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87 4Runner 22RE troubleshooting help needed

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Old 07-12-2010, 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by thook
The idle air control valve doesn't operate off of intake air temp sensor or the coolant temp sensor. They're in no way connected. The IACV is self contained except for the fact it's voltage (for the heater element) is supplied by the COR.

Did you try using the thread tape, yet?

If that fella's willing to help FOR FREE, I'd take him up on it. Very nice.
Ahhhh, ok, thanks for the explanation. GREAT info-addition to the seemingly ever growing cornucopia that is the '22R-E Database', hahaha.


I got the tape, today, from my neighbor. It was nice doing the Zuk Mod, .....took my mind off things for a day or so, ....but alas, "The Bug MUST be located and eliminated" lest I PULL MY HAIR OUT AT THE ROOTS! lol.

I refilled it and have been driving very mellow. Trying to see if my stomping on it and idling for such long periods of time had SOME-TO-DO with my eating up more fuel than normal. But again, IT MUST be doing something that's causing a rich condition, and in turn causing the ECU to 'HIKE UP THE AIR' to meet the need.

I want to try some starter fluid again to try and see if I can find a leak, ...and I've STILL not had time to do the booster swap(For purposes of increasing the P.O.E.).. and I will try the thread seal tape tomorrow morning. It's strange, Thook, ...it's like, as I turn that screw, ....when it's at 6&12, it's louder, I can hear it hissing louder in the pipe, then at 3&9, it's quieter. Seemed to do that with the other TBody as well. Hmmmm, lol.

I gotta crash, but I really appreciate any thoughts you have. After all, even if I can find the time to get it to Toyota, ...it's no guarantee that he'll find it within a reasonable time(before he has to start charging to fish around), ...and for the purpose of giving him EVERYTHING I've done or tried, replaced or swapped in testing, etc., .... I'd like to be ready if/when I bring it to him.

I've learned a lot, but I seem to be up against a proverbial wall, you know?
Old 07-13-2010, 07:23 PM
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I know what you mean, Chef. You do the best you can with where you're at. And, you're at a pretty good place. I wish I could just be there and actually look at it....lol.
Old 07-13-2010, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by thook
I know what you mean, Chef. You do the best you can with where you're at. And, you're at a pretty good place. I wish I could just be there and actually look at it....lol.
HOLY MACKEREL, ...HAHAHA. I'd stand on my head till my ears were turning red, just to have you peeking under the hood for a bit, lol. I hope I've been thorough enough, or clarified at times, when I'd not done so.....And, well, I just wanted you, and everyone else, to know that I REALLY DO look into and sometimes check(if I've not already) everything that's suggested to me. Just seems to be a tricky one. That's why.....

Actually, I wanted to update/clarify a bit;

1.) IT'S RUNNING WAY better than before the ECU

2.) It's running smoother, w/lil more power, with the VSV eliminated. (Less 'pup-pup............pupupup' miss, but it's still there. )

3.) It's Idling up 'ok' when cold, maybe around 900-1000, then down within a minute like it's supposed to, to around 800(at 750, the pup-pup thing seems a lil more obvious and chunky)

4.) With the timing at 12* BTDC, the air screw can be much further in, but it seems to be a lil less responsive(THIS HAS TO MEAN SOMETHING, ......no idea what, hahaha).

5.) I can not, for the life of me, find any vacuum leaks. However, .....I also can't, for the life of me, SEEM TO BE ABLE TO FIND SOMEONE WHO SMOKE TESTS! lol.

6.) Before the build, new clutch, Mods, ...it did around 70-75 Max on the FRWY, ......now it seems to do around 90, if I want it to, without, really, any problem at all. However, on the hills?>> SAME OL DOG, lol. I'm guessing that's gears, and I'LL LIVE WITH IT, SAVING HUNDREDS OF DOLLARS FOR NOW! lol. The thing does around 60, NO PROBLEM, in 3rd, ....but it's pushing the RPMS too much to do that, ...NO THANKS. So i'll just have to deal, I suppose, until I can afford to re-gear.

7.) I'm making this temporary list, Thook, because i want you to understand, .....I'M VERY grateful that it's running as good as it is, ....and I'm not trying for "PERFECTION", by any means. I know it's old, ...it's gonna have tics off and on. But I'm pretty sure, from talking with ya, ...You understand where I'm at with wanting to get rid of that hiccup, the 02 Code, ...etc. "It's just not acceptable"....that's the simplest way I know to put it, for now, hahaha.

