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87 4Runner 22RE troubleshooting help needed

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Old 06-30-2010, 11:07 AM
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Thanks, HighLux! Really appreciate that, and I'm SO GLAD this thread has/will be useful to someone with any number of issues! lol.

Nice pup, btw!
Old 06-30-2010, 11:36 AM
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PS> Just a useless tangent, hahaha;

Last night, when getting ready to crash, I was eating some Sorbet I made from my Mulberries......CRUNCH, ...I bit right through the end of my tongue! Yep, BIG TIME 'HOLY CRAPOLI!'....bled like a son of a biscuit, and yet...IT'S ALREADY HEALING! LOL. Dang the tongue heals fast. I'd post a pic but I think that's just gonna make people sick, hahahah.
Old 06-30-2010, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by ChefYota4x4
Hahaha, Hey Alan,

Nah, not had time to mess with anything. I've hopped on and off here when in the kitchen(laptop is always on, lol), but as far as workin on the rig, let alone driving? lol...However, I did start it, today, and it idled up when cold and then down to about 750 and held there. So, not sure what was wrong last night but IT COULD be telling that it was much cooler when it was doing it. VERY possible that it's the AFM. I'm going to read it again, just to be sure, using an idea I have to chill the Air flow-Temp sensor(the cone).

Yeah, I've moved forward, just that miss, it's just got me baffled. I'm trying to find time tomorrow to set the timing and a couple other checks, but still haven't heard any ideas on how I'm going to strip back that insulation on the 02 shielded wire and solder it with so lil exposed. I guess I'll have to peel back the harness, no biggie I suppose. I'm going to track it back anyhow, near the firewall to the ECU, just to see if it's messed up anywhere along the way. But NO WAY, if I don't have to, am I tearing that all out from the radiator well and so forth, hahaha.

Glad you're doing better with yours, Alan.

Mark
If it's any consolation, I have the O2 on my '86 spliced......with a wire nut!!....for now. Doesn't seem to be giving me any problems.....

Last edited by thook; 06-30-2010 at 05:32 PM.
Old 06-30-2010, 05:57 PM
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Yeah, ...hmmmm, well, I'm not sure my O2 is the problem. But is sure IS the Code, haha. I haven't even had time to reset the timing, but I'm not using it for now, so s'all good, lol.

I'm going to try and see, tomorrow, if I have time; When I start it and don't touch the throttle....does it wind up missing, or is it missing due to the O2 reading, thus, the Puter throws things back out of whack, etc., ...know what I'm saying? I'm pretty sure it will miss, anyhow...and I'm still waiting for that info Thook, AND NO, I'M NOT RUSHING YOU, hahaha. Really, I wouldn't have time to check it for a couple days anyway, even if you did post some stuff. But anyhow, ...I just want to see, because, even after it's idled down(IACV closed), it doesn't miss at all that I remember. Of course, it's still warming up, so maybe it's got something to do with closed loop? I'll be getting into it this weekend, as they're busy every day from friday, and I don't have to cook! hahaha. Might head to the top of the mountain for the Fireworks thingy...Up here, you can see about 260degress of LA shows, all going off around the same time. I hate trying to park at them, so I watch them from up there and try to get pics if it's not foggy, lol.

Yours is spliced, ...but is it crimped or soldered? Not sure that would screw me so bad, being crimped, but I AM going to replace it anyhow...want it done RIGHT. Besides, Flecker might sneak up and beat me with a rubber hose if I don't do that soon! lol jk, jk.
Old 06-30-2010, 06:22 PM
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You know what a wire nut is, right? It's neither crimped or soldered. It's twisted together with a wire nut.

Anyway, seems once again I've missed something along the way. Where is it that you have very little wire exposed for the O2? At the ECU? I read the post (the one I quoted) and thought you might be having concerns over the splice itself not being shielded. My bad, there.

