22re noise driving me nuts!!!!!
12-02-2019, 11:12 AM
#1
22re noise driving me nuts!!!!!
Cant figure out the noise coming from my 22re drives fine has great power other than the freaking noise. Any ideas? I've ajusted the valves still nothing. I'm posting 2 videos.
12-03-2019, 06:41 AM
#3
Exhaust leak. (Header)
Possible too tight valve cover. HAnd tight + 1/2 turn. With gloves and man bear pig arms: hand tight. 1/4 turn.
Possible too tight valve cover. HAnd tight + 1/2 turn. With gloves and man bear pig arms: hand tight. 1/4 turn.
12-03-2019, 06:45 AM
#4
Registered User
Lol “man bear pig”.
i hear a minor exhaust leak also but still uncertain which noise is the one he’s chasing...
Narrow it down:
engine cold or hot or all the time?
worse under load or at idle?
does it go away with more rpm or get worse?
i hear a minor exhaust leak also but still uncertain which noise is the one he’s chasing...
Narrow it down:
engine cold or hot or all the time?
worse under load or at idle?
does it go away with more rpm or get worse?
12-03-2019, 12:09 PM
#5
There's a sweet spot where the motor sounds perfect at about 2000rpm any more and the noise is worse any less and it's just as annoying to listen to.
Exaust leak huh how to I check where it's coming from? Which noise identifies the exhaust leak?
12-03-2019, 03:25 PM
#6
Registered User
Exhaust leak- it will sound like a “tick, tick, tick” under load, but go away as rpms increase.
when cold, you could wrap your hand around the joint between the manifold and first pipe and see if you can feel any hot air pulsing out.
You could also have a leaking gasket between the manifold and head, in which case it’s harder to find without removing the manifold. But when you inspect the gasket you’ll see carbon traces where the leak was. Lastly, you could also have loose or stripped manifold studs. In that case you have to helicoil the threads and replace the stud. Oh, and you could have a cracked manifold also.
Bottom line, close inspection, don’t take anything apart unless you need to because exhaust work can turn ugly quickly. If you need to take it apart, buy all the gaskets, go slow and carefully with studs use pb blaster or wd and work nuts back and forth patiently to avoid breaking studs. And undertightening is bad too because the gaskets will blow out and then you have to do it over.
when cold, you could wrap your hand around the joint between the manifold and first pipe and see if you can feel any hot air pulsing out.
You could also have a leaking gasket between the manifold and head, in which case it’s harder to find without removing the manifold. But when you inspect the gasket you’ll see carbon traces where the leak was. Lastly, you could also have loose or stripped manifold studs. In that case you have to helicoil the threads and replace the stud. Oh, and you could have a cracked manifold also.
Bottom line, close inspection, don’t take anything apart unless you need to because exhaust work can turn ugly quickly. If you need to take it apart, buy all the gaskets, go slow and carefully with studs use pb blaster or wd and work nuts back and forth patiently to avoid breaking studs. And undertightening is bad too because the gaskets will blow out and then you have to do it over.
12-03-2019, 04:16 PM
#7
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On my 3VZE, the gaskets at the connection to the crossover pipe gave up the ghost on both sides. It developed so slowly I had gotten used to the sounds so I didn't "hear" it. I didn't get the ticking described by Melrose 4r (though I've heard it before on other vehicles) or the carbon traces (my vehicle emits VERY little carbon through the exhaust.) And as those with the 3VZE can tell you, getting your hand in there is a trick.
What I DID do was use my extendable magnet tool and a washer to hold a piece of paper on the end of the extended tool. Putting that tiny "flag" next to the crossover joint clearly showed that exhaust was leaking. All I needed was the replacement gaskets (an Autozone item), but I also replaced two studs and a few nuts (dealer items). It now runs noticeably quieter.
What I DID do was use my extendable magnet tool and a washer to hold a piece of paper on the end of the extended tool. Putting that tiny "flag" next to the crossover joint clearly showed that exhaust was leaking. All I needed was the replacement gaskets (an Autozone item), but I also replaced two studs and a few nuts (dealer items). It now runs noticeably quieter.
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12-04-2019, 03:11 AM
#8
the crossover joint is where my 3vze leaks, too. but it’s in my parts runner, so i don’t care. looks like a real chore to replace those gaskets.
on the other hand, i just replaced the complete exhaust system on one of my 22re runners (except for the manifold). studs, gaskets, cat, down pipe, muffler, hangers. all for $420.
on the other hand, i just replaced the complete exhaust system on one of my 22re runners (except for the manifold). studs, gaskets, cat, down pipe, muffler, hangers. all for $420.
