bruzer

Flowmaster, no cat-converter, choped the exhaust pipe off right at the rear axle. Truck run's good. Used to be able to do 100+ comfortably on the freeway, then I regeared to 4.88's and I am still running 31" tire's. Now I top out around 85 to 90, but the get up and go is great. My 0-60 went from 5 minutes to about 2. J/K But it does have alot more get up and go.

all_terrain17

What's your reasoning behind this? Thought OEM was the best you could do and K&N was on the opposite end of the spectrum

95RunnerSR5

dont beat that horse in this thread, search for all that info...anyways i did the irs mod, manual hubs, and got a little seat of the pants difference

Daemon

Looks like my experience pretty much mirrors most other folks here.
K&N - no difference in power
ISR mod - slightly louder but no difference in power
Magnaflow performance 2.25" cat-back exhaust - nice sound, but no difference in power
Mid-grade fuel.. slight increase in power

Need to do plugs and wires, and maybe advance the timing a little
to take better advantage of mid-grade or premium fuel.

If I lived near sea level I *might* be content with the 3.slow, but
up here starting a mile above sea level it's just dreadful. Most
trips in the truck start with me heading straight up I-70 or Highway 285
into the mountains and when your'e stuck in 2nd gear (automatic)
spinning at 5100 rpms at just barely 55mph indicated for 10 minutes
at a time, it just wears me out. Even when I get it up to 3rd,
one person cuts me off, and I'm done.. Even out on the "flat"
interstate I'll be cruising in overdrive at 70, and then suddenly it
downshifts and struggles to maintain speed, because I've come
upon a *slight* uphill grade I didn't even realize was there. For the most
part this truck only has two modes.. Full throttle, and braking.

And of course since I've usually got it running at full throttle and
high revs just to try to keep up with traffic, I've never seen better
than 14mpg, and usually it's a lot worse.

I'd have gone with a '96 runner to get the 3.4L but it didn't make sense to
me to spend the extra $5000 it'd cost me over my '92 given how few
miles I drive the truck every year. Offroad, the '92 does everything I
need it to do, just wish there wasn't so much uphill pavement
between where I live and where I'm going offroad.

ian

Steveh29

I'm going to have to second the motion on the Centerforce heavier flywheel. It made a huge difference not only in crawling but on the highway. I found I had to accelerate less to make it over overpasses and didn't need to downshift as often on a grade.

I've heard this isn't a good mod for the 4 cylinder engines. I'd like to hear from somebody that used the heavier flywheel in a 4 banger.

Steve

TNRabbit

No, but I believe I'm experiencing a bit of pre-ignition due to carbon build-up in the cylinder heads/pistons. That's the only thing I can think of that would require 93 octane fuel. It runs great on it and gets terrific mileage. Plus, I have TONS of power now.

Guardian_Saint

Well, I did a custom intake using spectra stuff, using the spectra air filter, bassically same as K&N air filter. For the power, not much gain, well can't really tell but it does make the engine idle smoother than the stock intake, and slightly increase the gas mileage. Anyways I am putting back the stock air filter cause it suck too much of the hot air and can cause loss of performance, but I'll kept the intake tube in, it slightly increase the power using the stock air filter than the spectra air filter.

The other thing I upgraded are bigger wire, I upgraded the negative wire from the battery to a 4 guage and upgrade the wire to the engine to a 2 guage wire and it definately give a much performance to it, really a recommend upgrade job. Haven't have the chance to get the one to the alternator cause I don't know if it can connect striaght to the battery instead to the ALT fuse.

This is another good upgrade, I upgrade the ignition coil to a 45,000 volt coil from NOLOGY and in the very first time I driven this truck using this 45k coil I can cruise upto the 80 MPH mark on an auto. using octane 91 and stock spark plugs (ngk), this upgrade involve in splicing wire and this is a moderate job cause you may get a few electric shock if not covering the coil with some rubber material, but for those who know than its an easy task.

These are all the upgrade I done so far, but all that I done have really help this truck beat it.

*** I assume no responsibility or damage or injuries which may result from the use or installation of the advise listed above ***

tc

More of your problem is the auto tranny and the supertall overdrive. All that being said, I want a turbo BAD - if my truck performed in CO like it did in OH, I would be SUPER happy.