8.) I spoke with a VERY good mechanic, today. Toyota-Lexus for 35 YEARS! He's really busy for a semi-retired guy. However, he said he's got a fail-proof method for pinpointing this type of thing, ...which he VERY OFTEN found to be, sure enough, "Harness related". I've read alot about that, and he wasn't saying "I'll bet you 100$ that's it". ...He just wants to help, if he can find the time, by eliminating the 02 issue, once and for all, by rewiring it directly to the ECU via the rear firewall(which he said, "THEY SHOULD OF DONE IN THE FIRST PLACE! Lol.) He did say, "Most often, when I found an "02 Signal" code, .... it was a corroded or severing wiring issue in the harness, ...or it was just a bad connection at the ECU to that prong.....especially if the 02 is new and installed correctly and READING ON THE DIAG. PORT!" Soooooooo, lol. Just waiting for a call from him, and I'll do all the work, trust me, ..he's helped me once before and he never lifted a finger, except to slap mine, hhahaha!

Honestly, Thook, ....I really am a quick learner. ....there's just something about the 40 Prongs and 40 different names for each one on the ECU, etc..... If someone just 'shows me' "Stick it in this one, ground it here, then read it out on the 2v setting"....IT'S DONE! LOL. Actually, even a very anal explanation will get it for me. I'm just a visual learner, ....much better that way. I did almost all of my motor, until the specs, without ever reading the book, ...just by memory and from the many big and small block V8's I'd done in the past. But that TPS thing on 4Crawler? ...IT'S SO GREAT an explanation...but it just TOTALLY threw me, 3 times, until I finally got all 3 stages in line and mastered the lil bugger. Now, seriously, I feel I could do that with my eyes closed, ...mostly due to 'SEEING IT, with my eyes'. Some type of comprehension thing, ....oddly, I've gotten MUCH better as I've gotten older, ....I guess I'm able to focus more clearly and resistant to distraction when I have an agenda like this! hahahaha.

Sorry for rambling, just wanted to explain to everyone, ... "I WILL GET IT, AND I WILL NOT give up! .....I just sometimes have to 'SEE IT', to really 'GET IT-GOT IT- GOOD!' Ya know?", hahaha.

I'm going to either solve/or at least/ eliminate the 02, itself, as being a problem, next. I will find out if it's getting signal at the ECU, first thing. If not, I'll rewire it from the ECU directly to the 02, and whatever else he tells me to do in regards to that 'unit'.

Then, I will FIND THIS PUP-PUP FREAKY HICCUP, one way or the other,....possibly through the same method, within the relationship of the ECU and EVERYTHING ELSE! lol.

Funniest thing, Thook......as I look back as some of the things, years ago, I would have said, "OH HECK NO", as to fixing said issue myself? .....PIECE OF CAKE, almost all of it, including some more complicated things.........

I REALLY, REALLY LOVE THIS STUFF!

Thanks again, to everyone, thus far, for all your input and patience. If it helps, ..you can ask Flecker, who was here, ......"Is it really that tricky of a bug?"... and I think he'd say, ...'yeah, it is, but it'll get fixed'.....OH goodness, I hope he would at least! haha.
Old 07-13-2010, 10:05 PM
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You should read some of my old posts, Chef. You remind me of me, in some ways. Eager, enthusiastic....mostly, and willing. Pat yourself on the back, my friend. Eventually everything you're learning starts gelling. Then, you'll look back on your old posts and chuckle to yourself. You're welcome to all the help you get from me. I know you're giving it 100% and then some.

Anyway, if it was a problem with the O2 wire, it would reflect at the diagnostic port. That's why I suggested testing for the voltage. Now, I don't know what the resistance should technically read, but I do know you shouldn't be testing for ohms on a live voltage wire. If the O2 is operating and relaying voltage to the testing terminals, it's live. I don't think you're going to get an accurate resistance reading, and you could blow a meter that way. Food for thought....

This is where I'd love to post my own expiramental findings as of late on the O2 issue with my wife's 4rnr. I've discovered the vehicle has been running too lean. Not enough, apparently, to trigger a code, but enough to cause the sensor to continue to overly enrich the fuel mix and masking the condition. Hence, we were getting poorer and poorer mileage. So, when I disconnected the O2, initially the vehicle started running better and getting better mileage, but a few days ago the vehicle started acting up under load like it was starving for fuel. I explained that a bit in ehertz's thread.

Anyway, I'm blaming the injectors because that's only thing left in the fuel delivery system that could be causing this. A few weeks ago we'd gotten some bad fuel and it really exaggerated the problem to the point the vehicle wouldn't start for about a half hour. Then, within the last few days, she started bucking under load. (this is all with the sensor disconnected) I had a feeling what was going on, so I hooked the sensor back up. Power returned and have no problems starting, but once she stalled and has idled badly a couple of times.

Needless to say, I'm in the process of working it all out. When I get the injectors rebuilt and the new Denso unit installed, I'm going to start a little thread explaining the experiment and illustrate how an O2 can mask a problem and how disconnecting it can will possibly reveal it.

