22RE owners - how many miles for your oil changes?
12-30-2020, 02:20 AM
#21
I'd expect those who are consistent to a brand are likely more consistent in their oil changes and maintenance in general because they expressed that they actually care what kind of oil goes into their vehicle. Those who don't care what kind of oil goes in, likely don't care about a lot of other things.
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12-30-2020, 07:49 AM
#22
YT Community Team
I agree that any assumption about oil brand consistency and oil consumption would require specific testing, but I've always tried to stay faithful to a brand of oil and I've never had oil consumption issues. Not even in my lawnmower. But yes, I've always been good about proper servicing. And when i drain oil I'll typically pull the drainplug and give it 30-60 minutes to let the residual drain out as much as possible.
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swampedout (12-30-2020)
12-30-2020, 10:07 AM
#23
On this subject, do people drain oil hot or cold or does it matter?
12-30-2020, 10:19 AM
#24
I do it with the engine hot, it flows better I believe. I let it drain out for 1 hour aprox. I change the oil and filter every year, I drive my 4R during summer months only, and around 2500 miles per year. I keep it the garage the rest of the year and I run the engine once per month for a few minutes.
12-30-2020, 11:51 AM
#25
i usually change the oil when the engine has been completely warmed up and driven for 5 or so miles minimum. i do not wait an hour to let it flow out from the drain; 10 to 15 minutes is sufficient. put on a new yzzd1 and 4.5 quarts of new oil and i'm done. change it every 3.5 to 4.0 k miles, which ends up being around 3 times per year.
exception was my coast to coast to coast trip in 2016. 8500 miles in 31 days. no oil change. i did change the oil the night before the trip, and the day after getting back home.
exception was my coast to coast to coast trip in 2016. 8500 miles in 31 days. no oil change. i did change the oil the night before the trip, and the day after getting back home.
12-30-2020, 11:58 AM
#26
Registered User
Thread Starter
Drain hot!
With some 6 mil Nitrile gloves, it shouldn't burn your hands if quick on the plug removal. Although the engine could still be pretty hot when trying to reach in for the oil filter. I let the engine drain for a few minutes which is enough time to cool down and not burn my arm.
With some 6 mil Nitrile gloves, it shouldn't burn your hands if quick on the plug removal. Although the engine could still be pretty hot when trying to reach in for the oil filter. I let the engine drain for a few minutes which is enough time to cool down and not burn my arm.
12-30-2020, 12:54 PM
#27
Registered User
I never drain cold. Always warm-to-hot. Put your fingers in the right position and just let that drain plug fall into the catch tub -- fish it out later. Unfortunately this engine doesn't support draining with a siphon through the dipstick as you can with some of the other Toyota engines.
And for the filter, get an adapter that lets you use a 3/8in drive socket. The strap wrenches aren't nearly as nice.
YZZD3 + 4.5qt after letting it all drain down.
And for the filter, get an adapter that lets you use a 3/8in drive socket. The strap wrenches aren't nearly as nice.
YZZD3 + 4.5qt after letting it all drain down.
12-30-2020, 02:37 PM
#29
Registered User
Thread Starter
So, on the topic of miles for oil changes, it doesn't seem like anyone around here does the extended miles thing with synthetic? Was hoping someone who is doing long changes would chime in on how it's working out.
Regardless, I will try to do an oil analysis at 5K miles (or 6 months, whichever is first) and see what they say about the oil life going beyond that.
Regardless, I will try to do an oil analysis at 5K miles (or 6 months, whichever is first) and see what they say about the oil life going beyond that.
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muddpigg (12-30-2020)
12-30-2020, 02:56 PM
#30
So, on the topic of miles for oil changes, it doesn't seem like anyone around here does the extended miles thing with synthetic? Was hoping someone who is doing long changes would chime in on how it's working out.
Regardless, I will try to do an oil analysis at 5K miles (or 6 months, whichever is first) and see what they say about the oil life going beyond that.
Regardless, I will try to do an oil analysis at 5K miles (or 6 months, whichever is first) and see what they say about the oil life going beyond that.
12-31-2020, 06:37 AM
#31
I change oil and filter every six months...round about 5,000 miles. I use the cheapest 10W-30 conventional I can buy which is usually Walmart Supertech, Formula Shell at Home Depot, or Quaker State conventional. I use Fram orange can PH3614 with silicone anti drain back valve. It has Sure Grip coating, so I can easily turn it by hand without slipping. I have cut many open, and I have never seen a tear. I can buy them at a Walmart for about $4.
