saluka4801

Where do I even begin ! Took my truck up to my land on basically impassable dirt road . On my way down mountain brake light came on and charge light flickered. Then I I smelled something burning . Pulled over and my 80 amp fuse was melted. Made it to town 30 miles away no problems . Next day started truck both lights remained on and I replaced 80 amp fuse link. 3 days later left stranded dead battery that was only 2 weeks old it was replaced when I put in new alternator.








Plug to alternator keeps falling out??? Not sure why ??? Is this normal????


Orange wire looks melted I have no idea what this may go to? Relay?

Why is this just chilling and hanging in my truck 😂 I love my truck but I am so aggravated right now . I just want cruise! I have this bad ass low mileage engine and electrical issues up the wazoo! I also just replaced clutch cylinder sleeve idk what i did wrong but I must of messed something up ! Any help please

saluka4801

I also replaced the 7.5 amp fuse for ˟˟˟˟˟˟ and giggles. If this may be of help to anyone with ideas.... The brake light stays on but the charge light goes on and off when turning, when accelerating, but if I put in in neutral charge light stays off???

saluka4801

Okay I think I found the issue in the relay orange wire . Not sure if this has anything to do w/my problem but regardless I need all new wiring!

saluka4801

Okay all I did was clean up that 30a orange wire and taped. Started truck up oh look at that lights are still on. But now I’m chasing this green wire from relay and also found weird wires kicker panel stuffed in fuses???












Okay, solo green wire I believe should be attached to dr sd fender wall? Figure out why there is wires stuffed into fuses and why these wires are hanging out under steering column. I refuse to take this to a mechanic. I will conquer this !

saluka4801

My new battery is currently charging inside and yeah I have a ˟˟˟˟ brand new walmart battery in truck .

saluka4801

Hanes/owners manual can’t seem to find my answers.I need real time pics of someone else’s setup. Crown Whiskey time maybe that will get brain revvvin!

I also have my original owners manual for my 4runner and all original repair receipts on them . I purchased Both 4runner and truck from 1st owners!

saluka4801

I don’t even know what I did . Just took the truck for a drive about 15 miles and only the brake light remains on . But from other posts I have read on here this seems to be a reoccurring issue.

2ToyGuy

Just the brake light, without the Charge light, is a pretty sure indication of the switch on the pull handle for the parking brake either being bad, or out of alignment. Pretty easy to test,, or re-align.
That's presuming the Charge light does come on when you first turn the key to ON, just before you start it up. Verifies the bulb is good.

All the wires plugged into the fuses are more than likely for after market electronics added by the PO. It's a lousy way to do it, but cheap, quick, and easy. You just have to be careful changing the fuses with the wires in them. The wires will pull out with the fuse, and you'll have to slide it back in with the new fuse. A real PITA, and, IMHO, as a professional electronics tech, a really bad way to do things. Much better to find the wire that comes off the fuse, and solder in a add-on wire. A quick cut, strip, slide some heatshrink on, and solder the new wire to it, parallel to, and wrapped around, the original wire. Slide the heatshrink down over the solder join, and shrink it down. MUCH better way to do it.

You'll need to trace the wires out to determine what they feed. Or unplug one, and see what no longer comes on
The stuff dangling under the steering column is no good at all. At the very least, zip ties for bundling them all up, and storing them up under the dash where they belong, is the way to go. Alternatively, trace them out, and reroute them up over the steering column, making sure NOT to get them anywhere near moving parts. The steering, parking brake, and pedals, mainly. You may need to replace them with longer wires, if they aren't long enough to tie up properly.

is that all any help?
Pat☺

saluka4801

Apparently I have the LEFT BRAIN approach which is why diagrams/schematics drove me to my whiskey break! So just in case someone else like me stumbles on here....This is for us LEFTIES!-After chasing my fried orange wire from terminal 30 its currently connected to my KC lights in front of truck that no longer work as of 3 days ago (PO RIG) and that's it. I pulled it earlier and the charge light remained off.
-The green wire is connected to Terminal 85 and in the pics above obviously show that is goes no where.

