3.0 vs 3.4 toyota engine
#21
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I drove my buddies 92 pickup with a newly swapped 3.4. Very nice! I'm saving my $$$$ to swap a 3.4 in my 84 4Runner. It will probably get SC'd at some point in time also
#22
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Then you haven't driven it in the mountains with a load of gear. Huge difference. The 3.0, in 3rd, will barely maintain 45 mph in the Rockies, whereas my 3.4 will stay at 55-60 in 5th. And get better mileage, to boot. I get approximately 10% better economy with my 3.4.
#23
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you could spend a few grand fixing a 3.0 (which is a good engine) and get close to the max power youll get out of it. which i think is about what a 3.4 puts out stock...
or you can spend the same amount on goin with a 3.4 and have a better base engine. one which down the road, youll be able to add performance parts, for better gains.
As for smog..we in Cali not only get a sniffer, visual test, timing check, fuel cap test, but we also get to ride a dyno! As for the different engine, all youll have to do is go to a referee before the smog.
or you can spend the same amount on goin with a 3.4 and have a better base engine. one which down the road, youll be able to add performance parts, for better gains.
As for smog..we in Cali not only get a sniffer, visual test, timing check, fuel cap test, but we also get to ride a dyno! As for the different engine, all youll have to do is go to a referee before the smog.
on the upside, if the ref passes you (which is pretty easy if you pass the tailpipe and dyno tests), your engine becomes part of the chassis (you get a modified exemption) so the next smog test is just like anyone else's.
#24
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da... id say swap it out, and get it reffed... no point in maybe wasting money on a smog test if your only gonna fail...
also, if you do the 3.4 swap, then make sure that the motor is newer than the chasis... (note, im lazy and didnt bother to check what year the 5vze started production. )
also, if you do the 3.4 swap, then make sure that the motor is newer than the chasis... (note, im lazy and didnt bother to check what year the 5vze started production. )
#25
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Swappage
My recalled h/g in my '92 3.0 p/u is just now showing me how unhappy it is. I've been all over this awsome site. And it seems as tho a swap to a3.4 is a bit easier to do than tearing into replace the h/g in my 3.0. True? False?
I can weld, bend, fab stuff it's just that I have never dug into an engine before, ever. I am confident in my skills, it's my knowledge that is lacking.
I already have my 22r powered trail rig and this '92 is on it's way to being my pre-runner. So I'll need more power anyway.
As for cost, I am well aware of the difference $200 or $2000. But is this swap a job that a noob could do?
I can weld, bend, fab stuff it's just that I have never dug into an engine before, ever. I am confident in my skills, it's my knowledge that is lacking.
I already have my 22r powered trail rig and this '92 is on it's way to being my pre-runner. So I'll need more power anyway.
As for cost, I am well aware of the difference $200 or $2000. But is this swap a job that a noob could do?
#26
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Yes. The most experience I had prior to my swap was pulling a head and doing a timing chain on a 2.2 liter Sunfire engine. When I did mine, I learned a ton about the truck. And it didn't take much fab work.
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old87yota (08-17-2019)
#29
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RobD-- So you did the swap? Was it worth the money? Does the engine mount straight up to the manual tranny? How much new wiring is there to do? And where did you find a good engine? Thanks Alot for any helpfull hints.
#30
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They (the 3.0) are barely okay with a 5 speed. I can't imagine them with an auto going through the Roger's Pass in BC.
Anyhow, Aubs, yes I did most of the work by myself. The exhaust I had fabbed by a shop, but I didn't own a welder at the time. The transmission bolts right up, using the 3.4 flywheel, pilot bearing and clutch and the 3.0 throwout bearing. Don't worry if you don't know what any of this is. Pull an engine off from a tranny and you'll soon learn!
Wiring was my biggest fear, but once you know the goal, it's about 30 wires in all. There are two plugs under the right side kick panel by the passenger footwell. The wires on those have to be matched with the wires on the 3.4 (voltmeter, temperature, things like that) and spliced together.
