ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Ok, well, I know it's been uneventful here, lately. I'm going to post this on my build thread as well, but I wanted to share in case some of you might have some input or advice.

I pulled the bumper, it just DROVE ME NUTS that it was so bent and looked like crud! lol. Here's a pic........


I called Toyota Specialists in Chino, CA., and they said they could get me the Trail Gear Bumper in one day, which I could go out and pick up. However, the cost would be the same as if I had it shipped to me, through Scotty at Addicted Offroad(great guy, very helpful and understanding/patient with my ignorance, hahaha). I guess it makes more sense to just have it shipped, rather than wasting half a tank of gas for NOTHING, EH? lol. Just a LIL STRAPPED, ...but I think I can manage it. Just hate to do the rear bumper without doing the Offroad Addicted front Bumper, ...REALLY nice combo, ya know? However, I think I'll just add a guard to my existing bumper so I can hook up lights and have it at least look a lil more 'right', once the rear one is on. 330$ or so for the rear, with shipping, no tax.

If I go the route of the stock bumper, it's 120$ or so, free shipping, plus 30$ each or so for the 2 caps I need on the pass. side rear(they got deformed), .....and I"d have to have my mounts checked/possibly straightened as well, ya know? I'm looking at LEAST at 200$ for the stocky, ....but that's a lot cheaper than 330$ See, I already have a tow package, as you can see from the pic, and it's REALLY heavy duty, ...so I might just have to stick with the stocky route for now, .....any thoughts? If I do keep the stock, I'm going to mount a bar on the rear for a step, and mount an 'a-hole' light to it as well. I might even torch out the holes IN the bumper itself to mount a good high power back up light or two, ....but we'll see. Just wanted to get some Yotatech opinions on whether I should just eat the 130$ extra for the TG bumper from Addicted Offroad, ....removing my hitch(the TG one DOES have a hitch built in, does it not????) or just go stocky and replace only the center piece, chrome, end cap and side panel on pass. side on the other route>>>>>>>???????

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Question real quick, ..... Can I drive in CA. without a rear bumper? I can't remember but I seem to recall that being an issue with CHP or something. I mean, the License plate is on the tail gate....so it shouldn't be a problem there. Anyone know?

Also, the reason I'm asking this is because, if it's not illegal, I think I'll wait on the bumper and put the money into reinforcing my front end(maybe the BJ's and new Shocks as well)??? I have a lil rake, and well, I hear a lil 'clunk' on bumps at times, especially when off roading. Does that sound like a ball joint issue? Kind of a "metal on metal CLUNK noise when coming down from a bump" noise, ....and could TOTALLY history shocks make that clunking sound?

R4G1NG_BU11

From what i can tell you can drive without a bumper if you have a light truck, but i don't know how picky the cops would be, i know in my area there is this one deputy that will pull you over for almost anything. I think that if your missing the cover and absorber its ok, but if your also missing the steel rod that's too much. From what i can see they might just harass you but not enough to give you a ticket. Also if the truck was sold from the dealership without a bumper then technically it never will need one but it is recommended. Hope this helps.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Thanks Raging Bull, ...one of my Favorite movies, btw! lol.

Well, I ordered the Bumper from "Discount Body Parts" dot com. They were by far the most professional, cheapest and, I figured something out when speaking with them. They also own "Auto Parts Warehouse", which I'm sure MANY of you have heard of. Auto Parts Warehouse has free shipping over 50$, ..HOWEVER, EVERYTHING is marked up to meet the profit loss. The guy on the phone at Discount Parts Warehouse told me this, straight out! lol. He also said, "Look, I know how this can turn into an all day google fest, ..just let me do the deal, right now, and we'll total up the Bumper, shipping and handling, tax, and I'll take 15% off, no strings, ok? I have an employee discount and I can give it to you. I also answer lines for Auto Parts Warehouse, but with the Shipping included, plus cost higher, it wont make any difference in price. So, instead of 120$ for the bumper, plus 22$ shipping, 8$ handling, at 148$ total plus tax, equaling around 164$ total.... I'll ship it to you for a total of 148$ on the dot, ok?" ........ I responded with "OKAY! GET THAT THING IN THE MAIL TOMORROW, ALRIGHT?", LOL.

