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So I have given up and given in. I appreciate all the help and support. After lots of time, money and tears I’m selling the truck. The driveshaft dropped on the highway, the front joint that connects to the trans.eek! Drives ok on just the front 2 but I just got it home and parked it. Quoted $500 for a brand new built to order shaft of OE quality. Flanges are probably salvageable off the old so that would save some dough. The engine I could never get the idle to stay consistent and usually won’t stay running at idle when it warms up. The only thing in the fuel system I didn’t replace was the pump which is probably the culprit, but I may never know. Definitely isn’t the new tps since I had the timing advance technique working and set with no check engine lights, but only for a short while. I’m admittedly not the greatest with electrical so I don’t want to limit the possibility that the problem could still be in the wiring to the ECU. If I can’t sell it I will return to it next spring when I have my new truck paid off.
Nah nah nah, this is you’re second car?
Are you strapped for cash?
No place to park/store it?
Here’s your chance to get good or better at electrical.
You have a faulty/intermittent e2 ground on the upper intake manifold stud which explains codes (I read they’re gone now) 4, 7, 11, & 12. Check for proper harness to sensor terminal connections. Voltage drop to ground test the wire termination at that intake manifold stud, the e2 terminals at THW and TPS, and the grounded shield of the knock sensor wire. Your problem is in there somewhere.
You also likely have a faulty/intermittent ground to body connection. Which explains codes 3 & 6. The igniter and coil ground to the body. Voltage drop to ground test where the igniter/coil bolt to the body and your battery to body ground cable. Easy fix, run a new wire from neg batt terminal to body if needed. Multiple ground locations is not always a good thing.
Voltage drop to ground how to.
key on
dmm set to dc voltage
neg lead from dmm to neg batt terminal
positive lead to other corresponding ground point, ie. intake manifold stud, e2 terminals in harness, knock sensor shield, body mount for igniter/coil.
Ideally you want the meter to read 0.00 volts dc. In reality you consider a reading of 0.1 to 0.4 vdc to be acceptable. Any reading higher than 0.4vdc there is a problem. Investigate.
Best thing about all this is it’s free. Second best thing is you don’t need a drive shaft to verify.
03-16-2020, 10:21 AM