The ECU will not go into closed loop until the engine is completely warm. But, it also will not go into closed loop at starting. So, it's not missing because of the sensor. In fact, my wife's 4rnr is running without an O2 at the moment without issue. It's even getting better mileage than before when the Botcshed O2 was hooked up.........or did I already tell you that story?

So, what's your idea on testing the IAT sensor?
Old 06-30-2010, 07:42 PM
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Hey Thook,

Actually, I do want to replace the wire with shielded, ....after all, it came that way, stock, right? Gotcha on the wire-nut.

Also, I posted a pic of the amount of wire I have to work with, page back I believe. I explained there. Sorry I have to run......Far as the IAT.....????? Remind me?
Old 07-01-2010, 06:57 AM
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What your calling the airflow temp sensor the book calls intake air temp...IAT. No matter we all know what you're talking about, eh?

Okay..I'll look for the pic. Thanks.
Old 07-01-2010, 07:00 AM
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Oh right........that one. You only have one wire going to your O2, right?
Old 07-01-2010, 09:41 AM
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Hey Thook,

Sorry, I'd forgotten I mentioned the AFM ambient temp cone thingymadoer, .....hahaha. And yes, I have a single wire going to the O2. Funny thing is, it was always one wire on the harness side, as the PO had, for some reason, peeled back the shielding and taped it to the insulation for the inner wire. I've since cut it where you can see in the pic, spliced in the wire provided by LCE....., I don't remember the wire on the harness side to the connector being cut previously to my cut, so I'm really not sure why he peeled back the shielding. Either way, not sure how you feel, Thook, but I don't know how I can peel back that shielded wire insulation enough, and then cut back the other wire in order to have enough shielded wire from the harness to lay over the other shielded wire with some dielectric, solder the inner wire, pull over heat shrink, lay shielded wires over each other, then the second heat shrink....not without peeling back the harness so I can work above the fender well.

Also, I know you are aware, Thook, but for those who are not; The Wiring from the OEM O2 Sensor, coming out the top of sensor going to connector?...It's still shielded from the factory, because they're not building it according to the plans for one's header. Rather, they have enough wire on it to JUST reach the connector in the harness, ....which yes, is supposed to be shielded.

I know you're not having a problem, Thook,....Heck, I'm not sure I"m having one due to the wiring I've installed either. Just laying out where I'm at, ya know? And actually, a recap; I did test the O2 at the Diagnostic Port like a Toyota Mechanic told me to.... It read as he said it should, "Between 300-600ohm, fluctuating every second....in other words, it should jump back and forth 10 times in 10 seconds." It did just that. So, I'm not sure if that would mean I have an issue with my ECU on that end, or what?

Sorry, I'm not really great with explaining electronics issues. I'm learning, but still SHORT on the simple descriptions.
Old 07-01-2010, 11:56 AM
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Chef, Is this thing good to go er what???? Put some duct tape on it and call it good jezus haha jk man but hope you're gettin closer!!!
Old 07-01-2010, 05:51 PM
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I posted to your older thread just aminute ago, so I copied and pasted to this one to stay current. I also edited out the portion about the TPS. I now see that you have "checked and rechecked it." May this be a lesson for all to never give up!
Well, I see I am not the only one having problems. Chef I wish I could help, but since you are the one helping me and giving me advice to get my rig going I am probably not much help. For everyone else...this guy rocks! Dudes like Chef make Yotatech!
Old 07-01-2010, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by ChefYota4x4
Hey Thook,

Sorry, I'd forgotten I mentioned the AFM ambient temp cone thingymadoer, .....hahaha. And yes, I have a single wire going to the O2. Funny thing is, it was always one wire on the harness side, as the PO had, for some reason, peeled back the shielding and taped it to the insulation for the inner wire. I've since cut it where you can see in the pic, spliced in the wire provided by LCE....., I don't remember the wire on the harness side to the connector being cut previously to my cut, so I'm really not sure why he peeled back the shielding. Either way, not sure how you feel, Thook, but I don't know how I can peel back that shielded wire insulation enough, and then cut back the other wire in order to have enough shielded wire from the harness to lay over the other shielded wire with some dielectric, solder the inner wire, pull over heat shrink, lay shielded wires over each other, then the second heat shrink....not without peeling back the harness so I can work above the fender well.

