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4runner rear window repair walkthrough
07-12-2015 | 07:50 AM
#21
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Ever figure it out?
I have a 94 4Runner SR5 V6 and am replacing the tailgate window regulator because one of the plastic rollers at the end of the lift arm broke off. I fished out the two pieces of the roller and super glued them back together on the pin and that worked for awhile but it broke again. Since these rollers are not replaceable, I purchased a used regulator out of a 91 4Runner off of ebay. I installed it and when I roll up the window one side is noticeably lower than the other side and doesn't seal good on that side. (I think the roller broke because I might have cracked it when I replaced the rubber and metal channel that clamp to the bottom of the window a few months ago when one of them came off due to age/rust.)
On the used regulator, I noticed that the alignment marks on the gears where the lift arms mesh are one notch off as compared to my original regulator where the alignment marks are matching and I believe this is why one side is lower than the other with the replacement regulator.
So, the question (finally) - Is there any way to adjust this misalignment? For the life of me I can't see how to make any adjustment as everything seems to be solidly riveted together. Or how they could even get out of alignment in the first place, except from the factory. The ebay seller says there was no problem in the 91 4Runner this regulator came out of.
Thanks in advance for any advice/help.
Regards
On the used regulator, I noticed that the alignment marks on the gears where the lift arms mesh are one notch off as compared to my original regulator where the alignment marks are matching and I believe this is why one side is lower than the other with the replacement regulator.
So, the question (finally) - Is there any way to adjust this misalignment? For the life of me I can't see how to make any adjustment as everything seems to be solidly riveted together. Or how they could even get out of alignment in the first place, except from the factory. The ebay seller says there was no problem in the 91 4Runner this regulator came out of.
Thanks in advance for any advice/help.
Regards
07-12-2015 | 09:31 AM
#22
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Hi,
No, I never got this figured out. I even had to take it all apart again to replace the motor and even with the motor out and the tension off there didn't seem to be a way to adjust the alignment. Mine is only one tooth off so I'm just living with it. It seals good enough but still irks me everytime I see it going up crooked. Oh well...
No, I never got this figured out. I even had to take it all apart again to replace the motor and even with the motor out and the tension off there didn't seem to be a way to adjust the alignment. Mine is only one tooth off so I'm just living with it. It seals good enough but still irks me everytime I see it going up crooked. Oh well...
07-12-2015 | 10:59 AM
#23
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Hi,
No, I never got this figured out. I even had to take it all apart again to replace the motor and even with the motor out and the tension off there didn't seem to be a way to adjust the alignment. Mine is only one tooth off so I'm just living with it. It seals good enough but still irks me everytime I see it going up crooked. Oh well...
No, I never got this figured out. I even had to take it all apart again to replace the motor and even with the motor out and the tension off there didn't seem to be a way to adjust the alignment. Mine is only one tooth off so I'm just living with it. It seals good enough but still irks me everytime I see it going up crooked. Oh well...
That sucks. Mine is two teeth out. I guess if I ever figure it out I will let you know! Maybe I can find the assembly at a wrecker and just replace it.
Last edited by Terrys87; 08-20-2015 at 01:29 AM.
08-19-2015 | 10:45 AM
#24
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Recently I have the opposite issue of my window won't go down. I tripped the motor by disconnecting it and connecting it to a 12V battery. Window motor seems to be working fine and the tracks looks to be clear. I believe both theswitch and keyhole are not sending a signal to the motor in order for the window to pull down, but it pulls up just fine with both. Any recommendations?
BTW it is a 94 limited edition if that matters?
BTW it is a 94 limited edition if that matters?
Last edited by alexander12m12; 08-19-2015 at 10:47 AM.
08-23-2015 | 04:45 AM
#26
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 435
Likes: 2
From: Anchorage, AK
x2. i fried one of my relay drivers trying to manually power them when the wiper wasn't parked completely. the module is not cheap either. luckily, i just threw in a spare fet i had laying around (and have electronics repair experience) it's not so much as an intorlock switch as that the rear wiper is a slave unit, unlike most integrated wiper actuator modules, and is an integral part of the rear power function controller module, which does everything but the tail lights, and has safety lockouts. another common issue is relay contact corrosion. to check this, you need to measure between the power in and positive switched window motor output. a good relay should show less than .02v difference with the window in motion. the relays can be found at radio shack. iirc, green/white and red/black to the window motor, and white/red- white/black for power and ground input (basically, the only 4 thick wires)
05-01-2016 | 12:55 PM
#27
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Nice work with the homemade window channel.
