87 4Runner 22RE troubleshooting help needed
06-19-2010, 08:23 PM
#222
Odd, eh? I guess I'll take your word for it, since I've got NO FREAKY DEAKY CLUE! LOL.
SWEET on the seats, Brother! Very nice, ...now you need those side pockets I have, and I need the back panels without the 6x9 CUT OUT HOLES! "Hey Jose, ...whataya say?" hahah.
So, is it possible what I asked? Could it actually cause it to run VERY different. BTW, the Pressure is like WAY higher than even a week ago(not TOO high, just, you know, where a fresh build should be,lol) Also, I wanted you to know that I did the Dielectric Dab on that and 2 more connectors, just to cover them all(in the engine bay anyhow, haha).
PS> My AFM is sounding really odd....and I remembered that I still haven't sealed that up SNUG, ...so ASAP, promise Flecker!
Hope you have a WONDERFUL time with pops tomorrow, ....I sure would enjoy that myself, were he not so far. He's got a VERY upright son in you, ...he can't be too bad a guy, your pops!
Take care, Happy Fathers day to all ya'all!
SWEET on the seats, Brother! Very nice, ...now you need those side pockets I have, and I need the back panels without the 6x9 CUT OUT HOLES! "Hey Jose, ...whataya say?" hahah.
So, is it possible what I asked? Could it actually cause it to run VERY different. BTW, the Pressure is like WAY higher than even a week ago(not TOO high, just, you know, where a fresh build should be,lol) Also, I wanted you to know that I did the Dielectric Dab on that and 2 more connectors, just to cover them all(in the engine bay anyhow, haha).
PS> My AFM is sounding really odd....and I remembered that I still haven't sealed that up SNUG, ...so ASAP, promise Flecker!
Hope you have a WONDERFUL time with pops tomorrow, ....I sure would enjoy that myself, were he not so far. He's got a VERY upright son in you, ...he can't be too bad a guy, your pops!
Take care, Happy Fathers day to all ya'all!
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 06-19-2010 at 08:25 PM.
06-19-2010, 11:16 PM
#223
Registered User
Just out of curiousity, Have you replaced the banjo bolt(pulse dampner) that goes in the main fuel line in to the fuel rail. A buddy of mine had bought a truck for cheap that ran poorley and had similar problems. Someone replaced that pulse dampner bolt with an aftermarket one.
The factory one had a round hole with a square peg inside of it so when u put the copper washer on at alows fuel to flow through. The aftermarket one had a round shaft with a round fuel passage and when the copper washer was istalled it severley decreased the fuel flow.
May or may not help you but its worth a shot
The factory one had a round hole with a square peg inside of it so when u put the copper washer on at alows fuel to flow through. The aftermarket one had a round shaft with a round fuel passage and when the copper washer was istalled it severley decreased the fuel flow.
May or may not help you but its worth a shot
06-20-2010, 11:18 AM
#224
Thanks Tombo, I appreciate any input!
Yeah, it's the original damper, and I went to the Dealer for the Crush Gaskets, ...factory. That doesn't mean that my damper isn't heading south, and I've had trouble on how to verify that. A toy mechanic told me they go out more often than the FPR, ....I have a replacement FPR off that PURRING donor vehicle, but I'll have to go back for the damper. I need a couple more things anyway, so I'll grab that tomorrow for probably 10$ or so.
Actually, I'm not sure the one I have is the original, but I think so, as I've put 150K PURRFECT running miles on it and no problems, ....and it looked untouched when I pulled it to clean the rail and rebuild everything. Oddly enough, the Damper and FPR are around the same price, hahaha.....But hey, that's Toyota for ya, ....some things you'd think would be MUCH cheaper never are, unfortunately, lol. I'll try to find the test for it if there is one.
I'm gonna be replacing the Throttle Body from that perfect running truck, out with mine, we'll see on that. Also, the VSV's didn't read well for Flecker and I, so I'll probably be swapping one thing at a time to see if I have a difference. I cleaned this other TB yesterday, and it seems to be free of that 'sticking' when it's closed, ....could be a major issue that wouldn't really be easy to find other than replacing.
