Hello everyone,

Firstly, thank you all for posting. This community has been a very valuable resource to me already, though this is my first time contributing to a thread. I have a 1991 4x4 pickup, 22re, engine overheated after driving the truck across the country. After she overheated, I saw thee globby gray goo under the oil filler cap, and I drove her to the shop. They told me there might be a timing chain problem, as they could hear a rattle at high RPM. They did a sniffer test and detected low levels of hydrocarbons in the exhaust, and were hesitant to diagnose a head gasket leak. They said if there was a leak, it was slight as of yet. They focused more on the timing chain sound. Said it was ok to drive, so long as it didn't belch the white smoke and didn't continue to overheat. I was scared, so I just parked the vehicle.

When I tried to fire it up a week later, that nasty white smoke started to show up. Didn't drive her anywhere, just shut her off. I saw some threads on here about the timing chain chewing through the TC cover, so figured I'd check it out. Pulled the valve cover this afternoon and it was a MESS inside.

Timing chain guide is obliterated on driver's side. Chain has been chewing into the cover on that side. How can I tell if the chain has chewed through the cover wall totally, and determine whether this is the route of entry for coolant/water that is gunking everything up?

Also, any recommendations on how to go about cleaning the gunk out of the engine? Will I need to remove the head at this point, just to clean everything out- even if the head gasket is ok?

Again, thank you all SO much for your help. Pics coming soon!

 

do a compression test, leak down test, and go ahead and get ready to service the timing chain. May as well get the cover while you're at it as it would be smart on your part to be safer than waiting for parts. If it is the head gasket you still have to do the t-chain and you'll have the motor half way torn down any way so there's your answer. Plan to do the t-chain and check to make sure you need a head gasket. If you do need the head gasket the leak down test and a compression test will tell you for sure.

 

If you pull the valve cover and then use a coolant system pressure tester you should be able to see coolant coming in through the timing cover.

Really there's only a few places where you can end up with oil/water contamination. Headgasket and timing cover are the top two. If your driver's side chain guide is destroyed I would start there. Think about it, the plastic guide goes and now you have steel timing chain versus aluminum timing cover, I've got my money on the chain winning.

 

How many miles? Are you able to do the work yourself? Figure on reconditioning the head plus timing set and timing cover. Lots of people like the steel timimg guide replacements; I'd stick with Toyota parts. New water pump while you're at it. Check the block deck surface for possible warping depending on how bad it overheated. Good luck. My $0.02

 

This https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...cement-212688/ thread is going to be your best friend if you do this yourself.

I've been reading it since I am going to have to do this myself soon

 

i had this problem way back before i rebuilt my engine. the previous owners let the timing chain eat through the timing cover and overheated the engine to many times. had to rebuild. so to start you will need new timing chain, cover, water pump, and gaskets. don't forget the rtv.

 

Thank you all for the feedback so far!

Truck has 176,000 miles on it. Timing chain was last done @ 90,000.

Below are a few pics of what the situation was looking like under the valve cover. Pretty funky. Tracks from the TC rubbing were ~1 mm deep toward the top and maybe 2-3 mm deep toward the bottom.

HawkStrong16, the link you suggested contains VERY similar images... great lead. Thank you.

Any suggestions on what I should do to protect the engine from the elements while I have the valve cover off to work/explore this stuff? Concerned about rusting... also, how sould I go about cleaning these pooled up areas of goo underneath the valve cover? Is it safe to dab them up with a cloth?

You guys are the best. Thanks so much.

 

If your t-chain cover is toast.... you SHOULD pull the oil pan, lots of bad things will more than likely be in the pan.
while it can be done in the truck it is a bit easier to pull out the whole engine, IMHO.
If you are on a budget, who isn't that is driving a 20YO truck, leaving it in and fighting it may be cheaper, but take a bit longer and polish the thing if the time is there.

As to removing the gunk, anything that will work.
I used lots of rags, some spray parts cleaner, more rags then a parts cleaner tank to wash my stuff up prior to painting/ rebuilding.
Even gas works, hand will hurt,headaches ensue and the flames.

