could it be an electrical problem to the inectors? Not building up pressure or something?

 

where is the location of the cold start injector? Cleaning up grounds for ecu and any others i can find.

 

Middle-Top of the Plenum, facing diagonally upward-toward driver side. (CSI Location).

It doesn't start, yes, got it.... But does the PUMP, itself, hum, when you jump it?

Check for spark, FIRST! If you've got 'no spark', you get no fire. (Place pulled plug wire up against block or attach plug wire tester.

Check for 'CLICK' as you turn the key, just before you turn it over, in the glove box area, .... Cicuit Open Relay, under glove box(?? Guys ??... Couldn't this allow cranking but not spark? Sorry, having a block right now, lol)

PS> Start a thread yet? I would BET you'll get around 10X the hits.

 

Tippy ended up getting a cab swap with a 22re But yeah I am watching this thread in case I have similar issues once we get the timing set on it tomorrow...

 

pump hums when i jump it. Should i hear it with just the key on not jumped tho? Have good spark on all cylenders. Hear the OC click when turning the key. Ill start one tonight if i dont get results

 

COR is only for the fuel pump. When you turn the key to the STA position, voltage is supplied to the L3 coil in the rely. Then, once the key falls back to IG position, the AFM (Fc circuit....fuel control switch) takes over running the pump.....voltage then being supplied to the L2 coil of the relay. If you can hear the relay click when you turn the key, that means it's activating.

So, you'll only hear the pump run for a couple of seconds with the key turned to the start (STA) position.....or should, anyway. (IOW's, that's what would be normal. It's possible the COR can melt or corrode causing the fuel pump to continuously run, but that's another story that obviously doesn't apply here) Anyway, with the terminals jumped, you've bypassed the COR and AFM circuits and voltage is going directly to the pump. It should continue to run under this circumstance.

The hissing you hear around the fuel rail could be a small vacuum leak. That shouldn't keep it from starting. However, if the hissing is a vacuum leak around the injector o ring that seals it from the manifold, that could be an issue. Not sure if it would be enough to cause it not to start, though. Seems to me it would have to be a large leak, but I could be wrong given that's such a critical area.

Note, also, that hissing sounds can be hard to trace. I mean it could sound like it's coming from one particular spot, but noise does travel. Play around with vacuum lines and even wiggle the injector in question with a pair of long needle nose pliers. See if you can detect an audible change in the hiss. I just found that I have slight leak at the throttle body and intake tube using that little trick. Need new hose clamp, me do.

Injectors don't build pressure, per se. Pressure in the fuel rail is mainly created by the fuel pressure regulator and the volume of fuel the pump is able to deliver. Of course, things like the fuel filter, the filter on the pump, restrictions in fuel lines, and operating temps affect pressure. Then, there's the fuel pulse dampener that evens out the pressure. Everytime the injectors pulse fuel there are minute drops in pressure. The valve in the dampener moves in and out in response to that. Kind of a crude way of describing it, but nevertheless....

If the motor will atleast crank, even though it won't start, you should be able to hear the injectors pulsing. They will make a ticking noise which you can hear much better if you have a stethoscope. They're cheap at AutoZone. Good tool to have.........really.

Did the motor have any running issue before you starting having problems getting it to start? Or, was this just out of the blue?

 

so fuel pump is getting 10.4v when cranking, that seems ok. Was not getting any power to injectors at the ecu pins no. 10/no. 20 and E1. Then went to the resister and getting 12v to the (+)( the resistor was getting really hot) was getting 4.5v to the (-) wires. FSM Says it should be 9-14v is that the two combined or each? Any easy way to pull an injector off to test power to them.

 

Can you show me what page you were/are looking at?

 

ok so im able to get 12v on wires no.10 and no.20 at the connector to the ecu. But only when that conncetor is not hooked up to the ecu. As soon as i plug the conncetor to the ecu in voltage drops to zero. FSM says voltage shouls be 9-14 volgs with key on. All the other voltage they give me are correct. Also pulled the cold start injector its spraying and not leaking also resistance in spec. Dont have my FSM with right now but everything is out of the efi section. Did compression with in spec on all cylenders. Used a stethoscope to lissen to the injectors heard a click from the first crank counln't really hear if it did it multiplu time, sounded the same on all the inmectors

 

How's your coil, Ignitor and Pick up/Air Gap?

PS> I'm learning on the ECU info you've shared..so I'll leave that to Thook, lol.

 

ignitor and coil tested out to fsm. Getting a nice spark on all 4 wires.

 

put my ecu into a known good truck and no go so got a good ecu will post later if it works

 

DANG, TB! That would be 3 cases of bad ECU's in the last couple months, should it work out to be your issue. You tested all the connectors to the ECU, unplugged, to make sure you were getting the right resistance and all that, right? Either way, ...seems pretty clear cut that's your issue! Wow! I had issues with mine, too, TB... Hope it solves all your woes!

Best wishes,

Mark

 

truck runs. Got some fuel in the oil that from jumping the fuel pump?

 

GREAT! HOW is it running, for one? Secondly, ....I guess if you've flooded it good, somehow, it could have wound up leaking past the rings into the crankcase/oil pan. First of all, if you've got fuel in the oil, you need to drain it, no question about it. It might happen again, if you've got other issues...but at least you won't be running extremely thinned out oil in the mean time, ya know? Pretty sure that happens, most often, when either the rings are a bit worn or when it's extremely flooded when not running(meaning, you've been tinkering with the fuel pump a lot while the truck wasn't running.) However, I would think it would have to be running in order for the injectors(if they're tightly sealed up and not leaking) to fire into the cylinder. I guess somehow you were getting them to fire fuel in the cyl's... which with any wear at all would leak past the rings I would imagine. If they(the injectors) were firing, but the ECU was bad in that it wasn't allowing spark at that point due to misreading things, ...I guess that could be the cause. First drain the oil, ok?

Is the COR and Fuel Pump, etc., all coming on at the right time now, on their own, without jumping the pump, etc?

 

PS> You've really confused me, here, lol. Not sure why, but the thread you started wasn't informing me that you were posting... and I subscribe, automatically, to every thread I post on. Ok, well, I will drag my above post over to your other thread, hahaha.

 

after having put the new ecu in and running my truck for a while it seemed ok. Tryed to fire it up the next day didn't want to start low battery was that cause. Next day no crank even with good battery. Did see some smoke around the steering colum when it was running. Though code 6 while it was running.

 

i have a 85 4runner fsm its got testing for the ignitor should those specs be good for a 86?

 

was an idiot when i rerouted the ecu i didn't get one of the conector all the way pluged in.

 

Does this mean your issue is solved? That's great, if so. And, well, don't feel too bad, ...everyone on here(some wont admit it) has done some dumcoff moves, lol. Better update your other threads, lol.

PS> In that one I gave you every page you'd need from the proper FSM and didn't hear back from you...is this why?(bcuz you figured out it was the wiring?)