HAPPY FATHERS DAY, YOTATECH'POPS! Grandpoppi's as well!
Mark
Yeah, it's the original damper, and I went to the Dealer for the Crush Gaskets, ...factory. That doesn't mean that my damper isn't heading south, and I've had trouble on how to verify that. A toy mechanic told me they go out more often than the FPR, ....I have a replacement FPR off that PURRING donor vehicle, but I'll have to go back for the damper. I need a couple more things anyway, so I'll grab that tomorrow for probably 10$ or so.
Actually, I'm not sure the one I have is the original, but I think so, as I've put 150K PURRFECT running miles on it and no problems, ....and it looked untouched when I pulled it to clean the rail and rebuild everything. Oddly enough, the Damper and FPR are around the same price, hahaha.....But hey, that's Toyota for ya, ....some things you'd think would be MUCH cheaper never are, unfortunately, lol. I'll try to find the test for it if there is one.
I'm gonna be replacing the Throttle Body from that perfect running truck, out with mine, we'll see on that. Also, the VSV's didn't read well for Flecker and I, so I'll probably be swapping one thing at a time to see if I have a difference. I cleaned this other TB yesterday, and it seems to be free of that 'sticking' when it's closed, ....could be a major issue that wouldn't really be easy to find other than replacing.
HAPPY FATHERS DAY, YOTATECH'POPS! Grandpoppi's as well!
Mark
06-20-2010, 11:23 AM
#225
Flecker, .....question.......actually, anyone who could answer....
I have that new Gauge panel above....but it's got different miles. it's also got a lil crack from the careless dude taking it out the other day! grrrrrr! It's tiny, but with another 150K or so, it could get worse, ya know? So, I wanted to ask, .....would I be better off just changing out the Temp Gauge with mine, since that's the only thing not working properly in my panel? That way, I can keep my original miles, etc., and avoid having to worry about it cracking further? Flecker, ...you said it's easy to change that gauge out, right? Just was hoping for a lil walk through, so that I don't wind up breaking my cover taking it out, etc. Any advice or tips would be GREATLY appreciated.
Thanks guys,
Mark
I have that new Gauge panel above....but it's got different miles. it's also got a lil crack from the careless dude taking it out the other day! grrrrrr! It's tiny, but with another 150K or so, it could get worse, ya know? So, I wanted to ask, .....would I be better off just changing out the Temp Gauge with mine, since that's the only thing not working properly in my panel? That way, I can keep my original miles, etc., and avoid having to worry about it cracking further? Flecker, ...you said it's easy to change that gauge out, right? Just was hoping for a lil walk through, so that I don't wind up breaking my cover taking it out, etc. Any advice or tips would be GREATLY appreciated.
Thanks guys,
Mark
06-20-2010, 01:11 PM
#226
Registered User
Geez chef, you're on a roll up there!!! Looks like you got a good deal on some parts eh?
About your gauge miles dilehmma, first hand experience, DO not try to swap the mile couter lol or turn it back (it goes to slow with a drill). You can swap the left side with the temp/oil pressure gauges fairly easily though, but don't get a new unit and try to swap the miles over. We had about 10 extra clusters trying to swap them (all non SR5 ones so we didn't really care about them) and we broke every one in a different spot. That spring calibrator in the speedo is some engineered stuff, very hard to get back in there correctly!
Maybe this is just me but i like to put a little rtv on the threads of the sender unit, just to make sure it seals, maybe I'm paranoid hehe
About your gauge miles dilehmma, first hand experience, DO not try to swap the mile couter lol or turn it back (it goes to slow with a drill). You can swap the left side with the temp/oil pressure gauges fairly easily though, but don't get a new unit and try to swap the miles over. We had about 10 extra clusters trying to swap them (all non SR5 ones so we didn't really care about them) and we broke every one in a different spot. That spring calibrator in the speedo is some engineered stuff, very hard to get back in there correctly!