Anyway, have a good night, Chef. I'm signing off for the night. Movie time......with iced latte's. Found a delicous blueberry coffee bean that makes the best latte's. Dang! You and I may have to share some culinary delights sometime. If you're interested, that is.

Last edited by thook; 07-13-2010 at 10:07 PM.
Old 07-14-2010, 02:01 PM
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Of course, anytime you want, just ask! Trust me, I'm not ignorant to the fact that, well, 99 PERCENT of all Good Chefs are EVEN BETTER THIEVES!....of recipes, that is! hahaha. No, but really, that's why, to some extent, I went into Food Science for my Degree. I wanted to understand more of foods relationship to the body, it's composition, ...and I HONESTLY have 10 TIMES the respect for food than I did before I started my 're-education' back in 97.

As far as the 02 thingymadoer? GREAT research, Thook! Seriously...and often, my research into this stuff is really just 'feeling things out'. I've tested many things by removing them, etc. Howeverrrrrrrr, there is always that 'guy' who is quick to relay a "NOOOOOO, IT WILL EXPLODE WITHOUT THAT HOOKED UP!"...which can tend to throw one for a LOOP! lol.

I've not had ANY time, at all, to get into mine, ....but I will, SOON! Yeah, "why the CAPITAL LETTERS?"....because I have a plan to do my 'Cali Loop', this summer, ...and NO GREMLIN is going to keep me from it! hahaha. Now THOSE will be some pictures to share, trust me!

Hope you had a great night, Thook, ....guys, ...

Happy HOT AS HECK DAY! lol...

Mark
Old 07-17-2010, 10:04 AM
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Hey Guys,

Ok, so here's the dealio;

I replaced the wire for the 02 with the shielded wire(Soldered and Sealed). It's now shielded, high quality wire from Signal Electronics, all the way from ECU to 02. Just a heads up for anyone who cares, lol; I got a hold of a 30 Year Toyota Master Mechanic, who now works at the headquarters in Torrance, down the road from me. He said, "That shielded wire IS IMPORTANT, ....mainly due to reducing noise from the dizzy, coil. But noise can come from MANY things in this motor, and the shielding runs all they way back, by the AFM, FAN, Alternator, etc., and isn't 'likely' to have problems from SOME of said things, but it CERTAINLY can. We found, back in those years, when they were new, BRAND NEW trucks having issues because people had moved the 02 Back or onto a header that reduced it's ground, etc. They often wouldn't throw codes 'all the time', but kept messing with the computer when they did."

He also told me this..... "People will tell you, 'Nahhh, all the ECU's are the same from 86-89', and that's NOT true. ESPECIALLY in California. California, I believe, went to a dual CAT system in many 88's and in, I believe, ALL 89's and up. This will IMMEDIATELY wreak havoc on an earlier model, because the Late 88 and 89 and up ECU's are set to read 2- 02 sensors, and the resistance and reading is different for a couple switches, AFM's, some TPS, Injectors, KNOCK SENSOR( add note below this paragraph next to *)...... But REALLY important and telling is what we found with the 02 Codes, which became obvious if we found they'd changed out the ECU to a later model on an 86 or 87. The truck will seem to run better, but in reality, it's only masking the 'real problem' by dumping more fuel. It does this because it's throwing an 02 code, causing the computer to take over and run 'pre-set' constants. It's throwing the 02 code because that ECU is looking for another 02 that is not there. Thus, 'No Signal' to ECU from 02, or "Code 21" instead of a basic "2", as the 87 and earlier should. Once it throws this code, it is running on default mode so it wont throw any 'rich or lean' codes, either....it can't, it's gone into 'safe mode'. Even though most 88's are the same, THEY DID have many models with different resistance 02's that could cause an earlier year truck to 'throw a code' for the 02, ....again, throwing it into 'safe mode' which will cause you to EAT UP fuel, burn up your CAT and possibly valves, and make it very difficult to diagnose your problems without a scope."

* I had been throwing a Knock Sensor Code the last couple of days. *


So, with the Donor ECU I have, installed, I read the 02 prongs at the ECU, and with 2,500 RPM, ......NOTHING! I figured, "It's either looking for another 02, or something else is wrong, and I just can't find it." So, I plugged back in my old ECU, drove it around, and it seemed to hesitate a lil at first, then drive alright. However, at times, it still wanted to do that 'Idle down' thing. Once I'd driven a bit, it would hold a 750-800 idle just fine. However, it DID seem to be a lil underpowered off the line in first, surging like it did before I replaced the ECU, etc., etc., etc., etc., hahahah. BUT; When idling alright, I hooked the meter back up to the ECU for 02 reading, and hit the throttle to 2,500rpm, ....and WOULDN'T YOU KNOW?.... "IT WAS fluctuating, up and down, 8 times in 10 seconds!"

