trbizwiz

I have a 3.slow too. I am very interested in the dyno specs on it. Some pictures would not hurt my feelings, maybe even some pictures on the dyno. "I trust everyone, just not the devil inside them". If this is real, I am in. It seems plausible, but it also sounds too good to be true.

space-junk

iTrader: (1)

i agree... just post the name of the shop... and if its your shop, dont be afraid to shamelessly plug your own shop name...
also, where is this shop located??? like, what part of Nor Cal???

EDIT: just saw you posted the name... sorry...

Dan.3

1stgen4gunner

dude your not helping anyone, your just trying to sell your merchandise. Ive use a tornado fuel saver, it doesent give me more power, and helps with gas by like half a gallon, a better suggestion would have been K&N cold air intake. Wow I should be a salesman.

Alex 400

another thing, where are the pictures of this revolutionary product? I like to see what kind of deal we are looking at.

I made a cold air kit for my friends crown vic, cost about 60 bucks,(edit) [It feels like we] picked up about 20 horsepower, of course this is on a 260 horsepower stock car, but still. I would like to see this one for ideas.

Alex 400

I could see a tornado maybe working on a like a holley 4 barrel or similar where the air and fuel goes basically straight to the runners and to the valves. But on our engines, the air goes straight to the back hits the back side of the plenum and then goes down to a lower manifold where it goes into the runners to the valves. Something all the way by the MAF sensor isn't going to a whole lot later.

mlrtime99

He said KNN.... say it fast and it's like K & N... sorta like eminem?

slisdexia

mmm M&Ms... so are you saying that a tornado might work on carbed engines? In that case I'll go get a coffee can and make one.

Alex 400

well i mean, with a carb motor, the tornado, or the piece of metal that makes air go in all swirly like, is right on top of the throats of the carb as well as the runners in the intake manifold. In this case, it would actually do what it is supposed to do, mix the air and fuel more completely and thus making a cleaner, more complete burn. When the tornado is put at the end of the intake tube all the way by the airbox, (especially with the silencer bs on the 3.0 and most newer fuel injected cars) the vortex of swirly air that is supposed to mix the fuel into cannot possibly make it all the way from the air filter, through the silencer, up the intake tube, passed the throttle plate, down the upper plenum runners and then down the lower intake tubes where the air finally mixes with the fuel. phfew.

That is why i think it could work on a carbbed rig and not so much on a efi rig.

J_Dawg72

J&J Custom Performace is located in a small town called Grass Valley, or Valley of the Grass. I am not plugging my company. I am simply trying to assist other people with the same sluggish 3.0L that I got stuck with. Like I said I will put the DYNO info on this page thursday or friday. As for 20 hp where is the dyno info?????? When did a Crown Vic with heater ducting make it on a yota forum. I used the KNN kit i thought it did not stack up to the one I purchased and installed. And who said TORANDO those are a way different design to what came in the adapter plate the kit came with that I purchased.

J_Dawg72

Yeah you are right about the Air going in the upper intake and all. Think of it this way. When aie twists through a pipe it can take in a hinger cfm. simply a higher valocity of air going though youre mas aif flow the cumputer tells the injectors to back off a little. As long as you can keep youre foot out of the gas.

jason191918

without a baseline run it would be useless

Alex 400

sorry. The reason i put that up was because that was a cold air kit that i had made. I asked for dyno info and yet i can't produce any. the seat in the pants and feel and 0-60 times is what we have to go by. we didn't have the money for dyno runs. (i am laughing at this point) don't diss my adjustable exhaust duct! hahahaha it worked! we used a pencil thermometer and the intake temp with out the ducting was around 130 degrees and with the ducting it brought it down to about 75 degrees. The reason i put that up is because it cost about 60 bucks to make. that's all.

The torando. o.k. That is what it sounded like to me. does it do the same thing? I haven't seen a picture of your adapter plate so all i can try and imagine what it might look like. sorry.

Alex 400

yup, x2

J_Dawg72

After my dyno run I will have all the pics and pics of the truck at the dyno for you to see so you all dont think I am lying

J_Dawg72

I am running a baseline run and with the performace parts so I will have three 1 with stock one with the adapter plate and one with Both on it.

RaginYota

Ok, I know that happens, but the cost of the engine say $2200 for the engine with all the required parts, do my own wiring, and fab my own exhaust, that leaves about $700 for misc stuff that I might need or break..lol... It won't be anywhere close to $5K. I am sure if you got everything you needed from ORS it could reach $5K easily. Once I start it I will be sure to post it up. But that won't be for about 2-3 more months.

True... very true..

Alex 400

Yeah that is true. Yeah, if get to the point of doing the 3.4 swap i would try and get a entire donor truck so that I could just pull wiring harness off of the donor truck.

Yeah, I can't wait to see it happen.

trbizwiz

Side tracking a little bit, but... i love my 92 p/u as much as anybody, I even considered the 3.4 swap. But after looking on craigs list, you can buy 4 runners with the 3.4 in them for $5K to $7K, and you dont have to do the swap at all. I would much rather install lifts and gears and stuff than an engine swap. I even saw a TRD 4runner the other day with the TRD super charger for $6k ( I almost cried wish I had seen that before I bought my truck). SO that pretty much rules me out for 3.4 swaps JMOP. It's your money spend it how you like.

back on topic, very interested in the dynos. Very skeptical too.

904_runner

i feel the majority of the people that do the 3.4 swap aren't really concerned about the price. its about keeping their older Toyota and swapping in another more powerful Toyota motor. You could probably sell your Toyota and buy a newer truck with the 3.4 already for around the same if not cheaper than doing the swap.

I personally love my 2nd gen 4runner and want to keep it as long as possible, therefore i plan on doing the 3.4 swap. I mean why wouldn't you? Still have a Toyota engine, with more power/efficiency and the coolness factor of swapping in a 3.4!

For me, i learn best doing hands on work, therefore with the 3.4 swap, it gives you a good chance to learn about the motor going in rather than buying one and not having to work on it.

MY $0.02