Adawg_08

any pics? So with 4.88 & 33's it will be the about the same it is now?

Marc P

I ran 33x10.5's on stock wheels for a year, and never rubbed. I had BJ spacers and 1.5" Downey coils, and later switched to FJ80 coils. Worked perfect!!

With Downey coils


With Cruiser coils

GunNut

I had 33's x 10.5 on my 89 runner and it never rubbed. although once i ran 12.5's that's the only time it ever rubbed. The wheels I had them on had a 4" backspacing. Anything more than that would be questionable.

rocket

iTrader: (1)

wow, exactly one year ago: I had 33x10.50x15's WITH a 1" 4crawler body lift and both my fenders were destroyed from a stupid little ditch. I believe the same thing could of happened in rocks. I guess if your extra careful then no worries but theres always a possibility of the inevitable... https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/1-bl-33s-finally-hits-home-74800/ ...just something to think about.

ZUK

iTrader: (1)

I think the key to having "no rub issues" is adding the 33x10.50 tires to the factory alum wheels. I did this on my 87 Runner on the recommendation of Rogerthesnubber and I experienced no rub at all. All I had for a lift in the front was cranking the t-bars 1.5". And I flexed it good on some of the Arizona trails.....no rub and no fender mods.

Yoda

I traded tires with a guy that had 33 9.5 on a solid axle PU, cause his rubbed, and he hated the lack of power.

The 33's fit great on a FJ40

tc

Definitely. I don't think my 34x9.50 would rub if they were mounted on the factory rims - that extra 1/2" of bacspacing makes a HUGE difference.

isaac338

my 33x10.5 bfg a/ts are mounted on factory aluminum rims and they rub the pinch weld and valence going around corners and when the suspension is compressed. i still have to hammer the pinch weld and i've got balljoint spacers to install but neither of those things will help the rubbing on compression.. which i'm worried about for wheeling. we'll see i guess.

all_terrain17

I know this completely offtopic, but could somebody PLEASE explain why the BJ spacers won't help out at compression? The wheel's mounting point is spaced further from the upper arm, thus allowing greater more lift and more room for compression, (assuming tire size and T-bars are unchanged) NO MATTER what the suspension is doing, the increased distance between the center of the wheel and upper arm remains constant.

If the torsion bars were mounted to the LOWER arms then yes, BJ spacers would obviously become pointless, but I just do not understand other people's logic behind this.

If the spacers don't provide lift, won't help clear larger tires, and only place more stress on the steering linkage and CV's, what's the point??

[/Hijack off]

On a more related note, how would optimal BS change in comparison of a 10.5 to a 12.5 width tire?

gt0987

BJ spacers don't help on compression because the lower arm compresses to the same point with or without BJ spacers. If you want to reduce up travel you have to extend the bumpstop.

tj884Rdlx

does the ball joint spacer influence the center point of the wheel in relation to the path of travel of the control arm? if so, it moves the wheel's center lower, then the spacer contributes the thickness of the spacer to the amount of clearance at the top of the tire, right?

red89yota

Hey just crank the t-bars up enough so you have no shock compression and wheel like a chevy.(like a rock)

RobD

I just bought some 33x10.50s. I was looking at the 9.50s, but the tire rep said that they're discontinuing them. Something about people wanting great, big, freakishly wide tires now. Just a heads up that you might want to grab a couple extra in case you wreck yours.

Alex 400

would 34/9.50-15 on stock rims fit with bj spacers and rear lift coils?

Alex 400

bump

stormin94

I don't see the point in getting huge tires that are not wide. I would never get like 35-10.50's. It's just too much of a hassle to regear, and stuff, and I can't really find any real benefits to getting huge, skinny tires.

fork

tire diameter is probably most important. http://www.4x4now.com/sfjun96.htm is a good reason. notice the footprint is much more affected by the overall circumference of the tire than the width. the bigger the diameter the more traction when aired down. it's almost like a tracked vehicle at that point, only better for what we do because it conforms.

with that in mind, i run 32x11.50s and 35x15.50s I think width is also a good thing. i would rather have a tall wide tire than a tall skinny tire any day. but i think the tall skinny tire would be the best bang for your buck, because you probably wont need much of a lift and youll get the largest footprint for dollars spent.

tc

For the same amount of lift, you can fit a taller tire if it's narrower. The only effective way to get ground clearance under the diffs is taller tires. The argument of flotation vs dig can be argued til you're blue in the face, but clearance is clearance.

I ran the 34x9.50-15 TSL's on AR767 15x8rims with 4-1/8 backspacing and they rubbed pretty significantly even after pinchweld and some trimming. DO NOT run them on 8" rims - I suffered tons of rim damage flats with them. I think with stock rims they would have rubbed a lot less.

phildelfino

THis is all very interesting to me cuz I was thinking of getting 33s for my 88 v6 4Runner with no lift. Should I keep my stock rims and go bigger or get other rims and get 4" BS? Anyway, I am confused. I have heard that 33s will fit with no lift but you have to trim a little and or use the BFH, with 1" wheel spacers and a 1" body lift.

Who knows where to get body lifts with an automatic tranny? Can it be done?