Also, I know you are aware, Thook, but for those who are not; The Wiring from the OEM O2 Sensor, coming out the top of sensor going to connector?...It's still shielded from the factory, because they're not building it according to the plans for one's header. Rather, they have enough wire on it to JUST reach the connector in the harness, ....which yes, is supposed to be shielded.

I know you're not having a problem, Thook,....Heck, I'm not sure I"m having one due to the wiring I've installed either. Just laying out where I'm at, ya know? And actually, a recap; I did test the O2 at the Diagnostic Port like a Toyota Mechanic told me to.... It read as he said it should, "Between 300-600ohm, fluctuating every second....in other words, it should jump back and forth 10 times in 10 seconds." It did just that. So, I'm not sure if that would mean I have an issue with my ECU on that end, or what?

Sorry, I'm not really great with explaining electronics issues. I'm learning, but still SHORT on the simple descriptions.
It's not escaped me that the meter reading you're getting is behaving as the technician suggested it should. What a conundrum, eh? Have you checked the resistance at the ECU terminal on the ECU? I don't know why you'd be getting a code if, in fact, the ECU's reading the signal. I guess I'll have to think on that one and look at some diagram's. I'm not sure if having the splice shielded is all that important, though. I do wonder about the sensor being so far away from the manifold and not being heated, as well. I'll get back with you on it........as well as the other info. Seems we're all getting swamped with some busyness, lately.
Old 07-01-2010, 08:39 PM
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Thanks Joe, Hertz(NO< YOU ROCK!>lol), and Thook,

I've been going since 7am, ...just finished, and man, it was a bit of a warm one(I guess standing over grills in the sun doesn't help, eh? hahaha). Anyway, again, I've not had the time, but as I said before, I'll have all day Saturday and Sunday...so if anyone has a test or two I can do on "the mysterious miss" or the "O2 code"....heck, I'd be very grateful! lol. See the exclamation point<<<??? THAT'S HOW GRATEFUL! hahaha.

Thanks for checking in, guys, and I PROMISE, JOE, ...it's really running pretty well. It's just, you know, a couple grand later and starting fresh with an 'eat off me' motor.....yeah, not so down with the 'just drive it till it blows up' ideology, hehehehe. Plus, I'd be done with a couple things that I then could eliminate from the "P.O.E." checklist, but I've just not had free time lately. I've used up so much of it just building the thing...I guess now I'll have to do it 'when I can', ya know?

Thanks, Thook, ...yeah, any ideas you get I'll try asap after reading, ....Maybe Saturday?

BTW, I'm just learning, Hertz, but thanks. I feel good knowing that maybe I've helped!

Chef MWM, C.E.C., ...OUTIE, lol.
Old 07-03-2010, 02:22 PM
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Thanks, Thook, on the CSI PDF! on Alan's thread....'SAVED', lol.

I'm going to have to work, after all, tomorrow! Lil ticked(I'm salary, so no, it doesn't help me to get more hours, hahaha)....ticked because I'd planned on running through a list(plus everything else you or flecker or anyone else suggests) today and tomorrow....but alas, I'M A BLOCK PARTY CHEF FOR 400 PEOPLE, ......and as you can guess, I'll be prepping and expediting throughout tonight and tomorrow till the evening.

I really need to get this squared away and running TEET'S, lol, ...otherwise, I'll be missing another upcoming wilderness voyage!Grrrrrr~!

