ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

No, they're not cheap, Dewit, ...you're correct! lol. However, I'm only looking, tomorrow! Just want to verify on a new one how far open that valve is supposed to be when cold. I also did what I'd said, above, with the TBody swap and the new(Free) TPS that's on there. It's adjusted right on, from triple checking it to death, ...but I'm not bothering installing the TBody again until I verify/possibly replace the IACV(it's a PITA to get out of there, otherwise).

We'll see, I suppose. I'm pretty sure Flecker got the valves right on. Not too tight and not too loose. To specs, so to speak.

Sorry bout your EGR. I'm going to replace my Modulator with the free one I got at the yard the other day. It's LITERALLY a couple months old(called my buddy at the Toy dealer, he looked up the # and said it's the latest 'model' or whatever).....Don't think I have an issue with the EGR Modulator though... I also have what seemed to be 2 Working VSV's(front and rear) and I'm reading up on those, but more concerned about the rear(FPR VSV). The front can wait, if I need it, for when I charge/check my AC, finally! lol. Getting warm, so I'ma need that soon, but 'must----get---rig----purring better---FIRST! lol. Also have a working FPR....so that's on the list as well if I can't verify the other one with a Fuel Pressure test.

BTW, I'm not just throwing parts at this thing, guys, honest! lol... Ask Flecker how deep we got into this thing and wound up STILL with some head scratchers. I'm tryin, ....and I'll keep trying, NO DOUBT!

Thanks for Checkin in, Dewit.

Mark

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

One more question I couldn't find an answer to.

If I'm fairly certain I have NO really troubling vacuum leaks......is it telling of the booster that when I press over and over on the brake that the idle drops down and starts bogging pretty bad? I'm replacing it to see, and I can still return it if it's not the ticket...but just curious about that, ....never had a car or truck do that.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

UPDATE:

Idle-up-cold problem, ....SOLVED!

IACV WAS, in fact, heading south.(my original one). The donor was junk but was free, so no biggie. I had the dealership guy I know put mine on this thing and in 30 seconds...."it's no good, brother". He said, and now that I understand how they work fairly well, I see what he's saying in, "Ok, the thing is, these arms inside that swing over to closed as the bimetalic heater valve heats up?....THEY SIMPLY WEAR OUT at about 145K usually. They can go longer, but not usually. The arm that's supposed to hold it 'FURTHER' open than yours is, wears out on the inner expansion area, ...thus, making it pretty much useless, even if it's open a tiny bit, ...BECAUSE, it only takes about 10 seconds for coolant to reach 86 degrees(because it has a sensitive heater-thingy in there), which is where it starts it's first stage-down(closing a lil)...and by then yours is closed, completely, and never really idled up much to begin with, ....then further and further till within about 2 minutes, BRAND NEW, it will close fully and voila, whatever your idle is at is where it should stay".

Mine idled up to 1300, within 12 seconds(I think the ECU was re-adjusting to the new unit). Then, within about 2 minutes, it was closed and running about 600RPM, ..so I adjusted it out to 750 and it seems to be staying there, ...UNTIL it warms up REALLY warm and then it starts wanting to ride up around 800-850. GRRR, lol. I pressed back on the linkage and it's idling down to 750 and staying there, sooooooooooo, ....Even with this new Throttle Body and the newly adjusted, NEW, TPS on there, ...it's still wanting to idle up but not as bad.

My hiccup is still there, mildly, but since installing this IACV this morning, it never really idled "too chunky", so that's good. I think the original was not only not fully open, but neither was it fully closing 100%. (he showed me how to home test it, safely,...I'll share later with some pics).

I'm also still throwing the O2 code, even when cold, if I rev it up a bit.(However, if I kill the motor, then restart, it will not be there till I rev up the motor again). He said, "Double check to see if it's black as coal in there. Could be it was running so rich or crappy for enough time to ruin it. If it's black and you can exchange for a new one, ...try it, and also try to double check for a good body ground, ...that WILL cause a code that's hard to figure out if you don't eliminate it, especially with your header set up, where it's relocated, etc."