I can only conclude, since I'm still LEARNING, ...lol, .... that, the Donor ECU, while it might be PERFECTLY fine, and containing the same prongs, etc., ... it's either looking for another 02 that's not there or it's not reading the 02 Signal when it's supposed to for some other reason. Also; That reading Fluctuation at the Diagnostic port is NOT always going to pinpoint the issue, BECAUSE(I think, lol), ... The Diagnostic port is in my 87, ...it's still set up to read the 02 Sensor that I have installed, right? However, if the computer is set up for a 2- 02 Sensor system, ...the ECU WILL NOT read the system properly and, well, I guess it could be a problemo, eh? (Any thoughts, Thook?)

I CAN NOT know for certain that this guy who spoke to me was 100% right on all counts. However, I have to think he's on to something, since when hooking up the old ECU again, it DID READ the 02 and I stopped throwing ANY codes.

I have another donor 87 ECU, out of a PERFECTLY running rolled Truck(yes, the one I'd gotten parts off of before...he still had it)...and I'll be checking to see if, indeed, my original ECU is 'having issues'. If not, then I'm back to square one, and I REALLY would then have to think that the donor ECU was not 'solving the problem', ...rather, it was masking it. I will start testing the 'MAIN COMPONENTS' at the ECU, like the AFM, TPS, CTS, etc., ...but considering that I found that my original ECU IS READING and showing 'verified working properly', the 02 sensor I have in......well, then I'm back to 'SQUARE 1'.

S'all good, and I'm actually glad that I've POSSIBLY figured out something more about this vehicle. I just want to be done with it so I can GET TO FRESH ICE MELT! lol, hahaha.

I'll let you know how the donor ECU works(He said no problem on returning it if it doesn't change anything.....so what have I got to lose, right?)

Thanks alot, Guys, ....sure hope to hear any input someone might have. I'm not trying to suggest that the first Donor ECU I had was bad or the wrong one(while it seems wrong, according to an actual In Shop Manual at the Dealer, that I actually read. It showed NO 21, 52, 53, etc. codes until late 88 and early 89...but it didn't expound enough on it, that's why I called the alleged Guru at Toyota Headquarters, hahaha). I'll just have to keep fishing until I figure this out.

Mark

PS> MAN IT'S BEEN HOT! hahaha.

Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 07-17-2010 at 10:10 AM.
Old 07-17-2010, 10:36 AM
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Tough call Mark. I do believe that you are on to something though. I hate to advise you to buy another ECU that you knew was correct, but it seems like it would be the only way to rule it out.
Old 07-17-2010, 10:59 AM
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I PM'd ya, but just so everyone else knows, ........... I have the other donor in hand(known 87, matching numbers, in PURRFECTLY running 22re, non-turbo 5spd.) He told me "no problem, you're a good customer and you refer ppl, ...just bring it back if it doesn't solve your problem". VERY great Yard, ....very clean, very organized, ...and HUGE! LOL. Seriously though, ...hasn't anyone else had A FEW stories with yards that jerk you around? I appreciate having these guys around, especially for hard to find stuff like mud flaps and wheel caps. hahaha.
Old 07-17-2010, 02:06 PM
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UPDATE:

Installed the newest Donor ECU, that I KNOW WAS WORKING in a perfectly running 87 Pick up that I personally took stuff out of.....

1. NO CODES, not one!
2. Idled up when cold to 1100 and held the idle up a lil longer than even the 'other donor' ECU
3. Let it idle for 10 minutes, .... NO CODES, NO DROP IN IDLE............

So far, it appears as though the first donor was possibly for either an 88 or 89, with 2- 02 Sensors(I SAID POSSIBLY, lol) As I said, I can't read the numbers on it, so I just can't know for sure why it's throwing codes and the other 2, identical numbers that I CAN read, are not throwing any codes at all, .....and actually, ...the latest one I've installed SEEMS to have solved one of the biggest problems I've been having...."Starting out smooth, then within a minute, going into closed loop--- IDLE DOWN ON IT'S OWN-NIGHTMARE! lol.

I'll drive it some more, then I'll let you know if it solved the problem, for certain guys.

Far as the lil hiccup, "pup-pupupup......................................pup-pup...........' ....it's still there, unfortunately. I think it's got to have something to do with the ignition/spark system. I'll keep digging, ...and, ...eventually, I'll figure it out.