So I should have it by next Tuesday..........OR SO! lol.

Sorry for rambling, I just thought I'd share this nugget; "If you call almost any of these parts places, tell them you found the part for less at some other company, or just simply tell them, 'Yeahhh, with that shipping, I think I'll wait until I find it at a junk yard', ....THEY WILL OFTEN make you a deal. This is how I wound up with an account at Toyota, where I get 20% right off the top of ANY part, even if it's 1000$"

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Well, it's becoming clear that my rig is GUZZLING gasoline. However, I'm not quite sure how to verify exactly how much, ... as I need to, first, verify the 'SIZE OF MY FRIK'N TANK!', lol. I believe there are 14.8 and 17.1, or something like that, right? I called Toyota but was told they couldn't tell me by the VIN any longer, ....that part of their system is no longer available. I KNOW, let it get nearly empty, then fill it up. However, when does the dummy light come on? How much is left in the tank when that light comes on?

Anyhow, kinda a bummer. I mean, if I'm planning on a 800 Mile trip or so, I have to imagine it's going to cost me around 30-40% more than it should. Let's see, .... I filled up a week ago. I reset the odometer, and I'm down below 1/4 tank, after 120 Miles. NOT GOOD! WHAT THE HECK? LOL.

I sent Ted a PM to see if he's come across something like this, considering everything I've done/repaired/replaced.

It's been totally city driving, ...but STILL! hahaha. I'm going to let it go almost totally empty, with the light on, and then mark the miles. I've reset the timing and idle down to 750 since then(about a half tank in), but even then, .. STILL! lol.(At 750, btw? ... Seems to be less of a hiccup than before, ...but it's still there. However, the idle/air screw is really making me curious... It's hissing at 9 & 3 o'clock more than 6 & 12 o'clock... anyway, ...)

Out of curiosity, ... Anyone have an issue with not having a code for the 02 when running that rich? If that's the case, I mean. Also, any ideas as to whether a 'beginning to fail' FPR or Damper could cause this kind of consumption? Maybe a bad power wire to the fuse box, causing 'not enough spark'?? Not sure if that would even make sense,...but at this point??? lol.

My valves are right. The Timing is right. TPS is new. IACV working properly. CSI(HMMM, maybe it's worth ANOTHER test, lol). No MAJOR internal mods. Not sure on the Dizzy(air gap is just within limits, ... Pick up is reading fine, 162'). Fuel pump is new and I can't find ANY leaks. I'll look again. Strange thing is.... Even before my build, it seemed to not get the BEST mileage, ...but to be honest, it seems even worse, now, ..even with many new sensors, fuel pump, filter, and so on.

Just throwing it out there.

thook

Hey Mark. Man, I really wish I could be there and look at it for you. Allow me to post tomorrow after I've had some rest and can do some reviewing of the thread to see if we've overlooked something, 'kay?

Did you ever try the thread tape trick on the idle bypass screw?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, ...but the thing is, .. It didn't really make much if any difference in the hissing element. Not to mention, when I backed it out to check it out, it was appearing to shred. That worried me that some might find it's way into something where I'd not like it to be, hahaha. Actually, I've got an idea on that. I've found a way to make a molding that will securely encompass the lid... that way, at least I wont have to wonder if I'm sucking air in through there.

I really appreciate it, Matthew. I know how tiring life can be and then add brainstorming to the mix? lol.

