Pics coming....

While trying to figure out what the heck is going on with my 86 4runner as listed in THIS POST I noticed my EGR valve was missing a vac hose on the section of the tube...not sure what went there anyways. Plus the thing isn't working to boot. While looking at some of my vacuum diagrams I started seeing how many hoses are basically part of this system...quite a few.

Now correct me if I'm wrong, but dumping the EGR and putting in block off plates will allow me to disconnect both hoses going to the BSV and get rid of the EGR vaccuum modulator and it's related hoses. So actually that section of metal tubes can be eliminated as well and really unclutter things. Which will leave me with having to plug the two ports from the throttle body and that's it. Correct?

I'll continute this tomorrow with pics!

 

and if the egr valve isn't connected, and isn't "leaking" into the intake, blocking off the egr isn't required.

 

it'll just cause you to dump excessive NOx emissions, possibly unburned HC, and otherwise contribute to global warming and acid rain....

and in the mean time, have the pics ready before you start the thread. it's just good netiquette.

 

so long as you don't have any issues with overheating, it sounds like a plan!

I unhooked mine once before, but I noticed my temps started climbing, so I hooked it back up...

 

But it does wonders to remove all that mess of vac lines and makes accessing things a lot easier. Less BS, less to go wrong.
Acid rain in Iowa? Watching modded diesels spewing giant streams of blacksmoke my guilt quickly diminishes.

 

On the early 22re we don't have that EGR sensor so it's simplified a bit. Here are the two block off plates I made from 1/2" steel. Painted to look purty...well actually so they wouldn't rust.


Gasket and gooped and installed using factory hardware, pretty simple.


I'm going to organize wiring/vac lines once I've put some miles on it and checked MPG and see how it performs. But I got rid of obviously the EGR valve, the vacuum modulator and all the associated vac lines. Pretty much everything that was hooked to those metal vac lines, which I'll remove later on. The bi-metal switch (BSV) I just left in because it's not leaking coolant so it acts as a plug anyways. Ran out of caps so I just looped the two leftover ports on the TB.

Also I did away with all the vac lines for AC idle/ps idle control, I don't have AC comp hooked up and so far no real noticeable effect from the ps anyways. Anything I can do to make for less troubleshooting is good in my book.



So how does it run? WOW-AMAZING!!! 3rd gear chirps now...ok not really. The only noticeable difference was the idle is a bit smoother, haven't put on enough miles to notice anything else. Runs at the normal operating temp, no pinging... I'm pretty religious about checking my gas mileage and have been averaging 18-19 with most of that being on the highway. We'll see what happens in that regards.

 

well, I'm very interested to see how this works out for you!

scribed!


btw, you have the t-stat housing I've been looking all over for; one with the temp probe in it so I can hook a temp gauge up, as mine does not have the probe there being a 91... what's the full stats on your truck? year, Cal or Fed, manual or auto, etc...


well after reading, I see 86, and would probably be a manual considering the 3rd-gear-chirp phrase

 

I may have lied a bit about that 3rd gear chirp...2nd gear too. It's a manual, no smog.

If it works out without any problems I'm going to find another upper and TB, remove all the unused vac ports weld them all shut, blend it in so it looks stock and less cluttered. One of those "when I'm bored" things to do.

 

I removed all that stuff years ago and never had any issues. Here's a picture of how the engine looked with everything gone.



Here is the info that I used to do it, and some of the pictures, etc.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...8&pp=25&page=2

From the article:

When removing the EGR stuff this is the basics to it. The blue item is the EGR. The red item is the formed steel vacuum line run. the green is the egr vacuum modulator. so basically almost every hose to these can get removed. You will need to make (2) block off plates for the egr, one for the head and one for the back of the plenum. or buy them from LCEngineering.



Then you can move the vacuum solenoid to the back of the plenum since there is no not egr back there and that helps clean off the top of the engine. Note, the wiring harness is long enough so you shouldn't have to cut into it.



Then you can also remove the temperature sensor goody that controls the egr modulator and install a metric pipe plug.

EDIT by me: There is a plug in either the side of the block, or the back (near the clutch) that can be used to cap off the old unit, if you have an extra block laying around.



Forgot about this: This is the idle speed up valve (purple) for the AC and power steering. The blue lines run over to the Power steering. The yellow lines connect the vavle to the solenoid (green) for the the AC idle speed up button in the cab.

All of this can be removed if you don't want / see a need for the idle speed up. I could never get my didle to change when turning the steering wheel and I was seeting my idle high so to clean up the clutter I had removed all of this. but now I put it back on (except the blue lines) for a increasing my idle for rock crawling and I just unplug the ac clutch..

 

That's a good writeup, thanks! The only thing I've noticed is that my CEL comes on and stays on for awhile until I basically coast for awhile/ off the throttle completely. Now it did this before, but would come on while driving and flip off after 30 seconds or so. Still the same code 5 of oxygen sensor open/closed, rich/lean which is really vague. Could be AFM or the sensor. Thinking I'll replace it and just see what happens.

 

I never had any CEL issues. You might want to check your O2 sensor, I was having some driveablity issues a year or two afterwards and had the same code (I think). I changed the O2 sensor and it ran great, with no codes.

 

Wanna sell your A/C setup?

 

The compressor is shot and it's unknown if the the condensor is leak free otherwise I would.

 

AJsArmor-
did you ever get rid of that breather on the valve cover and hook that port on the valve cover back up to the port (the one wrapped in white tape) on the throttle body like it's supposed to be?

 

Yup! I still have a CEL but haven't had the time to figure it out. Put in a new O2 sensor, didn't make a bit of difference. I'm pretty sure it's the afm. It only does it when at highway speed, never in town and shuts off when I come to a stop.

 

any reason you guys think using aluminum to make the egr delete plates is a bad idea? i have 1/8" aluminum sheet to make the plates with.

 

Aluminum has a different rate of expansion than iron or steel.
Other than that, if the EGR valve has been rendered non-operational, I don't see any reason to remove it.
Kind of like going through the trouble of removing the gas lines to the clothes drier because you don't have a clothes drier.

 

You need to remove that little breather on your valve cover and hook up the stock hose the way it was factory, with that installed you are letting unmetered air into the intake and that will cause a miss, bad idle or loss of power.

The third picture posted by DIRTCO is wrong, that valve controls vacuum to the fuel presure regulator, you can remove the electric vacuum valve, but the hose comming off the fuel presure needs to be conected to a vacuum source on the intake.

 

very nice thread! i plan on doing this to my 89 on the build thread im doing currently.seems to give the enginebay a cleaner look and get rid of all the vacuum lines and egr

 

I am going to remove my EGR today before I install my motor. I would also like to get rid of all the hoses and crap from under the intake that run over to the exhaust manifold. But have seen some conflicting info out there on that.