For now? I'M PRAYING this new ECU will keep me 'good to go'(rough idle stuff, etc.) for as long as I'm alive! hahahaha.
Old 07-17-2010, 03:24 PM
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for whatever its worth, my 89 does not have 2 o2 sensors. Good to hear you got another new too you ECU and its working better. these runners can be frustrating till you get all the bugs worked out.
Old 07-17-2010, 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by ChefYota4x4
Hey Guys,

Ok, so here's the dealio;

I replaced the wire for the 02 with the shielded wire(Soldered and Sealed). It's now shielded, high quality wire from Signal Electronics, all the way from ECU to 02. Just a heads up for anyone who cares, lol; I got a hold of a 30 Year Toyota Master Mechanic, who now works at the headquarters in Torrance, down the road from me. He said, "That shielded wire IS IMPORTANT, ....mainly due to reducing noise from the dizzy, coil. But noise can come from MANY things in this motor, and the shielding runs all they way back, by the AFM, FAN, Alternator, etc., and isn't 'likely' to have problems from SOME of said things, but it CERTAINLY can. We found, back in those years, when they were new, BRAND NEW trucks having issues because people had moved the 02 Back or onto a header that reduced it's ground, etc. They often wouldn't throw codes 'all the time', but kept messing with the computer when they did."

Ah-ha! So, I wasn't totally off base suggesting a ground wire to your O2S.

He also told me this..... "People will tell you, 'Nahhh, all the ECU's are the same from 86-89', and that's NOT true. ESPECIALLY in California. California, I believe, went to a dual CAT system in many 88's and in, I believe, ALL 89's and up. This will IMMEDIATELY wreak havoc on an earlier model, because the Late 88 and 89 and up ECU's are set to read 2- 02 sensors, and the resistance and reading is different for a couple switches, AFM's, some TPS, Injectors, KNOCK SENSOR( add note below this paragraph next to *)...... But REALLY important and telling is what we found with the 02 Codes, which became obvious if we found they'd changed out the ECU to a later model on an 86 or 87. The truck will seem to run better, but in reality, it's only masking the 'real problem' by dumping more fuel. It does this because it's throwing an 02 code, causing the computer to take over and run 'pre-set' constants. It's throwing the 02 code because that ECU is looking for another 02 that is not there. Thus, 'No Signal' to ECU from 02, or "Code 21" instead of a basic "2", as the 87 and earlier should. Once it throws this code, it is running on default mode so it wont throw any 'rich or lean' codes, either....it can't, it's gone into 'safe mode'. Even though most 88's are the same, THEY DID have many models with different resistance 02's that could cause an earlier year truck to 'throw a code' for the 02, ....again, throwing it into 'safe mode' which will cause you to EAT UP fuel, burn up your CAT and possibly valves, and make it very difficult to diagnose your problems without a scope."

The ECU won't go into "safe mode" and dump more fuel if the O2 connection is lost. Safe mode occurs when the ignition signal is lost and fuel is cut. I don't remember the exact details of all that, but that part he told you is not correct. However, it will go into open loop. Open loop means the electronic fuel injection system is open and not self monitoring......like an open circuit, so to speak. In open loop, the ECU is running on it's basic programming. IOW, the injector duration has a basic amount of time they are to open under any given condition; like starting, idling, cruising, etc. But, the ECU can and will still adjust/trim the a/f on top of that based on the varying conditions of the AFM, TPS, ECT,etc. In this case, I don't see how it will "mask" anything. The ECU has no idea how rich or lean the a/f ratio is because there's no O2S feedback. So, if it's running rich, it will run rich. If lean, then it will run lean. If anything, not being in closed loop would reveal an issue. If there's a problem with the AFM, for example, you'll know it right away.

The ECU will never go into closed loop so long as there's no O2S signal detectable. Closed loop mode means the ECU is able to control it's output (injector duration and timing advance) by monitoring it's output (that being a/f ratio via oxygen content of the exhaust) which it interprets through O2 voltage feedback. Now, I'm not sure how correct that is about the truck being in open loop all the time causing that many problems....burned valves, for example. I could see it clogging the CAT, though. The main purpose of the O2S is to help keep the a/f ratio as close to 14.7 (air)-1 (fuel) for CAT efficiency. Too much fuel over time can clog the CAT. But, from what I've read, even without the O2 and in open loop mode the a/f ratio is dern near close to the ideal ratio. The CAT just happens to be rather sensitive.....in which case, yeah, over time it could cause valve damage. However, I think that would take a while. I'd say you'd be more likely to burn a valve if the injectors are clogged, or something. But, I'm not a master Toyota tech, either....

Yeah, from what I understand about rich/lean codes is that the ECU is detecting a/f ratio that's out of it's range or ability to control. But, the O2 has to be atleast operational for it to do that.......meaning there must be a voltage signal. The O2 won't generate a signal if there's an open or short in the circuit or if it's not hot enough.....around 600*. With yours being so far back from the manifold and being unheated, yours will have a tendency to cool off at prolonged idles......partcularly when cold. This will cause you to drop out of closed loop more than you should like sitting in traffic or something. You really should look into a heated one, at some point. You can tap into voltage on any circuit that would supply the right amount. I wanna say 5, but could be wrong. I've read that the mod is easy enough to do.

So, Chef, is your rig a CA model? Was the ECU a CA model? I'd wondered that in the beginning particularly since you were getting a signal at the diag. port and still throwing a "no signal" code.