I only mentioned the FPR and Damper because I've still not had time or the extra 60$ to buy or test the Fuel Pressure. It's really strange, Matthew... It seemed to run a bit better when I brought the idle down from 850 to 750. Usually, it's always been the other way around, whereas; If I have the idle up, it usually masks things like the "pup-pup...........pup............pup-pup" issue, hahaha. (<<<Sorry, that's the best way I know to describe it,..and actually, MANY people have said, "Thank you, ..that's exactly what mine does but I can't think of how to explain it", ahahaha.). Aside from that, I'm wondering if that positive terminal to fuse panel(engine bay, big box) wire could cause me the same problem I've read it causing other people. One guy said his performance improved like 'night and day'. I have the wire, just hadn't had time yet. I should, tomorrow... so I'll do it then. Can you remember if it is secured up into there by a 'hoop crimp' or soldered? I know it goes up into/or near the 80Amp Alternator Fuse, right? The wire I have there is like REALLY small, with a fusible link. Swimmerboy's mechanic just found his wire, same place, to be frayed within the insulation. So why not replace it, eh? lol. Can't hurt!

Ok bud, ..night then, and be careful out there. Heard a storm is coming in to your area?

thook

Ah Mark........you're such a nice guy. Yeah, I think something's suppose to hit our area, but I haven't looked at the radar/forecast in a couple of days. Life's only tiring when we're in resistance to how life is unfolding. If we're accepting and approaching with atleast some hope or optimism and focusing on the things that feel good, it's an entirely different story. Right now, it's just the heat and things that are WAY overdue for addressing that have me a bit bogged. But, I always find my rhythm and jump back in the flow. No big deal. Plus, I'm just freakin' tired. I should be in bed, dern it. But, I can't help it.......I'm a YT junkie. I guess it could be worse. I'm just fascinated by it all, though. What can I say?

Talk to you tomorrow, bro.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Okkkkkkkk, lol.

Well, anywhooooo, today, I.......

1. Pulled the steps off the side.........

Before;



After;




Put a spacer in, between the bumper mounts and body, ..brought the bumper up enough that I think when I get a straight face bar, ...it should work! I got creative and put a 3" wide plate/with slot, 1/3" thick, to force the angle upward.....

Before;




After;




I also replaced the Starter wire from the battery, ...Then, the wire from the positive terminal to the Fuse Box(under the 80amp fuse) PITA in my case, since the plate wanted to slide down and gave me trouble lining up, ...until I Re-installed the bolt to the plate/right side...... I also cleaned up all the grounds to the firewall and heatshrunk all of it plus Dielectric grease on everything. No real change, not that I could notice in a 4 Minute idle and jog around the block.

Still hunting for that miss and really would be grateful for any input on "thoughts on bad mileage"?????

Thanks guys,

Mark

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

UPDATE:

Guys, I'm sure many have either lost interest or just are plum out of suggestions with my troubleshooting thread, hahaha. However, I just wanted to throw out there, one more time, that, I have REALLY hit a wall in regards to what could be causing my excessive fuel consumption, 'pup-...........pupupupu............pup.........pup" miss, and; I rolled into Toyota this am, and the foreman there(whom I know), basically told me that he'd not be able to check things out for free when it came to getting into it like he'd have to in order to diagnose what my issue might be. He said, "It needs to be scoped out and fuel pressure, etc. Because, as you rolled in, today, ....with the regular diagnosis and as I see it running, I'd be left telling you, 'Nothing is really wrong with this that I can tell with a basic diagnosis. No codes, no real issue with idling or misfire/backfire, ... seeming to drive fine throughout all ranges. It needs a REALLY in depth scope write up, including all electronics and exhaust readings... With my system the way it is, I can't hook up to those without a proverbial arm and leg, ya know?"

Soooooooo, I got a number from him to a Japanese Truck Specialists- Shop in Carson... They specialize in MOSTLY Toyota, also Nissan and Mazda trucks, as well as Ford rigs with Mazda motors, lol. Anyway, he said, "I know your guy at Toy, ...he's a good guy, and if he's sending it out, sounds like a challenge to me. I tell you what, ...I'll diagnose it for free. But, if I find your problem and you choose to fix it, just pay me half of the diagnosis fee of 98$ We check everything, including your tranny, and I have no problem helping you out. It's just that I can't do the work of checking it out for nothing , if I find the problem... My boss expects the work to be done here for the 'Free Diagnosis' deal, ... Sound good?"

