mikeztoyz

Hi I have a 94 2wheel drive Toyota and a 1983 toyota 4x4 and i want to put the 1994 cab on to the 1983 4x4 frame but i havent made the measurements yet but I was wondering if anyone has done it before let me know

WORMS

I have A dead 3.0 in the garage....apparentaley the previous owner didnt like to put oil in it!! I drove it like a mad man for a year, took it apart the other day due to a bad knocking and found two 0.05 over pistons and four 0.20 over but hey never blew a H-G

dkyleb

Wow, this thread seemed to pop up at the best/worse time.

(1992 4x4 pickup, 3.0 5spd, HG serviced by Toyota in 2006)

Did a coolant flush the other day after discovering the previous owned had been using green anti-freeze. The green had only been run through it for less than 500 miles, no big deal. Flushed it all out, etc etc. Service manuals says it should hold 10.0L of fluid. I only managed to get ~8.0L including the overflow. Weird, huh?

About a week before the coolant flush, I noticed a 'dead spot' in my revs between 1000rpm and 1500rpm. Not noticeable at WOT, but in daily driving, it's noticeable. Now, a couple days after coolant flush, it seems to be getting worse...

Went to go try to put the rest of the coolant in today after it sat overnight, after I took the cap off, noticed tiny bubbles and it immediately began to overflow.

WTF is going on?

uncrfe

What cap did you take off (and subsequently bubbled / overflowed)?

tardman91

Is the green anti-freeze really that bad for the engine? Mine's got green in it. Is it really something that I should switch out? I've got a few other mechanical things on the agenda before I do that.

jlshaff9

I second what Scuba said earlier. Consider that 80% of the traffic on this site is based on troubleshooting. Its not a powerful engine, its a Yota. I'm happy with my '89 at 214K; don't give up on it. I had the same concerns as you when I found this site. I decided when it finally craps out, I'm gonna do a 4.3 swap, but the time is yet to come. Best of luck

mikeztoyz

so sorry for you. my 1988 4runner did that to me you have a blown head the exhaust gases are pushing the fluid threw the water jackets because your head is blown. I put a lot in to my 88 and i am heartbroken that the heads were blown, but im goin to fix them p.s ill use new head bolts i got that tip off this site THANKS!

mikeztoyz

NO ITS NOT BAD. I use it on my 88 and any others never had a problem.

dkyleb

The radiator cap.


It don't think that it's an instant diagnosis.

Considering I just did a coolant change there is bound to be air in the system somewhere. I'm going to check for bubbles again tomorrow, and if they're present I'll be buying an exhaust fume test kit to see if it's exhaust fumes in my rad fluid. The reason I am doubting that it is anything is because the green fluid that was in there before was perrfeecctly clean, not a trace of anything.

uncrfe

Ok. So it sat overnight, and in the morning (or whatever), without starting it, you took off the rad cap and it immediately bubbled and came out.

I was going to guess that you took the rad cap off when it was warm and the coolant boiled upon losing pressure. If it's doing that cold though, I think that our problem is elsewhere...

markfagus

I have a 88 3.0 auto. 260k on it. The original HG was just replaced. Like many others I dont understand why so many people complain about being underpowered and gas pigs. Granted, I dont live in a big city and dont do a lot of "city" driving but I consistently get just over 19 MPG here in Albuquerque. As far as being underpowered, sure there are times when I wish I had a little more oomph, but I live at 7000 feet elevation, the speed limit on the highway (I-25) is 75 MPH. I have NO issue getting up to speed, keeping up with traffic, and keeping my speed thru the mountains that surround me.
Not many other cars on the road that have a quarter million miles that car hold a candle to a well cared for 4Runner.

Keep it!!!!!

jarabie

I recently purchased a '92 4 runner. I knew ahead of time that the 3.0 was underpowered but during the test drive l never tried to get it up on the interstate but it ran decent enough for having sat idle for 2 yrs. Immediately after the purchase on my way him I knew I had more on my hands than I had bargained for. Getting onto the interstate was really hairy because it just wouldn't get up to speed. After checking the compression and finding about 65 psi on the #6 I decided to dig in to the engine. After replacing a ruined injector the KS ( not the wire though) water pump, thermostat, timing belt, having the heads resurfaced (the HG was blown at the #6) and valves replaced, and all too end gaskets replaced. I still have the same exact power issue. I'm literally standing on the floorboard at 50 mph an now the tranny isn't shifting. Sound like the perfect time for th 3.4 swap from a donor veh? Any ideas on what the engine issue could be? By the way ran a diagnostic test before new HG's etc. One code= lean exhaust. Tested afterward= no codes

mikeztoyz

You have an automatic and its probably dying. I have a 1988 and a 5 speed I suspect it has blown heads but i can burn the rubber off my rims!! Ill do a compression test to confirm.

markfagus

Jarabie, what are your RPM's at 50 MPH? Does the tranny shift properly thru the gears? How does it sound at idle and at low RPM's? Years ago I had a VW Westphalia Camper that had the same symptoms you describe. Turned out my cat. converter was plugged up. I replaced that and it ran great.

jarabie

I planned on checking the compression again this weekend, if it's good you're saying that the loss of power through all gears Is strictly related to the transmission? I know there is an issue with it because it's not shifting. I haven't really worked on vehicle much so this is all a learning experience. Apologies if my questions seem a little stupid.

Crimson Yota

I have a 1990 3.0 automatic, 225K miles on it and it still runs great. original HG and everything, the PO hardly ever changed the oil too. Was sludge when I bought it, but so far no major problems. When it does blow I'll either swap in a 3.4 or just repair the HG and go for another 200K

markfagus

Does it idle ok (without a miss) and does it rev up fine when you are sitting in Park? If both those answers are yes, I think you have a transmission solenoid issue.

jarabie

Before I did all the work to the engine my rpms at 50 were anywhere between 2800 and 3500 I would actually have to lift my foot off of the accelerator to get it to shift into OD. I know for a fact that the cat is a no. Issue because that wa my first thought. Temp gun showed it running significantly hotter than the exhaust pipe so I figure it was clogged and cut it off, I needed new exhaust anyhow. Gotta love Florida no emissions checks.

markfagus

what about the previous questions I asked?

jarabie

It revs fine in park although the pedal feels a little hard to push to me but I've never driven an older runner like that so I have nothing to judge it by. There is a miss at idle though. I'm going to check the timing again before I do the compression check to make sure it's spot on.