3vze Timing Belt Job
#21
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I made a tool using the PS pulley as a template. I bolted it to the crank pulley using the bolts from the PS pulley. The way i drilled the holes, it the tool rests against the frame, so that the crank will stay at the 0 mark on the no 1 cover. Im not sure if that even matters since its keyed and you can just put it back there when you put the pulley back on. It worked great! pic:
#23
oh yeah i was going to post what happened to my socket extender
SNAP :'(
haha should have known...
Also wanted to ask, is something wrong with my clutch, since it was slipping ( i think ) when the truck was in gear (5th and 3rd) and i tried to remove the crank bolt? It was resisting, but it WAS slipping..
SNAP :'(
haha should have known...
Also wanted to ask, is something wrong with my clutch, since it was slipping ( i think ) when the truck was in gear (5th and 3rd) and i tried to remove the crank bolt? It was resisting, but it WAS slipping..
Last edited by pyromjm; 08-16-2007 at 05:49 PM.
#24
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Don't know about your clutch. I have no experiance working on manuals, so I dunno. Maybe somebody else will chime in. Sorry.
#25
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Location: Canmore AB Canada
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Hey all,
Thought I'd chime in here since no one's mentioned it, but regarding removing the crankshaft bolt - I went ahead and bought the factory service tool at a small auto parts store for $35, the one for holding the cams steady when removing the cam bolts.
This Factory service tool also works to hold the crank too when removing the 181 ft/lb torqued bolt!
Maybe I'm stating something that everyone knows already, but I haven't seen it mentioned....
This thread has a picture of the tool
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ebuild-122151/
Steve
Thought I'd chime in here since no one's mentioned it, but regarding removing the crankshaft bolt - I went ahead and bought the factory service tool at a small auto parts store for $35, the one for holding the cams steady when removing the cam bolts.
This Factory service tool also works to hold the crank too when removing the 181 ft/lb torqued bolt!
Maybe I'm stating something that everyone knows already, but I haven't seen it mentioned....
This thread has a picture of the tool
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ebuild-122151/
Steve
#26
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snelson, how is the quality of the SST you bought? the one you referred to is a Matco that I borrowed and is extremely solid but the cheaper ones i saw on ebay and whatnot looked flimsy.
#27
water pump install
Putting the new water pump on, what kind of packing seal do i use? Do i use that with the gasket? or is it one or the other?
In order to change the upper idler pulley, do you have to remove the cam sprockets? I dont want to do that
In order to change the upper idler pulley, do you have to remove the cam sprockets? I dont want to do that
Last edited by pyromjm; 08-16-2007 at 11:47 PM.
#28
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I'm pretty sure the cam sprockets have to come off. I think you ened the top timing belt covers off to get to the idler pulley, and to get the timing belt covers off the cam sprockets need to come off. Although, maybe it works with only taking off the small center timing belt cover before you can get to the upper idler pulley. Can't remember but it should be pretty easy to see once you're in there if it works or not.
#29
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If all you're doing is replacing the water pump, timing belt, idler pulley, and any other front end components do not worry about those cam sprockets. The only reason they'd ever have to come off is if you're replacing the seals (because of leakage) and/or servicing the heads. Otherwise, leave them alone. The backing plate behind the idler pulley will have to come off, and....obviously....so will the the front timing cover. That backing plate comes off seperately from the rear timing cover.....which does not need to come off unless you're servicing the top end.
As far as the water pump, the gasket is all you should need. Unless, you want to apply a little packing material to help keep the gasket in place upon installation. Even then, it's not really necessary.
As far as the water pump, the gasket is all you should need. Unless, you want to apply a little packing material to help keep the gasket in place upon installation. Even then, it's not really necessary.
#30
Is packing materal the same as liquid gasket?
I removed the center part from the rear timing belt cover, the on in front of the upper idler pulley, but where the idler pulley is bolted down is impossible to get to... It seems like the only way is to take off a BUNCH of other stuff off the top near the manifold.
I removed the center part from the rear timing belt cover, the on in front of the upper idler pulley, but where the idler pulley is bolted down is impossible to get to... It seems like the only way is to take off a BUNCH of other stuff off the top near the manifold.
#32
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Good luck!
#33
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Hey Blurr,
It's super tough - you could club a whale with this thing - it's exactly the same as the one linked above. Here's the link to the canadian tire store where I bought mine...
It's super tough - you could club a whale with this thing - it's exactly the same as the one linked above. Here's the link to the canadian tire store where I bought mine...
#34
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Did your new pump not come with a gasket? Well, regardless, the packing material is FIPG (form in place gasket). So, yeah, liquid gasket material. The FIPG is what Toyota offers.....apparently the bomb. Use it if you can get it.
You can get back there for the idler pulley if you pull the plenum and squeeze back there with a deep socket and wobbley extension. To pull the plenum, you don't have to remove all the vacuum lines on the passenger side....in this case, anyway.
Oh, and as I recall, the main obstacle is the fuel line. If you don't have the wobbly the steel line will tolerate a little flexing, but not much. So, you may have to just pull it off from the fuel rails.
You can get back there for the idler pulley if you pull the plenum and squeeze back there with a deep socket and wobbley extension. To pull the plenum, you don't have to remove all the vacuum lines on the passenger side....in this case, anyway.
Oh, and as I recall, the main obstacle is the fuel line. If you don't have the wobbly the steel line will tolerate a little flexing, but not much. So, you may have to just pull it off from the fuel rails.
Last edited by thook; 08-17-2007 at 12:16 PM.
#36
Got everything back together and took it for a road test.
After it was warm, the idle was rEAlly low... died on me one time even while not moving.. Did i forget to plug something in somewhere?
After it was warm, the idle was rEAlly low... died on me one time even while not moving.. Did i forget to plug something in somewhere?
#37
Did some searching, TNRAbbit says it might be because of a 'thumpty thump' amp putting strain on the alternator, ill try turning that off.. But i have never had this problem before, even with the amp. Ill also try adjusting the warm idle screw.
#39
Registered User
If you can't figure it out soon enough, try and post a pic or two of the top end paying attention to the vacuum lines and electrical connections.
Last edited by thook; 08-19-2007 at 11:24 AM.