I got the engine out of a yard in Westbank, British Columbia. I paid $2000 for the complete engine, including all accessories and computer, plus another $1500 for the exhaust and the little bits and pieces for the swap, including a few tools I didn't have (like stud extractors and a Heli Coil kit for those annoying stripped bolts). I got $300 from selling the old engine, but probably could have gotten more if I held out. I just wanted it out of my brother's carport.
Is it worth it? Honestly, you could probably sell your second gen and buy a third gen with a 3.4 in it already for less. That said, I really love my 2nd gen, bought it as a project to learn on, and for that, it has been invaluable. I know more about my truck than I ever thought possible. I have no problems tackling most problems now. It's a blast to drive and I have the pride of saying I did the swap myself.
To me, that's priceless.
You'll have to ask yourself what it's worth to you.
Anyhow, Aubs, yes I did most of the work by myself. The exhaust I had fabbed by a shop, but I didn't own a welder at the time. The transmission bolts right up, using the 3.4 flywheel, pilot bearing and clutch and the 3.0 throwout bearing. Don't worry if you don't know what any of this is. Pull an engine off from a tranny and you'll soon learn!
Wiring was my biggest fear, but once you know the goal, it's about 30 wires in all. There are two plugs under the right side kick panel by the passenger footwell. The wires on those have to be matched with the wires on the 3.4 (voltmeter, temperature, things like that) and spliced together.
I got the engine out of a yard in Westbank, British Columbia. I paid $2000 for the complete engine, including all accessories and computer, plus another $1500 for the exhaust and the little bits and pieces for the swap, including a few tools I didn't have (like stud extractors and a Heli Coil kit for those annoying stripped bolts). I got $300 from selling the old engine, but probably could have gotten more if I held out. I just wanted it out of my brother's carport.
Is it worth it? Honestly, you could probably sell your second gen and buy a third gen with a 3.4 in it already for less. That said, I really love my 2nd gen, bought it as a project to learn on, and for that, it has been invaluable. I know more about my truck than I ever thought possible. I have no problems tackling most problems now. It's a blast to drive and I have the pride of saying I did the swap myself.
To me, that's priceless.
You'll have to ask yourself what it's worth to you.
Last edited by RobD; 09-14-2008 at 06:07 PM.
#31
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They (the 3.0) are barely okay with a 5 speed. I can't imagine them with an auto going through the Roger's Pass in BC.
Anyhow, Aubs, yes I did most of the work by myself. The exhaust I had fabbed by a shop, but I didn't own a welder at the time. The transmission bolts right up, using the 3.4 flywheel, pilot bearing and clutch and the 3.0 throwout bearing. Don't worry if you don't know what any of this is. Pull an engine off from a tranny and you'll soon learn!
Wiring was my biggest fear, but once you know the goal, it's about 30 wires in all. There are two plugs under the right side kick panel by the passenger footwell. The wires on those have to be matched with the wires on the 3.4 (voltmeter, temperature, things like that) and spliced together.
I got the engine out of a yard in Westbank, British Columbia. I paid $2000 for the complete engine, including all accessories and computer, plus another $1500 for the exhaust and the little bits and pieces for the swap, including a few tools I didn't have (like stud extractors and a Heli Coil kit for those annoying stripped bolts). I got $300 from selling the old engine, but probably could have gotten more if I held out. I just wanted it out of my brother's carport.
Is it worth it? Honestly, you could probably sell your second gen and buy a third gen with a 3.4 in it already for less. That said, I really love my 2nd gen, bought it as a project to learn on, and for that, it has been invaluable. I know more about my truck than I ever thought possible. I have no problems tackling most problems now. It's a blast to drive and I have the pride of saying I did the swap myself.
To me, that's priceless.
You'll have to ask yourself what it's worth to you.
Anyhow, Aubs, yes I did most of the work by myself. The exhaust I had fabbed by a shop, but I didn't own a welder at the time. The transmission bolts right up, using the 3.4 flywheel, pilot bearing and clutch and the 3.0 throwout bearing. Don't worry if you don't know what any of this is. Pull an engine off from a tranny and you'll soon learn!
Wiring was my biggest fear, but once you know the goal, it's about 30 wires in all. There are two plugs under the right side kick panel by the passenger footwell. The wires on those have to be matched with the wires on the 3.4 (voltmeter, temperature, things like that) and spliced together.