* I had been throwing a Knock Sensor Code the last couple of days. *


So, with the Donor ECU I have, installed, I read the 02 prongs at the ECU, and with 2,500 RPM, ......NOTHING! I figured, "It's either looking for another 02, or something else is wrong, and I just can't find it." So, I plugged back in my old ECU, drove it around, and it seemed to hesitate a lil at first, then drive alright. However, at times, it still wanted to do that 'Idle down' thing. Once I'd driven a bit, it would hold a 750-800 idle just fine. However, it DID seem to be a lil underpowered off the line in first, surging like it did before I replaced the ECU, etc., etc., etc., etc., hahahah. BUT; When idling alright, I hooked the meter back up to the ECU for 02 reading, and hit the throttle to 2,500rpm, ....and WOULDN'T YOU KNOW?.... "IT WAS fluctuating, up and down, 8 times in 10 seconds!"

I can only conclude, since I'm still LEARNING, ...lol, .... that, the Donor ECU, while it might be PERFECTLY fine, and containing the same prongs, etc., ... it's either looking for another 02 that's not there or it's not reading the 02 Signal when it's supposed to for some other reason. Also; That reading Fluctuation at the Diagnostic port is NOT always going to pinpoint the issue, BECAUSE(I think, lol), ... The Diagnostic port is in my 87, ...it's still set up to read the 02 Sensor that I have installed, right? However, if the computer is set up for a 2- 02 Sensor system, ...the ECU WILL NOT read the system properly and, well, I guess it could be a problemo, eh? (Any thoughts, Thook?)

I'll have to get back with you on that. I've run out of time for posting.

I CAN NOT know for certain that this guy who spoke to me was 100% right on all counts. However, I have to think he's on to something, since when hooking up the old ECU again, it DID READ the 02 and I stopped throwing ANY codes.

I have another donor 87 ECU, out of a PERFECTLY running rolled Truck(yes, the one I'd gotten parts off of before...he still had it)...and I'll be checking to see if, indeed, my original ECU is 'having issues'. If not, then I'm back to square one, and I REALLY would then have to think that the donor ECU was not 'solving the problem', ...rather, it was masking it. I will start testing the 'MAIN COMPONENTS' at the ECU, like the AFM, TPS, CTS, etc., ...but considering that I found that my original ECU IS READING and showing 'verified working properly', the 02 sensor I have in......well, then I'm back to 'SQUARE 1'.

S'all good, and I'm actually glad that I've POSSIBLY figured out something more about this vehicle. I just want to be done with it so I can GET TO FRESH ICE MELT! lol, hahaha.

I'll let you know how the donor ECU works(He said no problem on returning it if it doesn't change anything.....so what have I got to lose, right?)

Thanks alot, Guys, ....sure hope to hear any input someone might have. I'm not trying to suggest that the first Donor ECU I had was bad or the wrong one(while it seems wrong, according to an actual In Shop Manual at the Dealer, that I actually read. It showed NO 21, 52, 53, etc. codes until late 88 and early 89...but it didn't expound enough on it, that's why I called the alleged Guru at Toyota Headquarters, hahaha). I'll just have to keep fishing until I figure this out.

Mark

PS> MAN IT'S BEEN HOT! hahaha.
lhjgljhgojgolug
Old 07-17-2010, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by c0ugar69
for whatever its worth, my 89 does not have 2 o2 sensors. Good to hear you got another new too you ECU and its working better. these runners can be frustrating till you get all the bugs worked out.
Thanks Cougar. Yeah, ....it's still running a lil off, to be honest, but not enough to stop me from taking a trip....or whatever, hahaha. It seems to be using less fuel, as well, btw.

If, for some reason, I wind up doing the full loop on my trip... (Angeles Crest to Kern, to 395-Olancha, to Keough Hot Springs, to Mammoth, ....WEST, to Auburn, toward Santa Cruz, Monterey Bay, Carmel, Carpenteria and then HOME, lol. ....what I'm getting at is that, somewhere in there, I guess between Auburn and Santa Cruz, I could stop in Fresno and get a bite out or something, eh? hahaha. I might not have that much time to do my LOOP trip this year, as I've spent 2 months of the spring-summer trying to diagnose, rebuild, refresh, DO CPR ON MY TRUCK! hahahaha. But if I do, I'd like to stop by the Diaz Dojo, ya know?(I've fought most of my life, soooooo, yeah, I really enjoy watching MMA and it would be cool to meet one of the Diaz'. lol)

PS> I did a poser Flex pic in my Zuk mod(not even sure I did it right, hahhahaa).
Old 07-17-2010, 08:38 PM
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Hey Thook!

Long time no speakage! lol.