I came across a similar problem on my 94 4runner with both window channels being rusted completely to pot. I however don't have the tools/skills to build my own so I ordered new ones from toyota. Got everything apart with no problem.... However I've been beating my head against the garage wall for almost 2 days now trying to figure out what Chinese contortionist method I need to employ to get the new brackets and rubber onto the window. I've tried both with the rubber in the brackets then to attach the assembly to the window as well as tried first placing the rubber on the window and then pressing the metal channel assy. into place both to no avail. I tried using dish soapy water as a lubricant... got a little better results but nothing functional.
Searched through as many rear window posts as I could find this afternoon on here and it seems that everyone else simply had brackets already attached to windows or made their own. According to the parts guy at my local toyota dealership the rusting out of these brackets is relatively common place so I figure someone has to have run across a similar issue and overcome it without paying a dealer or window repair shop to put these two annoying little channel brackets on the window. ANY tips, hints, proven methods, or additional rants on the topic are well appreciated.
Why does it seem the simplest little fixes always cause the greatest headache?
I came across a similar problem on my 94 4runner with both window channels being rusted completely to pot. I however don't have the tools/skills to build my own so I ordered new ones from toyota. Got everything apart with no problem.... However I've been beating my head against the garage wall for almost 2 days now trying to figure out what Chinese contortionist method I need to employ to get the new brackets and rubber onto the window. I've tried both with the rubber in the brackets then to attach the assembly to the window as well as tried first placing the rubber on the window and then pressing the metal channel assy. into place both to no avail. I tried using dish soapy water as a lubricant... got a little better results but nothing functional.
Searched through as many rear window posts as I could find this afternoon on here and it seems that everyone else simply had brackets already attached to windows or made their own. According to the parts guy at my local toyota dealership the rusting out of these brackets is relatively common place so I figure someone has to have run across a similar issue and overcome it without paying a dealer or window repair shop to put these two annoying little channel brackets on the window. ANY tips, hints, proven methods, or additional rants on the topic are well appreciated.
Why does it seem the simplest little fixes always cause the greatest headache?
06-01-2016 | 10:27 AM
#29
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
From: Langley BC
The lift arm timing on my 85 regulator somehow got messed up taking it out. With regulator out of gate and motor taken off, I positioned arms so they were out of mesh, then moved back into mesh until all four (==) timing marks exactly lined up. Not hard but took a few tries to get them right.
08-16-2018 | 07:12 PM
#32
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Destroying the Channel with the rubber mallet
when you put the new rubbers and channels on the window using the Rubber mallet, it bends the channels there's no way to hit it without destroying the new channels. How did you beat it hard enough to get the channels on without destroying them. Am I totally missing something. Thanks for your help
08-19-2018 | 08:34 PM
#33
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 668
Likes: 100
From: exo-reality -wave if you see me; Front Range, CO
It took me and my son to put my new channels on.
Basically, yeah you gotta wail the bejeezus out of it. And for that stubborn part, I used a cut off (piece of hammer handle) wood, to set between the raised notch part and the flat parts, so it doesn't bend the tall portion.
And I used Dawn and put the rubber in the track first. Seemed to stretch too much with rubber on glass and then attempt to put channel on top of that. Get one side sort of started good, then alternate back and forth. Probably not the way smart folks do it , but at least I got them on.
Someone else asked how to get the channels off; I had one so rusty, it didn't take much, but replaced both. (My 95 has 3 pieces; 94 I stole the glass from only had two; one on each side.) But I took a cut off saw and cut a bunch of the good one off. Was scared to break it (that bronze glass is $$$).
Basically, yeah you gotta wail the bejeezus out of it. And for that stubborn part, I used a cut off (piece of hammer handle) wood, to set between the raised notch part and the flat parts, so it doesn't bend the tall portion.
And I used Dawn and put the rubber in the track first. Seemed to stretch too much with rubber on glass and then attempt to put channel on top of that. Get one side sort of started good, then alternate back and forth. Probably not the way smart folks do it , but at least I got them on.
Someone else asked how to get the channels off; I had one so rusty, it didn't take much, but replaced both. (My 95 has 3 pieces; 94 I stole the glass from only had two; one on each side.) But I took a cut off saw and cut a bunch of the good one off. Was scared to break it (that bronze glass is $$$).
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