Not going to even consider changing oil once a year. Changing oil every six months gets my old bones up under the truck to check for leaks, inspect front end, and etc.. Just changed oil two weeks ago, and found a cold leak from one of the coolant hoses. Tightened the clamp just a bit, and that fixed it.
Not going to even consider changing oil once a year. Changing oil every six months gets my old bones up under the truck to check for leaks, inspect front end, and etc.. Just changed oil two weeks ago, and found a cold leak from one of the coolant hoses. Tightened the clamp just a bit, and that fixed it.
Last edited by snippits; 12-31-2020 at 06:43 AM.
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5 Fists (12-31-2020)
12-31-2020, 07:39 AM
#32
Not going to even consider changing oil once a year. Changing oil every six months gets my old bones up under the truck to check for leaks, inspect front end, and etc.. Just changed oil two weeks ago, and found a cold leak from one of the coolant hoses. Tightened the clamp just a bit, and that fixed it.
i took my truck in for an alignment and asked what else the mechanic saw on their checklist and it was like they were looking at someone else truck. If I were relying on them to tell me what needs fixing, id be way up the creek by now.
12-31-2020, 08:14 AM
#33
YT Community Team
Not going to even consider changing oil once a year. Changing oil every six months gets my old bones up under the truck to check for leaks, inspect front end, and etc.. Just changed oil two weeks ago, and found a cold leak from one of the coolant hoses. Tightened the clamp just a bit, and that fixed it.
I doubt a concern for the people on this forum, but could be a issue for the regular driver. I can't even get my own family and friends to check their tire pressure.
If you do swap to synthetic the first change may get dirty fairly soon. Synthetic typically has better detergents and may remove the oil film and deposits the conventional oil couldn't.
Last edited by Jimkola; 12-31-2020 at 08:24 AM.
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swampedout (12-31-2020)
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old87yota (12-31-2020)
12-31-2020, 02:36 PM
#35
Registered User
I always change my oil at 3,000 miles or six months, whichever comes first. I know my engine isn't in top shape, so changing my oil more frequently gives me some piece of mind.
I use the OEM Toyota filter (90915-YZZD1 [Denso] which I hear is being discontinued or 90915-YZZG2 [Purolator], the replacement for 90915-YZZD1). I also use the Toyota Branded 10W-30 oil because it is good quality and it is convenient to get both the oil and filter at the same time.
Like what was said above, I do not like extended oil change intervals because there could be many small problems that could be fixed before they turn into big problems, regardless if the problems are engine related or not.
I like Honda's advice on using synthetic vs. conventional: use the same intervals for synthetic as you would for conventional. Just think of synthetic oils as better protection for your engine.
Could I be wasting oil that isn't completely at the end of its life? Sure. But I would rather change the oil more often than getting close to the limits of the oil. It is just the way I like to do things.
Even with the problems I have with my engine, camshaft wear due to lack of ZDDP (Zinc) isn't one of them. From what I have gathered, you need ZDDP for proper valve-train break-in, but once the valve-train has broken-in, the lack of ZDDP in modern oils doesn't seem to harm our camshafts (at least OEM camshafts, aftermarket may be a different story).
12-31-2020, 02:44 PM
#36
Registered User
Thread Starter
I think I would be happy pushing oil changes out until the oil hits 20% of life left. If the oil analysis comes back at 5 or 6K miles saying I am still at 50% of life left, I would be fine taking it out to 7K+.
Considering I am using my truck less often, it's going to be more of a matter of how long the oil is in there time wise than mile wise. Which is one reason I might switch to synthetic media oil filters.
Considering I am using my truck less often, it's going to be more of a matter of how long the oil is in there time wise than mile wise. Which is one reason I might switch to synthetic media oil filters.
12-31-2020, 02:59 PM
#37
Local Toyota dealer won't sell the YZZD1 to me because it was superseded at least 3.5 years ago by the YZZG1 which is US Purolator made.
12-31-2020, 04:52 PM
#38
Registered User
Thread Starter
After doing a lot of research on Purolators, they still have a more-than-comfortable level of media failures where they rip from the end caps. Still have the street cred of being the "Tearolator" LOL
Can't you just go in there and say you want a yzzd1 without saying what vehicle it is for? You can also just order them online from a place like Conicelli Toyota. $25 for a box of 5, shipping and tax included. I purchased a 5 count box of yzzd1 filters from them through Amazon and they are all legit and not counterfeit.
12-31-2020, 05:36 PM
#40
