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I've been busy the last couple days and haven't had much time to work on the truck. Finally found some time today and I've learned I have a few more issues lol. Thanks to the jerk who sold a "good" harness for a 22re swap....anyways onto the other issues. I wanted to double check my ignition fuse, and while down there checking it I found that my dome light fuse was blown. Went to put in a new fuse and POP! every fuse I put in it blows....so theirs that issue. I also wanted to verify spark to the spark plugs....and of course no spark! I'm getting fuel since they are wet and smell like gas...but damnit no spark now! I check before and I was getting spark...but I've only checked once before.
I'm getting ready to go out and test the coil and see what I get from it...maybe it took a dive on me, but I have a feeling it didn't. Their is some good news out of all this though! I checked to make sure the fuel pump was turning on when pushing on the vane inside the air filter housing and it does in fact turn on the fuel pump. So I'm sure that I wired in the inline fuel pump correctly. Just have to figure out this no spark issue and maybe it'll fire up! If the coil checks out, what else should I be checking? I feel like I'm pretty close!
Update! I had a friend come over with his 88 pickup. We first swapped his coil over to mine to see if that was the issue and still no spark! So we swapped mine back in and then swapped out distributors and finally the truck tried to start. This time it actually tried to start up lol. But I think at this point I've ran into a fuel issue. Pushing on the vane in the air filter turns the pump on like it should. Holding the key in the start position I can hear the fuel pump as well. I'm getting great fuel pressure at the fuel filter by the block. I'll check the injectors tomorrow to see if they themselves are firing.
If I'm not having any issues with the injectors firing, but I'm not getting fuel and the fuel pump is working. What would be my next step to take? If the injectors aren't firing off, I'm sure with the luck it's been it wont just be a fuse and will end up being a harness issue lol
Last edited by GreyYota87; 02-23-2020 at 08:04 PM.
Update! I had a friend come over with his 88 pickup. We first swapped his coil over to mine to see if that was the issue and still no spark! So we swapped mine back in and then swapped out distributors and finally the truck tried to start. This time it actually tried to start up lol. But I think at this point I've ran into a fuel issue. Pushing on the vane in the air filter turns the pump on like it should. Holding the key in the start position I can hear the fuel pump as well. I'm getting great fuel pressure at the fuel filter by the block. I'll check the injectors tomorrow to see if they themselves are firing.
If I'm not having any issues with the injectors firing, but I'm not getting fuel and the fuel pump is working. What would be my next step to take? If the injectors aren't firing off, I'm sure with the luck it's been it wont just be a fuse and will end up being a harness issue lol
Take the fuel return line off the fuel pressure regulator, route this into something to catch fuel and measure the flow rate over a minute with the fuel pump running.
Take the fuel return line off the fuel pressure regulator, route this into something to catch fuel and measure the flow rate over a minute with the fuel pump running.
Just to clarify with this lol, let it pump through the regulator and see how much fuel I get through it correct? I'll check this tomorrow morning and I can get back with how much fuel.
Last edited by GreyYota87; 02-23-2020 at 10:13 PM.
I've once again not been able to help myself and start working on the truck again even into the late hours of the night! I figured I'd take a look at where the injector wires splice together and boy I'm sure glad I did! I'm pretty sure I've found a big cause for lack of fuel. The injectors may be working, but not like they should lol. First thing I'm going to do is fix this issue for sure! And correct me if I'm wrong. But are these the ground wires for the injectors? The blue and yellow wires are the power wires correct?
... But are these the ground wires for the injectors? The blue and yellow wires are the power wires correct?
Yes, the go to negative side of injectors. They go to pins 10 and 20 of the ECU and get ground when ECU pulses.
There should be 2 W-R's and 2 W's from injectors spliced into 1 W-R and 1 W that run to pins 10 and 20 of ECU
Below is schematic of a 1988 22R-E. I believe same as 1986 & 1987.
Yes, the go to negative side of injectors. They go to pins 10 and 20 of the ECU and get ground when ECU pulses.
There should be 2 W-R's and 2 W's from injectors spliced into 1 W-R and 1 W that run to pins 10 and 20 of ECU
Below is schematic of a 1988 22R-E. I believe same as 1986 & 1987.
Yep that's them! Tomorrow morning I'm cutting the wires back and soldering them back together before I try to fire it up. The crimps for the yellow and blue aren't that bad, but their is a little corrosion so I'll get them while I'm in there.