I want to add a lil something I've noticed(aside from the o2 code and miss), ..... When sitting at idle at a light the other day for 30 MINUTES(light was busted), I noticed, my truck eventually idled down to about 600 and was pretty chunky. I REALLY NEED TO SQUARE THIS THING AWAY, and if I can't figure it out by next weeks end(Sunday), I'll have to take it to a Guru and let him have it for a couple days(maybe 3 he said). I don't mind at this point, since I've really put 1000% effort into solving what seems to be a VERY TRICKY TICK! ...However, I'd LOVE to solve it myself, as I KNOW it would lead to more knowledge as I go through and diagnose and eliminate things.

SO, next week, I will be;

1. Verifying Brake Booster Operation with the new one I have(I can return it if it solves nothing or the one I have is in fact ok)
2. Getting the wiring to the O2 DONE, HOPEFULLY SOLID and proper!(Still would like some guidance through that if possible)
3. Trying to verify WHY I HAVE THIS FRIGGEN CODE, if I can't solve it with the rewire
4. First thing on the list, actually.....Reset Timing to 5*-8*(it seems to bounce around a lil from 5-8)
5. WHATEVER THE HECK ELSE I CAN THINK OF! For example; I might be taking in this Dizzy to have someone verify it once and for all
6. Re-test the Coil/Secondary and Ignitor

I'm fairly certain, through all the hard work Flecker did and helped me to do, ....I can rule out the plugs, Cap, Rotor, etc., etc., etc.,...You know, the basics that are easily and sometimes more difficultly verified/eliminated. I have ok'd some time next week to do all these things, and while I have a couple parties on the side(trying to save for said trip)...I should have plenty of time to check whatever I need to!

It's do or die time, fella's, ....and I'd really appreciate some help to re-focus, P.O.E. things and maybe some fresh ideas.

PS> I also was thinking of a smoke test, to eliminate/verify the 'vacuum leak' theory, once and for all.
Old 07-04-2010, 09:22 AM
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Hey Guys;

Ok, FLECKER, ....... thought I'd mention you, first, since you reminded me, hahaha.....

I rechecked the timing, this morning,......It was at the edge of the Harmonic Tab.... Around 14*! lol. And yet, like you said, NO PINGING, ...very strange. So, I reset it at around 7*(it has a mild cam and EVERY 22re I've had ran better a lil advanced from 5*). It's not jumping around as much as it was(remember that, Flecker? Like 3* back and forth?)

So, while I had it warmed up in preparation for the timing adjustment, ...I drove it around. It seems to have a lil less off the line(when engaging the clutch from 0mph) but is fine after around 5mph. It could be the cam, header and 2.25" exhaust and CAT to the back that's costing me a lil off the line, ....right? It's nothing HUGE, but the one thing I DID notice, Flecker, .....I had to back out the Idle/Air screw again, just to keep the idle at 750-800. About a full turn and a half. Then, I drove it to the 110Frwy and got on the freeway for the first time. One thing I DID LIKE, I must say, is that it got up to 60 in 3rd, fairly quickly, and then 75 in 4th, no problem, then was at 85 in 5th and, to be honest, seemed to be capable of more. However, ...you know the CHP station is at Carson, lol(plus, well, DIDN'T WANT TO BLOW MY MOTOR! LOL) ....so yeah, I backed off and turned back and got on the freeway again. Seemed great on the freeway-- No hesitation, etc.

This time, when stopping at the lights, ......IT'S GOING, IN IDLE, FROM WHERE I'D SET IT, ....BACK TO 900 OR SO AGAIN! If I tap the throttle, press the brake, it sometimes would dive down to 750-800. But, any feathering of the throttle and it seems to come up to 900 or so and want to stay there.

ALSO, ....when I wound up at 900rpm or so, like said, .....If I killed the motor, restarted it, as usual, the O2 code was gone(until I took off again, lol), but alsooooooo, ...the idle was back down to 780-800 and seemed to stay there alright. WTH??? LOL.

