Sonofmayhem

I called a place today to see about getting my engine fixed(bent rod) And for a new longblock along w/ all internals, seals including front and rear main. timing kit, etc. basically everything except the a/c and labor and what not for get this...2285! I got real happy and made up my mind on getting my sas done after i fix the engine. woohoo im pumped!lol They will also put in a new distributor, wires and plugs for free and im gonna have em' fill it w/ synthetics so it will run great forever... Did i mention the free tow? its a great place call and see if they have them in your area. Sorry for the highjack.

American Engine Install
1-800-269-9270

ovrrdrive

Are you actually happy with $2285?!?

I'd rather let them have sex with my wife then pay that ever again...

4Hummer

$2285? FOR A 22RE


WHAT ?? Man Im into my engine for under $600 and I think thats high. There is no way Id pay that amount of money for a 22RE I dont care what they have done to it its still a 4 banger. They could plate the thing in gold and its still not worth it.

Bumpin' Yota

I want a gold plated 22RE! Maybe get some 20" 100 spoke gold rims to match!

rdharper

What a coincidence..... she said the same thing!


(just kidding, couldn't resist)

crackerjack

Just checked in 2c ur progress... small voice in my head 2u says put a good bead of sealant and tighten cover bolts cross pattern snug, half tight,then full torque. Puttin the no leak charm on ya haha

vmax84

Best reply of the day right there, folks!!!!

vmax84

all_terrain17

LOL

Motor's back together. Tomorrow I'll be putting the brackets, and accessories on, as well as the belts. I struggled with it a bit today, trying to position the A/C compressor with the belt while bolting it in place. But I'm weak and not very persevering. Anyone got any tips on putting on the belts? I'm thinking about just putting the belts on afterward with a screwdriver. I've heard of peeps doing that.

toyaholic

if you loosen your pulley tensioners and put them on right you shouldn't have to pry anything. they go right on. the only trick is getting the alternator belt real snug. i used a pry bar against my block and the alternator to tighten it. the tensioners pull the belts up real tight on the other two.

Sonofmayhem

Are you serious? considering the 2500+ rebuilt one from autozone yes i am, ÅÅÅÅ bring your wife over. i dont care, i think thats good they will do everything and i dont have the tools time or place to do the work myself. and i dont feel like doing measurements... 600bux? well im sorry thats expensive, i am gonna pay this much because id like my truck to go another 200k miles, considering the gas mileage and how much i like this truck i wont have to buy one or worry about the engine for a while, that right there saves money, plus i dont really want to end up doing bottom end work after doing the top end. Ill get this done in less than a week instead of a few months or weeks. good job allterrain i hope it works, im gonna start school next semester after my truck is done.

all_terrain17

I'm on the floor over here.

ovrrdrive

Sorry but you don't get the wifey. She's happy and very well taken care of at home. Besides, the deal was for if I ever paid that much again for a junker rebuilt engine and I damned sure won't.

I have been in your shoes though so I can very well understand what you're going through. $2285+labor is on the very high end of what I've paid myself and what I've heard of others paying. And I promise you, the quality of the rebuild you will get will be nothing at all like an oem engine. Realistically I would expect 50k out of one. Seriously.

For me, the next $2600 I spend when this engine goes out again will either be for an SBC swap with a brand new long block crate engine ($1585 minus intake, carb, dist and headers direct from Chevy) or it will be a down payment for a newer truck.

I don't care who builds it for you, they will use cheap replacement parts and cut corners. Their only goal is to get you out of the warranty period without a major catastrophic failure. My last engine was a rebuild that cost about what you're paying and it has been a nightmare. I spent the extra coin to give myself the same reassurance you are also looking for and I just got finished doing a timing chain replacement that included a new head to replace the one that got smashed vales and my engine only has about 12k on it but of course it is out of warranty because I drive it so little. Add another $700 and a month of downtime to the $2600+ I gave the shop.

Not to even mention the oil stains on my new driveway from where they didn't seal the engine right and it has been leaking since we moved in here. She should be good and tight now though. I paid extra attention to it when I put it back together myself.

