The '88 FSM shows the washer in the diagram on page EM-13. On page EM-17, for the 22re they call it the camshaft thrust plate and for the 22r there is a fuel pump drive cam.

My 85 & 86 22re's have the washer.

I'm having a similar issue on my 86, but I have the washer.

 

Exactly what i saw. I called the dealers around me, of course no one had the thrust plate washer in stock. I got the fuel pump drive from a buddy off a 22r. I ground off the outer ring and ground it down to the size of the washer. They are both the same thickness aprox .080" It's fixed now. LC Eng. even sells the stupid washer. I explained my whole problem to them when i ordered the adj. cam gear and they never even mentioned i needed the washer even though their instructions say so. Makes me wonder if they know wtf they are doing. Anyway doesn't matter it's fixed now and the adj. cam gear is awesome!! Now if i could only get it to pass NJ's emission inspection.

 

finally!!


I'm dying here fellas, my RTE is running great at @30° BTDC runs, idles and drives ok, till you hit her hard(advance), driving around 4k rpms and she cuts back. I believe it's b/c the timing parameters are out.

I seem to be having some problems similar to you

see here: RTE will not idle and left over night seems to start w/ low compression and tick


i could use all the help I can, she's about one foot in the grave. I'm about to donate her for the $5 and sledge all you want, or to MythBusters to see what a vehicle looks like after a tank has run it over....


She has only minor surface rust so I'm gonna H8 to see her go...but she's already cost me in thousands in pain and suffering.

Oh yeah, and I've put tons of REs together but just can't seem to get this one.

all help will be mucho appreciated, THX


EDIT** whoops, I bought a cam gear partly b/c of what I herd here. Did you have to degree your cam? or did you just get it close and nail it?


How does this look?

 

I am dredging this thread up because I am having the exact same issue with my 88 4runner.

With the jumper in place I can either get 0 deg BTDC or 8 BTDC (spec is 5 deg BTDC). I have pulled the dizzy about a dozen times trying to offset it by less, but it really seems I am ½ a tooth off.



Any other ideas?



Background info:

When I jump the connector to set base ign timing the idle drops and ignition timing drops about 5 degrees.

The rig runs great other than that when I have it in the 0 deg setting it gives the classic symptoms of wanting a little more timing (duh I guess).

The rig runs amazing (in my driveway) when I have it in the 8 deg setting. I haven’t loaded up the engine to see if it pings.

It does have the spacer on the camshaft (as did the original OEM engine and the first rebuild engine).

I just finished putting the 22re in, the engine failed under warrantee, so it had to go back to the machine shop and redone.

I the dizzy is new with this engine because of wear on the gear.

 

The rotor should pointing at 10 o'clock with the crank pulley notch set to 5* btdc on the compression stroke. If it's there, you have the distributor installed correctly and your problem is with something else.

 

Thank you, I will check that tonight.

This weekend I adjusted the valves, and took a look at crank to cam timing (hypothesis being the timing chain is off one tooth.) With the #1 cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke the cam was pointed just slightly to the pass side (11:45ish I would say), which seems to align with what everyone says it needs to be.

 

I took a look last night and by the precise measuring device I call my eye, I am going to say it’s about 11 o clock.

NOTE: I am running an extra 4ish deg of timing currently.


Thoughts?

 

as much as i hate to say it im on board for man cave timing still LOL!

 

Don't be ashamed of a good thing...unless its just you and me that feel that way.

 

I effectively am doing cave man timing now, it’s just these 22re’s are a touch fragile when it comes to head gaskets, so I am a bit gun shy. If this was a SBC I wouldn’t even be batting an eye.
I guess what I don’t know is where Toyota put the ignition timing in respect to maximum brake torque (MBT) for these trucks.
It’s pretty common with older EFI and carb systems (especially in trucks) to not be on the top of the MBT curve, but to be a degree or two retarded for safety margin. That means your total safety margin is more like 3-4 degrees (most engines don’t start pinging until a few degrees after MBT). This would ensure that if you are pulling baker grade in august or running from loyalist troops in the African desert loaded to the max GCWR the engine isn’t going to start pinging on you.

You guys doing it cave man style, how much initial and total timing are you running? When does the total timing come in?

 

I'd say by the photo the rotor's too far ahead. Pull the dizzy back out and reset it back a tooth, but make sure the notches on the shaft are lined up first. Just try and get the rotor at 10 o'clock.

 

I have done that a couple of dozen times, going on either side by a tooth, but it needs to be 1/2 a tooth.

UPDATE:

I think I figured out the issue, I put my factory Toyota dizzy back in this weekend (it was replaced due to timing gear wear) and I could time the truck perfectly. I believe the aftermarket replacement dizzy is made/machined wrong. I ordered up a new one and will see if I can find a replacement that doesn’t have this problem.

 

ive been havin same problem ive had 3 different motors in this truck and same thing not enough power . wheni got it it had 35s and 410s so i downgraded to 33s no difference i can haul a truck and trailor full and no difference in power , i even went down to a 30 and same thing still havin to criuse in 4th at 55-60 pedal to floor. ive put new tps , 02 sensor swapped out afms total ignition tune up any advise out there thanx in advance

 

I'm having the same problem as you are. Nothing after like 3k rpm wondering how you fixed the problem

 

Old thread I know but just wanted to chime in for anyone reading in the future. I had the same exact problem. My OEM distributor had a worn pickup coil and Toyota discontinued the coil and the distributor unit as a whole so I had to get a remanufactured unit from NAPA. Well, I installed it and immediately I noticed a problem ... just to get to 5 degree BTDC I had to advance the distributor all the way until it was hitting the bolt and it would just reach the 5 degree mark at that point, I tried moving it over a tooth in each direction but it was no good and actually trying to stab it with the rotor pointing upward was difficult it wanted to go a tooth off no matter what. I pulled it and took it back to Napa and compared it to my core and low and behold you could clearly see the drive gear was pressed on wrong on the remanufactured dizzy. the gear was clocked wrong so it was never going to line up correctly. I had them get me a second unit and all has been good since then. it's frustrating getting a new part and having it be wrong from the get go, especially when troubleshooting other problems in the chain. it's why I try to get OEM parts when possible but Toyota is slowly phasing out some parts for these trucks, unfortunately.