22RE rattling noise when decelerating
#1
22RE rattling noise when decelerating
My 4Runner makes a rattling/ buzzing noise when I let off the gas. I have no idea what it is. Is this normal? or do i have to worry about something like my timing chain guides being broke?
I'm new with all this stuff so please stick with me if i seem really ignorant. I've attached a video of it happening below.
Thanks!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=evshWJ3p-lQ
I'm new with all this stuff so please stick with me if i seem really ignorant. I've attached a video of it happening below.
Thanks!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=evshWJ3p-lQ
#4
X2. Take flashlight and look down the timing chain and see if guides are still there. While your in there use a feeler gauge and check valves, intake .008 and exhaust .012. If they are out of spec then adjust them. Dont be intimidated, this if really easy to do. If you cant get all your answers on here then a FSM ALWAYS helps. Good luck
#7
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#8
valve cover: mine has a plate on top of the cover with a few vacuum switches. the plate is secured with 3 12mm headed bolts. remove bolts, and lay it over to the side, trying not to disrupt the vacuum hoses. tape or a temporary zip-tie may help hold it in place. remove 1 12mm bolt at the rear of the cover that holds on the funny round thing(egr modulator i believe) again move it aside without messing up vac. lines. remove pcv hose and brake-booster vac. hose from intake, noting proper locations. remove 4 12mm cap-nuts holding on the cover. NOTE THAT THEY ARE NOT VERY TIGHT!!! remove the rubber gromets that were under them. quick palm-bump to the cover and she'll slide up and off.
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cake and pie, cake and pie
#9
#10
About removing the valve cover though, I think I'm gonna try to do it when I have time off for Christmas in a couple of weeks. Should I just order a timing chain and guides and put em in even if mines fine, just as preventative maintenance? Also, If the engine block is already open, would it be much more difficult or even necessary to do a preventative head gasket replacement as well? Thanks for all the help so far guys. I'm learning so much from all of you!
#11
You can do a timing set without removing the head, but it can be a PITA. If you do definately drop the oil pan as much as you can. Also go ahead and do chain, guides, gears, and tensioner. I would also opt for at least the metal driver side guide (engnbldr sells those).
I can't tell by your video, but is it a metallic type of rattle (like a chain), or more of a tapping (like rockers out of adjustment)?
I can't tell by your video, but is it a metallic type of rattle (like a chain), or more of a tapping (like rockers out of adjustment)?
#12
Can't tell from the video but your description says timing chain. I did mine 5 years ago at 135k and it ran a lot better afterwards. Here is what I learned: If you don't pull the head you have to pull the 'secret' bolt, under the distributor gear AND under a pool of oil. It is because of that bolt that my head gasket leaks oil, and which I am about to replace (5 years later). Pull the oil pan all the way out in case any junk falls in it, and do not use a cork gasket, use the recommended silicone. And connect the oil pump to the t-chain cover off the vehicle because the o-ring is really squirrely. Think positive and good luck
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