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If it's running good I'd leave it alone.
enjoy it!
Welp, unfortunately my happiness was premature. The problem is still there. It's intermittent and it came back today although not consistently. I drove 15 minutes in the morning, it was perfect, parked to get food, started it and it almost wanted to stall, kept bogging on the road, drove it home to check it out, drove again and perfect again. Drove later in the day, on the way there, perfect, on the way home, kept bogging under load. Ugh!
So I did make a few more observations though if that helps anyone -
1. I used my vacuum gauge / tester again today and I was getting an above normal reading at idle (about 24-25 in-Hg instead of the normal 22 that I was getting before this issue)
2. There does seem to be a weird sound coming from the exhaust when it is bogging down. Could this point to some sort of exhaust clog and/or leak?
What's the weather like?
I know that's a weird question, but...
I had an intermittent bogging, missing, popping, backfire issue. Somedays it ran great, others it ran like crap!
I noticed it was on drizzly, dreary days it ran crappy.
It didn't have to be raining, but when there was a lot of moisture in the air it ran horrible. It was moisture in the dizzy cap!
Not wet, just moisture. I used some dryer spray, ordered new Oring gaskets from LCE and hadn't had a problem with that since.
What's the weather like?
I know that's a weird question, but...
I had an intermittent bogging, missing, popping, backfire issue. Somedays it ran great, others it ran like crap!
I noticed it was on drizzly, dreary days it ran crappy.
It didn't have to be raining, but when there was a lot of moisture in the air it ran horrible. It was moisture in the dizzy cap!
Not wet, just moisture. I used some dryer spray, ordered new Oring gaskets from LCE and hadn't had a problem with that since.
It's been crazy nice here in California! Yesterday was 76 degrees and sunny all day... this issue is so weird.
I've also had intermittent trouble with the FPR fuel pressure regulator
slow starts is one symptoms when the check valve isn't working properly and let's gas return to the tank, rather than being pressured and ready to start.
not sure what else or why the FPR can be finicky, but I've had issues with them.
I've also had intermittent trouble with the FPR fuel pressure regulator
slow starts is one symptoms when the check valve isn't working properly and let's gas return to the tank, rather than being pressured and ready to start.
not sure what else or why the FPR can be finicky, but I've had issues with them.
Pressure Guage
I don't think you can clean it... I've never tried i just replaced it.
Was reading again and you said
"I thought I may have thrown the ignition timing out of whack when I took the distributor out, so I checked that today and it was a bit off but I set it to the correct specs without improving the issue."
ADVANCE your timing a few degrees.... go drive it and see if it improves your performance
Sometimes setting it by the book just doesn't work...
Pressure Guage
I don't think you can clean it... I've never tried i just replaced it.
Was reading again and you said
"I thought I may have thrown the ignition timing out of whack when I took the distributor out, so I checked that today and it was a bit off but I set it to the correct specs without improving the issue."
ADVANCE your timing a few degrees.... go drive it and see if it improves your performance
Sometimes setting it by the book just doesn't work...
Is OEM the consensus choice for replacement FPR?
Advance meaning like 6 or 7 degrees instead of 5, right?
oem is certainly the best choice, but it may not be available. my last 22re fpr purchased was via partsgeek, not an oem, but a quality brand @ 6-15-2015 around 132k miles (199K today).
I used my vacuum gauge / tester again today and I was getting an above normal reading at idle (about 24-25 in-Hg instead of the normal 22 that I was getting before this issue)
This is a classic sign of distributor timing being too far advanced. I see no reference of you checking and adjusting timing after you pulled the distributor.
Get the engine hot, like 20 minutes of solid freeway driving hot. Adjust the idle to 750-800 RPMs (idle MUST be below 900 RPMs or the weights in the distributor will centrifugally add advance)
Short the terminal T and E1 of the check connector. You should hear a change in idle RPM. If you don't, adjust the TPS or replace it.
Using a timing light on Cyl #1, adjust timing to 5 degrees BTDC.
