22RE Stuttering / Bogging under load
01-22-2021, 07:14 AM
#42
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Thread Starter
01-22-2021, 08:10 AM
#43
YT Community Team
I've pulled the throttle body and set the tps on the bench, but I've found setting it with a timing light much quicker, and I personally like the results better.
01-22-2021, 08:37 AM
#44
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Thread Starter
01-22-2021, 09:33 AM
#45
Registered User
Thread Starter
01-22-2021, 10:34 AM
#46
YT Community Team
Setting/adjusting TPS
Set base timing first
1. Get vehicle to operating temp. Then turn engine off.
2. With a jumper wire, connect the E1 and TE1 terminals at the diagnostic box next to the engine fuse box.
3. Connect the timing light to #1 cylinder and check that timing is at 5 BTDC. If not, loosen distributer and adjust. Ideally the distributer adjustment bolt should be somewhat centered in the slot (If the adjusting bolt is at the extreme end of the slot there may be problems elsewhere. )
4. Once base timing is set shut engine off. Leave the jumper wire in place, along with the timing light.
5. Now loosen the two screws holding the TPS. You'll want them just enough so you can rotate the TPS.
6. Restart the vehicle and double check timing. It should still be at 5 BTDC. (if not, rotate the TPS counter-clockwise )
Now you come to the actual TPS adjustment
7. With the engine running and the timing light on the crank timing mark SLOWLY start rotating the TPS clockwise while watching the pulley. As you turn the TPS you should suddenly see the timing mark advance several degrees. STOP turning. Now VERY SLOWLY turn the TPS back the other way. As soon as the timing goes back to 5 BTDC stop and tighten the TPS screws. Ideally, like the distributer, the setting should be somewhat centered in the adjusting slot.
What you’re trying to do is set the TPS right BEFORE the timing jumps.
8. Now pull your jumper wire from the Diagnostic box and remove the timing light.
Set base timing first
1. Get vehicle to operating temp. Then turn engine off.
2. With a jumper wire, connect the E1 and TE1 terminals at the diagnostic box next to the engine fuse box.
3. Connect the timing light to #1 cylinder and check that timing is at 5 BTDC. If not, loosen distributer and adjust. Ideally the distributer adjustment bolt should be somewhat centered in the slot (If the adjusting bolt is at the extreme end of the slot there may be problems elsewhere. )
4. Once base timing is set shut engine off. Leave the jumper wire in place, along with the timing light.
5. Now loosen the two screws holding the TPS. You'll want them just enough so you can rotate the TPS.
6. Restart the vehicle and double check timing. It should still be at 5 BTDC. (if not, rotate the TPS counter-clockwise )
Now you come to the actual TPS adjustment
7. With the engine running and the timing light on the crank timing mark SLOWLY start rotating the TPS clockwise while watching the pulley. As you turn the TPS you should suddenly see the timing mark advance several degrees. STOP turning. Now VERY SLOWLY turn the TPS back the other way. As soon as the timing goes back to 5 BTDC stop and tighten the TPS screws. Ideally, like the distributer, the setting should be somewhat centered in the adjusting slot.
What you’re trying to do is set the TPS right BEFORE the timing jumps.
8. Now pull your jumper wire from the Diagnostic box and remove the timing light.
The following 2 users liked this post by Jimkola:
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01-24-2021, 05:06 PM
#47
Registered User
Thread Starter
Setting/adjusting TPS
Set base timing first
1. Get vehicle to operating temp. Then turn engine off.
2. With a jumper wire, connect the E1 and TE1 terminals at the diagnostic box next to the engine fuse box.
3. Connect the timing light to #1 cylinder and check that timing is at 5 BTDC. If not, loosen distributer and adjust. Ideally the distributer adjustment bolt should be somewhat centered in the slot (If the adjusting bolt is at the extreme end of the slot there may be problems elsewhere. )
4. Once base timing is set shut engine off. Leave the jumper wire in place, along with the timing light.
5. Now loosen the two screws holding the TPS. You'll want them just enough so you can rotate the TPS.
6. Restart the vehicle and double check timing. It should still be at 5 BTDC. (if not, rotate the TPS counter-clockwise )
Now you come to the actual TPS adjustment
7. With the engine running and the timing light on the crank timing mark SLOWLY start rotating the TPS clockwise while watching the pulley. As you turn the TPS you should suddenly see the timing mark advance several degrees. STOP turning. Now VERY SLOWLY turn the TPS back the other way. As soon as the timing goes back to 5 BTDC stop and tighten the TPS screws. Ideally, like the distributer, the setting should be somewhat centered in the adjusting slot.
