1990yota-pickup

just drive them till you have a blow out at 80 mph...

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

HAHAHA! Hmmmmm, GREAT IDEA! lol. Yeah, it's so hard in the LA proper to get up to 80mph anyway...but still, not safe. Did you see the pics of the tires, 90?

Anyway, I couldn't get to see those today in the Valley, the Outlaw 2's with AT's on them... He wasn't gonna be home till 8pm,.... I am not driving back in that traffic for another 4 Hours round trip of 50 Miles! Uh uh! lol.

However, I pretty much decided to get the same times I've had for 100k miles. the only reason they're cracking, i would think, is from longer thatn usual periods of sitting on the street, and well, being 8 years old. Also, yeah, armor all, ...that might have done some of that, so I hear. Funny though, it doesn't crack the sides AT ALL! I would guess it's more from sitting, ya think?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

PS> Mine are 31x10.50x15 BFG AT/KO's..... and they've been REALLY good to me, and gotten me out of MANY a sticky situation....

Getting a good deal, too, for around 600$ installed for 4! So why not. THEN(the purpose of the PS in the first place, ahhaha)...I'm going to save up for those Treadwrights and put them on for trips I take. They should last a LONG time that way, as long as I store them properly, etc.... I'll need another set of rims for those, but Soft 8's will work well for that application, ya know? 130$ for 4.... perfect for those tires and the trips. For now, i'll stick with 'PRACTICAL'. Thanks for the input, guys!

mfwimg82

I just noticed my 33x12 bfg are cracking and not that old . my 31 bfg were cracked but just figured age now seeing the 33's cracking at just under 2 years old I am going for another brand when these go hopefully they will last as long as tread and not crack any more. I have been reading about premature cracking with bfg

thook

Okay......this is somewhat embarrassing. I had done some reading based on an idea'r I had about what was going on. I thought,"Oh, it's got to be a grounding issue". Then......well.....then, I talked to my neighbor who's an outstanding brainiac of an electrician. I ran my entire theory down to him asking for his opinion. He goes,"Uh....no". Hahahaha! He said it's a power load/voltage supply issue. It was hard to hear him while he was on his cell phone. Plus, he was slurring from the insane heat (he's a contractor, as well, and had been baking in the heat all day yesterday ), so I couldn't make out everything he was saying. I'll call him again today, though. But, basically he was suggested testing voltage at a couple of key places while the engine was running with an electrical load on it. He said something to the effect of somewhere the voltage is dropping out and by testing in these areas you should be able to locate it rather easily.

I'll be at work today and post what he says. This guy has taught me a lot about electricity and how to wire my own house. Fortunately, he also knows a lot about vehicles. He's one that could write text books on how this stuff works.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Well, ....I'm not sure, Mike, but I've been told that they're still one of the best tires for the money. That they're practical and very versatile, too. However, the guy who owns the tire shop?... He was telling me that all the warnings for 'DON'T USE ARMOR ALL' have been coming from BFG and a couple others. I guess it's causing cracking in the tires, and that there usually is no cracking past 1 inch in or so on the top/tread, because, well, no one sprays armor all on top of their tires, ...THANK GOD! lol. Anyway, they have a lifetime warranty while they're on my car, and road side hazard service for free, ...so I'm not too worried. I'd look into other tires, but most AT's seem so very non-aggressive and dang, I've got 100 THOUSAND out of these, ya know? NEVER had any other tire do that, not the duelers I had, or the Dunlap's, ... They just seem to last a LONG time. Once I'm fully done with my rig, I'll be driving it, A LOT, and I'll need them to last, as the next tires will be far more on me than the 'driving for the employers' cause, ya know?

DANG, I'm excited! Seriously.... I hope he can point me to some key areas. It's been doing this for a while, long before my build, so what in the heck could that be, with a new Alternator and even the wire replaced from Positive Terminal to Fuse Panel??? What I mean is, ...if not a ground, then what? Because, well, the 'source' is fairly new and should be fine! My battery tests at 12.25 or so, even when it's been on 'STA' key position for over an hour.... So I wouldn't think that Im' having a charging or battery/charge-hold problem, ya know? Hmmmmm, Ask him, "Could it be the ignition system, in some way, pulling way too much power due to failing resistance under load or something?(I.e. The coil or Secondary or Pick up or Dizzy-itself)???