I guess I'm on it, guys.... I think it beats me trying to diagnose further, buying a Fuel Pressure Test Kit, etc., ...when I can have him check it out and HOPEFULLY figure it out for 50$ or so, ...ya know? I think I'm going to drop it off in the AM, tomorrow. I just can't spare any more time, NOR RUNNING AT 10-14 MPG! I'll update asap, ok?

tnevy4

did you have the head or block decked in your rebuild because that can throw off the height and bring the upper timing chain sprocket down and throw off your timing

Lumpy

Good thought there...

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Isn't that what the tensioner is for? Not being smart alec,...just asking. lol. Actually, my head was virtually perfect.... only needed resurfacing that I can remember. I'll triple check again. Thanks Tnevy!

ANY advice is appreciated! I mean, how many reasons could be causing 10-12 MPG???? Anyone? FPR? Damper?(doubtful, I know, but hey, lol) I'll repost all I've done and such, ....gotta serve dinner.

BBSoon!

yotarob2005

Chef, Honestly I don't give up easily & obviously you don't either man. There have been times (very few) when I had to throw in the towel & take it in for diagnoses. I usually take mine to the dealer, sometimes it could cost a hundred or 2, but I never let them fix it. You could spend another month cussing at it or just take it in, pay alittle juice & have it running like you want it to in no time. As much as a DIY guy I like to consider myself, and I consider you to be, you have tried to your best ability to find the problem. And remained positive the whole frustrating way. I 100% support your decision to take it to a reputable shop and have it diagnosed.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Thanks, man! lol. Seriously, I hate to give up, but there's just a limit to my tools and well, the lack of a scope and tail pipe diagnosis, ...yeah, I could really use a second set of more experienced and well equipped(tool wise) eyes!lol. We'll see, ....have a couple of days before I can take it in. The only thing I haven't done is swapped out the FPR, and if the upper diaphram is good but lower is bad,....I suppose it could just constantly be dumping fuel. That would make sense on the hiccup AND the loss of fuel, since the FPR, around town(98% of my driving is stop and go and idle), accounts for around 30% reduction in Fuel Pressure at Idle or steady low RPM, ya know? My buddy will let me know if I can throw one on there just for a try,..then return it, lol. We'll see, like I said, but thanks, Rob, ...Appreciate that. Not trying to be stubborn... I had it at Toyota, remember? 4 DAYS and the guy sent it home. I actually figured out more than they did over the next couple weeks and the ECU issue(having the wrong one in there, etc.). 3 Guru's have spent multiple hours with it, and they're mystified, lol.... As I said, twice, lol, ... "We'll see".

TTysoon, Rob!

Mark

Crewton

Lol I hope its not one of those stupid little things that is so incredibly simple... I respect your 17 pages of diagnosing posts and one good thing to always keep in mind when dealing with these kind of situations is to "think outside the box". My friend who is an aviation mechanic was working with this helicopter that had a "low rotor light coming up on it. And the only way to test the things they were checking was to take the helicopter outside the shop and spool it up. So they did that about half a dozen times before a light came on in his head. He pulled apart the warning light in the dash and found that the ground for that light was loose, thus causing the light to signal "low rotor".

tnevy4

how clean is your fuel rail

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Tnevy4,

Well, it's funny(it wasn't that funny at the time, lol)>> When dropping the motor back in and the new fuel filter and pump, etc.... I didn't flush out the lines, so something broke free between the filter and rail and wound up right in the #2 injector.... I noided it out, ...GOOD. Then, tore it back down to find it had frozen shut from this piece of craplola sticking in it. Walked them back into RC Injectors and he cleared it out for me, gave me some tips, ( I also took ALL the injectors in, when this happened, ... He tested them all while I waited and #2 was the only one stuck,... but freed right up and held 'Excellent' pulse again). ...I slapped it all back together and VOILA, ... #2 Exhaust Pipe was HOT again, lol. I mention that story from the build thread, below(maybe it was in this one, ..hmmm, can't remember, hahahaha)... because while I had it apart I double checked/cleaned up the Throttle Body, Fuel Rail, etc.(Didn't want to have that happening again, ya know? lol)

