all_terrain17

Called it a day, but I will take another crack at it tomorrow morning. Plan on checking compression, ignition, blah, blah. Here's some pics of the "finished" product.




Maybe by some off chance you can see something I missed. Funny thing is truck starts fine for a second, then just dies. Not throwing any codes.

Leaks around the oil pump seemed to stop after I tightened the bolts a little, but I'm sure it'll be like Niagra Falls tomorrow after I said that. Water leaks a little still from the lower intake beneath the thermostat housing, but not from the water tubes...

Hope I can figure it out. Sorry, but after a month of working on it I definitely will not be tearing into it again. A mechanic I am not.

The man I would take it to specializes in 4x4's and such, and he quoted me @ 600 to do the timing chain, so I'm not going to hesitate to bring it to him if it comes to that.

Sonofmayhem

O No, that sucks, I was joking about your wife. but im just glad i can get it fixed without hassle. a/t, i didnt have any problems when i did my chain. GOOD LUCK

4Hummer

This is why its SO much easier to pull the Motor and put it on a stand.


Hey can you get me a close up pic of your vacuum lines ? Im trying to figure out where mine all go. Mainly the 2 vacuum lines off the evap canister

all_terrain17

Toyed with it some more this moring, and it's clear another teardown is needed. I counted 3 seperate leaks, and none of them were small. So I've thrown in the towel; I can't risk another teardown with school just a few weeks off. The guy that's taking it even offered to let me come by and learn some things about wrenching, but I've already put in for more hours at work to cover the cost...

Ah well, I know this isn't how anyone wanted to see this thread end, but a professional will definitely do a much better job than I will. I want it to be put together reliable for college.





Thanks to all of you who helped me out so much though! Am i still qualified to do a writeup?

LiketoWrench

I am in the middle of the same job that you have been working on and came across this site , Awesome Resource!!! I have the same truck, same year. Your photos are great and will be very helpful to me. I've been shooting some video but its been a pain with the sun spiking the camera. I am doing my teardown in the driveway. I hope your problems turn out to be simple. Is there a comprehensive gasket sealer that can be used on all of the gaskets or do I have to buy black, grey and blue, in this day and age you would think so. Thanks

ovrrdrive

No shame in that man...

And btw, holy shtit your truck is clean.

Bumpin' Yota

No def no shame in handing it over to a mechanic as long as they are good! Honestly your issue sounds like a bad TPS or VAFM....

3 things are needed to make a properly timed engine kick off and run, compression, fuel, and spark.

Did you check your fuel pressure? Ill betcha dollars to donuts you have no fuel pressure or the TPS/VAFM is unplugged. As far as the leaks I have a 3vz-e so I couldnt tell ya where to look.

all_terrain17

BTW, Bumpin, I hope you get everything worked out with the 3.0. I've always been a big fan of these engine rebuild threads, especially Morphines...

Good luck!

EDIT: Dad told me a little while ago after I got home from work that the mechanic called about a half hour after the truck left. They got the truck running (apparently I did something right ), but had to address the leaks beneath the intake. The guy who took the intake off before used some pretty weird looking hardware, but I had no trouble with the intake before and reused them. However, the mechanic said the bolts used weren't right, and I had a massive vacuum leak toward the rear of the intake. Charge to fix the intake: 150.

On another note, he still has to fix the oil pump leaks...and suspected the oil pump was bad. (Don't worry EB, I'm sure it was my priming job or excessive cranking. lol)

Truck may be fixed as early as Monday, but I seriously doubt it.

all_terrain17

I used black for oil seals, blue for water, and red for the corners of the HG. But only because I like to finger paint with the left over permatex.

trythis

I am glad at least one mechanical engineer out there has gotten their hands dirty. This will pay off over and over again when you design things. You will at least think of the people working on things. The bean counters will never listen to you though, but at least you will know.

Bumpin' Yota

thanks for the good wishes! I just sent off my cams to be reground by weasy2k at s2stuning.com. Once those get back they and the heads go to engine builder all the while Citibank is in love with me for making my credit card smoke! I need to go play the lotto!

Once this whole ordeal is done Im hoping my truck will outrun stock 5vzfe 4runners... If not then ill bust out some more stuff. hehe

ovrrdrive

When I did mine the first time I used black everywhere.