Maybe this is just me but i like to put a little rtv on the threads of the sender unit, just to make sure it seals, maybe I'm paranoid hehe
06-20-2010, 01:35 PM
#227
Hey Joe,
Nahhh, you're not paranoid, ....but to be honest, every Toy Mechanic I spoke to said, "NOOOOOOOOOOOOO", hahaha. It's brass, so it should seat in there VERY snug and leak free....but a tiny bit of thread/sealer is ok if absolutely necessary, after one figures out the sender is good.
I'M TELLING YOU, GUYS, ...the thing is running MUCH BETTER with the Oil Sender tight in there. Not sure as no one has chimed in, but I wonder how much it can effect ECU confusion to have a big loss of pressure off and on(it would seal up at times from heat, I think, ...but nonetheless was LEAKING, no doubt). I just fully warmed it up and drove around quite a bit....NOT A DROP, THANK GOD! I might still have leaking from the Axle, but I honestly don't think that was it, as, even though I flushed the drivetrain fluids(in my regular scheduled maint.), ....it just couldn't be THAT clean, as it was. So My guess is that it was oil that was squirting out at times(thus, my pressure would drop), then it would seal back up as pressure would build, stopping the squirting(squirting that made it hard to figure where it was coming from!) I'm gonna keep an eye the next couple days, but I'M REALLY FEELING LIKE I'M CLOSE TO HAVING THIS THING TOIGHT, ...'TOIGHT, LIKE A TOIGER!" hahaha.
Please don't give up on me, guys! lol.... Any advice is STILL very appreciated!
Mark
PS> Joe, Yeah, I'm gonna just change out the Temp gauge, the oil pressure one is fine, and WORKING, ...WHICH IS, THANK GOD, WHAT POINTED ME TO INVESTIGATE AND INSPECT, FURTHER!!!! Fhewwwwwww, lol. I was just wondering, actually, is it easy to brake the clips that hold on the outer shell when changing out only a single gauge(thus, taking it apart, the two plastic pieces-face and bottom) ?????
Nahhh, you're not paranoid, ....but to be honest, every Toy Mechanic I spoke to said, "NOOOOOOOOOOOOO", hahaha. It's brass, so it should seat in there VERY snug and leak free....but a tiny bit of thread/sealer is ok if absolutely necessary, after one figures out the sender is good.
I'M TELLING YOU, GUYS, ...the thing is running MUCH BETTER with the Oil Sender tight in there. Not sure as no one has chimed in, but I wonder how much it can effect ECU confusion to have a big loss of pressure off and on(it would seal up at times from heat, I think, ...but nonetheless was LEAKING, no doubt). I just fully warmed it up and drove around quite a bit....NOT A DROP, THANK GOD! I might still have leaking from the Axle, but I honestly don't think that was it, as, even though I flushed the drivetrain fluids(in my regular scheduled maint.), ....it just couldn't be THAT clean, as it was. So My guess is that it was oil that was squirting out at times(thus, my pressure would drop), then it would seal back up as pressure would build, stopping the squirting(squirting that made it hard to figure where it was coming from!) I'm gonna keep an eye the next couple days, but I'M REALLY FEELING LIKE I'M CLOSE TO HAVING THIS THING TOIGHT, ...'TOIGHT, LIKE A TOIGER!" hahaha.
Please don't give up on me, guys! lol.... Any advice is STILL very appreciated!
Mark
PS> Joe, Yeah, I'm gonna just change out the Temp gauge, the oil pressure one is fine, and WORKING, ...WHICH IS, THANK GOD, WHAT POINTED ME TO INVESTIGATE AND INSPECT, FURTHER!!!! Fhewwwwwww, lol. I was just wondering, actually, is it easy to brake the clips that hold on the outer shell when changing out only a single gauge(thus, taking it apart, the two plastic pieces-face and bottom) ?????
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 06-20-2010 at 01:37 PM.
06-21-2010, 03:48 PM
#228
Hey guys, ......
