4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Typically that is a good check to do, with the front wheels hanging down as far as they can, turn the steering wheel to one side and the other and spin the wheel or the CV axle shaft and feel for any binding. If any is felt you can try to lower the front lift or lower the front differential or change out the CVs. Binding like this likely only comes into play off-road, since I can't recall the last time I lifted a front wheel, while in 4WD, on pavement.

ediaz82

Ok so i just read the whole deal on 4crawler i dont plan on doin any wheel in the air driving. So wht i understand is as long as all four wheels are on the ground the cv's are fine? Im gonna look into manual locking hubs. The cheapest way would probably be the diff drop kit right?

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

With manual hubs, unlocked, your front axles will not be moving at all in 2WD. Easy swap, pick up some used Aisin hubs and have at it.

And if your 4WD use does not involve "tire in the air" type terrain, then that will be easier on the CVs. Lifting a front tire puts that CV joint at full droop and it'll spin (unless you have a front locker) and if there is any binding, the CV can be damaged. And with a tire in the air and spinning and then the vehicle moves forward or back and that tire hits the ground, you can have a sudden spike in loads on the wheel and CV joint. And if you do have a front locker and a tire in the air, the tire that is still on the ground will now have all the front end torque going through it (and it's CV joints).

ediaz82

Thanx a lot for ur help i read this whole thread. And i knw wht im gonna do with my lift now i gotta research the hubs and gears. We better change the subject back to lifts before they get at us like dogs on cats for talkin about cv joints again thnx a lot for the help!!!

nathanmyers

well this is about ifs lifts. Lifting a vehicle usually involves doing more then just adding some spacers and longer springs. it can also involve gears, tires, hubs, steering, longer driveshafts, different axle shafts, birfields, wheel spacers and much much more. as far as I am concerned we are still on topic. anyway Wab fab sells nice IFS hubs. $265 a pair but junkyards are also a good place to look. it's usually $50 a pair there but they usually look like S*&^T but they are easy to disassemble, clean up, grease, paint and reassemble. the link below is a good place to buy custom third members with the gears and locked diff you want. they also have ones for the rear. for the rear you can use the 4cy, v6 or fj80 high pinion third members depending on what you want. most people use the v6 in the rear because it is stronger then the 4 cy one and most people don't want high pinion on the rear. i'm sure you can figure out the gears with the little calculator they have on their website.

http://www.justdifferentials.com/ind...oducts_id=2572.

ediaz82

i guess your right we are on the topic after all i am trying to get the perfect lift with the least breaks!!! im doing the lc coil with the bj spacer lift i want to do 33's so from my research 4.88 gears would be ideal for me right? and the manual hub when i call a junk yard wht do i ask for?

nathanmyers

well the gear ratio also depends on your engine and transmission setup so I can't give you a very good answer without more info. 4.88 gears should be about right but maybe not. do you have a 4 cy or V6? do you have an auto, 4 speed or 5 speed? also do you want it geared for 55mph? 60mph? or 65mpg? most people do 60mph. this is also the time to pick between fuel efficiency/top speed and acceleration. you can also pick a middle ground which is what most people do. i guess you call the junkyard and ask to see if they have any freewheeling hubs for an 86-95 4runner or toyota pickup.

ediaz82

Wow i didnt knw there was so much involved its a v6 5speed 3vze wont be doin very much freeway driving only highway 60 - 65 mph i was reading in another thread and remember thinking 4.88 would be the way to go. With that type of lift and that size tire. Where is the best place to find these gears?

nevermind i just seen u had sent me a link earlier pretty spendy im not a speed demon but i like to be able to drive down the highway with a little extra passing power and a gallon or two of fuel when i get there and be able to go up a hill at highway speeds my runner seems a little gut less right now im gonna change the timing belt and all that jazz as soon as im done with the lift

nathanmyers

yea... I agree complete thirds are expensive. but you can get just the gears for about $200 each plus the bearings and stuff. then you could probably find someone around your area that will install them for a reasonable amount but you would be keeping it open. It's just so hard for just anyone to setup gears properly that I highly recommend just letting the pros do it or buying a complete third. you are just not going to be happy with the performance of the engine with 33's and stock gears.

carlo082688

good day, how can i adjust the torsion bar to make the front sag like that?... what direction will i adjust the torsion bar adjusting nut?... my 4runner seems sag in the end so i want to lower the front so i can get that style..

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

A couple of how-to links below:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...nBarAdjustment

You want to loosen pre-load on the bar to lower the ride height.

nathanmyers

you adjust it like you were removing the bolt. But seriously you probably do not want to do that. Do it and drive around the block and you will probably see why. you can always try it. It is after all free and reversible. well good luck.

carlo082688

why?... what will happen if i loosen the torsion bar to lower the front?..

nathanmyers

I have never done it on mine but on other cars I have. The ride will be comfortable until you go around a corner and land on your side.... It will make the clearance worse (not sure if you care about this though). You also can't ever make it perfectly level by using the T-bars. They will fall out far before then. If you are ever flexing it you will not have nearly the same amount of droop on the lower wheel making it come off the ground sooner. you could probably get about an inch lower without really ruining it but I don't really know on this vehicle. it's maybe worth a try though just to see what happens.

monst

I have a 5inch rough country bracket lift, which I want to ditch. I currently sit even. I am thinking I will need to do a combination, smaller Bracket lift + BJ spacers. Anyone running the combo have any advice.

EDIT: it has come to my attention that most people refer to Body Lifts as BL and not referring to Bracket lifts.

They probably dont even make small bracket lifts =\.

nathanmyers

wab fab is having a sale on SAS kits... just so you know. I wouldn't touch a bracket lift. They are just an overpriced way to get no more flex then stock.

monst

I tried to get a quote for kit+install once never heard back.

How much is the kit on sale? I dont see the sale on the website.

nathanmyers

it's not a huge discount on the SAS kits but I think it does include shipping in the price so that's cool. don't forget to use the yotatech discount code if you buy. here is the link. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f221...40-off-262095/

monst

I am close enough to pick it up. I am still curious on labor. Any ideas?

looks like 1000 kit + 300 axle + ?? labor.

nathanmyers

no idea on labor... I live in colorado springs so I know there are some 4x4 shops that would do it around here. I have no idea how much it would cost but it's probably not going to be cheap. there is this one toyota pickup and 4runner guy down here in the springs that might be somewhat reasonable and he will know what he is doing. I don't remember what the place is called though. It's a small 1 stall garage in a low rent district type of place.