YotaSyclone

So I just replaced the 3.0 engine in my 92 Toyota 4x4 pickup 5 speed after hydro locking my original 3.0, breaking a rod and putting a hole in the block. I finally got the engine in that had come out of a wrecked but running Toyota 4runner. The problem is now that cylinders #1 and #6 are not firing. I pulled the plug wires for those 2 cylinders which make no difference in how it runs. All the others make a difference when I pull them. The only thing I could think of was the fact that I used the distributor off my blown engine, which was a little bit different than the 4runner distributor. The caps were different, and the connectors to the distributor were different. That's why I changed them, so the original harness would fit. Now there is spark coming from #1 and #6 from the dist. When I pull the plug wires from #1 and #6 its arcs across until I get it far enough away. I did change the plugs on those 2 cylinders to see if its was the plugs. No difference. I also put brand new plug wires on. No difference. The spark plugs appear to be moist with gas. So I think its getting fuel. I used the same injectors from my blown engine that worked perfectly fine, and never pulled them from the fuel rail to begin with. So I dont understand what's going on. Everything is hooked up except the 2 PS pump vacuum lines which are temporarily capped off. All I can think of is maybe the distributor isn't working for this engine since the other one was slightly different. If someone could point me in the right direction that would be awesome. I really need this thing back on the road asap before the snow really starts to hit.

YotaSyclone

So I did a compression test.. All cylinders except #1 and #6 are in the 160-170 PSI range. #1 is at 150, and #6 about 15 PSI... of course after all that work. Should have checked the engine more before installing it. There is some hope though. I pressure tested #6 with ALL spark plugs removed, with the intake and exhaust valves closed. With about 120 PSI forced into #6 I could clearly feel and hear air coming out the exhaust, along with air coming out the #4 spark plug hole. No air is coming out the intake. I place a plug in #4 then air just coming out of the exhaust pipe. So it seems like theres a blown head gasket bridging #4 and #6 along with a non sealing exhaust valve on #6. I can also rotate all the valve shims with my finger except for #6 exhaust valve. So theres definitely an issue with that valve.

What I dont understand is the fact that #4 had about 160 PSI compression but air is bridging from the other cylinder. I guess I'll find out soon. I'm going to pull the heads, and replace them with the heads that came out of my other engine that go hydolocked.

jbtvt

Well hopefully the #4 exhaust valve is just open as well and the air is getting in there, rather than head gasket. #6 on this engine always burns the exhaust valves. Might want to shell out to get the valves and seats cut at a shop, or could try grinding yourself with some compound if not overly concerned about performance. I'd be surprised if your original #6 was much better unless you were religious about checking valve lash. If you do get machined, check for leaks before you bolt on. Had 2 heads now that 2 local machine shops messed up my valve seats on -
3VZ used 2 different distributors thoughout its run, although they were noticeably different if I recall, like shaft though head being different diameters I think. Probably best to stick with the one that came off the engine and solder on the necessary connectors

PS, that's naptha, not water in my ports, don't want to rust things and naptha evaporates clean

YotaSyclone

I leaked tested my heads before putting them on like you showed in your video. I finally got it all back together today and It runs amazing. That was a ˟˟˟˟load of work and I hope I never have to do that again. I was extremely careful on getting 5he mating surfaces extremely clean, and torquing everything to spec. I replaced all the gaskets, water pump and pulleys, and timing belt. So I shouldn't have any problems. Next time this engine takes a ˟˟˟˟ it's getting a 3.4L. This truck has definitely been through hell and back this past year. But I'll do everything I can to keep her going

Mclaws89

what years are the truck and engine? if it has anything at all to do with the distributor I have all your answers. the distributor wiring is not the same at all between the newer and older distributors of that generation engine. I have a thread called 3vze upgrade that has diagrams and pictures that will make it easy to know if you have the distributor right. I'll try and get a link when I am not on the flip phone

Mclaws89

Here is the link: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...pgrade-301888/

It looks like you have already taken it apart hunting other issues besides just the wiring but in the event that you want to revisit the distributor wiring i suggest this thread. maybe 3/4 the way through