BamaYota1

Thanks. My truck has been a labor of love. It has tempted me to run it into the lake, but with the help of the guys on this forum, I have learned quite a bit, and worked out most of the kinks.

Huntingtruckcletus

I don't think this is it. I just cleaned my throttle body about 300 miles ago. Think it could be the ecu temp sensor? I broke the wire to one side today. So I found another clip that went to it and wired it up. The colors were different on the wires. I could of hooked it up backwards but if so I wouldn't think it would run at all? I know if unplugged I can't even get it to try to crank. I know what you mean about driving it into a lake! But I love my truck when it runs!

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

My guess would be you need more water/coolant still. Sometimes it's just difficult to burp. But again just a guess.

For the sensor wire I don't think it matters the orientation, it is just a thermistor right You can find the plug pin out and wire color in the 1990-1995 4runner book.

BamaYota1

Thermister? Is that a technical term? But yeah, I agree, wire orientation shouldn't matter.

When you cleaned the throttle body, do you take the iacv off the bottom, disassemble it and clean it?

It could need burped, but have you done anything to get air into system?

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

yeah tech term sorry. Thermal resistor

The next bit confused/es me.
"Before..sometimes" & "Now at random" So at some point in the middle it was ok for awhile I guess,or was it always intermitten and never a definitivly solved issue?

Checked the wiring diagrams for the coolant temp sensor.
G-L(Green-blue) goes to the computer and BR-B(Brown-black) is the shared ground E2. The lefthand side is ground with the retaining clip at the top.

But really thats just for reference or piece of mind it doesn't matter to the computer or sensor, in it's stock configuration. I guess someone could add one that cared at some point..

Terry is the guy with the pictures of the nasty/dirty temp sensor that was sending funny readings untill he pulled it out and cleaned it off. That might of been his "water temp sensor" aka dash guage, not the "engine coolant temp' sensor". They are essentialy the same device just the guage one uses the block for ground and the computer one shares E2 with the other sensors (likely for noise isolation). So they can have the same issue with sludge/scale builtup.

I understand these aren't always easy to access, and don't know where it is without looking. However if it's under the throttle body and you're going to have it off servicing the by passs stuff best to clean it while you're there just because you have a chance.

BamaYota1

I had never heard the term thermistor, so you taught me something today.

Huntingtruckcletus

As far as the before it was sometime idling around 1700 rpm and now it kicks up to 1700 Rpms and surges. It used to only kick up to 1700 Rpms when I'm driving an stop. If I stopped and it was idling 1700 Rpms then that's what it would stay at. Now I can be idling at 950 an it will kick up to 1700 an surge. However water in the coolant system could still defiantly be the problem. When replacing the fuel line that went to the bottom of the intake I undone both water line that went to the bottom of the intake. It's could be the engine cooling temp going out too. They aren't hard to get to. I can take it off without taking anything else off.
When I took the throttle body apart I cleaned everything that I could get apart on it. So I imagine that I cleaned it.
I'm going to do some more burping an see what i can come up with.

Huntingtruckcletus

Yesterday I went out and was going to take it apart but when I removed the top radiator hose I realized that it had a ton of air in the system. The top hose was bone dry. After I let it heat up good then burped it. An it fixes my surging idle. I idled it down to 750 Rpms and I don't like how it sounds.. It sounds like it is missing or just not idled high enough..

BamaYota1

Awesome news! It's great when you can fix stuff without really doing anything.

Huntingtruckcletus

Yeah so I went hunting today and got some bad results..
I got a cel and I was gonna get it checked on the way home.. But the rear deferential when to grinding and locked up on me.. So now I got to find a new rear end or have it rebuilt.. I'm thinking rebuilding and putting in lockers.. But if I can find a new one cheap enough I will put lockers in it.. What y'all think

Huntingtruckcletus

Oh another question. How hard would it be for me rebuild it myself? It shouldn't need to be machined or pressed should it? I've never done a rear diff. On a truck but I did on a 4 wheeler and It seemed easy enough!

Huntingtruckcletus

Went and got a new to me rear 3rd member today.. It's used but in beautiful condition. Put it on an everything seems to be in working order. I gotta get it some gas an put the tires back on. Oh and bama I am getting 20 mpg city mileage. Went 100 miles an 5 gallons while hunting just going through trails before the rear end gave out.

BamaYota1

5 mpg gain is pretty good.

If there is one thing in the world that I am scared to death to work on, it is gears. I cringe at the thought of making a $400 mistake by not knowing what I am doing trying to set up a differential. I think you did the smart thing by replacing with a used set already set up, plus I'm sure you saved some coin.

Huntingtruckcletus

Yeah I pulled it out an it seemed pretty complex for a 93. My 2002 trailblazer seemed to have a much simpler set of gears. I worry that a used set won't hold up even though they look brand new with no scaring or anything on them at all. I guess only time will tell. I probably should of got some with lockers.. But I can't afford that right now