3VZE Ticking At Constant Throttle
#21
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Most likely it is valve tap, the lifter are solid. My 92 does the same thing, I need to adjust the valve lash. After I adjusted the valves on my old 89 it was very quiet, except for evenly ticking fuel injectors (much quieter than the ticking valves before the adjustment).
When i researched the only way to adjust 3vze valves is with shims correct me if i am wrong.
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#23
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Not sure if anyone has mentioned this yet, but you may want to check the gasket that goes around the steering shaft and bolts to the inside of the firewall. I had a bad tick that was pretty bad in the cab..which I have yet to figure out...but replacing that gasket (was $11 at the dealer) solved the cab noise. Good luck with the tick
#24
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mine does the same thing at 2200 rpm, under load only. ive rapped the rpms to 6k a couple of times it will go away for a minute but it comes back. it wont do it if you rev the motor without load. With my trouble shooting experience. most complicated issues have the most simple solutions. im going to try the marvels mystery oil. in the crankcase. then in the gas.
#25
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I have the same tick on the driver's side, however it seems to come and go. I have listened, read, thought, read some more... sure seems like the 3vze is simply prone to some ticking. Fuel injectors, exhaust leaks, sticky lifters, burnt valves where the crossover converges on cylinder #6... lots of possibilities.
As I have replaced a few odds and ends over time, notably the valve cover gaskets, oil cooler gaskets and distributor O-ring, I have noticed a fair amount of varnish build up in the motor. I believe that my ticking is a lifter (or 2) sticking based on what I have read and seen so far.
Much is written about engine flushes and oil additives. It appears that Seafoam is quite popular currently. I used to use Marvel Mystery Oil in a 65 Mustang with a 289 and 190K miles to quiet noisy lifters with some success. I don't want to get into anything too radical flushing the engine for fear of clogging the oil pump intake screen with goo, but decided to try some MMO in the 4Runner. At my last oil change, I poured in 5 quarts of Valvoline 10W30. But the 3vze takes about 5 and 1/3 quarts in terms of oil capacity. So I put 1/3 quart of MMO to work toward a more gradual removal of said goo. I checked my oil after 500 miles and it was considerably darker than the clear amber color I typically find after only 500 miles. So it does appear to have dissolved some of that varnish I think. I plan to change the oil after 1500 miles rather than 3000, with a new filter of course, then repeat. So far the lifter noise has quieted considerably. I hear an occassional tick, but nothing so regular as I had been hearing.
So far so good. Let me also add that my experiment is just that, an experiment. Any of these additives in my opinion are bandaids. The best way to really fix this in a high mileage 3vze engine is to pull the heads and have them cleaned, machined and repaired with correctly adjusted valves/shims etc. That may well be this spring's project in the driveway.
At least for a minute though, MMO has decreased the ticking in my situation.
As I have replaced a few odds and ends over time, notably the valve cover gaskets, oil cooler gaskets and distributor O-ring, I have noticed a fair amount of varnish build up in the motor. I believe that my ticking is a lifter (or 2) sticking based on what I have read and seen so far.
Much is written about engine flushes and oil additives. It appears that Seafoam is quite popular currently. I used to use Marvel Mystery Oil in a 65 Mustang with a 289 and 190K miles to quiet noisy lifters with some success. I don't want to get into anything too radical flushing the engine for fear of clogging the oil pump intake screen with goo, but decided to try some MMO in the 4Runner. At my last oil change, I poured in 5 quarts of Valvoline 10W30. But the 3vze takes about 5 and 1/3 quarts in terms of oil capacity. So I put 1/3 quart of MMO to work toward a more gradual removal of said goo. I checked my oil after 500 miles and it was considerably darker than the clear amber color I typically find after only 500 miles. So it does appear to have dissolved some of that varnish I think. I plan to change the oil after 1500 miles rather than 3000, with a new filter of course, then repeat. So far the lifter noise has quieted considerably. I hear an occassional tick, but nothing so regular as I had been hearing.
So far so good. Let me also add that my experiment is just that, an experiment. Any of these additives in my opinion are bandaids. The best way to really fix this in a high mileage 3vze engine is to pull the heads and have them cleaned, machined and repaired with correctly adjusted valves/shims etc. That may well be this spring's project in the driveway.
At least for a minute though, MMO has decreased the ticking in my situation.
Last edited by Wrenchinjoe; 11-24-2009 at 08:08 AM.
#26
mine does the same thing, but only under load. it's pretty loud at times. I keep thinking it's going to all come apart. I just purchased a 1994 4runner with 156000 miles for 2000.00. should i be concerned with the tapping noise?
mike
mike
#27
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Unless its a rod knock or predetonation (pinging), which are both different than a tick of course lol, you really don't have much to worry about. Both of the 3wheezys I owned ticked, loud as hell when climbing PA mountains, and both live on. One I sold to a guy with 212k miles on the motor and he swapped it into his truck with 33's and a bunch of lift, it still goes on, and the other I sold as a whole with the truck it came in and its still going with over 205k miles.