When I tore it back down (no compression, bent valves), I noticed the black stuck really well on parts that came into contact with oil. Second time I used gray everywhere but the oil pan I ran out of gray so I used black again. I pulled the head this time so I used gray on all of the intake manifold parts too and on a few water jacket parts.

When I went back in the third time (water leaking into oil) I found That the gray didn't seal well where there was oil around. And it didn't seal well if there was water around when it was assembled. The oil pan was half gray and half black and it was sealed like it was glued this time, but when I finally got it to break loose, it was the gray that gave.

So the last time I did it I gave Permatex stock a nice boost. I used black on the oil pan and timing cover. Gray on all of the dry parts like intake and TB, and blue on all of the water jacket and parts that ran water. I finally hit the right combo that time I guess because I have no leaks at all.

Sounds like you did everything right, you just must have crinkled the gaskets when you put it back together.

I still say that one more time you would have gotten it. But I can understand completely why you sent it to the shop. I was determined the last time I did mine that if it didn't run I was breaking out the credit card.

ironroad9c1

Only place you need gasket sealer is on the top and bottom of the timing cover IF your replacing it with the head and oil pan on ,and the oil pan gets the toyota grey sealer thay used from the factory , do not goop that crap on every gasket you have ,thats why you have a gasket ,hell your 10 times more likley to get a leak from using that crap that just useing the gasket ,thats why its tehre . just say no to RTV.

And ditch those crappy ass plug wires and get some toyota wires,you won't have to worry about em for a ling time ,also why in the hell would anyone buy a frigging POS rebuilt engine from autozone ? i wouldn't get a frigging lawn mower engine from that place.

ovrrdrive

I agree that if you're careless you can do more damage than good with sealers and gasket makers, but if you sensibly apply them there is no way a gasket alone can do as good of a job.

A thin layer to fill the small gaps and to make it stick is all you need. I run a thin bead then smear it down with my finger so there is no squeezing out. My engine is locked up tight and the only thing leaking is the rear main seal, which is the only gasket I didn't change out.

Think what you want and do whatever works for you, but especially on a rebuilt engine imo you're crazy to not seal the gaskets. Most rebuilds use aftermarket parts and they just don't have the fit and finish that oem ones do. If you don't use the proper sealer and use it in the proper way, you're just begging to do that month long timing job all over again.

LiketoWrench

Thanks for all of the input on gasket sealers. All Terain 17 sounds like you'll be on the road soon!!

crackerjack

Man what a bummer! The lesson for me is major jobs shouldn't be primary vehicle). Noted building impatience as time went along because of school. I can understand that. I got little leaks and I want to redo air intake path and relocate battery and raise wiring for better water crossing in mind. I think I'm gonna completely remove engine so I can paint and really take my time. I had a "machanic" put my timing kit on it was 400$ labor. If you're gonna pay him for job tell him you expect no leaks up front

all_terrain17

I didn't use any RTV on manifold gaskets, I was told not to do that. Will ask the mechanic what he recommends there. As for other gaskets, I'm with ovrrdrive and believe a little bit can go a long way.

motoracer47

you shouldn't need rtv for manifolds, just things like timing covers, oil pans, valve covers(i know they have there own rubber gasket, i like to put just a bit on both sides, works great for me) on a totally unrelated note, does anyone know if the 22re was used in fork lifts? i was at a job the other day, and they had a couple of lifts torn apart, and i swear the cylinder head was a 22re, or it looked just like it. funny thing was, it was from a Yale fork lift, not toyota, although they did have some toyota lifts they were working on. i checked out the toyota lifts, i could tell it was toyota without knowing, it just "looked" like toyota engineering. I'm going back to the warehouse Monday, ill get a pic of the head and lift it came from.

vmax84

Dude, good job on going as far as you did. Go get a beer.

vmax84

ironroad9c1

you shouldn't need any one the gaskets ,if you have a tiny bit in the corners on a 90degree meet ,such as corners of the timing cover for example use a dab there,gaskets (even aftermarket ones) have come a long way from the almost 20 years the engine in my 87 was built , i have never had a reg gasket with no goop on it fail...NEVER. but i'
ve only been in this business for 15 years so what do i know,and i even worked for toyota for 4 of em.