4WD seems to be binding?
#1
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4WD seems to be binding?
so i fixxed all my brakes and other little problems on my 87 4 runner turbo! like timing chain and turbo rebuild!
so i went to throw it into 4wd and wow pulls super hard to the right over 15 mph and won't roll down a hill like the brakes are on
so i take i have some binding problems?
any help here i'm new to 4x4 trucks!
so i went to throw it into 4wd and wow pulls super hard to the right over 15 mph and won't roll down a hill like the brakes are on
so i take i have some binding problems?
any help here i'm new to 4x4 trucks!
#3
Even if you had it in 4wd on road, it would not act like that. I would be checking gear ratios, perhaps someone in the past has swapped them out, and they are mismatched. That would cause the very problem you are describing.
Does it only do it in 4wd, or all the time? If all the time, you likely put something in/on wrong when doing the brakes.
Does it only do it in 4wd, or all the time? If all the time, you likely put something in/on wrong when doing the brakes.
#4
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um, do you have it in 4lo or 4hi ?
oh, and you can drive on the street in 4hi, not 4lo, just keep it under 50mph(that's what the manufacturer says anyway) I don't personally do it as I deem it usless, and would probably be more wear and tear than I care for, and it's just probably not a good idea if you don't have to
one of my idiot friends had mommy and daddy buy him a new tacoma a few years back, and he used to put it in 4hi when it was raining (I live around seattle)
your gear ratios (front and rear) are possibly mismatched (like previously stated) do you have anyway of contacting the previous owner? he might have forgotten to mention a few things, locker maybe?
(i don't know why you would have mismatched gear ratios unless someone put a locker or lim slip in the back and changed the ring&pinion, unless at sometime they "fixed" something that was wrong or broken in the rear axle and used the wrong ratio)
not sure what you mean by "binding"
does it make any funny noises?
oh, and you can drive on the street in 4hi, not 4lo, just keep it under 50mph(that's what the manufacturer says anyway) I don't personally do it as I deem it usless, and would probably be more wear and tear than I care for, and it's just probably not a good idea if you don't have to
one of my idiot friends had mommy and daddy buy him a new tacoma a few years back, and he used to put it in 4hi when it was raining (I live around seattle)
your gear ratios (front and rear) are possibly mismatched (like previously stated) do you have anyway of contacting the previous owner? he might have forgotten to mention a few things, locker maybe?
(i don't know why you would have mismatched gear ratios unless someone put a locker or lim slip in the back and changed the ring&pinion, unless at sometime they "fixed" something that was wrong or broken in the rear axle and used the wrong ratio)
not sure what you mean by "binding"
does it make any funny noises?
#6
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What you describe sounds like mismatched gear ratios.
As far as driving on the street in 4lo Vs. 4hi, they have nothing to do with street driving. 4low just means you can't go very fast. You stress the drive train when you try to turn on high traction surfaces like dry pavement in 4wd. You don't stress it nearly as hard as a truck with lockers on a trail will but the amount of time you stress it can generate a lot of heat which can lead to a failure or premature wear.
Frank
As far as driving on the street in 4lo Vs. 4hi, they have nothing to do with street driving. 4low just means you can't go very fast. You stress the drive train when you try to turn on high traction surfaces like dry pavement in 4wd. You don't stress it nearly as hard as a truck with lockers on a trail will but the amount of time you stress it can generate a lot of heat which can lead to a failure or premature wear.
Frank
#7
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Negative. Not at all.
You cannot drive for extended periods of time on the street unless there is snow and ice without causing serious drivetrain failure, UNLESS you have a new model truck with full time 4wd, in which case you have a center diff.
You cannot drive for extended periods of time on the street unless there is snow and ice without causing serious drivetrain failure, UNLESS you have a new model truck with full time 4wd, in which case you have a center diff.
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#8
Rigs with actual full time 4x4 merely adds a "diff" in the transfer case so the drivelines can spin at different speeds when cornering.
#9
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How do you figure that? The front and rear (stock) are open diffs, so turning, they will not hurt the diffs. Straight or mostly straight driving will not bind the drivetrain, and if you are turning tight engough to get that minor bind, you are not moving that fast anyways. The transfer case, axles, and drivelines are more than up to the task of handling full time 4x4. During snow season here in WA, i regularly drive with my hubs engaged, and often in 4HI. And we dont get much ice/snow on the road.
Rigs with actual full time 4x4 merely adds a "diff" in the transfer case so the drivelines can spin at different speeds when cornering.
Rigs with actual full time 4x4 merely adds a "diff" in the transfer case so the drivelines can spin at different speeds when cornering.
one thing alot of those people [with them thar fancy AWD and full time 4wd doohickeys] forget about is that all that traction only helps you go, not so much with the stoppie stoppie
And I also agree with the note about stock open diffs and driving on the road, but obviously the originator (new arnold movie?) of this thread doesn't know what is in his truck, and possibly he has a limited slip, detroit or something and doesn't know it (too bad we have 3rd members and no diff covers that can easily be popped off to take a look) he should just keep it out of 4wd (esp on the pavement) until he figures out what he's got, or takes it to a 4x4 shop so they can tell him if his gear ratios even match
Personally, I think his muffler bearings are shot
Last edited by b.miller123; 11-02-2007 at 10:51 PM.
#10
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How do you figure that? The front and rear (stock) are open diffs, so turning, they will not hurt the diffs. Straight or mostly straight driving will not bind the drivetrain, and if you are turning tight engough to get that minor bind, you are not moving that fast anyways. The transfer case, axles, and drivelines are more than up to the task of handling full time 4x4. During snow season here in WA, i regularly drive with my hubs engaged, and often in 4HI. And we dont get much ice/snow on the road.
