abecedarian

I imagine you'll have to pull the timing chain to get the head off.....

davo247d

lol welcome to yt i just got done replacing my hg, it was a killer job the 3rd time but i got myself a felpro head gasket for like 26 buck at auto zone and intake gaskets for like 7 but looks like you got it covered just dont get to ahead of yourself haha like me good luck

annoyingrob

The most important part about removing the head: Don't forget the secret bolt!!!!!!!


Hidden in the pool of oil directly below the sprocket for the distributor, there hides a 12mm bolt.



To get the crank pulley bolt off, if it's a manual, stick it in 4th, get someone to step on the brakes, put a 19mm socket with a big breaker bar, and pull. IF it's an auto, remove a spark plug, run the piston down to the bottom of travel, insert something soft like a nylon rope or vacuum hose into the spark plug hole, as much as you can, then crank the motor counter-clockwise. It'll bind on the stuff in the cylinder, allowing you to get the bolt off. Again, use a big breaker bar. If you don't have one, go buy one. I use a 3ft, with an additional 4ft pipe on the handle if I have troubles.

92 TOY

no...you don't have to take the timing cover off. your cover looks fine to me..pics show your guides (specifically the driver's side guide) are intact. If you were going to just take the head off, no you don't have to take the timing cover off...just remember, it's like dominoes in there ...this connects to this,connects to this etc...

Me, I needed my head off because of questionable gasket failure and definitely needed the timing cover off because of obvious failure....but then there's the oil pan.........

But seriously, if I were you, you know what a PITA it's been to get as far as you are...if the timing components are of questionable age, I would just change them out....and basically have a freshened up top and front end.....oh yeah, change the belts / hoses and radiator while you are there too.....all that as preventitive.

Boy, it's so much easier for me to spend someone elses money.

suprasb

Yes, but I was thinking I could just zip-tie the chain to the sprocket, and slide the sprocket off and out of the way enough to get the head off?

Thanks! I'm taking it nice and slow so I don't forget stuff.

If I do have to take that off, I will use that method for sure. The starter trick makes me a little nervous!

Thanks for the advice. I will take your word and replace the cooling components, but this time around I will probably leave the timing stuff alone, for I plan to remove the engine in the summer.

And yes, ahhaha, its ALWAYS easier to spend other's money.

Fofo

Just my 2 cents, replace your chain, guides and ect while u have it apart. Then your good for another 100k.

92 TOY

I may have missed something, but why are you planning on pulling the engine in the summer??

suprasb

Well, The whole reason I got the 4 runner is to be my winter vehicle, (and wheeling rig) so I can store my mint little honda in the garage for the winter and keep it nice. Then, in the summer, I can take the honda out, and stick the 4 runner in the garage and work on it. So, I figured since the motor has 250k on it, It's probably due for a rebuild or replace, so I was thinking I would do that this summer.

What do you think? Does 250k mean time for rebuild, or do you think it will go much longer?

92 TOY

The big guns will have to chime in about the 250k mark.....the mileage is meaningless to me as long as you are doing preventitve maintenance and identifying any problems....I will say a total rebuild....(at this point I hink the only thing you are short on is bottom end work)...would be on an as needed basis only....at least in my case it would be.

Back to replacing the engine........with what??? and why on earth???

Don't get me wrong.....once you invest time and effort into it, I would hate to just toss it(the engine) aside....that's me though.......do it up, do it up good...let it breathe in and out (ie: air intake / header / cat / exhaust) ......from my research you can eek out an extra 100+HP just from the header and K&N and twice as much with a good cat and exhaust, YOTATECH sticker adds 10 immediately on ordering it.....OK, that's enuf siliness....but seriously, since my build is soooooooo sloooooooow I have alot of time to read up........if I had the $$$$ I would replace my exhaust ...getting a header and everything else.

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

Don't just leave the timing set alone.

If it was replaced 80K ago, its time to replace it again. Although a 22R/E is capable of going a long time without needing a new timing set, its always best to be 100% sure its not going to fail in a few months. The timing guides are made of plastic, and are known to break. Since you already have the engine torn down this far, its best to put a new timing set on it now. That way, you will have a new crank seal as well, thus eliminating the possibility of yet another potential problem down the road.

