Please Help!
22re timing chain cover bolt placement? I had all the bolts in the new cover in the holes they came out of and my "Dumb-@ss so and so" picked it up and turned it over!
Thankfully its only 5 of the 11 that could have fallen out. I have 1 each of these M8x60, M10x66 with Large washer under standard washer, M10x71 threaded about half way, M10x72 threaded most of the way, M10x77 threaded about half way, can anyone help with where they go? I'm in the process of seeing how much bolt each hole will take so I can maybe figure this mess out? But I'm kinda under the gun, rain is in the forecast.

 

See if this helps

 

Yes Thanks it does.
It tells me who ever was here before me was incompetent or just plain stupid! So am I right in thinking that as long as my bolt is shorter than what is called for I'll be alright?

 

The only one that needs to be shorter in order to keep from hitting something is the top oil pump bolt. If it's too long it will reach through the cover and bind up the tensioner. That bolt can be test fitted before you install the new cover, just bolt the pump up to the cover while it's out of the truck and take a look behind the cover to make sure it doesn't stick out.

And I THINK you can go with shorter bolts in other locations as long as they're long enough to engage enough threads to hold well. I vaguely remember that some of my bolts didn't quite match up to that picture either.

 

On the note of the Hidden bolt un the dizzy. Im having trouble torquing the bolt correctly. I measure the depth of the hole and then measure the bolt, they should fit. But when i tighten the bolt it torques out too soon. its almost like im trapping air in the blind hole. Is this possible?

 

Here is a Timing Cover Bolt location/size/torque chart from LCE that can help you make sure you have the right bolts in the correct locations.

 

The TOP bolt on the oil pump goes thru the cover. Put some Toyota FIPG on the end of the bolt inside the cover to keep it from seeping.
Also the "hidden" bolt needs FIPG on the threads and shank or it will seep oil as well.
DO NOT TIGHTEN the cover bolts until you've first torqued the "hidden" bolt out it will CRACK YOUR COVER!! Ask me how I know.
you'll want to dab FIPG in the corners where the timing cover meets the head and the oil pan...
good luck

 

Is the head off, or are you squeezing the cover in between the head and oil pan?

 

There might be debris in the hidden bolt hole...I took an old drill bit BY HAND...
and carefully cleaned out the hole.
Then blew it out with compressed air.

 

I've just finished a nightmare job of putting on a new timing chain kit from LCE and struggled with leaks...
I think I've learned some things that will help you not to have to do that job 6 times like I had to. But, being persistent and creative I won the war.
580 541 2854 if you'd like to walk thru the process on the phone, feel free to call.

 

@13swords and @87-4runner - you are answering a post by a user (kcaudill) from 6 years ago. hope it has been solved by now. nevermind that FGZ already posted the same LCE photo/chart earlier in the thread.

 

Lol yes I was
oh well still might be useful to someone
thank you

 

Somewhere some poor toyota owner still doesnt have that darn timing cover back on.
i stripped threads on that top bolt on my 20r and glued it in with red loctite. Not looking forward to doing the job next time. Im definitely going to order a new cover ahead of time. Also stripped threads on water pump. But it was a quick fix just to get the truck moving enough to put it on a trailer.

Ive got timing chain slap on my 22re and I think Im going to farm it out if the shop price is decent