3.0 Fuel Rail Issue
#1
3.0 Fuel Rail Issue
What's up everyone, so a few weeks ago I was trying to find out the source of a pretty bad misfire. Found out it was a dead injector on cylinder 2! So I went and ordered a replacement for it and recently spent the past evening putting it in.
Got it all good to go, turned it over and the banjo bolts just started spraying fuel everywhere! I quickly turned it off and now I'm letting it air out. Both have a washer on it, am I missing one? If so, where can I get one?
Thanks guys!
Got it all good to go, turned it over and the banjo bolts just started spraying fuel everywhere! I quickly turned it off and now I'm letting it air out. Both have a washer on it, am I missing one? If so, where can I get one?
Thanks guys!
#2
are the sealing rings new? they should be replaced each time, and i use engine oil on them. toyota should have them, or you can probably match them up at a parts store, usually coated aluminum, or copper ones for brake lines might work.
#3
I don't know the 3.0, but on banjo bolts on the 22re you use two new ones on each side. They are called Crush Washers and is what they do to help seal the fittings. Not much at the dealer last time I checked are copper or copper looking. Like you just experienced, anytime you work on the fuel system, first thing to check for when starting it up is to make sure it is sealed up good. A pin hole in the connection will spray fuel everywhere.
#4
Banjo bolts always have a pair of crush washers around them. The washers can never be reused (they "work harden" when crushed). The only place I've ever found them (and I've looked!) is the dealer. (They have to fit both on the inside and outside diameter). But they are cheaper than dirt (around a buck each).
Next time, remember that you can run the fuel pump without starting your truck by jumpering FP to B+ in the diagnostic connector. Saves a lot of running around.
Next time, remember that you can run the fuel pump without starting your truck by jumpering FP to B+ in the diagnostic connector. Saves a lot of running around.
#5
Thanks for all the help guys. Every dealer I spoke to had a 1 to 3 day waiting period and wanted like $2.50 a pop. I said screw it, went down to my local Autozone and they hooked me up with a copper washer set from a brake line kit. $2.50 and I am back in action.
Now I just gotta fix the chugging problem...
Thanks again for the help guys!
Now I just gotta fix the chugging problem...
Thanks again for the help guys!
#6
are the sealing rings new? they should be replaced each time, and i use engine oil on them. toyota should have them, or you can probably match them up at a parts store, usually coated aluminum, or copper ones for brake lines might work.
Banjo bolts always have a pair of crush washers around them. The washers can never be reused (they "work harden" when crushed). The only place I've ever found them (and I've looked!) is the dealer. (They have to fit both on the inside and outside diameter). But they are cheaper than dirt (around a buck each).
Next time, remember that you can run the fuel pump without starting your truck by jumpering FP to B+ in the diagnostic connector. Saves a lot of running around.
#7
you can put old dry-scored crank/ rod bearings in a new motor, trim a wiper blade, file a distributor cap and rotor, wash a used condom, turn your boxers inside-out.... but why? it's likely not going to be the best route, but could work fine......
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#8
Also found out that I am missing a rubber washer between the bolt that connects the fuel rail to the intake manifold. Had to make one using mini washer's and some luck. Now it's seated properly, thankfully.
Gotta love Toyota ingenuity.
#9
You shouldn't re-use the rubber washer in a garden hose, but no one cares. Why should they? Gasoline is different.
#10
actually, the bajo seal washer is a mainstay nowadays, you find them all over on both brakes and high pressure fuel systems.... but you take the same approach as a head gasket. they form to the surface under pressure once.
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