One last thing is, ....I think I'm GUZZLING gas. I really need to fill it one more time, mark the mileage and see how quickly it's using it. I believe my tank is 17.4 Gallons, ....(think I'll call mikey and ask him to use my vin to find out for sure). What's the best method for measuring mileage? I can't find any leaks, but it appears that I'm at around 100 Miles out of 1/2 a tank! Yes, I'm idling, TONS, and running around the city for the most part.....Flecker knows, it's TONS of crazy hills around here where I am. BUT STILL! lol.

Any thoughts, guys?

PS> HAPPY 4TH OF JULY! OOOH RAHHHH!

PSS> No, Thook, ...I have not checked the O2 readings at the ECU....I'll have to look into how to do so. Is that diagnostic port able to read the O2 but then the ECU might not? I only had time to do the timing and test drive, this morning, ...so we'll see.
Old 07-04-2010, 09:52 AM
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I really don't know, Chef. That's why I said I'd need to look at some diagrams.....diagrams of how the circuit runs. I know what purpose the O2 serves and how it effects things, but I've never look into how it all connects together. I'll see about finding a diagram 'bout now.

Later
Old 07-04-2010, 09:58 AM
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Ok....Im in this thread for the count....but Im not gonna read back forever.

Have you adjusted the valves recently?
Changed to a know good ecu?


Is there a video clip of the idle or a ride?
Old 07-04-2010, 10:00 AM
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Quick post. Found this for you....

http://autoshop101.com/forms/h5.pdf
Old 07-04-2010, 10:16 AM
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Sounds like the faulty o2 code your getting could be causing your motor to run rich such gas and up the idle further than you want it. If i recall correctly you replaced it right? Maybe take it off and bench test it. Might want to look it up but as far as i know you can bech test it with a ohm meter and a map gas torch. Definately double check what i said on that as i'm only recalling previously read info and i would rather you do it right as opposed to just shooting from the hip. I think i saw a demonstration on youtube. does the exhaust smell like gas?
Old 07-04-2010, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by HighLux
Ok....Im in this thread for the count....but Im not gonna read back forever.

Have you adjusted the valves recently?
Changed to a know good ecu?


Is there a video clip of the idle or a ride?
Hey Lux, ...Yeah, there's a Video or 10, lol. Just check back through the pages and you'll see them. I've not done one since the timing setting, but the valves were adjusted and there is a video since then.

Originally Posted by thook
Quick post. Found this for you....

http://autoshop101.com/forms/h5.pdf
THANKS, THOOK! I'll read into that asap!

Originally Posted by mightymouse
Sounds like the faulty o2 code your getting could be causing your motor to run rich such gas and up the idle further than you want it. If i recall correctly you replaced it right? Maybe take it off and bench test it. Might want to look it up but as far as i know you can bech test it with a ohm meter and a map gas torch. Definately double check what i said on that as i'm only recalling previously read info and i would rather you do it right as opposed to just shooting from the hip. I think i saw a demonstration on youtube. does the exhaust smell like gas?
Thanks Mouse. I'm pretty sure Thook has helped me find that it's a "No Signal from O2" issue. I did an O2 check at the diagnostic port and it did what the Dealership Master Mechanic said it should....But as thook was saying, that doesn't verify the ECU is reading it. The ECU is a replacement, because with the other one, I had NO CODES, and it would eventually idle down to 400-500 in closed loop and want to die. Replaced it with a donor ECU and it seemed to smooth out, considerably. Some guru's think that it might not have anything to do with my original ECU being bad...but DANG if it didn't make it run REALLY well, in comparison. I would also consider that SOMETHING, within the system, is causing a flood of fuel that might be setting off the O2. However, .....my O2 code comes RIGHT AWAY, even when cold, but only if I give it throttle to above 2000 or so. Strange, because I thought the O2 didn't come into play until it was warm, #1, and #2, ....above 2000rpm(so that part might be normal). Even if it's fully warm, ...if I restart it, leave it at idle......it throws no code! Again, first stomp on the throttle and it's throwing the code.

THANKS, SO MUCH, GUYS, for checking in, even on a holiday! GRATEFUL!

Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 07-04-2010 at 10:32 AM.


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