In any circuit with a DIN relay, without looking at a wiring diagram, you know that:

• Terminal 86 supplies power to the relay’s internal electromagnet.
• Terminal 85 grounds the electromagnet.
• Terminal 30 supplies power to one of the internal switch contacts.
• Terminal 87 connects the other internal switch contact to the device controlled by the relay.
• When you power terminal 86 and ground terminal 85, it energizes the electromagnet, which pulls the internal switch contacts closed, which connects 30 (power) to 87 (the device), which sends power to the device.

Terminal
Which Circuit?Definition

86
Low current (control)Relay coil + (power input)

85
Low current (control)Relay coil – (ground)

30
High current (load)From battery +

87
High current (load)Output to device, normally open, pulled closed when coil is energized

87a
High current (load)Only used on single-pole double throw (SPDT) “changeover” relays. Output to other device, normally closed, pulled open when coil is energized

And for those who prefer right-brain pictures, note that the photo doesn’t show the 87a terminal, as this is only used by single-pole-double-throw “changeover” relays that are less commonly used than the four-terminal single-pole-single-throw (SPST) relays described here.

test the relay itself, take two wires, each about a foot long with a female spade terminal at one end and stripped at the other end. Attach one spade connector to relay terminal 86 (coil +). Attach the other to relay terminal 85 (coil ground). Touch the 86 wire to the battery’s positive post, and the 85 wire to the battery’s negative post. Actually, unless the relay has a diode in it, it won’t matter if the polarity is switched; the electromagnet will be energized regardless. You should hear and feel the relay click. If you don’t, the relay isn’t working. Replace it.

For extra credit, you can set a multimeter to measure conductivity (resistance) and connect it across relay terminals 30 and 87. When you touch 86 and 85 to the battery, the electromagnet pulls the switch contacts together, so the resistance between 30 and 87 should read essentially zero (under one ohm). If it doesn’t, the relay isn’t working. Replace it.


https://www.hagerty.com/media/mainte...relays-part-3/

saluka4801

@2ToyGuy Wowzers! Okay thank you so much for breaking that down for me! Electronic anything is not my forte but if I want these toys I gotta teach myself. This forum has truly been a lifeline forsure! I got my Zipties galore check ! Absolutely yes that helped your info was super informative! I really want to replace all the wires and start new but I didn't know if I could do that as in just start pulling wires. Again thank you! Super appreciative !

2ToyGuy

Glad I could be help

Don't just rip wires out. Make sure that you know where they go, from where you're looking at them. Just because a wire is waving around in the breeze, doesn't mean it's not important to how the truck runs. The PO may well have pulled them out of a wire loom, and not bothered putting them back properly. Or had a wire break or wear through, and just stuck it where he could find a place to get voltage. It's a presumption, an educated guess, that they're for after market electronics. But never assume. Make sure you KNOW. Like I said, pull one, and see what no longer functions. The radio, the CB (is that what that little thingy below the stereo is?), that USM quad dohickey, and so forth.

Anywho, I wish you all the best, and if you need more help, feel free to ask
Pat☺

saluka4801

@2ToyGuy My dad would be rollin over in his grave if I started yanking all the wires I mean I really want to do that but I know better but thank you because trust me I know you can't fix stupid in some people! Yeah its a cb that still works ...PO had at one time had a plow, security system, etc etc hooked up. I did go out and try to mess w/ pk brake its never worked I guess that's what 1st gear is for. The light is still on. I am now going to make my own diagram of all wires where they go and get a parts/wire list order going. I guess what I should've stated earlier is because of your response I feel more comfortable replacing the nightmare of hookups in this truck. The USB plug is not in Cigg Lighter (which does work) yet because I am waiting to do more research before I start plugging in my iPhone. I learned my lesson on my 4 runner and the cigs lighter could not handle the load and I shorted out some stuff on that. The 4 runner Was way easier and much cleaner than this truck is. Again thank you!

wallytoo

iTrader: (1)

i'd worry that maybe the charge light isn't on when it is supposed to be. the voltmeter is reading fairly low in the picture; might be showing only battery voltage, with no alternator charging. mine typically indicates a voltage closer to "18" than to the "center line".

RAD4Runner

Nothing to do with yo charging system.
Here is how charging system works: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...s-22re-304868/

See how yours differs from this^^^, and that's your problem.