Rigs with actual full time 4x4 merely adds a "diff" in the transfer case so the drivelines can spin at different speeds when cornering.
Rigs with actual full time 4x4 merely adds a "diff" in the transfer case so the drivelines can spin at different speeds when cornering.
You've had a different experience than both the people i've known who've done that. I know two different people who've driven in 4wd in 4runners. Both blew their transfer cases within a month. One had it repaired by a private mechanic, the other by Toyota. Both places diagnosed the cause as driving in 4wd on dry pavement.
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ah i was only testing all the systems in the truck to make sure every thing was ok after i did my brakes! i don;t plan on ever using 4wd unless its snowing / icey!
but i just kinda felt very wrong like if i did drive it in snow i would driving it side ways or flipping the truck on its side!.
so forgot to add that it feels alot stiffer on the pass side in 4wd and vibs alot more like some thing is fighting
i plan on throwing it on 4 stands today and spinning spinning the front end by hand to check other things
i'll try to check the ratio's for front and back
also the truck did sit for about 7 months ( only moved a little bit in his drive way) before i picked it up
but i just kinda felt very wrong like if i did drive it in snow i would driving it side ways or flipping the truck on its side!.
so forgot to add that it feels alot stiffer on the pass side in 4wd and vibs alot more like some thing is fighting
i plan on throwing it on 4 stands today and spinning spinning the front end by hand to check other things
i'll try to check the ratio's for front and back
also the truck did sit for about 7 months ( only moved a little bit in his drive way) before i picked it up
Last edited by AE86GTS; 11-03-2007 at 05:28 AM.
#14
Im not saying I really recommend driving a part time truck around with 4x4 engaged all the time, but i dont think its going to destroy the truck. Like I said, i've done it before, will all 3 of my trucks. I never abuse them, and wouldn't think of doing something I know would hurt em.
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So when you are turning, it wont bind.
Im not saying I really recommend driving a part time truck around with 4x4 engaged all the time, but i dont think its going to destroy the truck. Like I said, i've done it before, will all 3 of my trucks. I never abuse them, and wouldn't think of doing something I know would hurt em.
Im not saying I really recommend driving a part time truck around with 4x4 engaged all the time, but i dont think its going to destroy the truck. Like I said, i've done it before, will all 3 of my trucks. I never abuse them, and wouldn't think of doing something I know would hurt em.
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#18
Well the answer was already given, you just didn't read it. So let me put it to you again.
As you stated, it only does it in 4x4, with hubs engaged. The discussion that axleike and I have exactly pertains to your situation. Since the t-case is part time, one you have it in 4x4, the front and rear driveshaft are locked together. Thus, the front wheels turning will want to move at a different rate of speed than the rear wheels going straight. THATS where you get your binding from.
Its normal, since you have a gear drive part-time case, so no worries!
That OR
If it happens when going straight, you have different ratios in the diffs.
As you stated, it only does it in 4x4, with hubs engaged. The discussion that axleike and I have exactly pertains to your situation. Since the t-case is part time, one you have it in 4x4, the front and rear driveshaft are locked together. Thus, the front wheels turning will want to move at a different rate of speed than the rear wheels going straight. THATS where you get your binding from.
Its normal, since you have a gear drive part-time case, so no worries!
That OR
If it happens when going straight, you have different ratios in the diffs.
Last edited by DeathCougar; 11-03-2007 at 05:14 PM.
#19
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Well, I still disagree, but its your truck, and it really doesn't matter.
As for the OP's problem, i doubt very much this is a result of drivetrain binding due to simply running 4wd on pavement. Its possible, but not likely.
First lets do a couple "duh" checks. You have BOTH hubs locked, not just one, double checked? Second, You are running the SAME EXACT size, tire brand, tire life, front to rear, correct? As in, all the tires were purchased at the same time, and none of them were replaced.
As for the OP's problem, i doubt very much this is a result of drivetrain binding due to simply running 4wd on pavement. Its possible, but not likely.
First lets do a couple "duh" checks. You have BOTH hubs locked, not just one, double checked? Second, You are running the SAME EXACT size, tire brand, tire life, front to rear, correct? As in, all the tires were purchased at the same time, and none of them were replaced.
#20
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AE86GTS......
The resistance to rolling (like you have the brakes on) is normal....especially in Low 4wd. I can roll down fairly steep grades (namely my driveway) in L4 without ever having to apply the brakes. At some points, I even have to apply throttle to keep going. As far as what you're experiencing, the only problem I can see is the hard pulling to the right. So, if you don't have a brake seizing, it could be a CV axle or maybe the pass. side hub is not engaging. It's an odd problem you got there.....wish I could help more. It's really odd.....and even unlikely....you have different ratios between front and back, but it hurts nothing to check as suggested.
BTW, do you have manual or auto hubs?
The resistance to rolling (like you have the brakes on) is normal....especially in Low 4wd. I can roll down fairly steep grades (namely my driveway) in L4 without ever having to apply the brakes. At some points, I even have to apply throttle to keep going. As far as what you're experiencing, the only problem I can see is the hard pulling to the right. So, if you don't have a brake seizing, it could be a CV axle or maybe the pass. side hub is not engaging. It's an odd problem you got there.....wish I could help more. It's really odd.....and even unlikely....you have different ratios between front and back, but it hurts nothing to check as suggested.
BTW, do you have manual or auto hubs?