swampfox

check the volt meter and make sure you have it on dc . 130 volts is way off, unless it is plugged into a outlet on the house.

1990yota-pickup

ya, tell me about that..


what it sounds like to me is that the secruity system that was in there went into lock mode and is prevent power to your coil...

did up some instruction on how to install that old secruity system.. ie pull off the relay that is plugged in to your igniton system..


you could always run a alternate postive wire to your postive side of your coil.. if you can already get it to crank over should be able to start.. aslong you got power down to your fuel pump...


the best thin i can say is get a few copys of the wiring schematic and get them lamenated in clear plastic.. then get dry erase markers and start tracing lines like a monkey in a lab...


you will figure it out.. just dont over whelm yourself... its really not that ... relax.. take a deep breath and remind your self how much a new truck would cost you.... and motovate your self to fix it or pay someone to fix it... still cheapper then buy a new trucks.. so no worries... dont stress this issue..

i've i was you i would just go buy a a whole new wiring harness and redo all the wiring

check painless preformance for wiring kits... or go the most expesive routue and see how much a new wiring harness would cost from toyota...

erock13

thank you.. i havent touched it in the past couple days due to studying and stuff.. im now basically trying to put the wiring to stock as much as i can, and i know its bein a royal pain right now, but ill take my 210,000 mile, rough and tough truck anyday over any other truck.. this is prolly the first problem in the 5 months ive had it, besides all the stuff it took to get it runnin right when i originally got it.. but i cant find any kind of wiring schematics in the serv manual, i can trace the electrical path from the battery to the ignition to the starter and coil and everything, its got that, but im lookin for somethin to outline the actual wires.. if i jus cant get it though ill jus take it down to a place i know of that specializes in older toyotas..

erock13

it is linked into the alarm somehow though.. actually i did find the ign switch schematics and the lighting schematics, and whatever part of the alarm wiring thats left is keeping the gauge completely motionless besides the idiot lights, and looking at it, it seems like its keeping the switch in the off position so that it cant start.. idk, i gotta dig a little more..

1990yota-pickup

u digg enough and u will find gold..

sk8r89

might check your starter relay could have shorted it and check your wiring harnes to make sure you didnt burn some wires up!

toynado

is this a large wire high watt amp?
you sed it sparked, so at least one of those wires wuz live
and you opened the circuit when you cut the wire
so now it sounds like THAT wire is the cause of no volts to key switch
check for volts at key or starter little white wire if key has volts

dntsdad

You say that you have the dash apart so you should be able to see the back of the ignition switch. From there there is a bundle(loom) of large gauge wires. there you have battery feed, ignition, accessory, and starter.

The larger white is battery (always has 12volts)
The large black red and black yellow are ignition (12V when key on, cranking, or running)
The black (or black white...cant remember off top of my head) is starter, but you have that through this other switch apparently. (only 12v when cranking)

I would suspect that your previous owner was an idiot and wired the alarm and the amp to the same feed and when you shorted out that wire it took out the alarm as well and interrupted the ignition circuit.

Follow ignition wires that I listed above and see if they are cut and spliced into anything else that doesnt look factory, or into a set of different color wires that do not look factory. A tell tale sign is butt connectors that will be blue or yellow depending on the size. They could also go into a relay that looks like this:


If you find any of these things, rejoin your factory wires and it should start.

If none of this makes sense, or you dont see anything that I described, take some good quality photos of everything you can under the DRIVERS side dash (around steering column, ignition switch, kick panel, etc,) and post them or email them to me and I will try to steer you from there if I can. If I cant, and you do not know how to post, I will post them for you.

dntsdad@comcast.net

Also, fix that push button. There are plenty of trucks your year being parted out in the "for sale" section. Hit someone up for a ignition cylinder and key. Should be able to get one for $10. While you have it apart, change it now. Its a 30 second job.
1. Put your key in and turn to acc.
2. Push the small button on the ign cylinder housing
3. Gently pull the key toward you (out) and cylinder will come out in your hand.
4. Take new cylnder and put key in and turn to acc.
5. Push in housing in the truck (where old one was) will you hear it click
6. done

Too bad you werent closer, I love finding the problem on stuff like this. I'd come over and do it for free!

dntsdad

Wait. I was looking at the wrong name. Where are you?

erock13

well, after checking the main fuses again to make sure they didnt blow again or underneath somewhere i couldnt see, i tried to get the AM1 Glow 80A fuse off and its stuck on there.. So I tried prying it off with my fingers and wiggling it around for a little bit to no success.. Then I tried some long noses.. Well, all they did was break the plastic off, and no matter where I grab I jus end up breaking more off.. Is there some trick to gettin it off?

myyota

If your talking about the 80 amp fuse in the fuse box under the hood, it doesn`t pull out, That fuse holder slides out of the main fuse box housing from the bottom, and then you need to unbolt the fuse to remove it.

erock13

alright.. i got it running.. as happy as I am, i feel incredibly stupid.. there was a huge bundle of wires over at the pass side that ran from under the truck into the cab under the pass seat.. well the amp wires were a part of this bundle and I cut em all off, but the wires that ran under the truck into the cab were for the fuel pump and other things, and until today, I completely forgot I had done that.. Silver lining in it all is that I got rid of a butt load of wires and useless relays, and fixed a couple other things while I was at it, and it seems to start up alot quicker than it used to as well.. But lesson learned, always double check the wires, Im jus glad its runnin again, even if I am an idiot..

myyota

As long as you figured out the problem and got it running again, thats all that counts.

1990yota-pickup

go, write up a bill of sale and spend the money you saved by doing the work your self and go by some new tools