Yeah, I'm not sure I got some of what he said right. To be honest, I didn't expect to speak to anyone and I wasn't really prepared. However, he was quite helpful with the 02S test at the ECU, etc.

I drove it quite a bit today, and while out, I've noticed that it's still wanting to idle down a tiny bit, at first start(when warm), but NOTHING like it was before. Once I feather the throttle once or twice, it stays at almost 800,....then drops right to 750, seemingly on it's own(like the computer is doing it? Hard to explain, sorry). It was, before, around 4-500RPM and bogging really bad(before putting in the OTHER Donor ECU...the one that kept throwing the 02 and more recently Knock Sensor codes). Funny thing though, ...the miss seems more constant now, .. it almost feels, ..no, ALMOST EXACTLY like my 70 Z28 with a CAM did. Nothing scary, just a smooth type of "chuhchuga-chuhchuga-chuhchuga"....does that make any sense, with the description I've used?...haahha. What I mean is, it's less like it was with the "Pup.............pupup..............pup....pup " kinda thing. I can still feel that there a lil, but NOTHING like it was.

Another thing I noticed, with BOTH of the other ECU's, is that, it DID NOT want to run really well when it was cooler out. Almost as if the AFM, with either of the other ECU's, didn't want to allow more air at a cooler ambient temp. Tonight, just now, heading back from eating out with the Mum's, at 68*....it ran just the same as it did earlier today, when 94* out! That seems very telling to me...... .Of what? ...Oh, yeah, I have no idea! hahah. Jk, I would think that the ATS inside the AFM has SOMETHING to do with the decision of "how much air", according to the ambient temperature that it's reading, ...right? So, if it sends that message through the ECU(the ECU only knows what these Sensors tell it, right?), ..then is it possible that with an ECU that's just, simply, no longer within specs(or MAYBE the wrong one), ..it could cause it to cut back on the air it allows to pass through the AFM? And, if it's working properly with the ECU and the rest, I would then imagine that no matter the temperature, it will adjust and then, subsequently, I'd notice that it's running the same, when either 95* or 68*?

I really appreciate and consume of the knowledge from you guys, ...I've just not had nearly enough time to read and test as many things that I'd have liked to. However, I'm still learning more, each day. For instance, ...today, when I changed my oil... I think I tore the connector right off the top of the Oil Pressure Sender, hahaha(it's hard to tell because it's surrounded by rubber...but I'm pretty sure I did). Yeah, don't do that, ok guys?lol. I should have disconnected the sender before swapping out the filter, ..but alas, I did not. Oh well, lesson learned. I think, without taking it out, the only way I'm going to verify if the connector came off/fix it, is if I cut off the rubber boot and visually inspect it/fix it that way. Stupid thing has caused me worry 3 times now, lol. HATE not being able to see my Oil pressure, ...even though I'm fairly sure it's ok.

BTW, the Oil, after 250 More miles at that point, was pretty nice. A lil amber, but very clean. I actually ran 5 quarts of cheap oil, before changing the filter and filling it with Dino again. That's how I flush it, each time I do an oil change.

PS> Any newbs? USE TOYOTA FILTERS! They ARE BETTER, period! lol. I have a K&N filter, but I'll keep that in my emergency pockets in the rear for....well, emergencies, eh? lol.

Thanks a LOT, Thook, for all that input! I'll be throwing whatever I find up here, as I learn. I'm sure it'll all be things you already know, but hey, once in a while, eh? lol. I'm not SURE if it's a matter of the other ECU looking for another 02S and, thus, throwing a code... but it sure seems telling to me that, even though this new donor, same # as the original, seems to be working, ...it's not throwing any codes at all.

Have a great night, all,

Mark

PS> I typed this at 8 and thought I'd hit "Enter", ...guess not, hahaha.
Old 07-18-2010, 01:37 PM
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Well, I FINALLY HAVE A TEMP GAUGE! HAHAHA.

What a PIECE OF CAKE! Have to be careful, just because they're old, the plastic CAN break,..... make sure you get all the bolts first, yoink the plugs before the speedo cable, ....remove the Clear plastic plate( 8 Clips, ....CAREEEEFUL, LOL), remove 4 screws holding in Oil Pressure and Temp Gauge from back of cluster, ...'carefully' pull out the front. INSTALLATION IS REVERSE OF REMOVAL! hahaha.

For something so easy, I'm REALLY STOKED to finally have a coolant temp gauge that works! Also, before buttoning it all back up(the cluster housing, etc.), screw in the cluster mounting screws and drive up the street and check that the speedo is working(Thanks Flecker, ...I remembered and did just that), then buttoned it all up and let it run for a minute..... It crawled up, steadily, NOT spaztic-like and held temp for plenty time to know 'IT FINALLY WORKS 100% OF THE TIME, ....not 2% like it was, hahaha.
Old 07-18-2010, 02:38 PM
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Just fixed my Oil Pressure Sender Connector, too! Removed the rubber boot, ...noticed it had just lost some of it's 'crimp' in the 'slide on clip', ....so yoinked rubber boot, crimped down the slide on clip inside and VOILA, "WE HAVE OIL PRESSURE, HOUSTON!" hahaha.

