wsntme

When my brother gets home tonight I think I'll verify whether or not it's a fuel issue by having him crank it as I spray some starter fluid straight in the throttle body. I figure that if I try that, and I get some fire, then it's a fuel issue after all..... any advise against this plan?

iamsuperbleeder

be careful when you're spraying the starter fluid in

you said it was backfiring; you don't want it to backfire up through the intake on you while you're spraying the fluid in

but that would be a good way to test and see if it's getting fuel


you sure you double checked all those fuses in that box under the hood? I'm still wondering about that 15 amp EFI fuse...

wsntme

haha yeah, I quadruple checked that EFI fuse!!! Don't worry, I'll wear my PPE while spraying the starter fluid .

wsntme

I'm pretty sure this is not the cause of my problem but how bad is the condition of this injector (video, yeah I like video!)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9az0h7FcSYo

iamsuperbleeder

That's fine for them to spin like that; perfectly normal. They're just held in place, sandwiched in between the intake manifold and the fuel rail with some o-rings at the top and bottom; they can spin around a little in between those o-rings.

The insulation missing I wouldn't be all too concerned about, as long as the wires still look good leading to the plugs.

That one thing you were pointing at, the little disc-like thing that's mounted to the fuel rail and has a fuel line and a vacuum line attached, is the fuel pressure regulator.



I'm still leaning towards the injectors not firing, for whatever reason that might be...

Guardian_Saint

Have you check compresson yet? It can tell you that your timing belt have jump or not... Also try stripping off the clear rtv from the afm to see any burnt solder. But look like your timing belt have jump as you had mention it backfire... Either than that hope your cyclinder head is ok...

Just watch your second video. The injector spin but not that easily though. That is the FPR and when you pull out the top hose what do you see from it? Maybe need a big tuneup and fix them wire up before it get a snap...

wsntme

Hey all, I've not had much time this week to do much with the truck. I've not yet check compression or timing, still hoping to stumble across a bad wire or something easy.

Anyway, I removed the top hose from the FPR which I assume is a vacuum line, and there was fuel in it. Could a faulty FPR be the problem? I would think it would still run, just not so great but perhaps I am wrong?

Kiroshu

That injector spinning is normal. They just pop in there with an o-ring and spin on most any car. Those exposed wires are not the problem but need to be repaired and covered.

The "device" you pointed to upon the fuel injector video thats above the injector is the Fuel pressure regulator. Sure its gas leaking around that area and not coolant from the throttle body coolant hose? Leaking gas is never good to have as it can cause fires as well as a fuel pressure drop.

You need to just shoot a hit of carb cleaner into the intake and see if it will run and continue running upon more carb cleaner injection. If so more that likley its the fuel pump or an injector signal issue. Not having any other codes than tps its prob the fuel pump.

Cranking time and speed seems normal and ok.

Timing belt more than likely not the culprit.

The videos sound is kinda odd on my computer though it could have "jumped" time.

Removal of timing cover and inspection may be in order.

There should not be fuel coming out of the the vac port in the FPR. That indicates the diphram in the fuel pressure regulator has more than likely a small pin hole or two in it. Needs to be replaced. Usually on toyotas and older vehciles it will still run with the FPR unplugged. But if theres enough fuel leaking past it that "manifold vacuum" is pulling unmetered fuel it will cause some of these symptoms your having. Its accutally prob flooding a lil as well.

Try starting the truck with the fuel pressure reg unplugged now that its not pulling in the extra fuel. You may have to give it a few throttle "pats" and a few Cranking times to get it to run as it may be flooded.

wsntme

I don't think it's the pump because fuel gets to the rail (at least the one under the intake plenum). I know because it'll come out the cold start injector hose if disconnected.

What about the FPR, pretty sure it's faulty, could this cause the type of failure I've experienced? I plan to do the carb cleaner test either tonight or sunday, hard to say but it has to happen eventually, no wheels is no bueno!

edit; you responded again faster than I! I'll try disconnecting it and giving it a few cranks, may need to wait 'til there is a vehicle here to jump off though as the battery has gotten low with repeated attemps to start

wsntme

I doubt this is related, hence my neglect to mention, but the only thing i did out of the norm prior to this failure was pressure test the cooling system the night before....

I was trying to exaggerate my leak in order to get a better idea of where exactly is was coming from. I put about 30psi into the system....

Another thing; I have had problems with starting before, twice. Both times I was camping and around 7500 ft elevation (phx is about 1100). I had to crank, and crank, and crank. Give up. crank, crank, oh fire. choking, stumbling.....idle for a while then it was fine. I attributed to the higher alt but i would think EFI could adjust for this....

Well, just adding a bit more back info incase it may help with diagnosis.

-Kevin

1990yota-pickup

take a paint marker and mark a line across your distributor cap.. and then you need to un screw the bolts.. pull the cap back and see if your rotor button is spinning around in circle.. If it does not spin its probelly your timing belt has snapped..

you can by a spark test for a fe bucks at a parts store but its just a waste of money..

take a extra spark plu you just lying around put it in on plug wires.. and crank the engine and ground the spark plug to the engine block ensuring you have a good ground.. it you bit a bite that feels like a stun gun that would mean your coil is doing its job...

wsntme

Done this already, I'm sure the Tbelt is intact and I am getting spark. Thank you for your input.

Guardian_Saint

Well then. There should be no fuel coming out of the top hose. You should get it replace. Junk yard sale them very cheap. Test it with a junk yard FPR and see what happen after that and see if it work...

ashtsi

i'm having almost the exact same problem. Except mine will fire once in a blue moon. I replaced my ecu thinking that was the problem because my thought was that it's not getting an injector pulse. The book also says it could be the mas airflow sensor. I'm still stuck though.

If you figure something out shoot me a PM.

heres a like to my thread.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-start-217569/

1990yota-pickup

did u ever, bother pulling your fuel filter and blowing some air through it .. with compressed air from a blow gun .. or just changin it out for good measure...

wsntme

I was thinking this is a good idea, yet I have not. Was figuring I would try replacing the fuel filter if I have any glimmer of hope after trying the carb cleaner in the throttle body.

It's so dang hot out that I don't even want to mess with it @ the moment. Earliest I'll be messing with it is late the eve, but I like to enjoy my weekends so I actually probably won't do anything until Sunday.

wsntme

Well I will be sure to let you know if/when I find out what is wrong with my beast! Perhaps you'll do the same if you beat me?

-Kevin

1990yota-pickup

if its do dam hot, sleep all day.. and do midnight maintenance..

turn up your radio, piss off the neighbors pull out the adult bevrages... and have few buddies over to help out..

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

your fuel pump will prime when you turn the key so you'll get some pressure at the fuel lines. But IF your afm doesn't read that air is moving in the intake it won't send a signal to the cor that sends power to the fuel pump. Just because you get a little pressure at the fuel rail, Does not mean fuel pump is working like it should.

1990yota-pickup

if i were you i would look up the mfr required fuel pressure.. and then i would go to harbor freight and get a fuel pressure test kit..