Swapped out the Throttle Body with the TPS it had on there, .... It started out pretty low, lower than usual(bout 400rpm), then came up to 750 with some screwing out of the idle/air screw. It seemed a lil more responsive off the line, but hard to tell too much of the difference, to be honest. Then, I drove around, and eventually, it came back up to 900rpm or so, and seemed to want to hold there. One difference was that when i pushed back on the throttle linkage it did NOT idle down. Also, for giggles, I killed the motor, restarted it, and it started off at 750 or so and stayed there.
Flecker, I'm really thinking my TPS needs to be readjusted on the original Throttle Body. I also really think that the IACV is, for some reason, not doing it's job, even though it's circulating coolant once warmed up, because IT DOES NOT idle up. However, the new IACV off the rolled 87?....I can't be sure it's still secure because the fluid that was coming out of the electrical connector. I'm also suspicious of my CSI time switch, but I'll have to check that out, also. The motor seems to be missing a lil more with this Throttle Body on there, with that Pup-pupupup thing happening more. Still have the O2 code showing up when racing the engine idle the first time, cold, or even if it's gone away when warm at idle for a while.
I guess I will next try the FPR and VSV(VSV first on the existing FPR, just to rule it out without having to break loose the EGR hose to get the FPR out! DANGGGGGGGG! This sucks, guys! I did seal up my AFM(Plate to AFM body) with a gasket I made...seems less noisy...but didn't stop the problem or change it much.
Swapped out the Throttle Body with the TPS it had on there, .... It started out pretty low, lower than usual(bout 400rpm), then came up to 750 with some screwing out of the idle/air screw. It seemed a lil more responsive off the line, but hard to tell too much of the difference, to be honest. Then, I drove around, and eventually, it came back up to 900rpm or so, and seemed to want to hold there. One difference was that when i pushed back on the throttle linkage it did NOT idle down. Also, for giggles, I killed the motor, restarted it, and it started off at 750 or so and stayed there.
Flecker, I'm really thinking my TPS needs to be readjusted on the original Throttle Body. I also really think that the IACV is, for some reason, not doing it's job, even though it's circulating coolant once warmed up, because IT DOES NOT idle up. However, the new IACV off the rolled 87?....I can't be sure it's still secure because the fluid that was coming out of the electrical connector. I'm also suspicious of my CSI time switch, but I'll have to check that out, also. The motor seems to be missing a lil more with this Throttle Body on there, with that Pup-pupupup thing happening more. Still have the O2 code showing up when racing the engine idle the first time, cold, or even if it's gone away when warm at idle for a while.
I guess I will next try the FPR and VSV(VSV first on the existing FPR, just to rule it out without having to break loose the EGR hose to get the FPR out! DANGGGGGGGG! This sucks, guys! I did seal up my AFM(Plate to AFM body) with a gasket I made...seems less noisy...but didn't stop the problem or change it much.
06-21-2010, 05:47 PM
#229
Dang, ....no one around, I suppose.
So, I thought I'd check the TPS settings that Flecker and I got from the Original TB(with the new TPS) that I just took off to test the other Throttle Body and TPS. While I'm guessing it's most likely only part of the problem, I wonder if anyone could tell me how important it actually is, ...what I found. On the first check, VTA-E2 fully closed, the reading was .014k ohms. It's supposed to be b2ween 200-800 ohm(.2-.8k) I'm guessing MINE AINT RIGHT, eh? Then, IDL-E2 at .58mm my reading was 0, where it says <2.3kohms. Now, I'm ONCE AGAIN a lil confused by the 4crawler page(franken....'s adjustment). Yes, 0 is below 2.3 ohms, but I'm wondering if being this far below can cause a problem(especially when, on his page, it says "I set the first reading at 500ohm and the rest wind up being RIGHT ON, but you still want to check to be sure". The next reading was the IDL-E2 .85mm, ...it was infinite, as it said it should be. Then, VTA-E2 at Wide Open Throttle,.....I GOT NOTHING, while it said it should be b2ween 3.3k and 10k. VCC-E2 flashed 1.5k for a split second and immediately fell off. Each time I re-tested, same thing. It's supposed to be 3.0k and 7.0k. This doesn't seem right to me, ...am I wrong guys? Yes, I know IDL-E2 settings are the most important.....but that "0" reading on the one IDL-E2 reading has me curious. Maybe this is why I'm a lil rich or using fuel faster than I should be?(Yes, it seems to be eating Gas at times while it doesn't smell really TOO rich.