Ok, I'll stop with the speculation....it just helps me to learn when I think out load, even in speculation mode! hahaha.

THANKS, MATTHEW! You're a good bud!

Mark

1990yota-pickup

i herd putting tire spray crapp on your tires is the worst thing you can do for them...

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

According to those who manufacture tires, 'YOU'RE RIGHT'! lol. BFG and a few others send out 'WARNINGS' to retailers, EVERY MONTH, .... Seriously, though?... The guy I know who owns the tire store where I'm getting mine?.... He said, "There ARE products that actually protect tires from UV damage, etc. However, they're far and few between. You really should call the manufacturers and ask them what they recommend. SOME things can actually help longevity, but MOST?...NAHHHHHHH! We use 100% ....NOTHING! lol"

1990yota-pickup

if you want a nice shine on your tires use some baby oil.. or some 10wt oil...

thook

I just spit shine my tires. It's a very dehydrating, but it's worth it getting those <<whoaa!>> looks at the mall....

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey 90, .....Nahhh, it's not 'important' so much. I just wanna find out if there's something that ACTUALLY protects them, ...you know, 'REAL PROTECTANT', lol. The Armor All Protectant doesn't shine. However, I'm not so sure any of those products are good, let alone un-harmful. I'll look into it more.

Matthew, ...HAHAHHAAA! Thanks for the laugh. You know, I've done my shoes a few times in life... but 4 TIRES? HAHAHAH! On a side note, I was hoping that guy would give you a couple things I could check..... cuz I'd like to get out of town but I'd prefer to do it AFTER at least tackling this Voltage Issue. I'm wondering, like I mentioned, if the ignition system could be causing this(Coil, Ignitor, Pick-up, maybe switch?). I think I remember saying that, "When I depress the brake pedal, even with the booster disconnected, it's still idling down." GO FIGURE, it's finally making some possible sense, now, seeing as I'm appearing to have a voltage issue. lol.

thook

First, I put my '86 under electrical load vs. idle tests. The idle only ever drops if I turn the headlights on. Given that, here's more or less what my friend has explained to me. BTW, he's been busy all weekend caving in Jasper, AR. So, he wasn't able to return my calls until this morning. Obviously.....no cell phone worky-worky in a cave....:

What he said was, and he can only make educated guesses since he can't be there to see the vehicle, was that he's 99% sure it's a voltage issue based on the symptoms you/I describe. What he would do is test the voltage at the battery while the vehicle is messing up and while it's not, and then compare the difference.

BRB..............

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hmmmm, ... Ok. Only thing is, it's pretty much doing that idle drop any time after it's warmed up. What I mean is, ... it's really much harder to tell when it's first started, .... Ya know, ... IACV, etc. But, it pretty much does it anytime I hit the brake pedal at a stop light or turn on the lights or signal, ....but it's more noticeable EVERY Time, when doing all those things at once. It actually drops in IDLE, not as much in Voltage, when activating all these things, around 100+ RPM. As far as the Voltage Needle, it does flick up and down a tiny bit when putting on the signal, etc.... But it doesn't seem to drop any more noticeably when putting all those things on... What I am saying is that it's not as dramatic as 1/7th, as with my idle.

Remember, when testing the Voltage at the ECU it was getting 14.6 or something like that? So, anyway, I want to test the voltage at the Battery and have someone turn on the signal and then lights and then press the brake, etc., right?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

PS> THANKS SO MUCH, MATTHEW, for checking into it! Pretty tired of this mystery, lol. It's becoming more and more like reading War and Peace..... some parts are great, and while I'm learning things, which i love.... IT'S SO MONOTONOUS AT TIMES! hahahaha

