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Did neighbors hear the engine or your "YAHOOOO!" LOL!
Originally Posted by GreyYota87
I also still need to hunt down the ground issue to the relay so I don't have to have it jumped straight to battery. Hoping that is an easier find then the NE wire lol
Did neighbors hear the engine or your "YAHOOOO!" LOL!
Sorry, which relay again?
HAHA! Probably a little bit of both! Good thing I ran out a beer a few hours ago....I'd be running it lol.
As for the relay, it's the actual starter relay that isn't getting a proper ground. If I don't ground pin 1 of the relay straight to battery negative my relay won't work. The clutch start switch by the pedal is missing so I just have the wires jumped. I know that feeds off the same ground circuit as well. So I'm assuming the issue is in the engine bay somewhere between the switch and the relay....just gotta get into the harness and look.
Got the truck fired up and it sounds great after the rebuild! I'm still having a fuel issue of some sort. If I press the gas pedal down ever so slightly the truck stays running. As soon as I left off it sputters and died out. Sounds like it's not getting the fuel it needs unless pressing on the pedal. I'm still going to check the flow through the regulator just to be safe. Would the next step be checking the TPS?
Set the tps, warm up the engine, set the base idle and timing. If it still doesn't run correctly check the dashpot, throttle linkage and vacuum systems.
So I learned that the throttle body is going to have to come off to properly test and adjust the tps....But I can already see something isn't right! Checking VTA - E2 and I've got nothing!
Alligator clamps on the end of your meter leads makes this easier, you can get a handful of them at wally Mart for a few $. This frees up your hands to put the std screwdriver in the right position and tension to spin the lower screw. If you can't figure that out Homie depot has a screwdriver bent into an S shape meant for taking screws out of door knobs. Both are cheaper than new throttle body gaskets and don't subject you to throttle cable tension and position issues.
Try testing voltage (back probe) at the ECU plug.
late and lazy not gonna link pictures. Look at my thread on the RTE posts #24 and #44 have tps stuff in Gruesome detail.
Adjusting the TPS while on the truck is absolutely doable, but breaking that bottom screw free is definitely a PITA. I've successfully done it a couple times, but recently helping a buddy do his, he stripped the head of that bottom screw and we were forced to unbolt the throttle body to get to it.
As Co_94_PU said, alligator clips make it much, much easier to do, once both screws are loose of course. I got a pack of 30 alligator clips from Amazon for about $8.00 I think, gave all my buddies a set.
So I've been pretty busy and haven't been able to get work done on the truck. Finally got around to adjusting the TPS and oddly it runs even worse now lol. Before I adjusted it, the truck would run if I kept my foot on the pedal slightly. I adjusted the TPS so that it showed open, and had the clearance set to 0.85mm. For some reason with the TPS set properly on the IDL/E2 it runs even worse lol. Who wants to come to California and help out? The coronavirus isn't in my county so you're safe! lol
02-24-2020, 10:51 PM