Well a cut back the wires for all the grounds, spliced them together to see if that was my no fuel issue....and of course not. I'm so tired of this truck at this point lol. I've got to wait until I have another person with me to check with a stethoscope. So in the mean time what else can I be looking for? How do I check the resistor properly? Do I unhook the plug with the yellow and blue wire and test the plug side, or the resistor side over to the ECU.
Also needing to know if I'm checking the amount of fuel passing through the regulator, or before the regulator. I'll post up some pictures of the splices that I was working on. Mind you they aren't going to be the best pictures lol.
EDIT: Don't mind the jankey crap on the truck, it's all getting fixed once/if it runs LOL
Last edited by GreyYota87; 02-24-2020 at 12:20 PM.
Was able to get help from the neighbor to check the injectors with a stethoscope. I had him turn the key back and forth from off to "on" and none of the injectors made a clicking noise. We also tried it while the vehicle was cranking over and still nothing from the injectors. So now that I know the injectors aren't firing, and I've fixed the ground wires....where do I start looking now lol
Well a cut back the wires for all the grounds, spliced them together to see if that was my no fuel issue....and of course not. I'm so tired of this truck at this point lol. I've got to wait until I have another person with me to check with a stethoscope. So in the mean time what else can I be looking for? How do I check the resistor properly? Do I unhook the plug with the yellow and blue wire and test the plug side, or the resistor side over to the ECU.
Also needing to know if I'm checking the amount of fuel passing through the regulator, or before the regulator. I'll post up some pictures of the splices that I was working on. Mind you they aren't going to be the best pictures lol.
...
You are pulling the return line off of the regulator, this is the hose between the regulator and the hard line that runs back to the tank. It's not a pressurized line so no crush washers to replace. It should flow about 500cc/minute.
Start at the ECU checking voltage on the injector wires #10/#20, you should have battery positive voltage. This comes thru the resistor, the injectors, and the splices. The injectors are fired by the ECU providing ground on these (#10/#20) wires which you should be able to spot on that ECU diagram from earlier.
A next step would be to to use an LED test lamp wired to power and inserted into the back side of the ECU plug along side the injector wiring. You should get a faint glow from the led switching on and off when the engine is turning. (Note if you still have the janky distributor thing going on its not going to trigger the injectors, since the injectors relay on the same sensor (NE signal from distributor) for the rpm signal.
You are pulling the return line off of the regulator, this is the hose between the regulator and the hard line that runs back to the tank. It's not a pressurized line so no crush washers to replace. It should flow about 500cc/minute.
Start at the ECU checking voltage on the injector wires #10/#20, you should have battery positive voltage. This comes thru the resistor, the injectors, and the splices. The injectors are fired by the ECU providing ground on these (#10/#20) wires which you should be able to spot on that ECU diagram from earlier.
A next step would be to to use an LED test lamp wired to power and inserted into the back side of the ECU plug along side the injector wiring. You should get a faint glow from the led switching on and off when the engine is turning. (Note if you still have the janky distributor thing going on its not going to trigger the injectors, since the injectors relay on the same sensor (NE signal from distributor) for the rpm signal.
I'll get onto checking the voltage at pin #10 and #20. I checked the resistance on the injector resistor and both yellow and blue wires check out to 3.4 and I also have 12v to B+ on the harness for the injector resistor.
For the distributor issue I was able to replace it with a new distributor, rotor bug, and cap. Plug wires are all only a few months old so the entire distributor is all fairly new and I'm getting spark.
I'll get back with the voltage on pins #10 and #20
EDIT: Both pins #10 and #20 have 12v at the ECU with the key in the "on" position.
Last edited by GreyYota87; 02-24-2020 at 03:13 PM.
Sorry, I should have mentioned that
The voltage check (pin 10 and 20 on harness side connector) is best done with that crimp apart.
Why? Because with those wires spliced if 1 to 3 injector(s) is(are) open/bad, One good injector would still give a false "good" 12V at both pins.
Sorry, I should have mentioned that
The voltage check (pin 10 and 20 on harness side connector) is best done with that crimp apart.
Why? Because with those wires spliced if 1 to 3 injector(s) is(are) open/bad, One good injector would still give a false "good" 12V at both pins.
Not sure I'm following you on this one? When you mention with the crimp apart, are you talking about the crimp where the 2 yellow wires meet and the 2 blue wires meet. Or the crimp where the 4 wires join the 2?
When I checkd voltage I back probed the ECU connector with it plugged in. You might have to walk me through this one a bit more lol. If I'm understanding correctly, undo the crimps and check each blue and yellow wire individually?
