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22RE blown head gasket cure?

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Old 02-05-2009, 04:41 AM
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I've been seaching this site for "liquid head gasket repair" and ended up here and see it is a fairly recent discussion. My 92 22re has a head gasket issue and my first inclination is to have it torn down and replaced. My 2nd inclination is that my first inclination costs about $1000 or more and I have seen and done as much searching as possible about Thermagasket as I can and also I know about the Bar's Leaks product that IS compatable with coolant so no flushing is required. Being of little to no significant mechanic abilties as well as strapped for cash, I am inclined to used the "quick fix" to see if it works. I have seen postings (not just on yotatech) that flat-out say to not use the "genie in a bottle" but I have not seen that substantiated as to why not. What I have seen is opinion, but in reality, I want my truck running NOW, and am willing to spend $30 (Bar's) or $110 (themagasket) to attempt to get it running now. I just want some OBJECTIVE information as to HAS ANYONE SUCCESSFULLY USED THESE? or I figure it this way, spend the money (my estimate $1000 to $1500) and fix it right........don't know when that would be, or spend $30 to $110 and chance it.

As of 10am yesterday my plans for making enough money to cover the repair were shot down when a deal for selling one of my vehicles fell through and now I'm left wanting to find enough money again ....and waiting and waiting.

Basically I want to hear "I used the stuff and it worked....etc" or "I used the stuff and it didn't work.....etc and here's why it didn't work etc.."

Money is the core issue and lack thereof, so if I find I can temporarily or ,hopefully, permanantly, fix the problem by using this stuff, I figure I can not spend the money on a true rip-down repair.

I know the "do it right the first time" applies here, and I'm a big believer in that, but the reality is that by the time I get around to doing that it will be quite a long time.

Don't have pity for me, but this is a tough bind I'm in. My truck is sitting and I'm driving around in a car that I hate and should have never spent the money on when my truck broke down and now I'm stuck with 2 issues.

So, unless I can come up with the cash to do the repair the right way and / or I hear enough feedback that says that they have used Bar's or Thermagasket and they do or don't work, I will just keep my truck parked.
Old 02-05-2009, 04:57 AM
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I heard that Buicks require head gasket sealant in the block when replacing the headgasket. Anyone know if this is true?

I'm curious about this because my bro owned a buick and had a headgasket go bad. I helped my dad replace it (and the radiator) and a week later the gasket went bad again.
Old 02-05-2009, 05:14 AM
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My truck has 189,000 miles on it, my diagnosis was head gasket based upon that was the diagnosis several years ago with same symptoms (overheated, water in the oil) and at that point had the head gasket replaced to the tune of about $1500.00. At that time money wasn't such an issue, as well as sinking that much into an aged vehicle was not such and issue.

This is my baby, I've had it since day one. So I want to get it back on the road but need to do so with as little pain as possible. I started it yesterday, ran smooth like nothing was wrong, only let it run for about 4 minutes, but it runs quietly and strong like it's healthy as can be. I know that there is a problem, but because of the claims of the Bar's and Thermagasket products I am very tempted to use them.

I understand this part too..........I must address the reason for the head gasket failure. A thermostat I feel is a repair well within my capabilities, unless someone says it's too involved. A radiator, although it looks like a tight repair based on not much room to move around in the engine area, looks like another project I could do. My thoughts were to use Bar's, since it IS compatable with coolant, and hope it works. Change the oil, remove the radiator and thermostat and flush the system and put a new thermostat and new radiator on and hope for the best. I figure by changing the radiator and thermostat I will eliminate 2 potential reasons for the head gasket failure.

What about the water pump......how would I know that is bad?

Again, my truck runs smoothly and quietly and no leaks anywhere (not too bad for 189,000 miles).

I parked it the day this happened, July 3rd 2008 to be exact, and have had it running a few times (mybe 4 or 5) since then (just a few minutes each) for fear that leaving it sit would either compound the problem or create new ones.

Some advice please......advice that I could realistically do too. Obviously I would love to hand a blank check to someone and tell them to "fix it" and get it back on the road, but that isn't going to happen. I will rely on general concensus on this one.