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

My tires come in tomorrow(I went with the same ones... they've lasted 100k, and are only 200$ more.... seemed the most practical and logical thing to do for me, lol). Maybe Tuesday, I can possibly take it to this shop I told you about. BUT, ..... I WILL check anything I can until that point, k? BTW, any idea as to what that cluster of wires(the connector I posted that is covered in brake fluid or whatever under the driver-kick panel?) ...as to what that is for? I'm trying to find it in the Haynes... HAHAHAHA!

thook

Okay........so, anyway....his best guess is that at idle, since alternator output is lower, for some reason the battery (or related part/s to the system) is not putting out enough voltage, or you're just not getting enough voltage even though enough is present. That is you're not getting enough for the ignition system...... particularly evident when there's a chassis electrical load placed on the system at the same time. And, this, Mark, is making total sense to me. When the engine is at idle (with chassis elec. load present), you need some battery power to help run the EFI/ignition. However, when you're driving, all those needs are met by the alternator and excess is returned to the battery for charging.

After talking to him, I realized I'd been thinking about your problem (after a certain point) all wrong. The problem was present before the rebuild. Chances are real great you made no mistakes sealing up the motor vacuum wise. All your components, if not new, are working right. So, the only logical thing is in the electrics somewhere. None of that has changed, really. Myyota made a good point about the fusible link. But, if Toyota puts in a certain size, why wouldn't that be good enough for the life of the vehicle. Well, as my neighbor explain (and, I did follow most of this), vehicles age. All the wires age. All the electrical components age. With this age, more resistance builds up in the system; wires, connectors, contacts, switches, sensors, blah, blah, blah. The specs from factory......again, as he explains......are theoretical. IOW's, this is how it is/should be when the vehicle is brand new. However, and I've read this myself, as this aging occurs, those specs change. With the aging, more voltage may be required, even if only a tad, to have something run sufficiently. Mark, from everything I've read over the years, this makes so much sense I feel like this is going down the right track. I've known that practically speaking, parts wear and Toyota (as well as other manufacturers) takes into account this aging and deterioration of efficiency, and they design everything to compensate for this with this in mind.

So, all you gotta do is start testing and compare when it's working right and when it's not. This might be a good primer for you here:

http://autoshop101.com/forms/h8.pdf

Well, this is all I gotz time for, at the moment. Gotta get back to work, I suppose..... <<<<<I wish!!!

BTW, take your trip, Cheferoni. You'z in no danger. It's annoying, but geez already....get the hell out!!!!!!!!!!!!

thook

Chef....can you gimme at a call while I'm at work today? Say around 4:30'ish my time? 2;30'ish yer time?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

HOLY CRAPOLI>............. yes, yes I can.... hahaha.

Talk to you then, Bud!

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

HAHAHAHA, MISSED THAT AT FIRST!

Right, ok, .... well, I hear ya! I'm going to assemble my Hitch Carrier today. Also check out my gear. I'm full on the 5gal. Freon end with a couple smaller empties w/adapter for refilling the lil guys. Got some new gear and it should be nice to try it out.

THANK YOU, Matthew, for all this good info. I might not be able to leave till next week... so I figured, "why not give it a shot or 50~!", right? hahaha. I will try anything, Matthew, you know that. As far as adding more power, are you speaking of a higher amp Alternator? I was thinking of doing that, and DIDN'T, DANGIT! lol. However, I'll get one today, if it'll be a good idea, either way. I mean, makes sense.... Before build, had a working but VERY aged Alt. with 250K on it.... 60AMPS> ... Replaced it with Reman.... 60AMPS.... COULD IT BE THAT FRIGGEN SIMPLE? Even without a load, you're saying it's possible that my ignition system is producing this miss because of not enough power? Hmmmmmmmm. I'll call you at 2:30... love jaberwalkyin with ya anyhow, hahaha.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

PS> I'm redoing my console lid. EEEEK, lol.... Seems like a lil more complicated than I'd thought. I can do it, 20 minutes, ...but I WANT IT DONE RIGHT< LOL. Any idea as to a good way? I have all the padding I need from JOANN's and some new Pleather(high quality)... I just need a plan! lol. I have all the old padding stripped off and ready to start. Maybe an auto Aph. shop would be best? lol