I got the engine out of a yard in Westbank, British Columbia. I paid $2000 for the complete engine, including all accessories and computer, plus another $1500 for the exhaust and the little bits and pieces for the swap, including a few tools I didn't have (like stud extractors and a Heli Coil kit for those annoying stripped bolts). I got $300 from selling the old engine, but probably could have gotten more if I held out. I just wanted it out of my brother's carport.
Is it worth it? Honestly, you could probably sell your second gen and buy a third gen with a 3.4 in it already for less. That said, I really love my 2nd gen, bought it as a project to learn on, and for that, it has been invaluable. I know more about my truck than I ever thought possible. I have no problems tackling most problems now. It's a blast to drive and I have the pride of saying I did the swap myself.
To me, that's priceless.
You'll have to ask yourself what it's worth to you.
#33
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Well you've givin me the confidence to do some sort of engine swap. The wiring was my worry as well. But soldering a few wires together seems within my reach.
I can't sell the body style of my '92. I like so much better than the Tacoma. I just want the guts. Plus Ive to many good memories with the old beast.
I think give my '68 vw bus a proper tune up so then I ll have my back up vehicle...just in case, ha!
I can't sell the body style of my '92. I like so much better than the Tacoma. I just want the guts. Plus Ive to many good memories with the old beast.
I think give my '68 vw bus a proper tune up so then I ll have my back up vehicle...just in case, ha!
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#35
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They're in Lumby and Westbank, BC. Ask for Phil. Tell him what you want to do and mention me. Hopefully, that will help.
#36
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I think the 3.0 is a great motor, as long as you don't need a hot rod with the ability to add a super charger.
replace the HG's, do a few cheap mods to improve intake air volume, and eliminate the stock cross over pipe on the #6 cylinder. You do that, and for less than 1000 bucks (including a complete rebuild, timing belt, valves, the whole shibang), you have a brand new motor that is just as reliable as the 5VZ. It would be pushing at least in the 170 HP range, be getting 20 or so MPG, and most importantly, would be just as reliable as the 5VZ, for about a third of the price.
replace the HG's, do a few cheap mods to improve intake air volume, and eliminate the stock cross over pipe on the #6 cylinder. You do that, and for less than 1000 bucks (including a complete rebuild, timing belt, valves, the whole shibang), you have a brand new motor that is just as reliable as the 5VZ. It would be pushing at least in the 170 HP range, be getting 20 or so MPG, and most importantly, would be just as reliable as the 5VZ, for about a third of the price.
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old87yota (08-17-2019)
#37
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Uh, no. The 3.0 will not ever put out the same kind of power as the 3.4, nor will it last as long. It was a design that had flaws, including the headgasket and the burnt valves on cylinder 6. You won't get 170 hp out of it, not at the crank, without pouring more money into it than what it's worth. I've had the 3.0, I have a 3.4. If I were to buy another 3.0 equipped 4Runner or pickup, I would only do it to pull it out and do another swap. You will never be able to sell me on that lump of cast iron.
#38
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I think the 3.0 is a great motor, as long as you don't need a hot rod with the ability to add a super charger.
replace the HG's, do a few cheap mods to improve intake air volume, and eliminate the stock cross over pipe on the #6 cylinder. You do that, and for less than 1000 bucks (including a complete rebuild, timing belt, valves, the whole shibang), you have a brand new motor that is just as reliable as the 5VZ. It would be pushing at least in the 170 HP range, be getting 20 or so MPG, and most importantly, would be just as reliable as the 5VZ, for about a third of the price.
replace the HG's, do a few cheap mods to improve intake air volume, and eliminate the stock cross over pipe on the #6 cylinder. You do that, and for less than 1000 bucks (including a complete rebuild, timing belt, valves, the whole shibang), you have a brand new motor that is just as reliable as the 5VZ. It would be pushing at least in the 170 HP range, be getting 20 or so MPG, and most importantly, would be just as reliable as the 5VZ, for about a third of the price.
wow!!! talk about talking out ones bunghole
too funny
Last edited by Dan.3; 09-16-2008 at 09:19 PM.
#39
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