Not sure where to begin........., but I did just put a new battery in it yesterday because the old one(about 10 years old) was dead and I was afraid of even jump starting it or taking it somewhere to see if it would take a charge because I've heard of frozen batteries exploding (just 3 days ago at work had a patient because of that......I'm an ER nurse for 15 years) and I considered that an OMEN or a sign from the Big Guy to just buy a new battery. So I did.

Here's the sequence I think I should follow.....
1) Buy Bar's ($30)
2) add it as per instructions and re-fill coolant as instructed.
3) change the oil
4) search for a thermostat and radiator and complete ther replacement of both
5) cross my fingers
6) post my results so everybody can learn as to why or why not to do this
Old 02-06-2009, 08:54 AM
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You are really going to try the cure in a can on your baby? If you can use hand tools you can change a head gasket on a 22RE imo.

Rob
Old 02-06-2009, 09:01 AM
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I have fixed several blown head gaskets with the permanent block selant stuff. One was so bad the vehicle would hardly run! It was making so much smoke after 5 minuets you couldnt even see the car. It was a Chevy blazer its been about a year and i still see it going around town. I also did it on a yota v6 that I sold and it is still going strong 20k miles later! The stuff I get is in a chrome can with some copper coloring on it and can be bought at napa or kragen for under $10.
Old 02-07-2009, 02:38 AM
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PITSTER
Thanks, that the kind of feedback I'm looking for.
I'm going to order the THERMAGASKET from their site and in the coming weeks I will use it. I figure at least with it's money-back guarantee, I could get my money back if it doesn't work.
Even flushing the cooling system myself isn't even an option right now where I live, it hasn't been above freezing in weeks, so I'm going to ask the local mechanic if he'd like to be part of my experiment. Otherwise I'll wait until it gets warmer (and my garden hose thaws out) and flush it myself and change the radiator and thermostat myself...I feel comfortable enough doing those 2 things, but again have to wait until it's a little warmer.
Like I said, the engine looks fine, no outward signs of a problem, the engine compartment is nice and clean. So I know I don't have any external leaks.
My theory that either it was a faulty thermostat or blocked radiatorthat caused the overheating in the first place lead me to think that I should replace both prior to using the THERMAGASKET (as recommended by them)......fix the reason for the overheating 1st and the result of the overheating 2nd.
I highly doubt that I could ever successfully re-assemble my engine and get it running again, despite having both the Chilton's (or Hayne's) and the official Toyota Service manual (about 8inches thick) and a bunch of tools, I don't have the experience or knowledge base to comfortably start a rip-down of my engine.
Like I said, I'm gonna use this stuff, I will post what happens.
Old 02-07-2009, 09:03 AM
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I think the key is flushing the cooling system really well. I take the bottom raidiator hose off and run a garden house threw the raidiator. Then put it back on fill it up with water let it run for 5 minuets drain it and I do this 3 times. Then run the block selant threw it, then take the raidiator house off and do not rinse it! Let it sit over night then re flush the cooling system. I would fill it up with water and let it run to make sure the head gasket is not leaking. If it is not then I would fill it with coolant but if it is just run another can through. The stuff I have used is made by K&W
Old 02-07-2009, 09:26 AM
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check out the Themagasket website... www.rxauto.com

Reading everything on this site has inclined me to use their product. Not to mention I've already been in contact with the company (Kirk) via e-mail letting him know my concerns too.

They also include the negative feedback about their product, not just the good ones. I not a gullible person, just one with not too much money and am willing to invest my time and effort into this product that has a money back guarantee.
Old 02-07-2009, 12:22 PM
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That sealant is really has a 50/50 chance at working. I too have used the stuff from Napa & it did work a couple of times, other times it didn't. It's OK if you catch the leak when it's small. It's also good if you don't have the funds for the HG replacement or are planning on selling it. I'm sure that shady dealerships do it a lot. Let us know if it works.

I would not use the stuff with the pellets in it, that stuff looks like it would clog everything up.
Old 02-09-2009, 07:46 AM
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1987 4runner head gasket--write up?

anyone know where i can find a write up for a head gasket replacement- 1987 4runner, efi, 4 cyl.
Old 02-10-2009, 04:31 PM
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I would consider a couple of things...