What you’re trying to do is set the TPS right BEFORE the timing jumps.
8. Now pull your jumper wire from the Diagnostic box and remove the timing light.
Set base timing first
1. Get vehicle to operating temp. Then turn engine off.
2. With a jumper wire, connect the E1 and TE1 terminals at the diagnostic box next to the engine fuse box.
3. Connect the timing light to #1 cylinder and check that timing is at 5 BTDC. If not, loosen distributer and adjust. Ideally the distributer adjustment bolt should be somewhat centered in the slot (If the adjusting bolt is at the extreme end of the slot there may be problems elsewhere. )
4. Once base timing is set shut engine off. Leave the jumper wire in place, along with the timing light.
5. Now loosen the two screws holding the TPS. You'll want them just enough so you can rotate the TPS.
6. Restart the vehicle and double check timing. It should still be at 5 BTDC. (if not, rotate the TPS counter-clockwise )
Now you come to the actual TPS adjustment
7. With the engine running and the timing light on the crank timing mark SLOWLY start rotating the TPS clockwise while watching the pulley. As you turn the TPS you should suddenly see the timing mark advance several degrees. STOP turning. Now VERY SLOWLY turn the TPS back the other way. As soon as the timing goes back to 5 BTDC stop and tighten the TPS screws. Ideally, like the distributer, the setting should be somewhat centered in the adjusting slot.
What you’re trying to do is set the TPS right BEFORE the timing jumps.
8. Now pull your jumper wire from the Diagnostic box and remove the timing light.
01-25-2021, 07:12 AM
#48
YT Community Team
I just found the bench method with a multimeter to be rather finnicky. And often when I think I had it and would go to lock down the adj. screws I'd see the TPS favoring too far to one side of the slot to make me feel comfortable. Whenever I do it with the timing light its quicker, and the TPS is more or less centered in it's adjustment.
Last edited by Jimkola; 01-25-2021 at 11:06 AM.
01-25-2021, 11:05 AM
#50
YT Community Team
One of our Toyota Master techs. Brilliant tech.
01-25-2021, 12:19 PM
#51
Registered User
Thread Starter
This is a classic sign of distributor timing being too far advanced. I see no reference of you checking and adjusting timing after you pulled the distributor.
Get the engine hot, like 20 minutes of solid freeway driving hot. Adjust the idle to 750-800 RPMs (idle MUST be below 900 RPMs or the weights in the distributor will centrifugally add advance)
Short the terminal T and E1 of the check connector. You should hear a change in idle RPM. If you don't, adjust the TPS or replace it.
Using a timing light on Cyl #1, adjust timing to 5 degrees BTDC.
Get the engine hot, like 20 minutes of solid freeway driving hot. Adjust the idle to 750-800 RPMs (idle MUST be below 900 RPMs or the weights in the distributor will centrifugally add advance)
Short the terminal T and E1 of the check connector. You should hear a change in idle RPM. If you don't, adjust the TPS or replace it.
Using a timing light on Cyl #1, adjust timing to 5 degrees BTDC.
01-25-2021, 02:20 PM
#52
Registered User
Bro your all over the place...
take a deep breath and follow the instructions Jimkola gave you.
one thing at a time...
You can turn your idle screw clockwise and slow the rpms down.
take a deep breath and follow the instructions Jimkola gave you.
one thing at a time...
You can turn your idle screw clockwise and slow the rpms down.
