CoedNaked

Thanks guys for your info, I really appreciate it!

mullet man

this is an old topic but i found it useful with good info in it! i had to bring it back from the dead.

i'm looking into a 4x8 trailer for hauling up to 3 ATV's, 1 in the bed and up to 2 on the trailer.
looks like i should be fine as far as towing weight is concerned (i estimate it at ~1700lbs with 3 ATV's, trailer, gear and 1 passenger).


guys with 2nd or 3rd gen 3VZE/5spd 4x4 trucks, what ball mount do you use, 2", 4", 6" drop, none?
i have 31/10.5/15's 4x4 and dont want to order the wrong size. i am also kind of weary about the adjustable drop ball mounts...

some info on that would be much appreciated, as i am days away from ordering everything!

snap-on

i run about a 4" drop and 2" ball. My 5x10 utility trailer doesnt quite sit level but my pop-up does. (im running 31's and OME rear springs)

mullet man

thanks for the info.
what size wheels/tires are on your utility trailer?
the one i am looking at has 12" wheels and not sure on the tire size. (its just a cheapo Harbor Freight 1800lb tilt trailer)
i was thinking i would need either a 4" or 6" drop...

Azusacanyonbogger

i've got a 90 pickup 5 speed xtra cab, factory 4.88's with 35" muds 4" susp lift with a 3" body lift, gas mileage SUCKS 12mpg.. anyway, sometimes i tow a crx on a tow dolly. tows fine on flat ground.. just up hills i have to run it in 3rd gear to go about 70mph on the freeway. but not screaming just around 4200 - 4500 rpm in 3rd

snap-on

R15 with some old auto tires (not quite a low profile but its a shortish sidewall)

Ive toyed with the idea of lifting the trailer 2" and converting the hubs to run 6 bolt toyota spaceing so all my wheels are the same for spare tire issues.

92sr5yota

I have towed a pontaic lemanz about 6 miles. I have also towed lots of my buddys rigs out when stuck such as a ford f150 extended cab( so far that is the biggest i have towed)

mullet man

thats a good idea with the 6lug conversion.

i will probably need the 6" drop because of the smaller tire. i imagine the trailer would sit lower because of.
thanks again for the info

BC Rider

17 years of towing utility trailers.

1. 1990 V6 4x4 xtracab.
2. Mods - rear leafs - local shop - can't give specs, but towing stability much improved if your rear end stays up a bit.
3. Up to 5000 lbs, but more typically 2500 or so.
4. Truck fares well to 2500 lbs or so. At heavy weights you don't really want to do it.

Loads ranged to approximatelly 5000 lbs when hauling gravel for yard work, but I would not pull that for more than 10 kms.

Typically I haul about 2000 lbs or so. Not a problem to haul on the highway. Mods - broke a rear spring some years ago (likely during a gravel run). So put in some heavier ones.

Types of terain - typical TCH to Hope and some TCH through Golden and area (steep mountain roads) No problem but you need to drop a gear. You won't be passing too many tourists when you're towing.

aviator

I think mine is about a 2" drop running on factory suspension, trailer is basically a 5x8 running on standard small car tires [14-16"?]. trailer sits a [very] little bit nose high [from level] when empty but settles out when loaded. which IMO is just what you want.

Scofco

Sitting on OME HD rear springs. Tows great in town, but the highway isn't very tolerable.

abecedarian

Having worked in the RV and trailer industries a while ago, I'm just going to chime in with some basic info.
Any trailer with a gross weight rating of 1500 lbs or higher MUST have functional brakes, either electrically operated or hydraulic. Legally towing a trailer with electric brakes requires a brake controller installed in the tow vehicle regardless of whether the trailer is loaded or not. They must also have a 'break-away' system that engages the trailer brakes should the trailer become separated from the tow vehicle.
Safety chains are also a requirement for any trailer. If the trailer is equipped with dual safety chains (typically when the trailer gross weight is > 1000 lbs) they are to be crossed below the tongue and in such a way that they will catch the tongue to prevent the tongue from impacting the ground (that's a California regulation- seems to counter the whole break-away thing to me, but who am I?).
The tongue weight of a trailer should be 10-15% of the total weight and the weight should be distributed in such a way that 60% of the weight is in front of the mid-length of the trailer. That does not mean that 60% of the weight goes in front of the axle centerline. Some trailers are built with the axles shifted towards the rear in such a way to allow the trailer to be loaded evenly. Basically, if the axles are in the middle of the trailer, load the front heavier than the back. Keep in mind what I said about the 10-15% of the total weight of the trailer should be on the tongue so... if the load on the trailer is 3000 lbs, the tongue should weight 300-350 (give or take).
Avoid 'load-levelling' hitches unless absolutely necessary.
Use sway control hitches if you can't get the tongue to the proper weight or if the trailer has a high profile which is succeptible to cross winds.
Having a Class-5 (V) trailer hitch does not mean you can tow that much weight.

Keep in mind that towing limits by the manufacturer are designed to keep them from having to do repair work.

For the record, I watched a guy pull an 8.5' x 20' enclosed box trailer out of my trailer lot (way back when) with a Crown Victoria. I asked him to call me when he reached his destination. He told me the trailer pulled perfectly. And he followed my guidelines. (The trailer was for a 'door-slammer' dragster, so you know what he was carrying.)