87 22RE idle problems stalling
#1
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87 22RE idle problems stalling
I've searched with no successful results.
Vehicle:
1987 4Runner, 22RE, 5spd swapped
Problem:
Will start and idle fine, after it warms up, it will not hold an idle. Idle drops to 500 rpms or less, 9 times out of 10, it will stall. When driving in 2nd gear, around 1500 rpms, i can stab the gas and it fells like the brake is on until about 2000 rpms where it accelerates like a bat out of hell (nitrous type thing).
Just replaced the Coolant Temp Sensor, cleaned the TB a bit and it did nothing but improve pre-warm-up idle.
I've read alot of possible problems. Just wondering what I should go "waste" money on next to try.
Vehicle:
1987 4Runner, 22RE, 5spd swapped
Problem:
Will start and idle fine, after it warms up, it will not hold an idle. Idle drops to 500 rpms or less, 9 times out of 10, it will stall. When driving in 2nd gear, around 1500 rpms, i can stab the gas and it fells like the brake is on until about 2000 rpms where it accelerates like a bat out of hell (nitrous type thing).
Just replaced the Coolant Temp Sensor, cleaned the TB a bit and it did nothing but improve pre-warm-up idle.
I've read alot of possible problems. Just wondering what I should go "waste" money on next to try.
#3
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Would a gap in the intake ducting cause this only after warm-up?
Cold it idles around 800 Rpm
Last edited by 4banginRunner; 11-27-2008 at 09:33 AM.
#6
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the 800 rpm cold idle suggests either a leak in the duct, or the idle is set wrong. you should be about 750 rpm warmed up. my 88 idles about 1000-1100 on a cold start ~50F, my 91 idles about 1100 also when cold, then both settle to 750-800 when warmed up.
as mentioned, the timing being could also cause similar symptoms
a low idle could also cause the timing to be off.
#7
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yes, a gap in the inake could do it since there would be air getting into the engine that wouldn't go through the afm. The ecu makes the fuel mix rich during warm up and this could cause issues with it warm as the mix leans out.
the 800 rpm cold idle suggests either a leak in the duct, or the idle is set wrong. you should be about 750 rpm warmed up. my 88 idles about 1000-1100 on a cold start ~50F, my 91 idles about 1100 also when cold, then both settle to 750-800 when warmed up.
as mentioned, the timing being could also cause similar symptoms
a low idle could also cause the timing to be off.
the 800 rpm cold idle suggests either a leak in the duct, or the idle is set wrong. you should be about 750 rpm warmed up. my 88 idles about 1000-1100 on a cold start ~50F, my 91 idles about 1100 also when cold, then both settle to 750-800 when warmed up.
as mentioned, the timing being could also cause similar symptoms
a low idle could also cause the timing to be off.
Also, how would timing be affected? This problem happened pretty much over night. The engine sounds normal when it does idle normal, so I doubt the chain went and the distributer hasn't been touched since I put new plugs, wires, cap and rotor on in January. J/w, since i don't really know that much about timing.
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#10
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Fixed it ,picked up a TB w/TPS and air valve at the junkyard yesterday for $20. Cleaned the both, installed and it idled at 2100RPM!!! Played with the idle and got her back down to 750, runs good now. Just hope the problem doesn't work itself back.
#11
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I'm having the same problem. Is it really necessary to fully replace the TPS and TB? I dont have a salvadge yard around here to pull one from.
Any other suggestions? Did it need cleaned, adjusted, modified?
Any other suggestions? Did it need cleaned, adjusted, modified?
#12
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i'm pretty sure it was the TPS
i replaced both b/c, well the 4runner in the junkyard had um, and it was cheaper than buying new, $58.xx for a new TPS and $249.xx for a Air Valve
after putting the "new" TB on it runs a heck of alot smoother, probably b/c its cleaned so that helped to
i replaced both b/c, well the 4runner in the junkyard had um, and it was cheaper than buying new, $58.xx for a new TPS and $249.xx for a Air Valve
after putting the "new" TB on it runs a heck of alot smoother, probably b/c its cleaned so that helped to
#13
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Hmm. Mine's pretty clean. When I did the head job a while back I cleaned it so well I could lick it. It was shiny. All of the carbon and dirt was gone. It went through a hot tank bath and then was touched up with carb cleaner.
Mine's idling really bad now. Didn't do it until I removed the air filter to clean it. So my issue may be something different.
Mine's idling really bad now. Didn't do it until I removed the air filter to clean it. So my issue may be something different.
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Im using a K&N filter. I cleaned the AFM because I thought it might be dirty and gummed up as well. Still no change. I'll look into getting a new TB and TPS, though. I just have to find a junkyard around here.
#18
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I pulled the cable from the TPS and my truck seems to idle better than when it's plugged in. My gas mileage dropped like a rock, but this points me in the proper direction.
Now that I know it's the TPS, should I just replace it or is there any tweaking I can do? I see two screws holding it in place and it seems adjustable. I've already read that TPS guide and it completely loses me with it's instructions. I have an OHM meter (just got it today) and I'm going to pull the sensor to test/replace it.
Now that I know it's the TPS, should I just replace it or is there any tweaking I can do? I see two screws holding it in place and it seems adjustable. I've already read that TPS guide and it completely loses me with it's instructions. I have an OHM meter (just got it today) and I'm going to pull the sensor to test/replace it.
#20
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