So, that's where I'm at, guys.... He also shared a test for the booster, with spraying TB cleaner around the ring and backing, to check for leaks, ....but he said it's probably easier to just swap out the one i can return if it doesn't work.

Any more ideas on why mine is missing a lil and throwing an O2 Code?

Lumpy

Well you can test the O2 with a torch and ohm meter...I'd go that route before swapping it about. Checking the grounds is a good thing as well as removing the + term for a bit to reset the ECU. Get it all back to 0 then have at it.

I think you'll find the code culprit right quick like as well as the hiccup.

yotarob2005

Well Mark I guess another problem bites the dust! Knocking them down one at a time. Try Lumpy's idea & I bet you will have a perfectlly running 4runner soon.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Thanks Lumpy,

Ok, well, ...... I did a test the dealer said, a few days ago, where I connected my positive side of the ohm meter into the Diagnostic O2 port, then the ground of the meter to a good ground, ....it seemed to work fine, dropping up and down from 300-600 or so every second. I held that test for about 30 seconds....it was pretty consistent and they told me, "yeah, that's a good sign that the O2 is good and that, well, you're probably throwing a code from O2 due to being too rich or lean". He then asked me, "whats the code?" I said "21, .....2 flashes, pause, then one", he said, ....Hmmm, I'll have to double check, but I believe 21 is lean and 25 is rich."

I have to wait for him to call me back. If I'm lean, ....hmmmm, then maybe the FPR is putting too much pressure against the Fuel Pump due to the VSV not working? I'll try that VSV next, then the FPR. Roger(4Crawler) said that removing the vacuum to the FPR should make it run a lil chunkier at warmed up and then smooth out when re-attaching it. Here's what mine does.....

1. When pulling the vsv line to the FPR( at the FPR ), the idle goes up and seems a lil smoother.
2. When reattaching the line to the FPR, it drops back down and gets a lil more silly with the missing(HOWEVER, can't be sure that's so telling of the miss because, well, when you dump fuel in it and the idle is increased like that, .....It's harder to tell if it's just less obvious or IF IT IS part of the problem.)
3. I CAN hear the FPR ticking away when I listen to it.....but that doesn't mean that it's possibly staying too closed(maybe due to the VSV not doing it's job?, etc.)....or if it's just something else, all together, .....you know, like the O2 playing tricks on me and only working when I check it? HAHAHAHAHA

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Well, I drove around for a healthy 30 minutes, ....seemed to run pretty well, even maintaining a 750-800 idle, when I pulled in the Garage and sat for a bit.

Still have the lil miss and O2 Code, but I'm pretty much maxed out on the time I can spend with her today..... Party tonight to do and then heading out with my Cousins son who's visiting from AZ. He's got down syndrome, and WOW what a great kid with great attitude! He loves me big time and is leaving home for AZ on Saturday...so he called me and said, "Uncle Mark, .......please take me to see Knight and Day tonight?????" hahaha. I must oblige!

I'm starting to trip on one thing here, ...... I parked and it sure as heck looks like a drop of oil again on the ground!!!! Grrrrrrr, lol. We'll see. I'll wait till it's cool in the morning and see if it turned out again. If so, .....guess it's time to try some locktite or something on there, eh? Any ideas on that, if it is in fact leaking again?

Thanks guys,

Mark

barrel roll

I figure I might as well piggy back - is it possible to install the harmonic balancer too deep? I put it on, and started wrenching down on it, and got it to a point where I could no longer turn over the motor with the ratchet on the crank bolt. I know the service manual says slide it on and torque to 116 ft lbs.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey there, BR,

Well, I've never heard of it being within torque and not turning over. Excuse the stupid question, but, ....is it totally locked up, and with breaker bar, not turning over? Plugs out?(having them in on a fresh build can make it TOIGHT and hard to turn over by hand, but not so hard that it just wont turn, ....hmmmmm. Is it possible that his COG Key got cocked somehow? Even then, if that's even possible, lol, ...I would think it would still turn over.

