22rec Stalls when push in clutch
#1
22rec Stalls when push in clutch
My 22REC is in a 4x4 '86 helix Idles fine fine but when I want to push in the clutch the motor stalls. I can push it in as I give a little gas and as rem-up the motor and let off the gas it stalls. The Dash Pot and VTV are working.
I rebuilt the motor
no dash codes
emission vac lines are all properly installed and new
TPS new and adjusted
Throttle body is clean with no clogged ports
Timing is set
Valves are adjusted
Idle was set with motor warmed up to 750rpm
Air valve passes inspections as I followed the deals tech book (ohms&pinch hose)
new cap & rotor
Start injector s/w passes
Water temp sensor passes
new plus and gaped
So the truck wants to stall or does when I push in the clutch
This my be an important clue.....from the best I can tell when the motor if cold; there are no stalling or other problems
I bet this an easy solution but I'm out of Ideas. I hate being out smarted by my truck!!
Looking for answers
Thanks to all whom response
I rebuilt the motor
no dash codes
emission vac lines are all properly installed and new
TPS new and adjusted
Throttle body is clean with no clogged ports
Timing is set
Valves are adjusted
Idle was set with motor warmed up to 750rpm
Air valve passes inspections as I followed the deals tech book (ohms&pinch hose)
new cap & rotor
Start injector s/w passes
Water temp sensor passes
new plus and gaped
So the truck wants to stall or does when I push in the clutch
This my be an important clue.....from the best I can tell when the motor if cold; there are no stalling or other problems
I bet this an easy solution but I'm out of Ideas. I hate being out smarted by my truck!!
Looking for answers
Thanks to all whom response
#2
If I push on the switch/button at the C-pedal no reaction to engine rpm at all, BTW.
The rebuild I did included a complete head, Timing chain kit, rings and rod bearings only. I have no cherry picker so I did the short block in place without touching the clutch or motor mounts in anyway. I removed the oil pan by removing the front differential instead. This just worked better for me this time around.
engine had about 50k on it but it back fired and blew #3 cylinder, the "plastic t-chain rails were in the bottom of the oil pan. Now I have a steel one in there.
In the morning I'm going to re-check the Air valve. and the wires that plug into it.
Thanks
The rebuild I did included a complete head, Timing chain kit, rings and rod bearings only. I have no cherry picker so I did the short block in place without touching the clutch or motor mounts in anyway. I removed the oil pan by removing the front differential instead. This just worked better for me this time around.
engine had about 50k on it but it back fired and blew #3 cylinder, the "plastic t-chain rails were in the bottom of the oil pan. Now I have a steel one in there.
In the morning I'm going to re-check the Air valve. and the wires that plug into it.
Thanks
#3
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
How do you start the truck??
If your clutch safety switch is hooked up and working like it should you need to have the clutch pushed in to start??
Can you get the transmission into gear at all??
The only thing I can think of is you have shorted a wire under the dash that happens when you move the clutch.
It would be pretty hard to do this at the slave cylinder with out seeing it.
This happens only when pushing the clutch in not when letting the clutch out??
Does it keep running at a idle fine as long as you don`t push in the clutch?
If your clutch safety switch is hooked up and working like it should you need to have the clutch pushed in to start??
Can you get the transmission into gear at all??
The only thing I can think of is you have shorted a wire under the dash that happens when you move the clutch.
It would be pretty hard to do this at the slave cylinder with out seeing it.
This happens only when pushing the clutch in not when letting the clutch out??
Does it keep running at a idle fine as long as you don`t push in the clutch?
#5
How do you start the truck??
If your clutch safety switch is hooked up and working like it should you need to have the clutch pushed in to start??
Can you get the transmission into gear at all??
The only thing I can think of is you have shorted a wire under the dash that happens when you move the clutch.
It would be pretty hard to do this at the slave cylinder with out seeing it.
This happens only when pushing the clutch in not when letting the clutch out??