Any more thoughts, guys? Thanks alot for pushing on with me! lol. Been told the lower diaphram can bust but the upper can hold, keeping fuel out of the vacuum line, but allowing it free flowing through to the rail. That COULD account for 30% or so 'TOO MUCH FUEL' during idle, etc., (keep in mind most of my driving, 98%, is around town, stop and go).

thook

Every pic I've ever looked at of these regulators show only one diaphragm. No upper and lower, so I don't know where whomever told you this got that idea. Maybe other vehicles have it, but not ours. Look here on page 8.........

http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h22.pdf

I could see some of the crappola causing the valve to stick, though. This valve allows or disallows fuel to return to the tank. If allows too much from sticking open, your pressure will be low and you'll run lean. If it doesn't allow enough from sticking too closed, you pressure will be too high and you'll run rich.

And, timely you should bring that crappola thing up. I told you I'd reread the thread to see if there's something overlooked. Right now, I'm about half way through. But, I'm making a list of things to check off entirely as "PASS" and others with "?" that need further investigation. I've just had too many things going on to get back with you as soon as I'd have liked. Anyway, seems as I recall you even questioning this sticky regulator thing before and I'd kinda scoffed at the idea because this doesn't normally happend. But, I did overlooked your fuel crappola issue. Sorry, Mark.

So, if this is the case, that it's sticking, I don't know of anyway to verify that without swapping with a known good one or testing the fuel pressure with a guage under all operating conditions. The testing would tell you how it's sticking.

I do have one idea, on second thought. Let's say it's staying open too much........the little ball inside has crap on it and won't let the valve shut when need be. Okay......that'd cause you to run lean at times when you need more pressure. Well, that doesn't explain the crap mileage. On the other hand, throw the O2 factor in.........detecting a lean condition under acceleration.......and the ECU opens the injectors longer for more fuel. Boom!!! You're needing a lot of fuel to balance and so consumption is high.

But, let's say it's stuck in too closed of a position. This cause pressure to be too high and you'd be running rich. Theoretically, the O2 could balance out enough, but it's very possible that it can't.

You know, I'd told you about my wife's 4rnr and I'd come to the conclusion her motor was actually running too lean once I'd disconnected the O2. I only discovered this because the O2/ECU relationship could no longer keep that in check by adding more fuel to balance. Well, with the Bostched sensor, she was only getting an average of 14.5mpg. With no O2, she was getting nearly 20. With the new Denso, averaging nearly 17. The Denso still works better than the Bostched, but it's still only masking the lean injector condition. They're clogged. Yours aren't, but the O2 can still be masking the real condition. Have you tried running around without your O2 for a few days?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for the info on the FPR!

Well, I did post in this thread that I'd done SOME testing of the FPR and VSV relationship/system, using a Vacuum Pump. Something I'd noticed was that, when disconnecting the vacuum to the FPR, even with it simply plugged up, not getting any vacuum, ...it would seem to idle higher. Then, when plugging it back in, it would idle down. I know it's not a 'fail safe' way to check it, ...but it does somewhat purvey that the FPR is at least partially doing it's job, does it not? I mean, at idle, the FPR is under higher pull of vacuum, correct? What I mean is, at idle, the vacuum is pulling on it, causing it to regulate the fuel pressure, lower, keeping the pump from ramming 40(whatever) inches into the injectors at all times. Then, when putting a load on it, the vacuum in the system disappears and thus, the FPR does not get in the way of the needed fuel pressure to make up for said, added load.(When I pull the vacuum off the FPR, and the idle raises, ...I would think that's normal, considering it's at idle, and I've just taken it's ability to regulate the pressure away...thus, the idle rises)...???? Make sense??? Forgive me if I've explained it improperly, but hopefully, you know what I'm saying... Fhewwwwww, lol.

