Hello

Recently my 89 22re started acting up, it started and idled fine it would rev freely with no load on the engine but when you put it in gear and started to drive it would start to hesitate around 2500 rpms. It would do it in all gears and was especially bad in 5th, it could get to 2500 easy then it would start to surge going from 2500 bumping up to 2700 and back and forth never making it above 2700.

I began by replacing cap and rotor with where terrible looking but did not fix it, next was air filter plugs and wires witch still had no effect. the next thing I tried was timing but it wouldn't idle down when I jumped the connector so I assumed my tps was out of adjustment, I pulled it off it moves freely but I never tested any of its functions just adjusted my idl-e2. It seemed to have worked because it would idle down and I was able to set my timing, I took it for a quick test drive after getting my timing set and it seemed to run smoother up until 2500 but was still surging. the last two things I did was swap my maf for one out of a friends truck witch had no effect, the last thing I tried before the truck died was the 02 sensor (my only CEL code) I swapped the 02 and when I went to fire it up again and it would bearly idle for the first few seconds and started to lope quite bad then quit and would not start back up again.

I tryed it the next day and it fired right up the died within a few seconds, I was starting to think fuel because the ignition system still seemed to work. I replaced the filter first witch actually looked pretty new and I seemed to have a lot of line pressure even after the filter, my test to determine if I had okay pressure was to crack the cold start injector line before starting it and then once it dies I cracked the line open again and I still have plenty of pressure. Next where the injectors, I have a spare motor that I know ran great when i pulled it so I tried to swap the injectors with no luck it would still run fine for a second or two the quit as if it where only getting a tiny bit of fuel like from the cold start injector. Next I tried to start it with the cold start injector unplugged and low and behold nothing it cranks but no fire, I pulled my plugs to confirm that there wasn't fuel in the combustion chamber and all 4 where dry so with out the cold start injector its not getting any fuel at all.

Since then Ive redone my main grounds, checked all fuses and swapped my efi relay for one that is known be working but im kinda at a loss. I might try to swap my tps but I feel like that would be more so related to the truck not running right and less the no start issu, any help will be appreciated

Thanks Ryan

 

Pulled and swapped in a working tps from my buddies truck today with no luck, im thinking of pulling the harness and striping it to see if there i any corroded wires unless someone can give me any other ideas first

Ryan

 

Test your Circuit opening relay ??

Jump B+ to Fp on your check connector see if that cures your stalling problem.

If the second coil is dropping out it will quit.

Dumb question but you do have gas in the tank

Corroded Injector plugs can cause them not to open.

 

The fuel tanks can get nasty in them. There is a sock/filter on the end of the fuel pump that can get a crust around the sock and not let fuel in. That is my suspicion.

The filter below is for a 22r truck but I have seen 22re's just as bad. It gets a coating around the filter. This one had just a small area to where the fuel could enter. I am wondering if your pump is getting just enough fuel into the sock to let it pressurize the system but not enough to keep it running.

 

I Have tested it with B+ and FP jumped as well as manually opening the air flow meter, I can hear the pump run but neither got the truck to stay running.

There is gas in the tank but not a lot I did kinda question that but I figured it would run a little longer if it was just low fuel, ill throw some more in and see if any thing changes.

I did swap the injectors and when I was in there I checked the plugs and cleaned them out with some electrical connector cleaner, if it does come to me pulling the harness ill pay special attention to the injector wires for damage or corrosion.

I hadn't even thought of that one terry, there is a very real possibility that mine looks like that. My tank looks brutal, theres a body lift so I can see the top of the tank and it looks like its going to be a fight to get it out. I live in the interior BC where there is lost of road salt and rusty vehicles, If I decide to remove that pump chances are ill break every bolt trying to get it out. I might try to make a external system with a spare pump and a gerry can to see I can get a different result before I go ripping that tank out of it

Thanks guys Ill post back later today once ive got a chance to try a few things
Ryan

 

It Runs!!

I started by adding gas and pulling the line that goes to the fuel filter, I put the line in a clear 2L bottle and then I jumped the test connectors. I had great flow no dropping off or slowing down at all, I let it fill the bottle and put it back together.

Being a BC truck there is a lot of rust and a lot of corroded wires so i was really questioning the wiring. I pulled the kick panel to get a look at the ecu, the first thing I noticed is that there is a large whole clear through to tire and the ecu looks like its been sitting at the bottom of a lake. the whole ecu box was so corroded I could see through the cover to the green circuit board, I pulled the covers and it didn't look all that bad just one little black tab that bolts to the side was all green and nasty and upon closer inspection one of the wires coming out of it had broken free.

Hooked up the ecu from my friends 88 4runner and it fired right up and stayed running! We took it for a pretty good drive once it warmed up and the bogging/hesitation is completely gone! Now time to find a new ecu for my truck and fix some cancer!

 

Great to hear you got it running or will have with a new ecu. The ecus are tough but I am surprised that it being exposed to the tire that you made it that long. They are not water proof at all. Thanks for letting us know that you got it fixed. It might help the next guy with a similar problem.

 

Water is about the only thing that kills ECU units.

Glad you know the problem.