???????????????????? Anyone ?????????????????????????
So, I thought I'd check the TPS settings that Flecker and I got from the Original TB(with the new TPS) that I just took off to test the other Throttle Body and TPS. While I'm guessing it's most likely only part of the problem, I wonder if anyone could tell me how important it actually is, ...what I found. On the first check, VTA-E2 fully closed, the reading was .014k ohms. It's supposed to be b2ween 200-800 ohm(.2-.8k) I'm guessing MINE AINT RIGHT, eh? Then, IDL-E2 at .58mm my reading was 0, where it says <2.3kohms. Now, I'm ONCE AGAIN a lil confused by the 4crawler page(franken....'s adjustment). Yes, 0 is below 2.3 ohms, but I'm wondering if being this far below can cause a problem(especially when, on his page, it says "I set the first reading at 500ohm and the rest wind up being RIGHT ON, but you still want to check to be sure". The next reading was the IDL-E2 .85mm, ...it was infinite, as it said it should be. Then, VTA-E2 at Wide Open Throttle,.....I GOT NOTHING, while it said it should be b2ween 3.3k and 10k. VCC-E2 flashed 1.5k for a split second and immediately fell off. Each time I re-tested, same thing. It's supposed to be 3.0k and 7.0k. This doesn't seem right to me, ...am I wrong guys? Yes, I know IDL-E2 settings are the most important.....but that "0" reading on the one IDL-E2 reading has me curious. Maybe this is why I'm a lil rich or using fuel faster than I should be?(Yes, it seems to be eating Gas at times while it doesn't smell really TOO rich.
???????????????????? Anyone ?????????????????????????
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 06-21-2010 at 05:49 PM.
06-22-2010, 10:43 AM
#233
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Whats up?
If you use the new to you throttle body, use the new TPS yo have and set it up on that throttle body- set it to spec so the ohm;s read right AFTER you verify the main set screw is set up.
If you use the new to you throttle body, use the new TPS yo have and set it up on that throttle body- set it to spec so the ohm;s read right AFTER you verify the main set screw is set up.
06-22-2010, 11:11 AM
#234
Hey Flecker,
Ok, I'll try that. I think there has to be something wrong with my throttle body or maybe even the TPS??? When I set the first test to 500ohms, like 4Crawler said, "most line up after that", ...mine don't, ....but they're better readings than I've posted above. However, for some reason, the VTA-E2 @ WOT is not reading ANYTHING, even when I tested it before trying to readjust it, and then after as well....."O.L" reading! WTH?
Flecker, I've not been able to get a solid answer from anyone, and I just want to know once and for all, lol, "Shouldn't my truck idle up when cold" and "Isn't the IACV the primary source for idle up?" I looked in the donor IACV sitting on the bench and then mine on the Truck, ...the shutter looks to be in a WAY different position(My orig. that's on there looks nearly closed and I don't think it ever changes...Both hoses get hot, but I don't think it ever adjusts to fully open, yet does adjust to closed when warmed up). So, I'm going to try out the donor as well, just haven't had much time. I can only GUESS that, IF this thing is not doing it's job, I'm not idling up...thus, when I start it cold, it's a lil boggy, then as it warms up it's wanting to idle high because the idle screw can never really be adjusted properly due to the possibly malfunctioning IACV. This, in combination with a screwed up Throttle Body(that is not allowing me to adjust the TPS properly) or both, could be what's giving me some of my issues.
???
PS> I want to be sure I adjust the set screw properly, ...but the directions are a lil confusing to me. Guess I really have comprehension issues beginning to rear their head, lol.