01-25-2021, 07:57 PM
#53
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Thread Starter
01-30-2021, 11:10 AM
#54
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Hesitation only with accessories on
Hey I'm a newbie so hope it's OK for me to add my question here. And thanks in advance if anyone wants to suggest that I pick a different thread or whatever is the best way to ask questions.
So I bought an 86 mini RV on 86 pickup chassis with 22RE. Quickly blew the head gasket and after I got 22re engine replaced I started getting engine hesitation when I run accessories, like heater and windshield wipers.
I can cruise fine at 55-60, until I turn on the heater , maybe also the windshield wipers. Turn them off and truck runs fine...do you have any idea if this is likely a grounding wire issue? Or any ideas? Thanks again!
So I bought an 86 mini RV on 86 pickup chassis with 22RE. Quickly blew the head gasket and after I got 22re engine replaced I started getting engine hesitation when I run accessories, like heater and windshield wipers.
I can cruise fine at 55-60, until I turn on the heater , maybe also the windshield wipers. Turn them off and truck runs fine...do you have any idea if this is likely a grounding wire issue? Or any ideas? Thanks again!
01-31-2021, 12:17 PM
#55
Registered User
You will get better, and probably more, responses if you start your own thread on this.
Make sure you put your truck's information in your signature area, so we can tell right away what we're talking about. Year, model, engine type, ie: 22RE, etc, DLX or SR5, all that. Look at others posts for examples of what to include. It helps us to help you.
As to your problem, I could well be wrong, but yeah, it could well be a ground problem. Start at the battery, check both terminals are clean. No corrosion on or IN the wires that come off them. Follow the wires to their other ends. Negative terminal should have 2 cables from it. One to the engine, down where the AC compressor attaches to the engine, the other goes to the body. The sheet metal of the body, to provide a good ground there. Make sure the ends are clean, uncorroded, metal to metal connections. Also, ensure the wire is tight in the ring terminal, no broken strands, etc.
Another ground you should have is from the head to the body. A wire should be connected between the hook for pulling the engine out and the sheet metal of the firewall behind the valve cover. Again, clean, dry, no corrosion, tight in the ring terminals, and so on.
Last is the alternator ground. Goes from the alternator up to the power steering pump.
There are also two grounds inside the cab to check. One I believe, is behind the ECM, on the passenger side. The other is behind the driver's side kick panel. It has 4 ground wires going to it, with 2 wires in one crimp of the ring terminal, and 2 in the other. Kind of an odd set up but it's what they used. Sort of like the injector ground that bolts down where the throttle body is held onto the engine. Pretty obvious. Anywho, the ground in the cab has a known problem with the wires getting loose in the crimp.
Good luck to you!
Pat☺
Make sure you put your truck's information in your signature area, so we can tell right away what we're talking about. Year, model, engine type, ie: 22RE, etc, DLX or SR5, all that. Look at others posts for examples of what to include. It helps us to help you.
As to your problem, I could well be wrong, but yeah, it could well be a ground problem. Start at the battery, check both terminals are clean. No corrosion on or IN the wires that come off them. Follow the wires to their other ends. Negative terminal should have 2 cables from it. One to the engine, down where the AC compressor attaches to the engine, the other goes to the body. The sheet metal of the body, to provide a good ground there. Make sure the ends are clean, uncorroded, metal to metal connections. Also, ensure the wire is tight in the ring terminal, no broken strands, etc.
Another ground you should have is from the head to the body. A wire should be connected between the hook for pulling the engine out and the sheet metal of the firewall behind the valve cover. Again, clean, dry, no corrosion, tight in the ring terminals, and so on.
Last is the alternator ground. Goes from the alternator up to the power steering pump.
There are also two grounds inside the cab to check. One I believe, is behind the ECM, on the passenger side. The other is behind the driver's side kick panel. It has 4 ground wires going to it, with 2 wires in one crimp of the ring terminal, and 2 in the other. Kind of an odd set up but it's what they used. Sort of like the injector ground that bolts down where the throttle body is held onto the engine. Pretty obvious. Anywho, the ground in the cab has a known problem with the wires getting loose in the crimp.
Good luck to you!
Pat☺
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