Sorry, I know it's no biggie, ...but actually, with a fresh motor that you've spent MUCH TIME and Cabbage on?...yeah, IT'S A BIG DEAL to know your Oil Pressure, eh? hahaha
Old 07-18-2010, 02:41 PM
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Ya mon........d'ose are goot t'ings ta have........
Old 07-18-2010, 09:12 PM
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Ohhhh, c'mon now, hahahhaa. I be irie when tings go right, mon!

Yeah, it was a GREAT feeling, today, Thook. Driving all over town, not wondering whether my pressure was good or not, nor whether I had a boiling over radiator? hahaha. Yeah, I know, not likely, ...but 'NOT LIKELY' IS 'NOT ASSURANCE', either, is it? lol.
Old 07-19-2010, 01:46 AM
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Well, it would make me uncomfortable not knowing oil pressure or temp! RPM's I can live without, but those are very convenient to say the least.

I did some more research into this O2 subject on our behalf. You might find this, on your behalf, interesting....
http://en.allexperts.com/q/Toyota-Re...eck-Engine.htm

Now, the "expert" states a "small safe mode". So, I had to go back and reread the Yota textbooks. All I could find for our older 22re's for conditions of fail safe is if the IG feedback signal is dropped, there's a problem with the AFM, or coolant temp sensor signal is lost. If IGf is lost after 11 attempts at verification, injectors are cut.....no go-go. When coolant temp sensor signal is lost, the ECU substitutes a safe operating temp value in terms of voltage. I haven't found anything that says what it does in case of AFM malfunction, but then again what I read may only apply to MAP equipped vehicles. So far, the only indications I can find for fail safe in relation to O2 signal loss is with newer vehicles equipped with two or more heated sensors. So, I think that takes you, atleast, out of that area of concern! I do kinda suspect a KS issue may trigger a fail safe condition, but I have more reading to do to confirm that. That may not necessarily be a "true" fail safe condition, as it were, more of just a function of retarding timing in the even of detonation. Don't know.......still learning the parameters of fail safe. Something I'd not known a whole heck of a lot about before. So, here I am at 4;30am reading. You owe me big time for this, bro....BAHAHAHA!


Just kidding.....seriously. It's something I've needed to learn, anyway. To summarize a bit, though......what constitutes a fail safe mode has changed over the years and from one motor design to the next. IOW, more fail safe modes have been added as vehicles get newer with more sophisticated electronics and, still, there will be differences from one design to the next. So, the master tech wasn't totally offbase, but probably giving you more info than you needed in relation to your particular vehicle and circumstance, so to speak.

Last edited by thook; 07-19-2010 at 01:48 AM.
Old 07-19-2010, 01:57 AM
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Originally Posted by ChefYota4x4
Ohhhh, c'mon now, hahahhaa. I be irie when tings go right, mon!
Oh yeah...haha. I posted like that because every once in a while this Jamaican fellow comes into the nutrition store I work at to buy his multivitamin. I turned him on to this really good one and that's all he'll get now. Drives nearly 1.5hrs just to get them. It's all good; he buys a huge bottle and I give him a nice discount. It's a good vibe exchange. Anyway, yesteraday he came in before I posted that. Man.... I really have to relax my brain to understand what he's saying because has an accent so thick you bust a tank in half. I get better everytime he comes in, but I still only understand about half of what he says....lol! During those moments I just smile and say,"Uh-huh....sure, sure". Hahahaha.....I wonder if even has a clue. We're just accustomed to hearing english words spoken in certain ways. Maybe if I took some "sacrament" I'd completely understand......Jah, mon.
Old 07-19-2010, 11:35 AM
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HAHAHA. I used to work with two guys, one from Jamaica and one from Ghana, Africa...... I could understand each of their English better than they could each others! hahahaha. The Jamaicans, ...you know how they reverse the H's and certain vowels? The Ghana Dude, George, would get SO MAD at the Jamaican, saying, "Can't you learn-ed yet to speak English Propalee, Lenworth???!!!???" hahaha. I just giggled and then Lenworth would say, " Ello George, ..... Hue want soum Am and Heggs? Meebie some Horange Juice has well?" hahahahahaha. Lenworth(the Jamaican), would sometimes get really mean though.... saying things like, "hoh, old on now, lemme get dis straight mon, ...Hyou need may to speak in grunts and clicks, ey mon?" EEEEEEEEK , LOL. They never came to blows, thank goodness, ...I'da had to have jumped in to break it up, lol.

Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 07-20-2010 at 02:41 PM.


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