Ok, I'll try that. I think there has to be something wrong with my throttle body or maybe even the TPS??? When I set the first test to 500ohms, like 4Crawler said, "most line up after that", ...mine don't, ....but they're better readings than I've posted above. However, for some reason, the VTA-E2 @ WOT is not reading ANYTHING, even when I tested it before trying to readjust it, and then after as well....."O.L" reading! WTH?
Flecker, I've not been able to get a solid answer from anyone, and I just want to know once and for all, lol, "Shouldn't my truck idle up when cold" and "Isn't the IACV the primary source for idle up?" I looked in the donor IACV sitting on the bench and then mine on the Truck, ...the shutter looks to be in a WAY different position(My orig. that's on there looks nearly closed and I don't think it ever changes...Both hoses get hot, but I don't think it ever adjusts to fully open, yet does adjust to closed when warmed up). So, I'm going to try out the donor as well, just haven't had much time. I can only GUESS that, IF this thing is not doing it's job, I'm not idling up...thus, when I start it cold, it's a lil boggy, then as it warms up it's wanting to idle high because the idle screw can never really be adjusted properly due to the possibly malfunctioning IACV. This, in combination with a screwed up Throttle Body(that is not allowing me to adjust the TPS properly) or both, could be what's giving me some of my issues.
???
PS> I want to be sure I adjust the set screw properly, ...but the directions are a lil confusing to me. Guess I really have comprehension issues beginning to rear their head, lol.
06-22-2010, 11:31 AM
#235
Registered User
Hey Flecker,
Ok, I'll try that. I think there has to be something wrong with my throttle body or maybe even the TPS??? When I set the first test to 500ohms, like 4Crawler said, "most line up after that", ...mine don't, ....but they're better readings than I've posted above. However, for some reason, the VTA-E2 @ WOT is not reading ANYTHING, even when I tested it before trying to readjust it, and then after as well....."O.L" reading! WTH?
Flecker, I've not been able to get a solid answer from anyone, and I just want to know once and for all, lol, "Shouldn't my truck idle up when cold" and "Isn't the IACV the primary source for idle up?" I looked in the donor IACV sitting on the bench and then mine on the Truck, ...the shutter looks to be in a WAY different position(My orig. that's on there looks nearly closed and I don't think it ever changes...Both hoses get hot, but I don't think it ever adjusts to fully open, yet does adjust to closed when warmed up). So, I'm going to try out the donor as well, just haven't had much time. I can only GUESS that, IF this thing is not doing it's job, I'm not idling up...thus, when I start it cold, it's a lil boggy, then as it warms up it's wanting to idle high because the idle screw can never really be adjusted properly due to the possibly malfunctioning IACV. This, in combination with a screwed up Throttle Body(that is not allowing me to adjust the TPS properly) or both, could be what's giving me some of my issues.
???
PS> I want to be sure I adjust the set screw properly, ...but the directions are a lil confusing to me. Guess I really have comprehension issues beginning to rear their head, lol.
Ok, I'll try that. I think there has to be something wrong with my throttle body or maybe even the TPS??? When I set the first test to 500ohms, like 4Crawler said, "most line up after that", ...mine don't, ....but they're better readings than I've posted above. However, for some reason, the VTA-E2 @ WOT is not reading ANYTHING, even when I tested it before trying to readjust it, and then after as well....."O.L" reading! WTH?
Flecker, I've not been able to get a solid answer from anyone, and I just want to know once and for all, lol, "Shouldn't my truck idle up when cold" and "Isn't the IACV the primary source for idle up?" I looked in the donor IACV sitting on the bench and then mine on the Truck, ...the shutter looks to be in a WAY different position(My orig. that's on there looks nearly closed and I don't think it ever changes...Both hoses get hot, but I don't think it ever adjusts to fully open, yet does adjust to closed when warmed up). So, I'm going to try out the donor as well, just haven't had much time. I can only GUESS that, IF this thing is not doing it's job, I'm not idling up...thus, when I start it cold, it's a lil boggy, then as it warms up it's wanting to idle high because the idle screw can never really be adjusted properly due to the possibly malfunctioning IACV. This, in combination with a screwed up Throttle Body(that is not allowing me to adjust the TPS properly) or both, could be what's giving me some of my issues.