Does it keep running at a idle fine as long as you don`t push in the clutch?
If your clutch safety switch is hooked up and working like it should you need to have the clutch pushed in to start??
Can you get the transmission into gear at all??
The only thing I can think of is you have shorted a wire under the dash that happens when you move the clutch.
It would be pretty hard to do this at the slave cylinder with out seeing it.
This happens only when pushing the clutch in not when letting the clutch out??
Does it keep running at a idle fine as long as you don`t push in the clutch?
Changes gears easily too
no problems when i let out the clutch; it's only when I push in the clutch.
I'll idle no problem hot or cold. ....till i clutch
If I hold the rpms up and push&holding the clutch in I can keep it from stalling. So I take foot off accelerator and it dies, but if I let off the acc slowly I can keep it running at idle with the clutch held in.
I'm sure it's not the safety switch down there but I'm going to override it anyway till i figure this out.
ty
#6
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
The clutch safety switch only keeps it from cranking when the clutch is not pushed in The clutch safety switch just allows the coil on the starter relay to complete the circuit
It makes no strange noises when you push in the clutch.
I have never heard of something like this..
Good luck please let us know how this plays out:jessica:
It makes no strange noises when you push in the clutch.
I have never heard of something like this..
Good luck please let us know how this plays out:jessica:
#7
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GyLW4d4m2aE
I made this video cause I want someone to tell me what the knocking sound is....My 1st guess is a wrist pin. But at the end of it I stepped on the clutch and you can see that it almost stalls but didn't this time around. ...I still haven't went back to work on/re-inspect the Air control valve
Thanks for keep in up Wyoming9
And LOL now you have heard of something like this. ..it just isn't logical to me, but I'm a chef not a mechanic. pretty soon I'll be the go to guy on this EFI system. I've learned a lot this week but apparently not enough yet.
I made this video cause I want someone to tell me what the knocking sound is....My 1st guess is a wrist pin. But at the end of it I stepped on the clutch and you can see that it almost stalls but didn't this time around. ...I still haven't went back to work on/re-inspect the Air control valve
Thanks for keep in up Wyoming9
And LOL now you have heard of something like this. ..it just isn't logical to me, but I'm a chef not a mechanic. pretty soon I'll be the go to guy on this EFI system. I've learned a lot this week but apparently not enough yet.
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#9
It didn't stall this time, but almost did., If I remmed up the engine with the clutch in and quickly took foot off accelerator it would have died. the truck was at normal operation temp in the video.
Last edited by James S; 05-05-2012 at 04:21 PM.
#12
Its interesting how when depressing the clutch would cause the engine to stall.... I would not suspect anything to be wrong with the clutch itself.... The clutch is attached to the input shaft of the transmisson which is allways turning with the clutch pedal not pressed which is a load on the engine....
When depressing the clutch pedal you are acctually releasing the load from the engine and disconnecting the inputshaft and clutch disc from the flywheel....
Possible worn clutch pressure plate and or release bearing keeping the clutch disc slight engaged while depressing pedal....
Suggest clutch kit to fix.
Noise in video sounds like connecting Rod bearing as it is increased with engine speed....
Hard to tell 100% in video i would suspect the engine has a bent connecting rod.
Wrist pins are normally a loud rapid "tap" rather than a knock which i hear in the video...
When depressing the clutch pedal you are acctually releasing the load from the engine and disconnecting the inputshaft and clutch disc from the flywheel....
Possible worn clutch pressure plate and or release bearing keeping the clutch disc slight engaged while depressing pedal....
Suggest clutch kit to fix.
Noise in video sounds like connecting Rod bearing as it is increased with engine speed....
Hard to tell 100% in video i would suspect the engine has a bent connecting rod.
Wrist pins are normally a loud rapid "tap" rather than a knock which i hear in the video...
Last edited by Kiroshu; 05-05-2012 at 08:09 PM.
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