2ToyGuy

The USB connector in the cigarette lighter socket probably shorted out because your phone draws more current when charging than the socket's fuse is rated for. IIRC, the socket is on the same fuse as the radio, and normally, I think (although rarely any more) has a 7.5 Amp fuse. There are two things you can do to rectify the situation. One, you can stick in a higher amperage rated fuse. Quick, simple, easy. BUT, would the socket, and the wiring, be able to handle the current? Most likely, not. POOF! All the smoke is let loose, and we all know electrical circuits operate exclusively on smoke.
The other way would be to tap off one of the wires going TO the fuse block, feeding one of the higher amperage rated fuses, and make sure you have a fuse inline to deal with problems that may occur. Most important thing, really, is to make sure you know for sure the current your phone draws during charging. MAX current. Make sure any USB connector you install for that, as well as the associated fuse, is rated for the current your phone draws.
If it was ME, I would run a 10ga wire from the battery + to whatever USB connector you choose, with a high enough rated fuse for how much your phone draws plus about 10%-20%. That way you've got a completely separate circuit, added onto the truck. If it fails, it won't affect anything else in the truck. IE, it can't take the radio, or tail lights, or whatever, with it if the fuse blows.

I didn't THINK (see!?) that you'd just go i and start ripping loose handfulls of wires, but hey, ya never know. Better to say something now, than to have you do it, and then have to guide you through fixing it back up

Good luck, and if any of us can be any more help, let us know!
Pat☺

scope103

?

A standard USB A port can deliver a maximum of 1.8A at 5v (since the adapter is a switching power supply, it's drawing about half that current at 12v from the cigarette lighter.) A "modern" USB C port is allowed (technically) to deliver up to 5A, but no more. Me, I've never seen a phone, even with a USB C fast-charger, draw more than 2A. There's just no way a working USB charger could draw more than 3-4A amps from a cigarette lighter socket. More likely 1A (at 12v).

If the phone "drew more current than the socket's fuse is rated for," then the fuse would blow and it would draw no current. That's what a fuse does.

I can't imagine Saluka's problems have anything to do with a USB charger. Whatever you do, DON'T use a larger fuse, DON'T try to put in larger wire. Toyota designed the whole electrical system from end to end; switching wires (to carry more current) is just going to make another part catch on fire.

2ToyGuy

I didn't mean to indicate he should put a bigger wire from the CIG fuse to the socket, or put a bigger fuse in that slot. I was trying to say that that was exactly the wrong thing to do, but a lazy person, or one that doesn't know better, might.
I imagine that the USB is probably adequate for the task, and was maybe bad. MAYBE. I would use a wired in USB connector, made for modern phones, not one that plugs into the cigarette lighter socket. All it takes is some dirt or corrosion on the plug in USB's center pin in the back, or the blades that mate the outer shield of the socket, and it will draw too much current for the fuse to handle.
I know the 87 trucks use the same fuse for the cigarette lighter and radio. It's a possibility that the PO put in an after market radio. I have a few times. It may draw more current than the original radio, not enough to blow the fuse, but couple that with the current draw of the plug in USB, especially if it has a little dirt or corrosion on it, and PFFFT! Blown fuse.

I would tap straight off the battery, with the right rating fuse for the particular USB connector in the wire someplace. A "wired in" USB port will most likely have the correct fuse rating it needs in the instructions for installation some place.
That, or tap off the 35A fusible link, so you have the FL, AND the fuse in your wire, to protect the circuit.
A "wired in" USB would be a lot more reliable than one that uses the cigarette lighter socket for a source. The socket isn't all that tight, and allows the plug in USB to possibly rattle out while driving. A wired in USB can't rattle out. Yes, you would have to cut a hole in the dash for it, but I feel the benefits would outweigh the disadvantage of cutting a small hole some place.
I personally, in both my 87's, don't use anything that plugs in to the cigarette lighter socket. I've had to replace the fuse too many times, for too many different reasons, to want to mess with it any longer. I always make sure anything I want to add, like a USB connector, is a "wired in" sort of item, and that I tap off the mains someplace already protected, and make sure I put a fuse in the circuit as well. Never had a lick of trouble, doing things that way.
That's one reason I love the Marine battery terminals. I can add a wired in component directly to the battery with only a large enough ring terminal. If I want to remove, or disable the component, for whatever reason, it slides off quick and easy. Yes, I always use the fuse rated for whatever is in the circuit.

Have fun!
Pat☺