In relation to the 02, ...Ok, I'm starting to see how all these different sensors/components relationships are crucial for keeping it at optimum fuel/air, spark, etc. You mentioned my 02 not being properly heated....but to be honest, I've not had enough time to really look into that. Not sure I'd know exactly what to look for, anyhow, hahaha. I get what you're saying... It needs to read the temp coming out the exhaust manifold, properly, in order to accurately measure the 'TRUE' condition/temps/air-fuel ratios, etc., coming from the motor as it's supposed to(as it's designed to, at the factory, in relation to the ECU and so forth).

When reading the 02 at the ECU(the new Donor for my year, ...which I"M POSITIVE is the right number).... it's reading properly, 8 times in 10 seconds, fluctuating as it's supposed to. However, that doesn't necessarily mean that it's able to tell the ECU the 'right' information, considering it might be unable to get hot enough, etc., ... Correct? One thing, .... I have NO SMOKE, ...none! However, I HAVE A NEW CAT, Calif. Style, 3 way, which I suppose could be 'doing it's job' by burning up any extra-unused fuel before exiting the tail pipe. So, without knowing the NoX and such, BEFORE the CAT, it's going to be difficult to tell whether the mix coming through the exhaust is MUCH more rich than it should be, .... Again, make any sense? lol. I'm just trying to learn and relay what I can only guess, at this point, could be happening, lol. Not sure on the Damper, either. I wouldn't think it could make me wind up with 12???MPG(I'm getting close to empty, and I'm at 158 miles...and I HAVE stomped on it a bit, here and there)I might get around 170 Miles out of it,....which is still really bad! .... *The 'Fuel' light is coming on, just now, ONLY when I really stomp on the brakes on a hill and force the gas flow forward.)

Ted wrote me(love that guy...such a helpful man!) saying that my account of my voltage needle on the Volt Gauge bouncing a lil could very well be a sign of something that could easily wreak havoc on an OBD1-ECU system. I cleaned up the grounds, replace the wire between the pos. terminal and Fuse box(engine bay) and the ground side as well, and replaced the starter wire, cleaned up the ground on the firewall,....cleaned up the other grounds, well, from what I could see, when rebuilding(like the one that bolts to the back of the head(PITA)...and then to the rear firewall), ...I cleaned up the connection to the outer nut on the intake as well..... Yet the needle it still bouncing, VERY SLIGHTLY, when putting on the turn signal. I have no idea if it's related, ....but my right column lever has an issue.... The Cruise Control spring-lever seems to be fine(even though my CC doesn't work, lol...even the CC light works on the dash, hahaha), but the button on the end of the lever for the 'Windshield wiper washer fluid' does not work(it's depressed and wont come out, ...the spring is gone I suppose?).. Not sure if this could have caused a lil short in there. Also, when I put on my lights, the dimmer dial only allows my lights to be on when the dimmer dial is forced all the way clockwise, ....then the lights in the dash all work, fine. However, when I turn on the lights, even to auxiliary lights(w/out headlights), the clock dims to nearly invisible. The voltage doesn't drop when I do this, on the gauge that is, ..but I'm not sure if that's normal for the clock to do that. I'm also going to test my lighter, today....because it's SO FRUSTRATING to have an inverter, but not be able to use it unless the truck is on. My battery reads 12.6 Volts, RIGHT NOW. Yet, the lighter, when I was camping and trying to use the inverter, only read 11.5 volts with a multi-meter a fellow camper hooked up. He said, "You can't use this lighter to power this thing with the truck off..it wont work, because the inverter HAS TO HAVE 12V minimum to even operate(Because it has an internal fan, which you'll hear running, but there's not enough left to power the inverter-output). Could it just be that my lighter housing is corroded in there or something? Or does my lights/clock and barely bouncing voltage gauge needle suggest there's something else wrong between the battery and "Dash-interior voltage needs"???? ahhhhhhh, lol.