOPEFULLY NOT, BUT, MAYBE, .... the chassis electrical or grounding somewhere. Gotta be a SOLID reason I'm having this idle drop when applying load to the charging system. Brand new Battery and Alternator now, too, ...sooooooo(yeah, it was still under Warranty so they just gave me one).
08-19-2010, 07:55 PM
#598
Registered User
The gremlin, that is........
08-19-2010, 08:02 PM
#599
Registered User
Thanks Matthew, ... Jerry! ...
Matthew, JUST got back from the Valley(107*), the Funeral... Probably not going to get under her shirt tonight.... but, do you know the Mileage ratio I'm supposed to be applying with 31's? Doesn't it make a difference from the stock 28's, on the odometer? Even then, I might have been generous on the 15mpg... so yes, it's SUCKAGE! LOL. I'll test the Dizzy asap. I can't remember, and since we've spoken since then on the phone...I'll leave it at that for now, until I can checkijuwaya!
Not really sure on the ratio, bubba. I've been running 30X9.50's for the longest. I had some 31's on briefly and calculated 21mpgs's mixed driving, at one point. But, I didn't take into account the ratio difference, either. Some dude remarked, according to what he "knew" about the ratio difference, that was about right. So, I dunno. I know the info is somewhere here on YT, though.
Jerry, thanks man! lol.... Don't see many of the former 'input counsel' on here much any more, lol...... Oh well, I've been grateful for any help I can get, and I understand man,....If you're not sure, what is there to say, right? I'm FULLY with ya on that, Brudda, hahaha. I am really just learning on this stuff, ....but it's starting to sink in. The Ignition system is clearly more complicated than the resistance checks, etc., I've done so far(along with the motor basics, valve clearance, etc.)... But I'm not suspecting the CSI at this point.... are you? hahaha. Actually, we're trying to rule out a worn out dizzy at this point, and then weasel through the rest of the ignition system and then, HOPEFULLY NOT, BUT, MAYBE, .... the chassis electrical or grounding somewhere. Gotta be a SOLID reason I'm having this idle drop when applying load to the charging system. Brand new Battery and Alternator now, too, ...sooooooo(yeah, it was still under Warranty so they just gave me one).
Matthew, JUST got back from the Valley(107*), the Funeral... Probably not going to get under her shirt tonight.... but, do you know the Mileage ratio I'm supposed to be applying with 31's? Doesn't it make a difference from the stock 28's, on the odometer? Even then, I might have been generous on the 15mpg... so yes, it's SUCKAGE! LOL. I'll test the Dizzy asap. I can't remember, and since we've spoken since then on the phone...I'll leave it at that for now, until I can checkijuwaya!
Not really sure on the ratio, bubba. I've been running 30X9.50's for the longest. I had some 31's on briefly and calculated 21mpgs's mixed driving, at one point. But, I didn't take into account the ratio difference, either. Some dude remarked, according to what he "knew" about the ratio difference, that was about right. So, I dunno. I know the info is somewhere here on YT, though.
Jerry, thanks man! lol.... Don't see many of the former 'input counsel' on here much any more, lol...
... Oh well, I've been grateful for any help I can get, and I understand man,....If you're not sure, what is there to say, right? I'm FULLY with ya on that, Brudda, hahaha. I am really just learning on this stuff, ....but it's starting to sink in. The Ignition system is clearly more complicated than the resistance checks, etc., I've done so far(along with the motor basics, valve clearance, etc.)... But I'm not suspecting the CSI at this point.... are you? hahaha. Actually, we're trying to rule out a worn out dizzy at this point, and then weasel through the rest of the ignition system and then, HOPEFULLY NOT, BUT, MAYBE, .... the chassis electrical or grounding somewhere. Gotta be a SOLID reason I'm having this idle drop when applying load to the charging system. Brand new Battery and Alternator now, too, ...sooooooo(yeah, it was still under Warranty so they just gave me one).
08-20-2010, 08:24 AM
#600
I had to run around last night on some errands after the funeral, and it was strange... The truck seemed to run almost flawless at times, when stopping at a light...(Hardly any noticeable missing for a full minute or so while sitting at said lights). Then it would return and yet wasn't as dramatic. I got home and left the lights off and looked for arching, and listened to the Dizzy with a Stethoscope(great 9$ tool) and to be honest, I'm not sure what I'm listening for, but I didn't notice any LOUD bearing noise, etc.... However, I did notice an occasional 'clank', very quiet, but erratic/sporadic like my miss(yet I'm not really able to tell if it's happening right before or during the erratic missing).
As soon as I find time to pull the dizzy, I will. I'm also going to redo the basic testing of the coil and ignitor(not sure how on that one just yet).
I did install an LED Dome Light, last night.... But I'm curious if there is a Zenon bulb(or some other high output bulb) that would be better. This is an 8 light w/adapter, ....and it's fairly bright, but I'm not sure it's bright enough for actually justifying this swap/mod.