I had a head gasket go bad on my '87 4runner, but it wasn't really the head gasket's fault, it was a casting failure that resulted in no metal left to press against the gasket.

I had another failed gasket on an old chevy luv. it demonstrated exactly the same symptoms... very small amount of extra steam/coolant smell in the exhaust, but no water in the oil or vice/versa. the biggest symptom (and the only reason I noticed it either time) was that cylinder pressure was bleeding into the coolant system, causing the coolant to bubble out slowly over time, and eventually causing overheating. as long as I refilled the coolant every half hour I was fine, but if I went a little too far, it would overheat quick.

in both of those cases, 'quick fix' head gasket goop would have done nothing. did nothing... no way some goop is going to hold back 100+ pounds of pressure.

but... if your problem is from something else, it might work. it will, without a doubt, end up at least slightly clogging your radiator cores, coolant passages, and heater core.

I replaced my head, and gasket, for about $350 in a weekend, with a remanufactured head. it's a bit of a pain, but really not too bad... and a lot less pain than $1500 or more for shop labor. or replacing your whole motor because it overheated down the road when the gunk clogged your thermostat.
Old 02-10-2009, 05:00 PM
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I have used the Barrs and it DOES Work. The right thing to do replace the headgasket , on a 22re it is very simple , really. If you do use the headgasket in a bottle take the thermostat out , remove the heater core hoses and connect them together to bypass the heater core . Follow the rest of the directions on the bottle and you should be fine.

Last edited by RMA; 02-10-2009 at 09:14 PM.
Old 02-10-2009, 09:10 PM
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Replacing the head gasket is not to hard. Just give yourself an entire weekend to do it and make sure you have all the parts to do the job before hand. I replaced my HG at 250k and also the timing chain (first time). I replaced the valve seals as well and cleaned everything up and put it back together (no valve job..nothing done to the old head). Now the truck is at 297k without any issues. It passes smog easily and gets 22mpg. I think if you prolong the replacement, you might create new problems that you wouldn't have if you just went ahead and changed the HG.
Old 02-10-2009, 09:17 PM
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No such thing as "mechanic in a can." Tried it on my '83. No good... Works for some, but it's rare, in my experience. With a 22RE.... replace/surface that sucker. Peace of mind, if nothing else.
Old 02-10-2009, 09:21 PM
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The 2 part thermagasket is actually really good stuff,i worked for a quick fix used car dealer one time and he put it in everything with a blown gasket i never seen it fail once but ive never seen it done on a yota either tho
Old 02-10-2009, 09:24 PM
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I think if you're stuck in the middle of no where, then that quick fix is a great thing. If you have the time to do it right, then why not?
Old 02-10-2009, 09:27 PM
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I would personally do an R&R of the failed part but back about 15years ago I wuold dump any thing in the thing that said it would fix it and some stuff worked! For a period of time then the same problem came back to haunt me. Order the correct parts online, read the manual prior to the repair, take your time and get er done. Check your compression first to verify the blown gasket, like every keeps saying check your timing chain cover and you might as well replace the timing chain crap anyways since your digging into it, its cheap and an easy peace of mind. just my 2c
Old 02-10-2009, 09:38 PM
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Yea i agree with plumbrbob you can get a timing set with oil pump and water pump name brand stuff 4 like 75.00 on ebay
Old 03-25-2009, 04:23 PM
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started on the truck over the last few days, new radiator and hoses and thermostat all ready to go. thermagasket waiting to be used. took the radiator out about an hour ago, took the thermostat out too. came to a halt when i snapped a bolt insode the waterneck housing when loosening it up. will work on that tomorrow as well as put in the new radiator. likely will do thethermagasket in the next 2 days and if not will do it sometime next week and keep all posted on how it goes........
Old 03-25-2009, 05:24 PM
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Man, you're going to use some bottled miracle liquid in a new radiator? you would still be much better off fixing the HG the right way.

I got my truck with a BHG. The PO put some Blue Devil in the radiator as a lazy fix. Not only did it fail to fix the HG, it completely clogged the heater core, partially blocked the radiator, damaged the hoses, and left a thick layer of crap on the rest of the cooling system as I discovered when I had the engine out.


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