EDIT: In the mean time while I wait for my simple mind to get help, I did the best thing I knew how to check voltage to the injectors. I haven't taken apart the crimps yet, but I did check for voltage at the crimps and each individual injector wire as close to the injector as i could (basically back probed them) and everything showed 12v with the key in the "on" position....I'm lost here lol.
I did learn something that could be a cause of my issues...While back probing the injectors, the needle I'm using touched up against the upper intake plenum and I heard the injector click once. I'm guessing this is caused by one of my grounding issues with the dome light circuit?
Last edited by GreyYota87; 02-24-2020 at 03:55 PM.
Not much on that dome circuit. If I was to hazard a guess there is a wire pinched to the body near the clock harness in the middle of the dash.
Yes checking voltage on the wires between the injectors and the splices was the right thing to do (like ray mentioned you can get power at the ECU if a single injector has continuity)
Not much on that dome circuit. If I was to hazard a guess there is a wire pinched to the body near the clock harness in the middle of the dash.
Yes checking voltage on the wires between the injectors and the splices was the right thing to do (like ray mentioned you can get power at the ECU if a single injector has continuity)
Yea I could imagine a wire is pinched back there lol. I have none of that hooked up so I'll get to that circuit later haha.
So since I'm getting 12v at all my splices, and getting 12v back probing the injects. My injector resistor seems to check out with 3.4 ohms, 12v on the power side. My COR turns on and the fuel pump turns on when pushing on the vane. It just comes down to my injectors aren't firing off....Is it safe to say this is probably a ECU related issue?
Ok so I'm really trying not to get my own hopes up.....but I think I found something! I've been working on this truck for countless hours from the complete motor rebuild, to the EFI swap so I really hope I'm right...
I've been going over the ECU plugs and looking at a pin out for the ECU plugs. My middle plug isn't in the best shape, and I think the PO may have gotten some wires crossed at some point. I'm posting a picture of both my plug, and a picture of of a haynes manual I have. The two that I think are hooked up wrong are the knock sensor and the distributor wire. Without the NE wire hooked up it isn't sending RMP signal to fire off the injectors correct?
Let me know if these are right, or if they are in fact hooked up wrong. If they are, what is the best way to get those little tabs out to move them where they should go?
EDIT: Is this the best manual for the cheaper price? I borrowed this one from a friend and it's making things easier. Or would an actual FSM be a better choice.
Last edited by GreyYota87; 02-24-2020 at 09:23 PM.
Keep yellow wire and blue wire as is.
Injector connector disconnected, Ignition on:
Pin 2's of both connectors on yellow should have 12V. Same with PIn2's of connectors on blue wire. If not resistor on that wire color is bad.
Connect injector connectors. IF all connectors are good, all pin 1s would have 12V.
However, if all wires leading to pin 1's were spliced together, even with 1 or 2 or three bad (open) injectors you would still get 12V on all lines highlighted in red, and at pins 10 and 20 on harness side connector that connects to ECU.
Keep yellow wire and blue wire as is.
Injector connector disconnected, Ignition on:
Pin 2's of both connectors on yellow should have 12V. Same with PIn2's of connectors on blue wire. If not resistor on that wire color is bad.
Connect injector connectors. IF all connectors are good, all pin 1s would have 12V.
However, if all wires leading to pin 1's were spliced together, even with 1 or 2 or three bad (open) injectors you would still get 12V on all lines highlighted in red, and at pins 10 and 20 on harness side connector that connects to ECU.
Ahh ok that makes a lot of sense now lol. I'll start properly checking them in the morning. Hoping that the resistor checks out...that's a pretty pricey part isn't it? Hoping that it's just the NE wire on the wrong pin like I mentioned in my last past....fingers crossed lol!
After looking at more diagrams and doing a continuity test from the plug side of the ECU and the black/red wire coming into the igniter, I realized that Black/red wire was in fact the NE wire and that it was in fact in the wrong location!!!!! I swapped it into the correct pin location and cranked it over.....and guess what!! SHE FIRED UP! It's 11:40 and I don't think the people around me want to hear this thing right now lol.
So tomorrow I'm going to start it up again and see if it will actually stay running for a longer period that I allowed it....still seemed like their could be air in the fuel line. So doing the test of the fuel flow through the regulator should clear the system, and also make sure I'm getting the correct flow rate to the injectors.
I also still need to hunt down the ground issue to the relay so I don't have to have it jumped straight to battery. Hoping that is an easier find then the NE wire lol
02-23-2020, 02:45 PM