12-04-2019, 05:14 AM
#9
Registered User
Exhaust leak, slack timing chain and/or broken timing chain guide causing the chain to be slack. Sounds like timing chain clatter to me & if that's what it is, you should get that replaced as soon as you can. If one of the chain guides is broken (usually the driver's side) the chain can eat into the timing cover and make a hole in a coolant passage, allowing coolant into your oil system; not good. The sound goes away around 2000 RPM because strain on the chain at speed takes up the slack.
2 ways to check this. 1. Put a timing light on the timing mark when engine is at idle. If the mark jumps around and isn't steady, likely the chain is slack. 2. Take off the valve cover & look down into the timing chain gallery with a strong flashlight & check the condition of the chain & guides. Use a long screwdriver to pry a bit on the driver's side of the chain. If the chain is tight you shouldn't be able to move it more than a 1/4" or so. Any more than that the chain is stretched out (worn out) or the guide is broken. Depending on year (you didn't say what year your truck is) this can be a common problem, as the guides were plastic & tended to break after about 50K miles. Most replacement sets today have steel backed guides to prevent this.
To pinpoint exactly where the noise is coming from (timing chain or exhaust leak) you can use a 3 foot section of plastic tubing or garden hose. Put one end to your ear and the other end right near suspected areas of noise. The tube or hose will direct any noise to your ear as soon as you find the exact location of the noise. No, I'm NOT kidding, it works.
2 ways to check this. 1. Put a timing light on the timing mark when engine is at idle. If the mark jumps around and isn't steady, likely the chain is slack. 2. Take off the valve cover & look down into the timing chain gallery with a strong flashlight & check the condition of the chain & guides. Use a long screwdriver to pry a bit on the driver's side of the chain. If the chain is tight you shouldn't be able to move it more than a 1/4" or so. Any more than that the chain is stretched out (worn out) or the guide is broken. Depending on year (you didn't say what year your truck is) this can be a common problem, as the guides were plastic & tended to break after about 50K miles. Most replacement sets today have steel backed guides to prevent this.
To pinpoint exactly where the noise is coming from (timing chain or exhaust leak) you can use a 3 foot section of plastic tubing or garden hose. Put one end to your ear and the other end right near suspected areas of noise. The tube or hose will direct any noise to your ear as soon as you find the exact location of the noise. No, I'm NOT kidding, it works.
12-04-2019, 02:28 PM
#10
Exhaust leak, slack timing chain and/or broken timing chain guide causing the chain to be slack. Sounds like timing chain clatter to me & if that's what it is, you should get that replaced as soon as you can. If one of the chain guides is broken (usually the driver's side) the chain can eat into the timing cover and make a hole in a coolant passage, allowing coolant into your oil system; not good. The sound goes away around 2000 RPM because strain on the chain at speed takes up the slack.
2 ways to check this. 1. Put a timing light on the timing mark when engine is at idle. If the mark jumps around and isn't steady, likely the chain is slack. 2. Take off the valve cover & look down into the timing chain gallery with a strong flashlight & check the condition of the chain & guides. Use a long screwdriver to pry a bit on the driver's side of the chain. If the chain is tight you shouldn't be able to move it more than a 1/4" or so. Any more than that the chain is stretched out (worn out) or the guide is broken. Depending on year (you didn't say what year your truck is) this can be a common problem, as the guides were plastic & tended to break after about 50K miles. Most replacement sets today have steel backed guides to prevent this.
To pinpoint exactly where the noise is coming from (timing chain or exhaust leak) you can use a 3 foot section of plastic tubing or garden hose. Put one end to your ear and the other end right near suspected areas of noise. The tube or hose will direct any noise to your ear as soon as you find the exact location of the noise. No, I'm NOT kidding, it works.
2 ways to check this. 1. Put a timing light on the timing mark when engine is at idle. If the mark jumps around and isn't steady, likely the chain is slack. 2. Take off the valve cover & look down into the timing chain gallery with a strong flashlight & check the condition of the chain & guides. Use a long screwdriver to pry a bit on the driver's side of the chain. If the chain is tight you shouldn't be able to move it more than a 1/4" or so. Any more than that the chain is stretched out (worn out) or the guide is broken. Depending on year (you didn't say what year your truck is) this can be a common problem, as the guides were plastic & tended to break after about 50K miles. Most replacement sets today have steel backed guides to prevent this.