Everyone frets, but if you're convinced its more than the injectors (known to be extremely noisy in these trucks), adjust your valves. It probably wouldn't hurt to do them anyways, and nearly everyone that has done it reports slightly better power and fuel economy and a definite but minor reduction in the ticking sound.
Bottom line is, these trucks tick, and if its running good and you hear no knocking or pinging, I would say you shouldn't have too much to worry about
#31
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I rebuilt my 3vze a little over 3 years & 34,000 miles ago. It had 218,000 miles on the clock at that time. ALL the valve clearances were within spec after having the heads resurfaced & valves done. I'm running at 252,000 miles now and the valves have NEVER been adjusted to my knowledge. I use synthetic oil exclusively & attribute that to the practically zero wear in my engine. The cylinder walls showed NO WEAR when mic'd & the original crosshatching was clearly visible.
Unless you've had oil starvation issues, I doubt there's much wear on your valvetrain. I'd suspect other issues LONG before valve clearances being out of whack. A valve adjustment on the 3vze is a total & complete PITA which requires removing the plenum & a mile of vacuum hoses~
Fuel injectors are the main culprit; I'd suspect the fuel pressure regulator second.
Unless you've had oil starvation issues, I doubt there's much wear on your valvetrain. I'd suspect other issues LONG before valve clearances being out of whack. A valve adjustment on the 3vze is a total & complete PITA which requires removing the plenum & a mile of vacuum hoses~
Fuel injectors are the main culprit; I'd suspect the fuel pressure regulator second.
#32
If in fact it is the fuel injectors ,what would the fix be? I put a quart of Lucas in and still didn't help. This morning I noticed that the transmission when cold doesn't want to shift into overdrive and tacs up near 4500 at 50 mph . I checked the fluids and its hard to read . Could the fluid being low cause this shifting issue? it seems to go away when the engine is warm up . Help .
Mike
Mike
#34
I rebuilt my 3vze a little over 3 years & 34,000 miles ago. It had 218,000 miles on the clock at that time. ALL the valve clearances were within spec after having the heads resurfaced & valves done. I'm running at 252,000 miles now and the valves have NEVER been adjusted to my knowledge. I use synthetic oil exclusively & attribute that to the practically zero wear in my engine. The cylinder walls showed NO WEAR when mic'd & the original crosshatching was clearly visible.
Unless you've had oil starvation issues, I doubt there's much wear on your valvetrain. I'd suspect other issues LONG before valve clearances being out of whack. A valve adjustment on the 3vze is a total & complete PITA which requires removing the plenum & a mile of vacuum hoses~
Fuel injectors are the main culprit; I'd suspect the fuel pressure regulator second.
Unless you've had oil starvation issues, I doubt there's much wear on your valvetrain. I'd suspect other issues LONG before valve clearances being out of whack. A valve adjustment on the 3vze is a total & complete PITA which requires removing the plenum & a mile of vacuum hoses~
Fuel injectors are the main culprit; I'd suspect the fuel pressure regulator second.
#35
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If in fact it is the fuel injectors ,what would the fix be? I put a quart of Lucas in and still didn't help. This morning I noticed that the transmission when cold doesn't want to shift into overdrive and tacs up near 4500 at 50 miles per hour . I checked the fluids and its hard to read . Could the fluid being low cause this shifting issue? it seems to go away when the engine is warm up . Help .
Mike
Mike
Not much you can do about a ticking injector except replace it.
4500 rpm @ 50 mph?!? HOLY CRAP~
#36
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hey guys... sorry for bringing back an old thread. so I have a similar problem. It is a rebuilt 3vze with about 10,000 on it. when I first start it when it is cold it will make this ticking noise until it is warm (which doesn't take long on the 3vze). It will also only make it from the idle RPM to about 2000 rpm. It also has absolutely no power until it is warm and wants to die for a second when giving it gas. It is like it doesn't have enough fuel or air but just for a second. I am kinda thinking it is a mix between the cold start injector and the normal injectors. I have 3 rebuilt injectors that are very new and 3 that have about 350,000 miles on them. Do you think this could be the cause? I just hope to God that it isn't a problem with the valves. I don't think it is but I think ill do a compression check on it tomorrow just so i can sleep better at night knowing I'm not going to screw up my engine.
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Bringing back this thread. I felt the fuel rail to find that ticking and the ticking gets more apparent as you move closer to the fuel pressure regulator. Ok, so the fuel pressure regulator is bad, but how can it fail to the point where it ticks like that? Would this also account for poor gas mileage? Responses are appreciated.
#39
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Bringing back this thread. I felt the fuel rail to find that ticking and the ticking gets more apparent as you move closer to the fuel pressure regulator. Ok, so the fuel pressure regulator is bad, but how can it fail to the point where it ticks like that? Would this also account for poor gas mileage? Responses are appreciated.