I can't seem to find an answer to this anywhere, but for whatever reason both my toyota and haynes manuals say the 8mm bolts should be 9 ft-lb and the 10mm bolts 29 ft-lb on the timing cover. I haven't found any 8mm bolts in the timing covers on either of the 22r-e's in my driveway, and the 10's are limited to the water pump. so what of the 12mm and 14mm? should I just resort to a standard torque chart for these? both toyota and haynes seem to have typo'd this and I can't find much documentation other than 'rtfm'

or am i just overlooking something? someone please shine some light before I do something bad like shear a bolt in my timing cover again

 

I believe they're speaking of the diameter of the bolt, itself.. not the size of the socket that goes on. For instance, the bolts that go in at the top left, through the AC brace, ...they're 10mm, thicker than the ones elsewhere which you can tell when they're out, .... are smaller bolts in diameter(8mm). I believe they're all either 1.25-M10 or 1.25-M8.

PS> Don't forget to slather some sealant on the Top-Left Bolt that goes through the oil pump/timing cover. MUST have sealant on the end of it and about a 1/4" or so down the threads.

 

Ooooo.....Chef. Good post! <<<applause!!!>>>

 

PSS> If you have to pull them to be sure, ....DO IT! lol.. Actually, I'm serious...there's perfectly good reasons for the different specifications of torque... That chain is VERY close to things in there and if you over-torque certain ones.... well, have you ever over torqued a valve cover on one of these? That's why, not to mention some areas are much more vulnerable to cracking of the timing cover due to over torquing, I would imagine. Same with the oil pan... my PO over tightened them and it causes a bending of the pan, most often... I got lucky, ...he used so much RTV it didn't bend(concave) any of the bolt holes on the pan.

Best wishes on the finishing up here(what it sounds like to me, ...am I right? haha)

Take care,

Mark

 

ah that's why. now i feel dumb having completely overlooked that after tapping the holes with the appropriate taps, with the sizes plainly on them

thanks chef

also RE the sealant bolt, i smeared some on there and applied it to the back of the hole just to be safe

yea finishing up. sort of. got the head apart right now and the valve seats look pretty unhealthy back to the machine shop it looks like.

 

HEYYYYYYY, it's Matthew, my Brutha from Anotha! lol... Sorry I posted again before seeing you there.

Why thank you, kind sir! lol. I actually got a 'however many times now' review of this over the last week or so, when re-doing Rob2Techs timing cover and intake bolts.(The latter being 14#'s torque, every one... also VERY important! lol... Oh yeah, so is sealant, eh? hahaha.

 

Sweet! And nahhhhhh, don't feel dumb.... Read through my build or troubleshooting thread sometime...you'll see me laughing at myself SEVERAL Times... Thanks to good people like Matthew(thook) there, well, I'm not finding myself 'feeling' so 'derrrrrrrrrr' any more, hahaha.

Have a good'n... and good job on the tappin em out. Were they all nersty?

 

The head? Hmmmm, did you recently have the head done and you're not liking what you see? Orrrrrrr, is it just 'that time'?

I've spent months chasing a mysterious gremlin that APPEARS to be my CAM(well, the cam, FOR SURE, is LUNCH! ....what I mean is, ...Hoping that's ALL that's wrong and that it will solve my mysterious miss).......... And I mention this all, because, ..... THANK GOODNESS, if it's the former case(head just done) that you saw it now, eh???

Best wishes dealing with the Machine shop... Hope it's a good one!

 

Don't feel dumb, fork. That's a very common source of confusion.

And, Chef!.....what the heck you apologiz'n fo? Haven't we talked about that? <<<smacks Cheferoni in the arm>>>>

Your welcome, but hey....it was a good post. Kudos where they're due!

I thought sealant went on after assembly......

 

real nasty. this poor engine has definitely seen better days. i was only planning on a head gasket job when, after removing the head, figured out the timing chain guides were invisible. at this point the head was off as well as almost everything else, which is when i remembered the main pulley needs to come off. i had to get creative with a wrench/flywheel/bellhousing :X but i got the bolt free without shearing any teeth! luckily this thing has a 4" bracket lift, getting the oil pan out required nothing more than removing the swaybar. now i have souvenir timing chain guide chunks in my driveway

yea i took the head in for resurfacing only, thinking i could get away with that. then i decided to pull the valves, so this is going to set me back a while/$. next time i wont be cheap and ill have it apart prior to bringing it in, and opt for a complete head job instead. less trips to the machine shop that way

also this cam may be close to toast also. #4 intake lobe has a huge ridge, and the follower was worn to hell

 

Go to www.engnbldr.com ...... one of the best guys I've ever dealt with and he'll set you up proper for MUCH cheaper than many others out there. You might be able to get away with this 'valve job, etc.' for a lot cheaper than you think,...worth a quick call, eh?

Best wishes, start a build thread when you do, I'll watch!

 

PS> <<<< Apologizes to Matthew, gets slugged again, then rubs arm and laughs at self!"

 

I confess; I broke two bolts when reinstalling my timing cover during my rebuild...

 

Ouch, Travis! .... That musta had yer heart pounding with fury&worry, eh? lol. Did you pull the rest back off, pull the cover and back them out?

 

yeah I had to