???
PS> I want to be sure I adjust the set screw properly, ...but the directions are a lil confusing to me. Guess I really have comprehension issues beginning to rear their head, lol.
06-22-2010, 11:36 AM
#236
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06-22-2010, 11:57 AM
#237
Hey Rob, Flecker, Thanks.
Ok, yeah, I am, that's why I did the Throttle Body, first, ....and yet it still idled up like before. I just haven't had lots of time to stay out there and work on it, so It's going in tiny pieces at a time, lol. Also, I'm just trying to find answers as to how things WORK, thus making it easier to diagnose or rule things out. Most of it's in the book, and the Haynes does explain some on the IACV, but it's NO FSM, that's for sure, hahaha. I've been hunting for one I can download with my Adobe(newest version it says). Again, Just kinda limited on time throughout the day. However, in about 10 minutes, I've got all day.
Still wondering why it wont read ''anything'' on the VTA-E2 @ WOT.....seems odd to me. I'll head out there and try the TB with the new TPS, plus the IACV while that's off, then go from there.
Ok, yeah, I am, that's why I did the Throttle Body, first, ....and yet it still idled up like before. I just haven't had lots of time to stay out there and work on it, so It's going in tiny pieces at a time, lol. Also, I'm just trying to find answers as to how things WORK, thus making it easier to diagnose or rule things out. Most of it's in the book, and the Haynes does explain some on the IACV, but it's NO FSM, that's for sure, hahaha. I've been hunting for one I can download with my Adobe(newest version it says). Again, Just kinda limited on time throughout the day. However, in about 10 minutes, I've got all day.
Still wondering why it wont read ''anything'' on the VTA-E2 @ WOT.....seems odd to me. I'll head out there and try the TB with the new TPS, plus the IACV while that's off, then go from there.
06-22-2010, 01:58 PM
#238
Hey guys,
Ok, I placed the new TPS on the donor Throttle Body. I read, reread and reread again, ....and adjusted the throttle stop screw by FSM(down till touching firmly, then 1/4 turn further) So I think we're good on that for sure. Then adjusted the TPS, pulled the 85mm feeler, inserted the 57mm feeler, adjusted to VERY finite specs as best as I could, pulled the feeler and it measured .014 on 20K setting. Then, retested the VTA-E2 at 0mm, ....600ohms. VTA-E2 at WOT, ......5.8 on 20k setting. All within specs, ....fhewwwwww, that thing is SO TOUCHY, lol. Kinda like my......nvm. Not sure why it wasn't reading WOT during VTA-E2 test, previously, ...must have been off slightly.
Now I'm holding the donor IACV in my hand, and I'll be swapping that out next. What I'm wondering about the IACV, aside from the "Idle Up when cold" thing, is .....while I know it has it's own heater and sensor/valve inside, ....is it controlled by the Coolant Temp Sensor? The reason I ask is, ....that CTSensor is new, ....but I was wondering if anyone had a FSM check on the voltage for that wire? Please, if you do, could you post it or link me to it? I'm starting to wonder if my problem is wiring, rather than some of the sensors.
I will do the O2 Wiring tomorrow, Flecker. However, seeing as it seems to be operating at the proper time(closed loop)....it seems as though the problem with that 'code' has more to do with some other sensor/whatever, causing it to run too rich or lean, setting off the O2 code. Only thing is, ...wouldn't the ECU then adjust accordingly? I guess it can't if there is something not working properly. Mannnnnnn, ...if I only had use of the entire Toyota Dealership bay for a couple days,....and EVERY ONE OF THEM BRAINSTORMING ON MY RIG, ....wouldn't that be cool? hahahaha.