This is a classic sign of distributor timing being too far advanced. I see no reference of you checking and adjusting timing after you pulled the distributor.
Get the engine hot, like 20 minutes of solid freeway driving hot. Adjust the idle to 750-800 RPMs (idle MUST be below 900 RPMs or the weights in the distributor will centrifugally add advance)
Short the terminal T and E1 of the check connector. You should hear a change in idle RPM. If you don't, adjust the TPS or replace it.
Using a timing light on Cyl #1, adjust timing to 5 degrees BTDC.
Thanks for the reply - really appreciate, just want to get my truck running right again!
1. When I set the timing, I only let the engine heat up for like 5 min without driving it, I'll try driving it more and then setting the timing and see if that changes anything.
2. How can I verify my idle speed if I don't have a tachometer on my truck?
3. So I currently have the throttle body on my bench as I'm trying to adjust the TPS. When I did all the tests (before opening it to check if the spring is working (it is)) it failed test #3 where it is supposed to read OL between the IDL and E2 connections with a .85mm feeler gauge in between the lever and stop screw. It was reading at like 1.4k ohms. I loosened the bolts on the TPS and am trying to adjust it now, but whenever I get test 3 to read OL, test 2 is also reading OL. If I adjust test 2 to the proper specs (under 2.3k ohms) then test 3 is no longer at OL. I thought I did it get it correct once, but when I double checked test 3 again, it was no longer at OL. Does this mean my TPS sensor is bad? Or am I just not setting it properly yet?
So turns out, although this isn't news, that I am an idiot and I had the feeler gauges placed in the wrong place. I had them between the throttle and the little air valve instead of the set screw. I'll re-do the testing with the proper method, but if I can't get it set, then I should get a new TPS, right?
If it's the original TPS it sure wouldn't hurt to put in new one to check that off the list of things to go wrong.
it's a little tricky setting the TPS even on the bench which is WAY EASIER than doing it on the vehicle....
Google search 22re TPS adjustment and you'll get lots of good info.
Then you can pick what works best for you.
Your NOT an idiot....I'm proud of you for taking this on, most won't. There is a lot to learn and it just takes time and your going to make mistakes, it's part of learning.
If it's the original TPS it sure wouldn't hurt to put in new one to check that off the list of things to go wrong.
it's a little tricky setting the TPS even on the bench which is WAY EASIER than doing it on the vehicle....
Google search 22re TPS adjustment and you'll get lots of good info.
Then you can pick what works best for you.
Your NOT an idiot....I'm proud of you for taking this on, most won't. There is a lot to learn and it just takes time and your going to make mistakes, it's part of learning.
I ended up doing it on the bench - way easier for sure! Thank you, I do appreciate all the help and encouragement. I enjoy working on cars, but they sure do frustrate you sometimes!
Ok so I did some more stuff today and here are my discoveries for the day:
1. I was able to set the TPS correctly now that I was putting the feeler gauges in the correct place.
2. I've noticed that the surging idle tends to only happen when I'm holding the brake. If I'm sitting at a dead stop and I hold the brake, the idle will surge up and down. If I release the brake, the idle will return to normal. Does this help point to anything in particular? Brake booster? Idle adjustment? Also, how would I set my idle correctly if my truck does not have a tachometer? Should I get a timing gun with a tach feature?
3. When putting the throttle body back on the truck, I noticed that A. there's a ton of carbon buildup in my intake (and some of it seems almost oily) and that there's a weird like "lip" of sorts in the TB gasket. This isn't normal, right? There seems to be carbon in between the gasket and the tb housing. I tried to capture this in the photo below.
4. I took the truck for a 10-15 minute drive after setting the TPS and cleaning out the TB to the best of my ability. I did not get any bogging, but I'm still getting the surging idle, so I don't know if I've solved anything yet. I did place an order for a new distributor cap and plug wires since I don't know how old mine are.
01-18-2021, 04:51 PM
