86Original

Not in the city. Stock tires (225/75/15) weigh about 30lbs, 33x10.50s weigh about 47lbs each. That's quite a bit of inertia on each wheel to overcome each time you change speeds, let alone start and stop. Overcoming inertia takes power which takes gas.

I don't think you need a diff drop with manual hubs. I think your 22re will act as your fuse, if you put a locker in and use it. Probably getting a set of crawler gears in your T/C will do more for you than a body lift, IMO. You might try lowering your t-bars a bit. I have no problem with camber on my '86 runner with 1.5" BJSpacers. However, if you want to get rid of your IFS truss, I'll take it for $45 . 4Crawler sliderz would be a better choice IMO than the body lift, especially since you don't have rubbing issues.

tc

aw shucks ... LOL

Looks great!

If you're not rubbing now, why do you need a body lift (or any more lift at all for that matter)?

Time for armor! I love my 4crawler sliderz, but there are plenty of options out there.

fthertime666

those look nice, I am currently switching to th 33x10.5 bfgs and will be selling my swampers. They are rubbing like crazy and vibrating badly, stupidGRRRrrr! Putting my old tacoma 6spokes back on too, love those rims

Swansen

well honestly, bigger tires aren't that much of a problem, its wider tires, the wider the tire the more friction there is on the road, granted if you get crazy huge, then thats another story.

pepsibluefloat

looks good man

nmtoy

It's not rubbing now because I have lift shackles, an add a leaf and BJ spacers with the torsions cranked, it rides and flexes like crap.

I don't want more lift, I want to get rid of the BJ spacers and the add a leaf. I will get new OME 1" rear springs first and see how high the rear sits, then deal with the front.

I want to remove the BJ spacers and just do OME torsion bars, after that if I need more clearance I will do the body lift. I need to do all of that before I weld on sliders.

Robb

tc

You have things backwards, there. If you want more flex, you need to keep the BJ spacers and turn down the tbar crank. Going to the OME bars is going to make it worse, as essentially they have a higher spring rate.

nmtoy

I really don't have it backwards, I would love to turn down the T bars but cannot get the camber in spec with them relaxed, I have tried it. My alignment cams are maxed out when the T bars are cranked, when I relax the T bars the cams do not have enough adjustment to get the camber right.

I understand how the suspension works, that is why I want to return the front to stock with turned down stock or OME T bars.

I understand that the OME's with have a little higher spring rate but without the spacers I can relax the T bars and still get the camber correct.


Robb

86Original

This doesn't quite make sense to me. Unless something is bent (including the person doing the alignment ), it doesn't make sense that your adjustment cams are maxed out. Are you sure that your caster is set correctly? Are the BJ spacers just 1.5"?

Turning up or down the T-bars doesn't affect the spring rate.

BTW, I'll still take your IFS truss if you don't want it...

Wait a minute!! Why am I trying to talk you out of changes that would lead you to sell something I want to buy from you???

Tortuginator

Your T4R looks awesome man, those 33 fit well. Though, the american racing (black) rims are kinda overdone, it still looks pretty sick on some rigs. Where'd you get your soft top at? I'm looking to make my own, but I wanna keep my options open.

I just bought a used set 0f 34/10.50/15 TSL swampers (95%tread WOOHOO!), and they look awesome on my 4runner, rub like hell when I turn or hit a bump though... (DUH!) The tires also came with the 15 inch rims, package deal. I havn't had time yet to install the 4 inch lift in my garage yet, I only bought it like 2 days ago. SO, not nearly enough clearance, but it still looks pretty cool! Anyways, here's the pic, enjoy!

EUROJulian

Rate, who cares for rate papi. You are interested in spring force within suspension operational treshold.
By turning tbars you affect force of the spring and ride hight with it. If vehicle sits lower, lower control arms are more extended and he has problem...


33s on 17s

misterzee

I like it! You're very well color-coordinated as well. I wish I had your touch.
Silver and black looks cooler than "white-and-red". You prolly have 4.10 gears, and with 33's I suppose 4.56 would be ideal to get it back to stock ratio. But, if you stay EZ on the gas pedal, you'll B ok.

burtonsoldier

hooray for 1st gens with black rims and mudders, definetley a beautiful thing

nmtoy

It's true that turning up or down the T bars doesn't affect the spring rate, it does affect the amount of preload on the spring though. More preload = less travel and stiffer ride.

At this point I am going to keep the stock T bars and look around for an
alignment shop to get it closer to where it needs to be. I will probably do downey 3" springs in the rear to soften it up.

Thanks for the offer on the truss but I will be keeping it and installing it when I get the rest sorted out and remove the diff drop.

I will post some pics of my cams tomorrow so you can see what I mean. I don't think anything is bent because it has never been wheeled hard (but you never know)

Since it's not a daily driver I will just take my time and get it right.

Robb

nmtoy

Exactly!

4Rocker

Those tires look awesome! Got any more pics of that rear bumper?

86Original

This has been discussed much on YT. Check with a mechanical engineer about the spring rates on torsion bars and what affects them. Have them do the algebra to tell you whether the your assertion is true or not regarding pre-load changing with angle or not. Until then I suggest that you not assert that the pre-load or spring rate are affected by torsion bar position.

The only factor (and a very small one) that will change the pre-load or force on the T-bars when cranking is the component of the gravitational force on the vehicle that is perpendicular to the arm. It is greatest when the upper control arm is exactly perpendicular to the direction of travel / gravitational force vector. At that point the knuckle has the greatest leverage on the torsion bar. The position of the arm at the rear of the t-bar is otherwise irrelevant to the dynamic behavior of the system. It will only affect the static / steady-state position of the upper control arm, i.e. ride height.

The static force of the spring is determined by the spring rate and the mass of the vehicle loading the spring due to gravity. The weight of the vehicle deforms the spring until the distance times spring rate is equal to the weight of the vehicle (i.e. steady state).

T-bars are not like leaves or coils...

Trustyrusty

Nice truck man! made it look better!, I don't really dig the bikini top though..

nmtoy

I am certainly not a mechanical engineer and the bottom line for me is that I want my suspension to work and my truck to go down the road correctly.

What I do know is that I don't like the way it is set up now. I always learn alot from Yotatech and I appreciate that.

At this point the best advice I have gotten is from Phil at TRDparts4u.com (STRAP22) and that is to find a good alignment shop that can align my truck with the torsions uncranked. Any other advice is appreciated!

Thanks guys
Robb

AxleIke

Sort of. You are increasing the preload, but this does not in itself give you a stiffer ride. It simply gives you the lift.

By cranking the torsion bar, you have simply rotated the torsion bar, so that the equilibrium position is farther "down". By this i mean that the upper A-arm will essentially be down farther when the weight of the truck stops flexing the torsion bar. However, if you crank the torsion bar, the truck will still flex the torsion bar the exact same amount. The difference is that you have taken up some of the early flex by cranking the bar, so the truck does not settle as far to the ground.

The geometry of the upper a-arm changes when you crank the torsion bar, and this transfers more of the force of a bump directly to the frame. That is what gives you the "stiffer" ride. Less of the force is being absorbed by the spring.

You get less down travel by cranking the torsion bar, but actually increase Up travel.