Personally, BR, I would start a thread, just because this has become such a treasure of a 'WHAT THE HECK IS WRONG WITH CHEF'S TRUCK?' type of thread, lol. Just post is as "Can't Turn over Crank by hand"...and you seem very apt from the other stuff I've read, ....so I know it's not on backwards, lol, jk...(not sure that's even possible, either, hahha....Just being silly, sorry, lol)

Alan's Classic

Nice progress. I'm not saying much, but I am watching

flecker

Glad you solved the idle up issue Man!

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Thanks, Alan, Flecker, ..........

I gotta tell ya, guys, ...WHAT A GREAT(BUT VERY CAUTIOUS, LOL) FEELING TO BE CLOSE! I know, it's always gonna have a bug or kink that'll need to be worked out....but this is crucial, with a new motor, getting it all right. I really want to restore this thing and it wont take TOO much, but it's gonna be a bit more work.....and DANG if these lil gremlins don't keep poppin up here and there! lol. Not much more that could go wrong, other than the harness itself. Hopefully, trying the booster will tell me something about the idling down when depressing the brake at a light. I'd be even happier if it took away some of the "pup-pupupup", ya know? lol

I've had over 40 Vehicles, many of them Cherry Hot Rods, ....and for some reason, THIS THING, seriously...they just grow on you like a good friend! lol. Plus, heck, they're practical. I had a dream last night, no kidding, that I went and bought a 94 LX 5.0 Stang, 5spd., stock, and was lookin at it like "hmmmmm, I'ma trick you ut, girl!" hahaha. Don't think I wanna take that one right now! Just enjoy the summer in the 4Runner.

BTW, .....I didn't forget my promise of some KICK ARSE cookies for those who guessed. I believe it was lives4crawlin, mightymouse and flecker that guessed ECU...and it's looks as though that was my primary problem. Need Addy's(except for Flecker, lol, he can pick em up or I'll drop em off! hahaha....Of courseeeeee, he might just want some of my Gourmet Dark Chocolate Covered Caramels, hahaha).

Flecker, ....... did you ever find out whether that test we did on the VSV was indeed revealing of it being potentially bad? I'ma try the other one out...but, I mean, ....it just might be bad as well, hahahaha. Ya know? I'll read up some more, but this stupid book is vague.

Thanks for checking in, Guys!

Mark

thook

21 is main O2 sensor signal fault
25 is lean
26 is rich

Too much fuel pressure would cause a rich condition. Too little causes a lean condition.

Remember what I said in Alan's thread about the VSV? It's the fuel pressure up switching valve. It opens up or is only energized to function during hot engine cranking and for up to two minutes after the engine is running. So, the VSV probably doesn't have anything to do with your issue. IOW, since the VSV isn't operational most of the time, it has little to do with how the vehicle is operating most of the time and the problems your seeing. Unless, the VSV is constantly staying open.... which would keep the fuel pressure up and therefore too high under the conditions where the VSV is not needed. But, that would cause a rich running condition and not lean.

Also, usually no change in the way the engine runs when you unhook the vac line to the FPR indicates a bad regulator. But, you saw a change. I think there's something else going on. I could be wrong, but when you unhooked the line, the fuel pressure is supposed to go up. Since it ran worse when you hooked it back up, I think it means you have a fuel delivery issue. Not getting enough. Maybe not enough voltage to the pump, the pump is weak...I dunno. I don't remember everything you've done and I'm too tired to reread everything....haha!

BTW, it seems you've resolved the AAV issue? I guess you don't need the info I said I'd post up? I found the links talking about the AAV I told you about. If you still want to read them, let me know.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Thanks Thook, I'm wiped out, too, lol. Really appreciate you taking the time. I'm not sure whether I'm rich or lean. No smoke, AT ALL, and at times, you can almost breathe right off the pipe, others, it's a bit stinky, lol. If you have any thoughts on what tests I should run, how, etc., ....sling em over, I'll do them and post the results, k?

flecker

The teste we peformed on the VSV's were by the book. Can't really confirm more or less other than what the book was calling for. All I know is that the VSV with 12V is supposed to open, without it should close.

Both failed.

The FPR one STAYED OPEN.... and the AC one Stayed closed.

The old puff and blow test never fails!

