J-Dog

So today started with this.....


After a couple of hours ended up with this....


I've decided to order a new aircon condenser and alternator. The main baring in the compressor is stuffed, and the pump was initially seized but managed to get it rotating but considering we get hot summers here in North Queensland (42 degrees Celsius + , 95% - 100% humidity) i'm opting for a new one...... The bearings in the alternator are also stuffed, I had replacement bearings on the shelf but after attempting to get the stupid main nut undone, I ended up hacking the main case instead....
Other issues were someone installed nice extractors back in the day, but decided to weld the entire exhaust system as a single piece rather having any flexible or flange joints. I cut the extractors, sand blasted and re-painted them and will weld in some flange joint on both sides so if the exhaust has to be removed for any reason, it can be done with ease...

J-Dog

Its alive, Its alive!
The last of the parts arrived like new spark plug leads, alternator and aircon compressor, hoses and belts.....
After priming up the oil system and getting oil pressure, installed plugs, connected leads and after a few cranks she fired up. Still have to sort a vacuum leak, exhaust leak, sort the ignition timing a little better and install the fan shroud on the radiator. The only drama is this vehicle runs both petrol and LPG so you need to tune and adjust everything to suit the fuel you want to mainly run which is LPG over the petrol.

coopster

Woohoo. I'll take a vicarious victory!
Awesome. Let me ask, because I've been trying to figure out how to do the same - How did you prime up the oil pressure? Or did you just crank with no spark?

Oh, and LPG? How did you accomplish that?

J-Dog

To prime any fresh motor after a rebuild, depending on the engine, I usually pack the new oil pump with Vaseline, fill the oil filter with oil (If possible), connect an oil pressure gauge and crank the motor with spark plugs removed. Crank motor over, stopping to let starter motor cool down. Once oil pressure gauge gives a reading at least 30psi, reconnect everything and start motor up.
I also use pre-assembly lube on all the bearings and cam break in lube on the camshaft and valve gear. Once the engine runs, I run it to at least 2500rpm for the first few minutes to help get oil to the upper valve train.
The lpg was installed by previous owner but a simple conversion that can be done by any licensed Automotive Lpg installer.