Your mileage may vary of course and for your sake I really hope it does good for you. I love my truck too and that's the reason I haven't had a big problem spending the $5k+ in the last 5 years to put replacement engines in her, but this last job was the straw that broke the proverbial camel's back. I'm officially done with the 22RE when this one craps out again.

Btw, you guys kill me with the wife comments... It was really just a passing analogy when I said it. Trust me, she's not up for barter here.

4Hummer

If I was going to pay that amount of money for a 22RE it would be this Hot Rod Motor

(although a slightly higher that $2500

Droools
LC Engineering 22RE
http://www.lcengineering.com/

all_terrain17

Alright, it's all back together. Cranked it first time and nothing. Flipped distributor 180 and dad nearly jumped out of his shorts after two backfires out the intake. Ah well. I'm taking a break now, and when I get back to it, I'm gonna pull the valve cover off and make sure everything's lined up right.

It's definitely good news to me though. No valves were destroyed and I know I have fuel and spark.

On another note, finding new plug wires was just... Turns out the PO decided to put on a distributor cap from a 93' or earlier 22RE. So he ghetto fabbed the coil wire to make it work. New cap and rotor later and all's well.

ovrrdrive

Getting close....!

By the way, it the timing is out 180 you don't flip the dist, you pull it out, rotate the crank 360, and put it back in. With the timing mark at 0 degrees, both valves on #1 should be loose (rocker arms will slide off the valves), that's compression stroke on the #1 cylinder at tdc. That's when you put the distributor in pointing to #1 and try to start it.

Now go try again!

all_terrain17

ya thats what I did. I restabbed. Time will tell if i got it back together right.

all_terrain17

oh noes. Pulled the valve cover and got everything lined up. Truck starts like everything's gonna be ok, and then it falls flat on it's face and dies. Will barely idle at full throttle. Like a huge vacuum leak or I put the plug wires on wrong. Oh, and I was leaking oil around the oil pump, as well as water beneath the lower intake. I have yet to trace the leaks. And after a month of banging my head against the wall I'm almost ready to hand it over to a professional.

Any ideas on what I could have missed? I've had dad rotating the distributor after each start, but it's clearly not helping. I need a timing light...

4Hummer

Air flow sensor hooked up? TPS adjusted? Firing order right? You sure you were at TOP dead Center and not bottom?

ovrrdrive

Oil leaking around the pump huh?

If its from the gasket, you probably either put the long bolts in the short bolt holes or pinched the gasket or cruched a pin or something similar. I bet you just pinched the gasket. I put vaseline in the groove to hold the rubber gasket in while I put it on... Worked like a charm.

If its from the front you may not have gotten the front seal in all the way. You did change it right?


The water under the intake is most likely from the one tube that's so hard to get to.

Remember this one?



I cut down a gasket I wasn't going to use into an Oring, then put lots of blue permatex on both sides of it and tightened it down pretty snugly. Mine didn't leak at all after I did that...

As for not running, the time is either still off or you have a sensor unplugged or a major vacuum leak or similar.

Did you use the right gasket for the throttle body?

There are 2 in the kits and one lets it leak like crazy. I used the wrong one at first and had a really bad idle until I narrowed it down to a leak there and took it apart and realized the problem. Did you take the TB off the intake plenum?

I wish you lived closer to Fl... I'd come over and try to help.

ovrrdrive

By the way, I had to tear mine apart 3 times before I got it right. I was on my last time doing it and I was going to either pay a mechanic or junk the truck but I went ahead and finished it and took my time and hit gold on the third try.

I will say, the last time I went in it went very quickly and smoothly. I was able to remember what certain bolts looked like and other little tricks off the top of my head. Its very frustrating but if you think about it as much time as you have spent under the hood you are the most knowledgable person around you on the subject right now.

I say give yourself one more teardown and try to get it right. Then do what you have to do. With as much time as you have in it now it would be a real downer to still have to pay $1000 to someone to do it for you.

Take a day or so off from it though to clear your head ad jump back in. You'll be amazed at how easy it will be this time.