Could try it with the others before you put them on to be sure though.

Edit: Oh good gawd please!!!! MORE CHOCOLATE! That stuff was insanely gooooooooooood!

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Doing the Luxe-Bel Air, today, so I'm off at 11:30....thus, no time to mess with the beast, lol. ..... http://www.luxehotelsunsetblvd.com/ ....'SIGH'....DUTY CALLS! hahahaha

Trust me Flecker, I wasn't doubting ya, lol. I just thought you'd said you were gonna go home and read something about...... to be honest, I can't even remember any more~! hahahaha. I read the Brake Booster Section and, while it seems straight forward, I'm not in possession of a micrometer or modeling clay, lol, etc.... so gotta borrow one to get the setting right, then, gotta bleed the brakes afterward.

I'll rethink/regroup/set strategy when I get back, around 3 or 4pm.

Flecker, "Oh good gawd please!!!! MORE CHOCOLATE! That stuff was insanely gooooooooooood!"... THEY ARE GOOD, AINT THEY? LOL....."Check, done" lol. I do MANY different types, ...but let's stick with what passed the "Explosive pockets of flavor" test, eh? hahaha.

Anyone out there, please, could you warm up your truck and try something for me? Press on the brake a few times, firmly(about 5 within 3 seconds) and tell me if the idle drops 200rpm, causing the motor to bog out a lil???? I'd really appreciate it. I can't seem to get an answer on whether that should happen or not...but my guess is NO, lol.

BBl8r, t8rs! Thanks again for sticking with me.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

PS> Thook, I was trying hit edit and add more last night, but Yotatech froze up and wouldn't load.

I was going to ask, "21- main O2 Sensor signal fault" ??? I'm guessing this is meaning the ECU is not reading it properly, or it(the o2) is setting off the ECU for some reason other than being Rich or Lean...something more crucial? Soon as I get it up to 2000rpm, ...it's "code for O2" time. lol. Any thoughts, guys?

thook

Code 21 means, in a nutshell, the ECU isn't getting a signal or either a correct signal from it. But, I'm not sure if that means heater circuit or return signal or both. The sources I have at my disposal don't specify. My best advice is to simply check both. Why not, eh? Hahaha....it's not like it's anymore complicated than what you've already done.....BAHAHAHA! <<<<that's a "my vehicle is throwing me off my rocker" laugh and "I want meds!". I've been there. And, if you don't have meds, chocolate works!!!!

Here's the thread on AAV I mentioned. Or, one of them anyway. I do believe it contains all info you might need, though.....

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ve-spec-80123/

thook

Hey Mark, I found this website on checking fuel issues in various ways....more ways than I really knew......

http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/us60324.htm

Damn good read!

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Thook, ....the funny thing is, no matter how cold or hot my truck is,....if I leave the idle at 750, even for 20 minutes, ....NO CODE, period! lol. THE SECOND I tap the gas beyond 1500 or so when warm or 2000 when cold...."DOINK" engine light arrives.

I've been at it(Food, not Toyota!lol) since 6:15am and I'm just now sitting down for the first time(out of the kitchen clothes, lol), .....and I have about 20 minutes left of cleaning. I also knocked out Fleckers Dark Chocolate Covered Heavy Cream Caramels....He's been AN INCREDIBLE, hands on help to me! Can't express how grateful I was that someone like him came along and helped me....Don't worry, Flecker ,....I had an order already, and thought "PERFECT, I can give Flecker some Chocolaty Thanks!"(Yes, Chocolaty IS a Word! lol) Of course, ....it also helped, emotionally, to see him stumped a bit after 10 hours straight the first day! lol...... But like me, he's not a quitter, so back he came with that ECU and, well, VOILA! lol....it's pretty much 90% now!

I'll read up tomorrow and try to hit some things in the morning.(Tests, etc.) For now, I gotta close this one out before I hit a hard '20'(DANG, being warm today didn't help! lol), hahaha. BTW, found a long lost Messermeister 10" SERIOUS quality Chef's Knife today that I'd been missing for 3 years! lol. Guess where it was? CAMPING GEAR! hahahahaha!