To pinpoint exactly where the noise is coming from (timing chain or exhaust leak) you can use a 3 foot section of plastic tubing or garden hose. Put one end to your ear and the other end right near suspected areas of noise. The tube or hose will direct any noise to your ear as soon as you find the exact location of the noise. No, I'm NOT kidding, it works.
Last edited by Monkeynts; 12-04-2019 at 02:30 PM.
12-04-2019, 08:27 PM
#11
Registered User
If you've got an aftermarket cam and head, take a close look at the cam lobes for wiping/undue wear.
Even if the valve lash is correct on the cams base circle, wear on the lobe, or multiple lobes can cause noise like this.
If there's not enough ZDDP in break in oil, initial cam wear can be catastrophic. Especially with Chinese slave labor parts.
After the new parts are run in and their surfaces burnished in the presence of oil with decent ZDDP content, continued use of supplements is not necessary.
Even if the valve lash is correct on the cams base circle, wear on the lobe, or multiple lobes can cause noise like this.
If there's not enough ZDDP in break in oil, initial cam wear can be catastrophic. Especially with Chinese slave labor parts.
After the new parts are run in and their surfaces burnished in the presence of oil with decent ZDDP content, continued use of supplements is not necessary.
12-04-2019, 08:56 PM
#12
If you've got an aftermarket cam and head, take a close look at the cam lobes for wiping/undue wear.
Even if the valve lash is correct on the cams base circle, wear on the lobe, or multiple lobes can cause noise like this.
If there's not enough ZDDP in break in oil, initial cam wear can be catastrophic. Especially with Chinese slave labor parts.
After the new parts are run in and their surfaces burnished in the presence of oil with decent ZDDP content, continued use of supplements is not necessary.
Even if the valve lash is correct on the cams base circle, wear on the lobe, or multiple lobes can cause noise like this.
If there's not enough ZDDP in break in oil, initial cam wear can be catastrophic. Especially with Chinese slave labor parts.
After the new parts are run in and their surfaces burnished in the presence of oil with decent ZDDP content, continued use of supplements is not necessary.
12-04-2019, 09:02 PM
#14
12-04-2019, 09:07 PM
#15
Registered User
Look at the lobe shoulders and points. any scraping lines or lost metal will tell.
Examine the old cam that you say was OK and compare the surfaces.
Did you reuse your old rocker arms??
Examine the old cam that you say was OK and compare the surfaces.
Did you reuse your old rocker arms??
12-04-2019, 09:08 PM
#16
Yes I reused the whole rocker assembly including the arms. Maybe I shouldn't have huh?
12-04-2019, 09:36 PM
#17
Registered User
Here's some info on problems with reusing rockers on a new cam:
http://www.lcengineering.com/LCTechP...ges/eng32.html
Also worth mentioning if you upgraded to the double roller chain there's a sheet metal baffle just under the oil filler cap that needs modification...I forgot to modify mine, pulled off the cap one day and noticed the chain had worn through the baffle, might have been a little louder when it was dragging on there.
http://www.lcengineering.com/LCTechP...ges/eng23.html
http://www.lcengineering.com/LCTechP...ges/eng32.html
Also worth mentioning if you upgraded to the double roller chain there's a sheet metal baffle just under the oil filler cap that needs modification...I forgot to modify mine, pulled off the cap one day and noticed the chain had worn through the baffle, might have been a little louder when it was dragging on there.
http://www.lcengineering.com/LCTechP...ges/eng23.html
12-04-2019, 10:24 PM
#18
Here's some info on problems with reusing rockers on a new cam:
http://www.lcengineering.com/LCTechP...ges/eng32.html
Also worth mentioning if you upgraded to the double roller chain there's a sheet metal baffle just under the oil filler cap that needs modification...I forgot to modify mine, pulled off the cap one day and noticed the chain had worn through the baffle, might have been a little louder when it was dragging on there.
http://www.lcengineering.com/LCTechP...ges/eng23.html
http://www.lcengineering.com/LCTechP...ges/eng32.html
Also worth mentioning if you upgraded to the double roller chain there's a sheet metal baffle just under the oil filler cap that needs modification...I forgot to modify mine, pulled off the cap one day and noticed the chain had worn through the baffle, might have been a little louder when it was dragging on there.
http://www.lcengineering.com/LCTechP...ges/eng23.html
12-09-2019, 09:42 PM
#20