Tigerstripe40

Well, I just turned 500 miles over on my 91 4Runner after rebuilding the motor.

When I built the motor, I ported and polished the heads (myself). I also had oversized valves put in, decked the head, decked the block, and put in forged internals.

The truck still seems like it has no balls until about 3500 rpms, then it wakes up, and then it moves pretty well.

I have the stock exhaust sytem.
I want to put in the NWOR headers, but I talked to Jim, the owner of NWOR, last week and he's telling me that they aren't going to have any more 3.0 V6 headers any time soon due to the cost of the header flanges.

So, I am looking at other options.

Currently, I am thinking about getting the ceramic coated downey headers. Putting some heat insulated dynamat on the firewall and under the carpet. Also, I was planning on putting some header wrap onto the headers to keep the head in the header, rather than in the engine bay.

Anyhow, I am currently working on the ISR mod.

Skeeve

As there was no noticeable increase in power, and the K&N flat out cannot trap particulates as well as, let alone better than the OEM paper filters, I would think that it would be a big ?

Yeah, they're reuseable, but for $50 I can buy at least 5 Purolator af's at Pep Boys on special, and they're a lot quicker & less messy to swap out (plus you can bang'em on the bumper to knock off the bigger gunk when done kicking up dust for the day & ready to head home on the freeway... )

K&N has a good spiel, but they're nowhere near as effective as UNIs, and neither of those are as good for your engine as a paper (well, felt when you really look at'em) element. When willing to sacrifice longevity for outright performance, (ie: racing where motors are torn down at least once a season anyway) then they have a place. Otherwise, save your ducats & use the OEM paper!

taikowaza

FIPK- nothing really.
Thorley Ceramic Headers- no problems at all and more power. Very thick flanges. Bought with the Jardine exhaust which I like very much.
swapped out the 14" jardine racing muffler for a magnaflow 24/30" muffler and free-flow cat which has the low tone and improved power.

put on the jacobs ignition and ISR mod at the same time. the combo was surprising, with more torque and a much smoother idle.

problem with the jacobs was that I did not realize that I needed the secondary trigger...had to buy it seperately. If you do Jacobs for the 3.0 you need:

Pro-Street Brain
Ultra-Coil
**Secondary Trigger**
I also put on Jacobs cap and Rotor and wires. I like the effect. Now I just hope it lasts the life of the engine.

I hear that a regear is an excellent mod for power. I am running 4.56 and will switch to 4.88.

I like working on the 3.0, a very fun engine and it grows on you. I am pleased with the performance gains I have seen, in fact it is fast now especially when moving on the freeway over 3000 rpm. It is slow in lower gears which is where the regear will come in.

shoes138

hey man where would i get the jacob ignition stuff? yea i dont wanna get rid of this motor the 3vz has treat me well n i think that i should do that same to her n i love the torque i get on my yota peecup. Also i have a 1 ton axel with an automatic tranny does any one no what gear i have?

suprathepeg

Fleebay, or go to their site.

91ToyTrck

I'm glad to see that someone enjoys their engine.

I'm working on converting to an Electric Fan to reduce the drag and noise from the engine. Should be a good gain. I'm also looking around for some 4.56 gears ( F&R ) and an Electronic Locker ( rear )

shoes138

i think the 94 4 runners had the electric locker cuz that what im gettin but there pretty damn expensive thou!

91ToyTrck

I have been looking at some factory toyota parts because I have some friends that work at a couple different toyota dealerships. You can't beat just unbolting and bolting up a 3rd member, run some wirings, and have some fun.

shoes138

yea it shoudl be fun! but i heard it would kill you bottom end thou!

Bumpin' Yota

how would a locker kill bottom end? :confizzled:

jht3

bottom end of what is my question. bottom end of the motor? bottom end of the torque curve?

shoes: you need to do some more homework. 94 4runners did not have a locker option. nor will a locker "kill bottom end".

shoes138

dood i just went to the junkyard n the guy told me n showed me the 3rd member! maybe the dood was wrong! i dunno i just took it from him n also he was that will most likly kill ur torque but will give lots more power on the higher rpms! sry for not explainin more clearly and also i was talkin about the locker kill ur bottom end, i was talk about the regearing will kill it!