Ok, I placed the new TPS on the donor Throttle Body. I read, reread and reread again, ....and adjusted the throttle stop screw by FSM(down till touching firmly, then 1/4 turn further) So I think we're good on that for sure. Then adjusted the TPS, pulled the 85mm feeler, inserted the 57mm feeler, adjusted to VERY finite specs as best as I could, pulled the feeler and it measured .014 on 20K setting. Then, retested the VTA-E2 at 0mm, ....600ohms. VTA-E2 at WOT, ......5.8 on 20k setting. All within specs, ....fhewwwwww, that thing is SO TOUCHY, lol. Kinda like my......nvm. Not sure why it wasn't reading WOT during VTA-E2 test, previously, ...must have been off slightly.
Now I'm holding the donor IACV in my hand, and I'll be swapping that out next. What I'm wondering about the IACV, aside from the "Idle Up when cold" thing, is .....while I know it has it's own heater and sensor/valve inside, ....is it controlled by the Coolant Temp Sensor? The reason I ask is, ....that CTSensor is new, ....but I was wondering if anyone had a FSM check on the voltage for that wire? Please, if you do, could you post it or link me to it? I'm starting to wonder if my problem is wiring, rather than some of the sensors.
I will do the O2 Wiring tomorrow, Flecker. However, seeing as it seems to be operating at the proper time(closed loop)....it seems as though the problem with that 'code' has more to do with some other sensor/whatever, causing it to run too rich or lean, setting off the O2 code. Only thing is, ...wouldn't the ECU then adjust accordingly? I guess it can't if there is something not working properly. Mannnnnnn, ...if I only had use of the entire Toyota Dealership bay for a couple days,....and EVERY ONE OF THEM BRAINSTORMING ON MY RIG, ....wouldn't that be cool? hahahaha.
06-22-2010, 03:42 PM
#239
K, .....I just removed the IACV from my truck, and then,....I decided to take the cover off of both. The donor one is DEFINITELY in worse shape, Mine is better, but I'm going to look at the inner workings of a brand new one, tomorrow, and we'll go from there. Mine is BARELY open, when cold.....maybe that's how it's supposed to be, I don't know. But, the arm that runs up the middle and pushes the valve either way?.....IT IS capable of opening that valve ALL the way, and I'm thinking it's just worn out. Everything inside was VERY clean(I'll get pics), while the donor one, not too dirty, but seemingly more worn out. The outer sleeve(the black one that actually swings closed over the port as it warms?)...it had somehow flipped to the opposite side of the middle push arm that drives it back and forth by temp.
I'll let ANYONE WHO'S INTERESTED know, first thing, what I learn about the new one I get a look at. If the new one is wide open in the port, .....then I'm just going to have to buy a new one. I think, after 260k miiles, ....they just wear out, mechanically(the push arm that runs up the middle), because the one from the donor?....VERY SLOPPY, indeed.
I'll go from there, guys...sorry I'm having so much trouble...Honest, I'm really trying everything and being as thorough as possible. Grrr, lol.
I'll let ANYONE WHO'S INTERESTED know, first thing, what I learn about the new one I get a look at. If the new one is wide open in the port, .....then I'm just going to have to buy a new one. I think, after 260k miiles, ....they just wear out, mechanically(the push arm that runs up the middle), because the one from the donor?....VERY SLOPPY, indeed.
I'll go from there, guys...sorry I'm having so much trouble...Honest, I'm really trying everything and being as thorough as possible. Grrr, lol.
06-22-2010, 05:44 PM
#240
Registered User
last time i checked, iacv's weren't too cheap... 
but with all those other parts on there, it will be nice knowing you got it all taken care of!
i had a miss at idle, that seemed to go away at higher rpm's, but my emission's sheet showed otherwise. exhaust valve on cyl 3 was so tight it probably wasn't closing all the way, adjusted, good to go, then high rpm miss came, blocked off egr, and good to go, so i can add new egr to my list....
any new news?
but with all those other parts on there, it will be nice knowing you got it all taken care of!
i had a miss at idle, that seemed to go away at higher rpm's, but my emission's sheet showed otherwise. exhaust valve on cyl 3 was so tight it probably wasn't closing all the way, adjusted, good to go, then high rpm miss came, blocked off egr, and good to go, so i can add new egr to my list....
any new news?