I found this first link to be good solid info, and links to great stuff you'll need for tuning later
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ds/index.shtml

And these links have great pics, good on the ground fixes and F&@$ ups
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ebuild-192584/

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ctures-181237/

My last few words for now, get a box of zip lock bags and a few sharpie pens.
label and photograph all items, I even went as far as taking pictures and putting the frame # on the zip lock baggies.
Those last two threads have great pics for Items you may be installing later (AC for me) or items that were not photographed well.

These are easy engines, take your time, keep it clean, use the FSM and proper torq specs.

OEM ROCKS but costs... Engine builder seems to be the favorite here and has great service and products.

Read up on Head gaskets everyone has there own opinions and reasons for those opinions, last I knew OEM then Rock then Felpro....

For new "everything" master rebuild kit, clutch, cam, head, sprays and glues..... I ran at about $2K, it can be done for WAY LESS.

Repo

 

So, once I get the TC cover off and inspect, if it turns out that the chain has worn through the wall to the coolant chamber, will replacing the TC cover seal this completely- or will there be another wall on the coolant chamber side that will need to be replaced as well?

 

If this is the cause of your problem, you need to change the timing cover and the timing chain guides. Otherwise without the guides your timing chain will wear through your new cover in no time and you'll be back to where you started from.

 

Timing cover will take car of the coolant-getting-into-engine-oil problem. More concerning is the overheat and "nasty white smoke". Not unlikely that the headgasket failed due to overheat.That's what I would expect. The coolant in the oil probably wouldn't account for the overheat. Coolant in the oil would accelerate engine wear. What caused the overheat? The failed chain guides and grooved timing cover may just be side issues to an overheat/headgasket issue. Like they say above, those links are invaluable, and factory manual pdfs are available here also.

 

read 92 TOY's post above.
then read it again. And again. And again.

He went through what you appeared to do, and he had no experience when he started....but look what he did

You'll want to get the FEK from ENGNBLDR - go to ebay.com and search "ENGNBLDR" - it's less than $150 and has timing chain, cover, water and oil pumps,and needed gaskets. It's a steal.

Also, pull the oil pan....you have crap down there now, and it can clog your oil pickup tube, starving your engine of oil, and killing it. It's a PITA but something you need to address.

Good luck - guys here are great at helping out, keep asking questions if you get stuck!

 

Awesome. Thanks you guys.

Ok, so the sweet white smoke I'm seeing/smelling is indicative of head gasket failure/fluids in combustion chamber- in other words: this white smoke could NOT from seepage into the timing chain/camshaft?

Do you all think it would be possible to remove the front differential(to get at the oil pan) without lifting the truck up on jacks?

Thanks you so much for the help.

 

Forgot to mention that I will grab a compression tester ASAP and repor back to you guys.

Took forever just to get the shield off from under the front bumper today. It was rusted on there pretty well. Looking forward to embarking on this project.

 

That's right

 

Ok, very good to know. Next question: if the white smoke is telling me that there is coolant in the combustion chamber, are leak down/compression tests still necessary. If I will be pulling the head either way, should I just move forward with that?

Also, anyone have link to the definitive newb guide for setting TDC on 22re?

Pulled the spark plugs today. Do you guys think these seem to contain sign of fluids in the combustion chamber?
Thanks for helping a newb. I'm very excited to be learning about this engine.

 

I'm not the guy.... but 1 & 2 look to have issues

Repo

 

the procedure is in the FSM. Just make sure your on TDC compression. (#1 rocker arms loose.

If taking head off, then just follow the FSM.

 

Hi Guys,

Had a chance to pull the fan shroud and radiator this afternoon. Radiator didn't seem to be leaking, it was nice and full when I drained it. However, it looks very rough. Nasty holes toward the bottom and sort of generally eroded looking. Is this ok, or do I need a new radiator?

Next up, removing fan and power steering stuff, then working on finding TDC before pulling distributor. Put her in neutral and turn the crank bolt clockwise for starters, right?

Gracias amigos.

 

hey guys.....PHILBERT.....thanks for the credit man.

That radiator looks like toast....get a new one