92 TOY

X 1 zillion on that ^^^^^^^^

suprasb

You make a good point my friend. I was thinking about just rebuilding the 22re that's in the truck currently, unless I was able to find one of those JAP importe 40k engines for cheap.

On the other hand though, I am kind of a firm believer in " If it aint' broke, don't fix it", BUT preventative maintenance is also key in a healthy, long lasting vehicle. the timing chain, oil pump, timing cover, guides ect seems like alot of extra work right now, and I am just excited to get it back on the road. I would definitely replace it all if it didn't look so fresh. It was done 80k ago, along with a new headgasket. The chain looks like its in excellent shape, clean, and the guides have little to no wear in them at all. The oil pump was also changed at that time.

I guess it comes down to how much I want to spend right now, and how much more time I want to spend doing preventative maintenance. Who knows, I may end up replacing the timing components, but maybe not. It does mean more time down, and more $$$. With winter HERE, I would like to have this thing on the road ASAP ( my honda's heater core is plugged up so I have no heat, and its getting freakin' cold here in the mornings hahahah).

I guess time will tell, I will have more updates this evening, I'm pretty sure I'll have some time to rip into it some more after work. * I am shooting to have the head off by tonight but we'll see.


Thanks for all your input so far!

92 TOY

I know this was said before, but don't forget the hidden bolt...dead center under where the cam sticks out and the distributor gear meets it.

head weighs about 20 or 30lbs....not bad at all, but an awkward angle. Make sure you have something to catch the pooled oil.

I will be waiting.

ayoung101

my contribution. i just did this about a month ago. if you're a novice, take your time! you'll get there!

my "lessons learned" thread will probably be of more use than my actual head gasket thread since most of it deals with a stupid error i made at the end, lol. feel free to ask for clarification on any of my lessons learned, they are a big vague!

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...01/index3.html
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...et-r-r-193578/

blackyota4x4

hey man i noticed you took your distributor cap and rotor off. You might run in to some issues getting her at top dead center before you take the head off. I like to use the rotor to help tell me when its at TDC by cranking the crank pulley and lining up the timing mark to 0 and watching the rotor come around to the #1 at about 10 o clock. Thats how i know when the thing is nuts on. The little dowel pin on the cam sprocket will also line up with the triangle on the cam shaft/rocker arm assembly thing. Ive replaced the headgasket on my yota a couple of times now and hoave it down to an art. I think i could do mine in a few hours I've left everything labeled to help expedite the process.

No you do not need to remove the timing cover. Just get yourself a looong screw driver and flex the timing chain tensioner to give you enough slack to slip the cam sprocket back on the cam with the chain on it. You'll be alright man good luck.

blackyota4x4

don't forget the torque bar for the head bolts 58 pounds

854x4

What company makes the cam gear that is solid like the one shown in the pics? Engnbldr's cam gear has holes in it as well as all the others I have seen? I have a solid one in my 85 but I don't know what timing kit was used.

davo247d

i just strait up torqued them to 60 going in intiverals of 20 ft pounds

suprasb

Well no progress last night other than ordering my head gasket kit from engnbldr. Got off waaay to late and it was freezing balls in the garage. (Like 40 degrees! Waay too cold for us Californians!) Hahahah. Hopefully I'll get to wrench on it a little tonight.

Oh, and since I made the mistake of remove the distributor, any tips on geting it lined back up TDC?

Karlton

You won't find a low-mileage Japanese import of a 22re as they were a U.S. market engine.

Used Japanese engine importers often offer 22re for sale, but they are rebuilds that they typically source locally and resell. Buying a rebuilt engine from a middleman is like a box of chocolates ... you never know what you're going to get.

I'm sure everyone understands your situation and why you would skip replacing your timing components... all it takes is time and money ... but that's something that is often in short supply. Maybe you'll get lucky and get many more miles out of the engine with just a head gasket replacement.

If you still need to pull the engine for replacement next summer, I would encourage you to buy an engine stand and rebuild the one you've got with the help of Yotatech. It's a rewarding and educational experience.

Good luck!